The Sunny Side of Ireland Part 10

VALENCIA ISLAND

May truly be termed the "Next parish to America," and should be visited for its n.o.ble cliffs, wild headlands, and wonderful jungle of fuschia trees. From Valencia Harbour a ferry, manned for upwards of a century by the O'Neills, brings pa.s.sengers and mails across to Knightstown, the princ.i.p.al village, and a busy port of industry during the fis.h.i.+ng season. Glenleam, the Knight of Kerry's residence--about one mile inland--is surrounded by beautiful gardens, where, besides arbutus and myrtle, many tropical exotics thrive. The fuschias form a thick glade, and the trunks of several of them almost defy the ordinary axe or saw.

There are on the island, besides holy wells, a number of soutterains and cairns, that

"Sit upon the ground To tell sad stories of the death of kings."

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Valencia.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photos, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Valencia Harbour. Fis.h.i.+ng Fleet. Entrance to Valencia Harbour.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cliffs at Valencia.]

Irish is freely spoken on the island, and if properly introduced, the visitor may be able to hear many old stories of Finn and his companions, the Gabawn Saior, and other heroes of the peasants' heart. Thick as mists at morn legends hover about the island, and beyond the great Slate quarries may be seen many caves of great interest. There is a tradition on the island that St. Vincent Ferrar landed there. The harbour offers a deep and sheltered anchorage, and was formerly much frequented by smugglers, whose cave is still shown. Paul Jones often put in here, and on one occasion pressed into his service a number of fishermen, whom he took from the neighbouring fis.h.i.+ng grounds. None of them returned except one, who had long been imprisoned in France, but he came home "with a stocking full of doubloons," and his children's children are still known as "The Paul Jones's."

At ~Brayhead~,

"Where the broad ocean leans against the land,"

there is a splendid view from nearly eight hundred feet above the sea.

The rocks around the coast, encircled with white foam, make a beautiful contrast to the grey and emerald and gold of the sandy coves and green hills.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Cliffs at Valencia.]

Dolus and Bolus Heads reach far into the ocean. The ~Skelligs~, "the most western of Christ's fortresses in the ancient world," raise their heads to the south, while northwards the Great Blasket, a mountainous island, and its eleven brothers, with Innisvic Killane, may be seen. On the 10th September, 1588, the Armada s.h.i.+p, _Our Lady of the Rosary_, of 1,000 tons, was wrecked in the Blasket Sound; among the many who perished was the Prince of Askule, natural son to King Philip of Spain.

Around the coast line there have been many wrecks, and not a few are the pathetic stories still told of them on the island.

The last wreck of importance gave another opportunity for the intrepid islanders to show what stern stuff they were made of. Under the captaincy of Mr. Alexander O'Driscoll, the volunteers put off to the wreck, and despite of a sea running high, and the buffeting of a great storm, saved the lives of the crew, and rendered full salvage. While on the island, a visit should be paid to the Anglo-American Cable Company's Station, care being taken beforehand to go through the formality of applying to the Managing Director (26, Old Bond-street, London, E.C.) for an order. Every facility is extended by the courteous local officials.

THE SKELLIGS--ST. MICHAEL'S ROCK.

From Valencia, or from across the channel at Portmagee, where there is a thriving fish-curing industry, the Skelligs can be reached in favourable weather. Standing high above the green billows that encircle them with collars of white foam, they repay every trouble taken to inspect them.

The ~Little Skellig~, a fantastic rock, with a great arch like a flying b.u.t.tress under which for centuries the seas have churned deep, is almost inaccessible. It is a great breeding ground for gannet, with which, during the breeding season, its sides are white as the waves below.

[Ill.u.s.tration: GE Skellig.]

So unused are these magnificent birds to being disturbed by intruders that even when within oar's length of them, they remain pa.s.sive and unscared. The ~Great Skellig~ swings high its cliffs seven hundred feet above the water. Clinging to the ridge of its impressive rocks "like swallows' nests" are the round roofs of the beehive cells which of old formed a citadel of Christianity. To Saint Michael the Archangel, guardian against all the powers of darkness, the isle is dedicated. Its history is of old date, for here Milesius buried the beloved son, Ir, that the thieving waters robbed of his soul. Here "the slanting, full-sailing s.h.i.+ps" of Daire, on their way to the great battle of Ventry Harbour, paused in their march along the deep. Here, too, in recording times, was the great hero-king of the Norse, Olaf Iryggveson, baptized.

A little cove, deep in the recess of a cavern, makes a landing stage, only to be attempted at favourable times. An easy path leads halfway round the island; then, mounting a flight of steps, the visitor beholds, spread before him, a green valley, the one patch of richness on the desolate rock. This is Christ's Saddle, from which, with reverent hearts, the "Way of the Cross" may be traversed, ending in the heart of Skellig-Michael. Each of the fourteen Stations have descriptive Gaelic names, such as "The Stone of Pain," where our Saviour falls the first time; "The Rock of the Woman's Piercing Caoine," where His Mother and the Holy Women have met. Lonely and deserted, none should enter these hallowed places but with feelings of reverence.

WATERVILLE.

The morning stillness, broken by the clear blast of the postillion's horn, reminds the visitor lingering lovingly over the sh.o.r.es at Cahirciveen that the coach for the coast tour is ready. With a crack of the whip that would do credit to Will Goldfinch, in the coaching days of old, the driver urges on his team, and the blooded four-in-hand cut their way clear of the town. The tour along the Atlantic between Cahirciveen and Kenmare is nearly fifty miles, and pa.s.ses through the most diversified country. The eleven miles as far as Waterville is first inland, pa.s.sing through dreary stretches of moorland, where the small black Kerry cattle manage to thrive, until Ballinskelligs Bay suddenly comes in sight. Bolus Head reaches out its great arm into the sea, to shelter the Bay from the winds. At one side may be seen the little town of Ballinskelligs, with its white Cable Station; and in at the head of the waters, beyond where the Inny river joins the sea, Waterville spreads itself out around the long sh.o.r.e. Here it lies on the little streak of land which protects Lough Currane from the embrace of the ocean. Coming down the hill, out of the town, the delusion is that this great fresh-water lake is but itself a bay, the mouth of which is concealed from view, but not so, for its waters run clear and fresh, and as fishful as the Erne. It is the best free fis.h.i.+ng lake in Ireland.

Just outside Waterville the Commercial Cable Company (Mackay-Bennett system) have their extensive offices.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photos, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Gannets on Little Skelligs.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Southern Hotel, Waterville.]

The road leads across the Inny, and we enter the little town by the pleasantly-situated Butler Arms Hotel. On going further, fronting the sh.o.r.e line, we pa.s.s the Bay View Hotel, and, following a bend in the hill, come suddenly in view of the beautiful Lough Currane, beside which, in the midst of plantations, more like a home than a well-equipped hostelry, which it is, the ~Southern Hotel~ is built.

Lough Currane is eight miles in circ.u.mference, and its sh.o.r.es are fretted with thousands of inlets. Through the windows of the Hotel, a charming view is had of the mountains which encircle the lake. On one side green slopes and pleasantly wooded heights meet the eye, and on the other, old familiar grey-faced mountains, with their heads raised on high among the clouds, s.h.i.+ning, changing, and fading in the silver mists. The surface of the lake, calm-faced and deep-welled, here and there lifts up to be admired beautiful islands. Here a saint made his temporal home, and in Church Island is the beehive cell where St. Finian prayed, "in whose orisons were all our sins remembered." The ruins of the sixth century church deserve the attention of the antiquary. Away at the head of Lough Currane is Coppal, where sea trout and small brown trout abound. It, too, has charms all its own, in parts wild and untamed, but again, calm as the race of a sleeping child. Full information as to the flies suitable for the lake, and the places well to troll, may be had from the best known angler in Kerry, Teigue M'Carthy. Like Sir Roger de Coverley's friend, Will Wimble, he can tie a fly "to a miracle," and he is an enthusiastic devotee of the "gentle art." Besides the attractions for fishermen, there are thousands of acres of shooting in the vicinity. There is plenty of opportunity and accommodation for bathing by the bay, and a new Golf Links, laid out under the best professional advice, affords a further source of healthful amus.e.m.e.nt. Over the hills from Waterville the pre-historic remains of Staigue Fort may be visited. It is the best example of cyclopean stone forts that remains in Ireland, and by authoritative antiquaries is said to be at least 2,000 years old.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Lake Currane.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Raheen, Lake Currane.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Cuthbert, Valencia._ Arbutus Rock, Lake Currane.]

EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF WATERVILLE.

TOUR 1.--The conveyance will leave the Hotel at 11 a.m. for a drive to Derrynane, the historic home of the Liberator, On reaching Coomakista Pa.s.s--the highest point of the road--a gradual descent brings the party to Derrynane House, and further on to Derrynane Hotel, close to the remains of the old Abbey. Those who wish to walk can get off the car at Coomakista, and walk one and-a-half miles to Lord Dunraven's cottage, where they can meet the cars. The path winds along the sh.o.r.e of Derrynane Bay, and well repays those who follow it on their way to the Abbey, The party can lunch at Derrynane Hotel, and may return by the path, and meet the car at Coomakista, or drive the whole way back to Waterville. Fare for four persons, _12s._

TOUR 2.--The conveyance will leave the Hotel at 11 a.m., and drive along the northern sh.o.r.e of Lough Currane. Crossing the Coomeragh by the Ivy Bridge, the road leads us as far as Isknamaclery Lake. At this point a unique view is obtained of Isknamaclery Lake and Lough Nabrackderrag on the right, and Loughs Namona and Cloonaghlin on the left. The party can have the option of proceeding on foot to Derriana Lake, or returning and driving along the Coomeragh to Derriana Lodge, and from thence returning to Waterville, or they can cross the Dromad Hills, and return by the river Inny. Fare for four persons, _12s._

TOUR 3.--The conveyance leaves the Hotel at 11 a.m. for Saint Finan's Glen. Before entering the Glen, a fine view is obtained of the Iveragh Mountains, and even the M'Gillicuddy Reeks, and later, the Lemon Rock and the Skelligs. After luncheon in the Glen, the party will return by Bolus Head, visiting the old Abbey of Saint Michael's and Ballinskellias Castle, and (with the permission of the Superintendent) the Atlantic Cable Station. For sea and mountain combined this view cannot be surpa.s.sed. Fare for four persons, _16s._

TOUR No. 4.--The conveyance will leave the Hotel at about 11 a.m., for the remarkable fort of Staigue-an-or. The route lies along the southern sh.o.r.e of Lough Currane for about six miles, (pa.s.sing the Waterfall) as far as Isknagahenny (Coppal) Lake, and good views are obtained of both lakes. At Isknagahenny Lake the party alights, and proceeds on foot for about four miles to the fort. When the highest point of the ascent is reached, a magnificent view is obtained of Kenmare river and the islands off the coast of Beara Peninsula. The descent to the foot is easy. After luncheon the party may return either by West Cove and Derrynane to Waterville, or again ascend the mountain and return by Lake Road. Fare for four persons, _16s._

Shorter excursions can be arranged.

HIRE OF BOATS

Boat and one man, _1s._ per hour, _5s._ per day. Boat and two men, _2s._ per hour, _10s._ per day.

In no case will the charge be for less than two hours.

POSTING ARRANGEMENTS.

Hire by Time (Driver's Fee included).

Two-horse carriage. One-horse car.

For the first hour, _7s. 0d._ _3s. 6d._

For two hours, _14s. 0d._ _7s. 0d._

For each additional hour or fraction of an hour _3s. 6d._ _2s. 0d._

Hire for Fixed Distances (Driver's Fee included).

Two-horse One-horse car.

carriage.

Waterville to Caragh Lake, -- _25s. 0d._