Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia Volume I Part 23

ANXIETY ON APPROACHING HANOVER BAY.

Sunday April 15.

Our anxiety to ascertain if any accident had happened to the schooner now became very great: since such a circ.u.mstance was of course by no means impossible. As our position would then have been very precarious, and our only chance of ultimate safety have rested on the most exact discipline and cautious rules of conduct being observed from the very first, I thought it would be most prudent not to allow such a calamity (had it occurred) to burst too suddenly upon the men when they were quite unprepared for it.

Two of them were therefore selected and, accompanied by these, I started before daylight for the sandy beach in Hanover Bay; leaving the party to make the best of their way to the heights above the valley where we had first encamped, and where plenty of food and water could be found for the ponies; these, in the event of anything having happened to the schooner, would become the mainstay of our hopes.

These arrangements having been made we moved off through the rocky difficult country we had first encountered: every step we took was over well-known ground, in which no change had taken place save that there were evident marks of bodies of natives having been in the neighbourhood since our departure.

As I proceeded nearly in a direct line to Hanover Bay we encountered some difficulty from the broken character of the ground, but about eleven o'clock had gained the hilly country at the back of the beach, from whence however we could not obtain a view of the spot where the vessel lay. On emerging from the mangroves upon the beach we saw painted upon the sandstone cliffs, in very large letters, "Beagle Observatory, letters south-east 52 paces."

REJOIN THE LYNHER. MEETING WITH THE BEAGLE.

No one who has not been similarly situated can at all conceive the thrill which went through me when these letters first met my eye; even had anything happened to the schooner, friends were upon the coast, and I knew that Captain Wickham, who had pa.s.sed a great portion of his life in adventures of this kind, would leave nothing undone which was in his power to ensure our safety. We now hurried across the beach, and on gaining the highest part of it saw the little schooner riding safely at anchor. A gun being fired all became life and expectation on board the vessel; and whilst the boat pulled ash.o.r.e we searched for our letters.

These had however not yet been deposited at the spot indicated, and I therefore conjectured that we should find them on board.

On reaching the vessel we learnt that the mate was gone to the Beagle, now lying in Port George the Fourth but expected to sail this very day.

It appeared that at 7 o'clock on the morning of the 8th the report of four carronades was heard on board the schooner; this was conjectured by all to denote the presence of the Beagle on the coast, but the echo ran from cliff to cliff with so many reverberations that none could tell from what direction the sound had originally proceeded. The silence of the night was not again disturbed; and those on board the schooner felt no small solicitude to know if their conjectures were correct, and if so in what direction the Beagle lay.

ARRIVAL OF THE BEAGLE.

The next morning the mystery was cleared up. Before noon a yawl was seen to round the headland and to stand across the bay in the direction of the mouth of Prince Regent's River. As soon as the schooner was recognised the yawl altered her course, and Captain Wickham was soon on board the Lynher, making anxious enquiries for us and ascertaining what steps could be taken to a.s.sist us and promote our views.

From that time up to the present date the Beagle had lain in Port George the Fourth to take in wood, water, etc., and to await the return of Mr.

Stokes, who was absent exploring the coast between Collier's Bay and Port George the Fourth.

As there was no time to lose I at once started in a boat for the Beagle, and it was late in the evening when we drew near it. I could see anxious groups looking eagerly at the little boat as it drew near, and when at length we were recognised the hearty cheers that greeted us as we came up alongside plainly showed that the pleasure of meeting was not confined to ourselves.

RESULTS OF HER SURVEY.

As Mr. Stokes was hourly expected to return, and I was very anxious to know if he had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg, I remained on board the Beagle and, as all had much to hear and much to communicate, the evening wore rapidly away. The next day Mr. Stokes arrived, having seen nothing of the mouth of the river; this however in my apprehension arose from the greater portion of the time they were absent having been spent in the examination of Collier's Bay, which was the point of by far the greatest interest and promise; and that consequently they were compelled, from want of time and supplies, to examine the intervening coastline less narrowly than its irregular character rendered necessary. What rather confirms this opinion is, that Captain King, in his survey of this part, states his belief, drawn from observation, that it is indented with inlets similar to Prince Regent's River, now this is exactly the character of the Glenelg.

Mr. Stokes described Camden Sound as being one of the finest harbours he had seen; and, such being the case, it must undoubtedly be the most important position on this part of the coast. It lies close to the Glenelg and Prince Regent's River, two large navigable streams; and I have already declared my opinion that I have never seen a richer tract of country than the extensive alluvial and basaltic districts in the neighbourhood of the Glenelg, and under the rare circ.u.mstance of lying between two navigable rivers which are separated from each other by so short an interval.

PREPARATIONS FOR REEMBARKING.

Soon after Mr. Stokes's arrival I started for the Lynher, and the next morning repaired on sh.o.r.e. During my absence on board the Beagle fourteen natives had made their appearance near the encampment on the cliffs above the valley; they appeared however to have been solely attracted from motives of curiosity and a desire to visit our former huts. From the fearful disposition which had hitherto been evinced by the natives of these parts it was necessary however that every precaution should be observed. This was most carefully done by Mr. Lus.h.i.+ngton; and as soon as the natives saw that they were watched they moved off and were not again observed, although the smokes of their fires were visible in several points.

On the 17th we commenced our preparations for leaving this part of the coast. The stores remaining were all carried on board. We had but eleven ponies left, the greater number of which were so marked and scarred from falls amongst the rocks that they would have been valueless if brought to sale; besides which, to have cut and dried a quant.i.ty of gra.s.s sufficient for them until we reached the Isle of France would, in the burnt up state of the country, have delayed us many days, had we even succeeded at last.

On the other hand, if left free in the bush, two good mares which were amongst them might possibly be the means of giving a very valuable race of horses to this country. These considerations determined me; and the companions of our weary wanderings were turned loose--a new race upon the land; and, as we trusted, to become the progenitors of a numerous herd.

STATE OF THE PLANTS AND SEEDS LEFT AT THE ENCAMPMENT.

Our whole residence in this country had been marked by toils and sufferings. Heat, wounds, hunger, thirst, and many other things had combined to hara.s.s us. Under these circ.u.mstances it might have been imagined that we left these sh.o.r.es without a single regret; but such was far from being the case: when the ponies had wandered off, when all the remaining stores had been removed, and the only marks of our residence in this valley were a few shattered bark huts, young coconut plants, a bread-fruit, and some other useful trees and plants, I felt very loth to leave the spot. I considered what a blessing to the country these plants must eventually prove if they should continue to thrive as they had yet done and, as I called to mind how much forethought and care their transport to their present position had occasioned, I would very gladly have pa.s.sed a year or two of my life in watching over them and seeing them attain to a useful maturity. One large pumpkin plant in particular claimed my notice. The tropical warmth and rains, and the virgin soil in which it grew, had imparted to it a rich luxuriance: it did not creep along the ground, but its long shoots were spreading upwards amongst the trees. The young coconuts grew humbly amidst the wild plants and reeds, their worth unknown. Most of these plants I had placed in the ground myself, and had watched their early progress: now they must be left to their fate.

REEMBARKATION.

Amidst such thoughts we resumed our course down the valley and embarked in the boats; but had not proceeded far when a dog belonging to one of the men was missed and, as we could not abandon so faithful a companion, a party returned to search for it, and the dog was brought safely on board.

SAIL FOR THE MAURITIUS.

We then weighed and sailed for the Isle of France, where we arrived on the 17th May without having met with any circ.u.mstance on our voyage worthy of record.

CHAPTER 11. NATURAL HISTORY. CLIMATE. ABORIGINES.

NATURAL HISTORY.

North-Western Australia seems to be peculiarly prolific in birds, reptiles, and insects, who dwell here nearly unmolested, mutually preying upon each other, and thus, by a wise provision, setting the necessary check to their own multiplication.

DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS.

Of quadrupeds there are but few species, and of these the individuals, considered in proportion to the surface they roam over, are rare. The only species I observed during a residence of five months were four of kangaroos, namely the large Macropus giganteus ? of Shaw, two smaller kinds, one of which is the Petrogale brachyotis of Gould, and a kangaroo rat, which last is always seen amongst the rocks on the sea coast. One species of opossum, a flying squirrel (Petaurista) two kinds of dog, of which one is new, rats, and a fieldmouse. Of these the kangaroos are alone numerous, and only in particular spots.

NEW KANGAROO.

I shot a female kangaroo of the Petrogale brachyotis near Hanover Bay, and by the preservation of the skin and other parts enabled Mr. Gould to identify it as a new species.

This graceful little animal is excessively wild and shy in its habits, frequenting, in the daytime, the highest and most inaccessible rocks, and only descending into the valleys to feed early in the morning and late in the evening. When disturbed in the daytime amongst the roughest and most precipitous rocks, it bounds along from one to the other with the greatest apparent facility, and is so watchful and wary in its habits that it is by no means easy to get a shot at it. One very surprising thing is, how it can support the temperature to which it is exposed in the situations it always frequents amongst the burning sandstone rocks, the mercury there during the heat of the day being frequently at 136 degrees. I have never seen these animals in the plains or lowlands, and believe that they frequent mountains alone.

NEW DOMESTIC DOG.

The new species of dog differs totally from the Dingo or Canis australiensis. I never saw one nearer than from twenty to thirty yards, and was unable to procure a specimen. Its colour is the same as that of the Australian dog, in parts however having a blackish tinge. The muzzle is narrow, long, thin, and tapers much, resembling that of a greyhound, whilst in general form it approaches the English lurcher. Some of the party who went to Timor stated it to resemble precisely the Malay dog common to that island, and considered it to be of the same breed; which I think not improbable, as I cannot state that I ever saw one wild, or unless in the vicinity of natives; in company with whom they were generally observed in a domesticated state. On the other hand the Canis australiensis was common in some parts in a state of nature: of these I saw several myself and, from the descriptions given by other individuals of the party of dogs they had observed, I recognised their ident.i.ty with the same species. We heard them also repeatedly howling during the night and, although they never attacked our sheep or goats, many portions of dead animals were carried off by them. I saw but two flying squirrels and know not to which species of Petaurista they are to be referred.

OTHER ANIMALS.

Both mice and rats are common, the former precisely resembling in appearance the English fieldmouse. The rats on one occasion ate up a live pet parakeet, leaving the bones gnawed and strewed about; and on another, when I had shot a crane (Ardea scolopacea) intending it for breakfast, they in the night devoured nearly the whole of it.

CHECKS ON INCREASE OF ANIMALS.

The multiplication of kangaroos, opossums, rats, etc. may be checked by various causes; but man, I imagine, is the most deadly enemy they have to contend with. The numerous remains of these animals that I have seen about the native fires attest the number destroyed. In all those caves in which I found native paintings were representations either of kangaroo hunts, or of men bringing down these animals dead on their shoulders; and many a hollow tree bore witness of its having been smoked in order to drive forth to certain death the trembling opossum or bandicoot rat which had taken refuge in it.

INFLUENCE OF MAN ON THEIR HABITS.

A convincing proof of the dread in which man is held by the various kinds of kangaroos is given by their extreme shyness. I never but on two or three occasions got within shot of the larger kangaroos as they were always so wary; and, although I at different times wounded two, I never could succeed in actually capturing either. Now, when the detached party sent forward just before we commenced our return to Hanover Bay crossed a range of mountains on which were neither traces of the natives or their fires, they found the direct reverse of this to be the case, and were all surprised at the tameness of the kangaroos compared with those they had previously seen.

In the same way, when I entered a new district, the birds merely flew up into a lofty tree without attempting to go farther away, and it was not until I had shot for a day or two in the neighbourhood of a place that the birds there became at all wild.

The native dog, doubtless being dependent for subsistence upon the game he can procure, must contribute to thin the numbers of the lesser animals, who also, together perhaps with the rapacious dog himself, frequently fall a prey to the various snakes that inhabit the country; as was evinced in the event narrated on the 16th of March of the destruction, by Mr. Lus.h.i.+ngton, of the boa with a small kangaroo compressed in its folds.

The manner, too, in which I have seen the rapacious birds of prey soar over plains where the small kangaroos abound, convinces me that they also bear their part in the destruction of this harmless race.

TRACES OF AN ANIMAL WITH A DIVIDED HOOF.

I have already alluded to the paucity of quadrupeds, both in species and in number, but I have still to record the remarkable fact of the existence in these parts of a large quadruped with a divided hoof: this animal I have never seen, but twice came upon its traces. On one occasion I followed its track for above a mile and a half, and at last altogether lost it in rocky ground. The footmarks exceeded in size those of a buffalo, and it was apparently much larger, for, where it had pa.s.sed through brushwood, shrubs of considerable size in its way had been broken down and, from the openings there left, I could form some comparative estimate of its bulk. These tracks were first seen by a man of the name of Mustard, who had joined me at the Cape, and who had there been on the frontier during the Kaffir war; he told me that he had seen the spoor of a buffalo, imagining that they were here as plentiful as in Africa. I conceived at the time that he had made some mistake, and paid no attention to him until I afterwards twice saw the same traces myself.

BIRDS.