Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 69

VIII

[476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS: _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSc.u.mQUE GENERIS_

CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, RUE, FIGDATES, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS PREPARE AND MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL Ca.s.sEROLE TO HEAT. WHEN THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

IX

[477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS: _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, AND MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK THIS ON A SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE.

[1] Sch. _ligistic.u.m_.

[2] Wanting in Sch.

X

[478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1]

_PISCES a.s.sOS_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; ALL THIS MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it].

[1] The fish was probably broiled on the _craticula_ (see our ill.u.s.tration).

The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or broiled fish.

XI

[479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE _PISCES NOTEGANON_ [1]

FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE.

[1] Ihm and G.-V. _noteganon_; _inotogono_ and in the Summary of Dishes _inotogonon_; Sch. _eleogaro_.

Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared with wine, although wine is absent in the present formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the same name.

Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation "oil broth."

XII

[480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS: _SARDAS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_

CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS, VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID.

[1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A "sardine," from the island of Sardinia; _Sardus_, the inhabitant of Sardinia.

[2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern mayonnaise.

XIII

[481] FISH STEWED IN WINE _PISCES NOTEGANON_ [1]

RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into handy size]

ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER, AND COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE WITH THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU HAVE COOKED [with the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO THE SAUCE PAN. [When the fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish, ca.s.serole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY [Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] Cf. note to XI. This _noteganon_ resembles the _Bouillabaisse_, the famous Ma.r.s.eilles fish chowder. In addition to the above manner it is flavored with saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of garlic and small sippets of toasted bread.

XIV

[482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS: _MULLOS ANETHATOS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_

PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh]

CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN.

SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] From _anethus_--dill--which is omitted in formula.

Sch. _anecatos_, i.e. _submersos_, because the original fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture is not justified.

XV

[483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE _ALITER MULLOS_

Sc.r.a.pE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER TO THE MESS, SET ON THE FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE FISH'S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

[1] It appears that the _patina_ mentioned in this and in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer _c.u.mana_, an earthenware ca.s.serole; either of which may be used for service at the table.

It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and economical.