Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 27

ANY KIND OF VEGETABLE [2] MAY BE PREPARED IN THE ABOVE MANNER, IF YOU WISH.

[1] Wanting in Tac. and Tor. G.-V. _patellam ex holisatro_.

[2] It is worth noting that Tor. and Tac. omit this recipe entirely and that Tor. concludes the preceding formula with the last sentence of the above formula, except for the difference in one word. Tor. _et de quacunque libra_ [List. _et al._ _herba_] _si volueris facies ut demonstratum est supra_. This might mean that it is optional (in the preceding formula) to shape the fish into one pound loaves instead of the small fish b.a.l.l.s, which is often done in the case of forcemeats, as in veal, beef, ham loaves, or fish pie.

We are inclined to accept the reading of Torinus, for the above way of preparing "any kind of vegetables or herbs" is somewhat farfetched. Furthermore, the vegetable dish would more properly belong in Book III.

Just another example of where readings by various editors are different because of the interpretations of one word. In this case one group reads _libra_ whereas the other reads _herba_.

[147] A DISH OF SARDINES _PATELLA DE APUA_ [1]

SARDINE LOAF (OR OMELETTE) IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] CLEAN THE SARDINES [of skin and bones]; BREAK [and beat] EGGS AND MIX WITH [half of the] FISH [3]; ADD TO THIS SOME STOCK, WINE AND OIL, AND FINISH [the composition] BY HEATING IT. WHEN DONE TO A POINT, ADD [the remaining part of the] SARDINES TO IT, LET IT STAND A WHILE [over a slow fire to congeal] CAREFULLY TURN OVER [dish it up] MASK WITH A WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] G.-V. _Patina de apua fricta_--same as _aphya_, fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies, sardines, sprats.

In experimenting with this formula we would advise to use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no knowledge of the ancient _apua fricta_ other than our making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as quickly as possible after the fish has left the water, for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten, and similar smoked and processed fish, contain sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an omelette.

[2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] Tor. _c.u.m aqua_; List., G.-V. _c.u.m apua_. Perhaps a typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for that purpose.

[4] Tor. _et in calore nogarum perfundes_; List., G.-V. _ut coloret_--to keep the omelette in the pan long enough to give it "color." We prefer the Torinus version because an omelette should have no or very little color from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible) and because hot _nogarum_ (wine-fish sauce, not in List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional savour and a finis.h.i.+ng touch.

[148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON _PATINA EX LARIDIS _[1]_ ET CEREBELLIS_

THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] STRAIN [or chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH PARBOILED BRAINS [calf's or pig's] THE SKIN AND NERVES OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK CHICKEN GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS AFORESAID MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX.

[1] G.-V. _lagitis_; Tor. _laridis_ and _largitis_; Vat.

Ms. _lagatis_; List. _pro lagitis ... legendum Lacertis_. The _lacertus_, according to List., is a much esteemed salt fish; not identified. List. _et al._ seem to be mistaken in their reading of _lacertis_ for _laridis_. This work stands for salt pork, from _laridum_ and _lardum_ (French, _lard_; the English _lard_ is applied to the rendered fat of pork in general). Cf. notes to ? No. 41.

[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] _oua dura_; Sch. _o. dua_--two eggs.

[4] This formula would be intelligible and even gastronomically correct were it not for this word "fish." However, we cannot accept Lister's reading _lacertis_. We prefer the reading, _laridis_, bacon. The French have another term for this--_pet.i.ts sales_. Both this and the Torinus term are in the plural. They are simply small strips of bacon to which Torinus again refers in the above formula, _salsum, coctum in media pones_--put the bacon, when done, in the center (of the dish). Regarding _salsum_ also see note to ? No. 41.

The above dish resembles _ragot fin en coquille_, a popular Continental dish, although its princ.i.p.al ingredients are sweetbreads instead of brains.

[149] BROILED MULLET _PATINA EX PISCIBUS MULLIS_ [1]

A DISH OF MULLET CONSISTS OF [2] SCALED SALT MULLET PLACED IN A CLEAN PAN WITH ENOUGH OIL [3] AS IS NECESSARY FOR COOKING; WHEN DONE ADD [a dash of honey-] WINE OR RAISIN WINE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] List., G.-V. _mullorum loco salsi_--salt mullet.

[2] Tor. wanting in other texts.

[3] List. _liquamen_--broth, brine, which would be worse than carrying owls to Athens. As a matter of fact, the mullet if it be what List. says, _loco salsi_--salted on the spot, i.e. as caught, near the sea sh.o.r.e, requires soaking to extract the salt.

[150] A DISH OF ANY KIND OF SALT FISH _PATINA EX PISCIBUS QUIBUSLIBET_ [1]

ANOTHER FISH DISH IS THUS MADE [2] FRY ANY KIND OF CURED [3] FISH, CAREFULLY TREATED [soaked and cleaned] PLACE IN A PAN, COVER WITH SUFFICIENT OIL, LAY [strips of] COOKED SALT [4] [pork or bacon--_pet.i.ts sales_] OVER THE CENTER, KEEP IT HOT, WHEN REAL HOT, ADD A DASH OF HONEY WINE TO THE GRAVY AND STIR IT UP [5].

[1] Ex Tor.; G.-V. _P. piscium loco salsi_.

[2] Tor.; sentence wanting in other texts.

[3] Tor. _duratos_--_hard_--no sense here, probably a misprint of the d. List. _curatos_--carefully treated, "cured," processed.

[4] _Salsum coctum_, cf. notes to ? No. 148; Goll., Dann.--sprinkle [the fish] with salt.... Like Lister's error in the preceding formula it would be a great blunder to add salt to a cured fish already saturated with salt to the utmost. Cf. also note 2 to ? Nos.

41, 148.

[5] Virtually a repet.i.tion of ? No. 149, except for the addition of the pork.

[151] ANOTHER FISH DISH, WITH ONIONS _ALIA PISCIUM PATINA_

ANOTHER FISH DISH MAKE AS FOLLOWS [1] CLEAN ANY KIND OF FISH AND PLACE IT PROPERLY IN A SAUCEPAN WITH SHREDDED DRY ASCALONIAN ONIONS [shallots] OR WITH ANY OTHER KIND OF ONIONS, THE FISH ON TOP. ADD STOCK AND OIL AND COOK. WHEN DONE, PUT BROILED BACON IN THE CENTER, GIVE IT A DASH OF VINEGAR, SPRINKLE WITH [finely chopped] SAVORY AND GARNISH WITH [the] ONIONS.

[1] Tor., sentence wanting in other texts.

[152] A LUCRETIAN DISH _PATINA LUCRETIANA_ [1]

CLEAN YOUNG ONIONS, REJECTING THE GREEN TOPS, AND PLACE [2] THEM IN A SAUCEPAN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, SOME OIL AND WATER, AND, TO BE COOKED [with the onions] PLACE SALT PORK [3] IN THE MIDST [of the scallions].

WHEN NEARLY DONE, ADD A SPOON OF HONEY [4] A LITTLE VINEGAR AND REDUCED MUST, TASTE IT, IF INSIPID ADD MORE BRINE [broth] IF TOO SALTY, ADD MORE HONEY, AND SPRINKLE WITH SAVORY [5].

[1] Dann. Named for Lucretius Epicuraeus, a contemporary of Cicero. List. _ab auth.o.r.e cui in usu fuit sic appellata_.

[2] G.-V. _concides_. Not necessary.

[3] _salsum crudum_--salt pork, i.e. not smoked or cured bacon. Dann. raw salt; Goll. salt. Impossible, of course! Cf. notes to ? Nos. 41, 147, 149.

[4] To glaze the pork, no doubt; reminding us of our own use of sugar to glaze ham or bacon, and of the mola.s.ses added to pork (and beans).

[5] G.-V. _coronam bubulam_. In experimenting with this formula omit salt completely. Instead of honey we have also added maple syrup once. To make this a perfect luncheon dish a starch is wanting; we have therefore added sliced raw potatoes and cooked with the rest, to make it a balanced meal, by way of improving upon Lucretius. Since the ancients had no potatoes we have, on a different occasion, created another version by added sliced dasheens (_colocasia_, cf. ? Nos. 74, 216, 244, 322). It is surprising that the ancients who used the _colocasium_ extensively did not combine it with the above dish.

[153] STEWED LACERTUS FISH _PATINA DE LACERTIS_ [1]

CLEAN AND WASH [soak] THE FISH [2] [cook and flake it] BREAK AND BEAT EGGS, MIX THEM WITH THE FISH, ADD BROTH, WINE AND OIL. PLACE THIS ON THE FIRE, WHEN COOKED [scrambled] ADD SIMPLE FISH WINE SAUCE [3] TO IT, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [4].

[1] Ex List. wanting in Tor. G.-V. _P. de lagitis_; cf.

note to ? No. 148.

[2] Remembering that List. reads _lagitis_ for _lacertis_, this formula appears to be an antique "Scrambled Eggs and Bacon." Cf. notes to ? Nos. 42, 148-150.