Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 55

Larger expanses of netting may also be entirely filled with wheels, fig.

679. To make a really satisfactory grounding of this kind, you should be careful always to carry your thread over the bars of the netting and under the threads that are stretched diagonally across.

GROUND WORKED IN CROSS AND DARNING St.i.tCH (fig. 680).--You begin, as before, by making the close darning st.i.tches, and then proceed to the cross st.i.tches. To give them the right shape, finish all the rows of st.i.tches one way first; in the subsequent rows, that cross the first ones, you introduce the thread between the st.i.tches that were first crossed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 679. GROUND WITH LARGE WHEELS.]

GROUND OF GEOMETRICAL FIGURES (fig. 681).--This pattern, quite different from all the others, consists of simple geometrical lines.

Fasten the thread to a knot of the netting, then carry it, always diagonally, under 3 other knots and repeat this 3 times, after which, carry it once round the bar of the netting, to fasten it, and back again to the knot which it already encircles, and from thence begin a new square. Owing to your having always to bring the thread back to the knot whence the next square is to begin, you will have 4 threads on two of the sides and 6 on the two others.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 680. GROUND WORKED IN CROSS AND DARNING St.i.tCH.]

In the second and subsequent rows, the needle has to pa.s.s twice under the angles that were first formed, in order that, over the whole surface, all the corners may be equally covered and connected.

NETTED INSERTION WORKED IN PLAIN DARNING St.i.tCH (fig. 682).--The taste for ornamenting not only curtains but bed and table linen also, with lace and insertion of all kinds, to break the monotony of the large white surfaces, is becoming more and more general and the insertion here described will be welcome to such of our readers as have neither time nor patience for work of a more elaborate nature.

The way to make straight netting has already been fully described in figs. 625, 626, 627, 628, 629 and 630, and darning st.i.tch in fig. 637.

To those who wish to be saved the trouble of making the netting themselves, we can strongly recommend various fabrics, intended to take its place, more especially Filet Canevas, which is an exact imitation of the finest hand-made netting. The centre part of the pattern in fig.

682, is worked in rows of horizontal darning st.i.tches, the narrow border in vertical ones.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 681. GROUND OF GEOMETRICAL FIGURES.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 682. NETTED INSERTION WORKED IN PLAIN DARNING St.i.tCH. MATERIALS--For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25.--For the darning st.i.tch: Coton a broder D.M.C No. 25, or Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 12 to 50, white or ecru.[A]]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 683. EMBROIDERED GROUND OF NETTING. MATERIALS--For the netting: Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50. For the darning st.i.tch: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15, or Fil a pointer D.M.C No. 30.--For the loop st.i.tch: Fil a dentelle D.M.C or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C according to the size of the netting thread.]

GROUND OF NETTING EMBROIDERED (fig. 683).--We have already had occasion, in the foregoing explanations, to point out the advantage of embroidering with two sizes of thread, but it is only in a piece of work of a certain size that it is possible really to judge of the excellent effect produced by the use of two threads of different sizes.

The princ.i.p.al lines of the pattern, which are in darning st.i.tch, are worked in a very coa.r.s.e thread with a strong twist, Fil a pointer D.M.C, whilst the loop st.i.tches are in Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C.

Our model was worked in ecru thread but there is nothing to prevent several colours being introduced, for instance ecru, black or Gris-Ficelle 462 for the netted foundation; Rouge-Cardinal 346, for the darning st.i.tches, and Chine d'or D.M.C green and gold or blue and gold, for the loop st.i.tches and the threads that are carried across inside.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 684. EMBROIDERED SQUARE OF NETTING. MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 15 to 40, white or ecru.[A]]

EMBROIDERED SQUARE OF NETTING WITH TWO KINDS OF LACE SUITABLE FOR THE BORDER (figs. 684, 685, 686).--Large pieces of embroidered netting are generally made up of squares and stripes, joined together with ribbon and fine linen insertions. It is easier and less c.u.mbrous to make the netting in separate pieces. Squares of different patterns can also be combined with crochet and pillow lace, in this case of course the squares have to be arranged with some system.

Fig. 685 represents a lace edging intended for the square fig. 684, which shows how even in such a simple pattern as this, several colours may be successfully introduced.

Fig. 686 is a handsomer and more elaborate pattern for the same kind of purpose. The loop st.i.tches and the linen st.i.tches should be worked in a very light shade; instead of the colour indicated at the foot of the engraving, Rouge-Geranium 353, Violet-Mauve 377 or Jaune-Rouille 365 may be used; for the netting and the loop st.i.tches you may combine, with the first shade, two shades of Brun-Caroubier 303 and 357, with the second, two shades of Jaune-vieil Or 678 and 680 and with the third, two shades of Rouge-Cardinal 346 and 348.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 685. LACE EDGING FOR THE SQUARE, FIG. 684.

MATERIALS: The same as for fig. 684, and Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie No. 30. COLOURS--For the netting and the loop st.i.tch: White or ecru.--For the darning st.i.tch: Brun-Caroubier 303 and Rouge-Grenat 335.[A]]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 686. LACE EDGING. MATERIALS: The same as for 684.

COLOURS--For the netting: ecru.--For the ground in loop and linen st.i.tch: Bleu pale 668.--For the bars in darning st.i.tch: Gris-Tilleul 391 and 393.[A]]

PATTERN FOR GROUND (fig. 687).--The peculiar charm of this most unpretending pattern is chiefly due to the variety of material and colour introduced into it. The netted ground is made of dark brown Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 25, worked over, in the first instance, with loop st.i.tches in a pale grey, which are afterwards connected by darning st.i.tches in Coton a repriser Gris-Tilleul 392.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 687. PATTERN FOR GROUND. MATERIALS--For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30. For the embroidery: Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 25. COLOURS: Brun-Havane 455, Gris-Noisette 423, Jaune-vieil-Or 680, Gris-Tilleul 391 and Rouge-Geranium 352.[A]]

The same material in Rouge-Geranium, is used for the little centre squares and the pink crosses, and isolated darned squares are framed with loose cord st.i.tches in Coton a repriser colour Jaune-vieil-Or 680.

We can also recommend, for the same pattern, the following combination of colours, all to be found on the D.M.C colour card; namely, Bleu pale 668 for the netting; Chine d'or, gold with dark blue for the loop st.i.tches; Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12 (Turkish gold cord) for the darning st.i.tches, between the loop st.i.tches; Coton a broder or Cordonnet 6 fils in Rouge-Cornouille 450, for the detached darned squares and Coton a repriser, in Jaune-d'Or 667 for the setting of all the different parts of the pattern.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 688. EMBROIDERY ON NETTING WITH DIFFERENT-SIZED LOOPS. MATERIALS--For the netting: Fil a dentelle D.M.C No. 40. For the embroidery: Coton a broder D.M.C No. 16, white or ecru.[A]]

EMBROIDERY ON NETTING WITH DIFFERENT-SIZED LOOPS (fig. 688).--The netting, described and represented in fig. 620, with plain, oblong and double loops, here forms the ground for the embroidery.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 689. SQUARE IN CUT NETTING.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 690. LACE EDGING IN CUT NETTING. MATERIALS: Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50, in three shades of one colour.]

In order to make the isolated loop st.i.tches, the thread which forms the cross in the middle must be carried to the middle of the bar, the loops that form the st.i.tches must be finished and the thread carried back to the knot whence it started. It must then be taken three times backwards and forwards over the foundation thread and the two bars of the netting, when the st.i.tches, into and over 3 squares of the netting, should be made. The last row in the engraving shows the pattern in the successive stages of its development.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 691. NETTING INSERTION MATERIALS--For the netting: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 40 white or ecru.--For the embroidery: Ganse turque D.M.C Nos. 6 and 12.]

SQUARE AND EDGING IN CUT NETTING (figs. 689 and 690).--Few patterns admit of such a successful application of all the st.i.tches. .h.i.therto described, as the square and edging presented to our readers in the two subjoined figures. On a netted ground of rather fine thread, we have in the first place, linen st.i.tch, in the border, worked in rather a coa.r.s.er thread than the ground; then raised wheels, b.u.t.tonholed bars with picots in the centre, plain wheels very close together, and long ribbed bars worked in darning st.i.tch.

The edging, to match the square, is worked in the original in pale shades, in contrast to the square which is executed entirely in ecru thread. The squares in the netted footing of the lace are loosely overcast with pale Violet-Mauve 316, the same colour is also used for the wheels in the outside edge, each of which fills a square, and for the loop st.i.tches round them; whilst the middle one of the three upper ribbed wheels and the star are worked in dark Violet-Mauve 315. The crosses in linen st.i.tch, the three lower ribbed wheels and the long ribbed bars in darning st.i.tch, are in Gris-Tilleul 392.

NETTED INSERTION (fig. 691).--This is a copy of a beautiful piece of embroidered netting, to all appearance, several centuries old, and in a state that rendered, even the most delicate handling almost impossible.

After several experiments, the best result has been arrived at, and the Turkish cord in which the original is made, has now been manufactured for netting purposes, as well as for other kinds of decorative work, already alluded to, and referred to again later on.

The first foundation, that is, the actual netting, for a thing of this kind, should be made in white or ecru thread, with very small meshes; the pattern itself is embroidered on the netting with Ganse turque D.M.C No. 12; this material, ecru and gold mixed, gives the work a glittering and peculiarly elegant appearance, un.o.btainable in any other.

The execution is extremely easy, it being worked entirely in darning st.i.tch; but the drawing should be copied with great accuracy and the wide braid very carefully sewn on with close st.i.tches round the squares, which are filled in with darning st.i.tches made in Ganse turque No. 12.

Any netting pattern can be copied in this braid, and the simplest piece of work of the kind is worth mounting on a rich foundation of silk, brocade, velvet or plush. To give a single example, the insertion here described and ill.u.s.trated, was mounted on slate-blue plush and has been universally admired.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

[Ill.u.s.tration: INSERTION.--IRISH LACE WITH RAISED ORNAMENTS.]

IRISH LACE.

Irish lace, also known under the name of Renaissance lace, from its having been first made in the sixteenth century, is an imitation of the earliest pillow laces; it ought, properly speaking, to be called French lace, having been invented in France and thence introduced into England and Ireland.