Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia Volume I Part 38

ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.

March 24.

The morning did not promise very well, but soon after sunrise the wind s.h.i.+fted so much to the westward that we were able to run along sh.o.r.e, and in the course of the day we made altogether about forty-five miles, tracing the greater part of the remaining unknown portion of the sh.o.r.es of Shark Bay. On leaving the Gascoyne, a low point bore due south of us, distant about twelve miles, which I named Point Greenough after George Bellas Greenough, Esquire, the president of the Royal Geographical Society; and between this point and the river lay a deep bay, the sh.o.r.es of which were low and thickly studded with mangroves, through which many salt.w.a.ter creeks ran up into the country. Two of these creeks I had examined on a previous occasion, and therefore now paid no attention to them.

EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD. ITS CHARACTER.

After pa.s.sing Point Greenough the sh.o.r.e trended south by east and for the next eight miles preserved its low character, being still thickly wooded with mangroves; but at this point a remarkable change takes place as the mangroves suddenly cease, and the low range of hills which extends southward along the coast parallel to the sh.o.r.e increases a little in height. In about another mile the mangroves again commence, the coast now trending south-east; and about five miles further it runs south-east by east, forming a bay about four miles deep, the bottom of which is tolerably clear of mangroves.

CONTINUE OUR COURSE TO THE SOUTHWARD.

Having crossed this bay we ran south-east by south parallel to the sh.o.r.e; the mangroves now became less continuous and numerous, at least they appeared to us to be so, and the range of hills seemed also to approach much nearer to the sea. We continued on this course until sunset, when I selected a snug little bay in the mangroves, where we anch.o.r.ed at the distance of a few yards from the sh.o.r.e and made ourselves as comfortable as we could for the night.

CHARACTER OF THE COAST AND SEA.

There was great beauty in the scenery which we saw during the day's sail; the waters and the sky had that peculiar brilliancy about them which is only seen in fine weather and in a tropical climate. To the west of us lay an apparently boundless expanse of sea, whilst to the eastward we had a low sh.o.r.e fringed with trees, not only down to the water's edge but forming little green knolls of foliage in the ocean itself; behind these trees lay low wooded hills, and in front of them stalked and swam about pelicans and waterfowl in countless numbers. We had only about three feet depth of clear transparent water, through which we saw that the flats beneath us were covered with vivid coloured sh.e.l.ls of many genera, some of which were of a very large size; strange-looking fish of a variety of kinds were also sporting about; more particularly sharks of a new species (of that kind which I shot at in mistake for an alligator) and stingrays.

Whenever a lull occurred the men, unable to resist the chance of getting a meal, would jump out of the boat, and give chase to one of these sting-rays, boat-hook in hand, and then loud peals of laughter rose from the others as the pursuer, too anxious to attain his object, missed his stroke or, stumbling, rolled headlong in the water. The fineness of the day, the novelty of the scenery, and the rapid way we were making made the poor fellows forget past dangers, as well as those they had yet to undergo. My own meditations were of a more melancholy character, for I feared that the days of some of the light-hearted group were already numbered and would soon be brought to a close. Amidst such scenes and thoughts we were swept along, whilst this unknown coast, which so many had anxiously yet vainly wished to see, pa.s.sed before our eyes like a panorama or a dream, and, ere many years have hurried by it is probable that the recollection of this day will be as such to me.

BOAT LEFT AGROUND BY THE TIDE.

March 25.

This morning I was up early in order that we might lose no time in getting under weigh; I was much surprised however to find both boats aground, and when the day had dawned sufficiently to enable me to distinguish surrounding objects I could not make out the sea, but found that we were lodged in a regular mangrove bush. I walked a few yards to get a clear view to the westward and found that we were at least a mile inland, so far does the tide run in over this low level sh.o.r.e. My eyes were so sore that I could scarcely see and I therefore did not attempt to make an excursion into the country, but sent a party for this purpose, who ascended the first low range of hills and reported that the country as far as they could see to the eastward was a succession of low mud flats subject to the overflowings of the sea. There was a promising-looking creek immediately to the south of us.

The tide came very slowly in until ten o'clock, which was about the time of high-water: but here it had only half risen and remained stationary for some time, when it began to ebb again, but soon meeting the second flood, now came pouring rapidly in, and just before sunset there was water enough for us to get off. We pulled to a low point, distant about two miles, and which bore south by east from us; and having anch.o.r.ed off this waited for the morning dawn to pursue our voyage.

CONTINUE A SOUTHERLY COURSE.

March 26.

In the morning I found that the point we were anch.o.r.ed off ran south-east and north-west: it was about two miles long and formed a low spit of land whence the coast trended due south. I debated for a few minutes whether I should explore the creek which lay to the south of us, but decided in the negative. Had I followed my own wishes I should have done so, but the lives of others now depended on my incurring no unjustifiable delay, and it did not therefore appear to be of importance; besides, as we had now traced the unknown portions of this great bay, and had moreover discovered in it a country in every way fitted for immediate occupation, and which indeed appeared from its soil and position to be one of the most valuable portions of the western side of the Continent, I thought that everything worthy of any great risk or danger had been accomplished, and resolved to hurry homewards.

STEER FROM THE MAIN.

After following the coast for a few miles further to the south I considered we were now far enough to windward to fetch somewhere near the centre of Perron's Peninsula; I therefore made sail and steered for that point.

ANOTHER GALE OF WIND.

Our pa.s.sage across was a long and tedious one, and when at last towards evening we sighted Perron's Peninsula it was very evident that my boat would not do more than fetch the very northern point, but the other boat, which was a much better sailer, was nearly a mile to windward of us. The weather had been for the last hour or two very threatening, and we had reached to within two miles of the sh.o.r.e when the wind suddenly s.h.i.+fted to the south-west and began to blow a terrific gale. We had just time to down sail and take to the oars, and as every one of the crew saw that his life depended on it they gave way strenuously. We were under the lee of the Peninsula and had it not been for this circ.u.mstance must undoubtedly have been lost. That gale of wind was a terrible and magnificent sight. I stood at the steer oar; the waves lifted the boat each time nearly broadside on, and it was all I could do to bring her head round in time to meet the next sea, but the men pulled steadily. "Now men, give way for your lives," I called out if they flagged, and renewed energy was instantly infused into all of them. At times we could not hold our own against the wind and waves, and at the most favourable moments seemed merely to stand still. I looked at the sh.o.r.e until my eyes ached; but no nearer did it appear to be than at first, and gradually grew less distinct as the daylight faded. We could only see the other boat now and then; but although she was evidently in imminent peril they were much nearer in sh.o.r.e than we were. The danger we underwent on this occasion was great; but the excitement of so wild and grand a scene was highly pleasurable, and when success at last crowned our exertions, and we went dancing wildly in through the surf and spray upon a rocky unknown sh.o.r.e, and found the other crew on the beach ready to help us in hauling up, I felt that there is a charm attached to scenes like these which can only be fully estimated by those who have experienced it. Having in our turn a.s.sisted to haul up the other boat we lighted our fires and laid down for the night.

PERRON'S PENINSULA.

March 27.

This morning I found that all our hands were so fatigued by the exertions of the previous day that a few hours of comparative rest was absolutely necessary. I therefore directed them to stroll about the beach for an hour or two and to collect oysters or sh.e.l.lfish. The part of Perron's Peninsula which we were on consists of abrupt cliffs of the height of about two hundred feet; at the base of these and between them and the sea there is a narrow strip of sandy land and dunes, and at their summit is a barren sandy tableland, gently sloping away to the southward and appearing to extend throughout the whole length of the peninsula.

As soon as I thought the men were sufficiently rested we launched the boats, but on rounding the northern extremity of the peninsula met a heavy sea running from the southward and were obliged to take to the oars. We had not got more than two miles to the southward of Cape Leseuer when I saw so many indications of an approaching gale that I ran in again and beached the boats; and this operation was hardly accomplished ere it blew with terrific violence from the south-south-west. Both here and at our last night's encampment we saw numerous signs of natives, and now found several native wells in the sandhills, but had no occasion to use them as we had regular tropical rain for the rest of the day. The men here brought me the bones of a very large marine animal which they had found at the natives' fire, but I could not recognise them as belonging to any that I was acquainted with. At this period, from bad food and being constantly wet with salt water, we were all afflicted with sores of the most painful and annoying character, and these much increased the unpleasantness of our situation.

ANOTHER GALE.

March 28.

This morning the weather looked tolerably fine; I therefore ordered the boats to be launched and, after pulling a few miles to windward along Perron's Peninsula, we struck across for Dirk Hartog's Island; our former ill-luck however still attended us, for just as we were making the land another fearful gale from the south-south-west came on, and had we not had the good luck to have got under the lee of the Coin de Mire of the French we must infallibly have been wrecked; as it was we pulled along under this promontory and beached the boats in a little bay at its north-west extremity. Nothing but absolute necessity could however have induced me to take such a step, for the place was rocky and difficult of access, with a heavy surf breaking on the beach. The rain fell in torrents during the greater part of the evening, and the men spent the time in searching for oysters and sh.e.l.lfish with which to appease their hunger. The rain which had fallen during the last two days had a very injurious effect upon some of us, for, our clothes having been lost with the other things which were swept away from the depot during the hurricane of the first of March, we were very insufficiently clad.

DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.

March 29.

The weather this morning being very foul I occupied myself in making a survey of a portion of Dirk Hartog's Island, which is of a very barren nature, though rather better than either Bernier or Dorre Islands, but for many years to come it must be utterly useless. It looks exactly like a Scottish heath; and I have no doubt whatever that water would be found by digging on it; but as we could have obtained plenty from large holes in the rocks we did not make the attempt. Whilst I was occupied in this examination of the island the wind s.h.i.+fted suddenly to the north-west and I hurried back to the party in order not to lose so favourable an opportunity.

On arriving at the boats I found that the water had not been completed, nor had three days' provisions (such as they were) been cooked, although I had left orders when I went away that these necessary preparations for our moving should immediately be made; this gave me another reason to suspect that, during my temporary absence from the party, discipline was now altogether neglected, and indeed treated as an unnecessary restraint under existing circ.u.mstances. Mr. Smith had warned me that such was the case, and I therefore never separated myself from any portion of the party without great anxiety; for I well knew that the safety of all depended upon preserving the strictest subordination.

In this instance however I merely ordered the boats to be instantly launched; for I knew that to lose a fair wind in our present situation would be rashness; and we were soon bounding before the breeze. The wind now continued fair and at nightfall we landed on the main in such a position as to look out to the open sea, through the pa.s.sage between Steep Point and Dirk Hartog's Island.

PERILOUS COASTING.

March 30.

This morning we pulled up the opening and found a perfect bubble of a sea running into it and breaking on the various reefs which lie in its mouth.

We then made an attempt to pull round Steep Point and succeeded in getting out to sea; but there was a formidable swell setting dead on the sh.o.r.e and drifting us rapidly in towards it, whilst in the event of being stranded nothing could have saved our lives for the surf was so tremendous that the boat must instantly have gone to pieces, and the lofty limestone cliffs were perfectly inaccessible, being hollowed out into deep caverns by the action of the waves. The attempt to get along this coast appeared indeed to be so hazardous that even the old sailors who were with me begged me not to risk it, but rather to allow them to endeavour to walk overland to Perth. I was well aware that had I attempted to do this at least half the party would have been lost; for but few men can support the fatigue of making long and continuous marches in a very warm climate in which a great scarcity of water prevails.

SHELTER UNDER A REEF.

I however humoured them so far as to put back for the mouth of the opening, where, under the shelter of a reef, we could lie at anchor for a few hours in the hope that the sea would lull a little; we however only just cleared Steep Point, and whilst doing so I felt certain for two or three minutes that we must have gone ash.o.r.e, for each breaker lifted the boat bodily towards the cliffs; as it was however it pleased Providence to bring us safe to our anchorage.

We were now about to enter on the most perilous part of our journey homewards. For the next one hundred and twenty miles along the coast I could not hope to find a place whereon to beach the boats, in the event of our meeting with those unfavourable winds which we had hitherto found so prevalent. It would, in the present weak state of the party, take us many successive days to make this pa.s.sage; and, should the weather be really foul, accompanied by strong gales from the south-west, our fate would soon have been decided. Nevertheless our hope of ultimate safety rested altogether upon the accomplishment of the difficult task we were about to commence.

INSUBORDINATION CHECKED.

I soon found that remaining in a state of inactivity would but increase our difficulties; for as the men talked over them to one another, they grew wore and more gloomy, and when at length I gave a particular order to a man of the name of Woods he quietly refused to obey it, saying that he now considered that his life was altogether lost, and that he would therefore knock off work. I was rather puzzled for a minute or two as to how I ought to act under these circ.u.mstances, for such an example as he had set necessarily exercised a bad influence over the others; yet there was no use in threatening to punish where I had not the means to do so; I therefore merely turned round to the man who had the charge of sharing out our scanty allowance of provisions and desired him to divide Woods'

portion of water and provisions amongst the rest of us today, as I intended for the future that he should have none, at all events not until he did his fair share of work. This had the desired effect; he soon came to his senses and told me that I might as well throw him overboard at once as starve him, to which I replied that unless he overcame his cowardice and bore his proportion of the toil we all had to go through I should in no way whatever interfere with his starving, being thrown overboard, or anything else; but that I would take very good care that he had neither a morsel to eat or a drop of water to drink; whereupon he again resumed his duty and from that time forward proved to be one of the best men I had with me; indeed I never again had occasion to find fault with him.

Seeing however what a pernicious effect this delay was likely to produce I determined at once to cope with those difficulties, which we must either overcome or perish; and accordingly round Steep Point we again went, and for the rest of this evening and night contended with the heavy sea as well as we could, keeping about a mile from the sh.o.r.e, sometimes pulling and sometimes getting a favourable slant of wind.

March 31.

This day we continued our course, tracing out the sh.o.r.e. A small piece of raw pork was served out to each man; and I found this to be a very nice and palatable morsel; it however increased our thirst, which, as we were upon very short allowance of water, was rather a disadvantage; but it was absolutely necessary that we should take some nourishment.

CHARACTER OF THE Sh.o.r.e.

The country hereabouts is very uninviting, consisting of a high range of barren limestone hills, ascending gradually from steep cliffs which form the coastline. These hills are of such equal elevation that they have a monotonous as well as barren appearance, and are rent in places by deep rocky gullies which run down into the sea. No change whatever took place in the character of the coast throughout our day's ruin, nor did I see a spot where a boat could land. I did not close my eyes during Sunday night, for we were still in a most perilous position, and I felt that whilst we were on so dangerous a coast with a foul wind it was my duty to keep upon the alert as long as wearied nature would admit of my so doing.

As soon as there was sufficient light for me to distinguish the coastline I found that it was somewhat losing its monotonous character by breaking into more detached hills; and about ten A.M., we reached the northern extremity of Gantheaume Bay.

TO GANTHEAUME BAY.

The men being now completely worn out by want of rest, incessant exertion, and the mental anxiety they had undergone in the last fifty-six hours, during the whole of which time they had been in actual danger, I determined to attempt a landing in Gantheaume Bay, and therefore pulled along sh.o.r.e with the intention of finding a spot where we could easily land and yet be near a place likely to afford us water; for notwithstanding the economy we had practised none now was left. I soon came to an opening in the bay which I thought would suit our purpose, but Ruston, on whose opinion in such matters I placed great reliance, reported it to be utterly impracticable; we still therefore pulled along the sh.o.r.e, and found it lashed throughout its whole extent by a fearful surf. The south end of the bay, although protected by a reef, had just as heavy a surf breaking on it as any other part of the sh.o.r.e and was also very rocky, we therefore turned back to a sandy beach which we had pa.s.sed in pulling round the bay and, having carefully examined this, it appeared in every way suited to our purpose, so we committed ourselves to the mercy of the breakers and in we went. As I stood at the steer-oar I saw that this was a heavier surf than we had ever yet been in. We were swept along at a terrific rate, and yet it appeared as if each following wave must engulf us, so lofty were they, and so rapidly did they pour on.