Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome Part 71

[492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG _PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM_ [1]

GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND PLACE IT IN A LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS MUCH HONEY [2] AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR DRY CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 s.e.xTARIUS OF OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all this] PUT IN A STEW PAN [braisiere] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO PERFECTION AND SERVE IT.

[1] _exodionum_, and in the Summary of Dishes, _exozome_, i.e. _oxyzomum_. It is curious to note the various spellings and meanings of _oxyzomum_. This is supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet preparation. We take it, the "garnish" contains the necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice, wine, etc. _Oxyzomum_ is properly rendered "pickle."

[2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version.

[3] _saepius_; Dann. confusing _saepe_ with _caepa_, renders this "onions sauce." The same occurs to him in XXVII.

XXV

[493] PIG WITH LASER _PORCELLUM LASARATUM_

IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, A LITTLE c.u.mIN, LIVE LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, AND POUR OVER [the roast pig].

XXVI

[494] PIG IN SAUCE _PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM_

IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, RUE, A LAUREL BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE, OR A LITTLE HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. WHEN THIS HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX.

XXVII

[495] PLAIN LAMB [1]

_AGNUM SIMPLICEM_

OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2]

AND SERVE.

[1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for "Irish Stew."

[2] Cf. note 3 to ? 492, XXIV; the presence of onion, however, would do no harm here.

XXVIII

[496] KID WITH LASER _HaeDUM LASARATUM_

THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation of] PEPPER, BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM BACK INTO THE CARCa.s.s WHICH SEW TIGHTLY AND THUS COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY.

[1] There being only liquids for this filling of the guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat, eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage, for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked before it can be used for the filling of the carca.s.s, as not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during the roasting to cook any raw dressing.

XXIX

[497] THRUSH "a LA SANTe"

_t.u.r.dOS HAPANTAMYNOS_ [1]

CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN c.u.mIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS.

[1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills.

[2] We use juniper berries today instead of c.u.min.

[3] Cf. note to ? 496, XXVIII.

[4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned, saute, and are either put back into the carca.s.ses, or are served separately on bread croutons. In this instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to Apicius.

[5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to believe that the thrush were not "cooked," i.e. "boiled"

but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil; this would make the ancient process remarkably similar to the present European way of preparing thrush or fieldfare, or similar game birds.

For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to ? No.

250.

x.x.x

[498] TURTLEDOVES _TURTURES_

OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM.

x.x.xI

[499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1]

_IUS IN PERDICES_

CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL LIKEWISE AND SERVE.

[1] This formula evidently is a fragment.