Do-It-Yourself - Spackled And Spooked Part 27

John flushed a painful crimson from the stiff collar of the suit to the roots of his newly dyed black hair. "So that's where you read the name," he said in a strangled voice.

I shrugged apologetically. After a minute, he seemed to pull himself together. "I didn't sleep with her, you know. We worked together, and I liked her, but she was married. I'm not saying that something might not have developed if she'd been free, but I wasn't about to get in the middle of their marital problems."

"So they had marital problems?"

He nodded. "Sure, yeah. He wasn't abusive, not physically, but after Peggy went to work, I guess maybe he felt like he wasn't needed. She could go out and make her own living. So he started drinking more, staying out late, getting into trouble at work. She talked about leaving. She might as well live on her own, she said; she did everything herself anyway."

"Is that why he shot her, do you think? And her parents?"

"I always thought it was," John said. "I figured her folks came up to Waterfield to help her pack up her stuff, but when she told him she was taking Patrick and moving out, he couldn't handle it."

"Tragic."

He nodded. "I'll take that ma.n.u.script, though. Don't want anyone else to get their hands on it. Might give someone the wrong idea."

"I'll drop it off at the store tomorrow," I promised.

Ricky was thrilled to have the other boxes of paperwork, and he was also very complimentary about the job we'd done on the house. "I don't remember much from the time I lived here," he said apologetically. No one seemed surprised, so he must have told the others who he was. "And I wouldn't want to move back in, but I feel almost like I could. It looks like a different place now." He looked around.

"I'm not sure I ever thanked you," I answered, "but I appreciate your selling it to us. We've enjoyed renovating it." After the footsteps and screams were disengaged, anyway, and the murders were solved and the murderer put away.

"My pleasure," Ricky said. He promised to come back for the boxes of paperwork sometime when they weren't all sharing a car, and I told him he was welcome any time.

After that, it was pretty much one thing right after the other until late in the evening, when Derek collapsed on the Finn Juhl sofa and I curled up in the Eero Saarinen tulip chair across from him with my wine.

"Think we did OK?" he asked.

"I think so."

"Good." He stretched his legs out in front of him, leaned his head back, and closed his eyes. I watched his eyelashes make shadows across his cheeks, and his chest rise and fall with every breath. After a minute, he opened his eyes again. "Think any of 'em will want to buy the place?"

The open house for prospective home buyers had been our realtor's idea. A Realtor who wasn't-Lord be praised-Melissa James.

"Irina seemed confident that we'd get an offer soon," I answered. "She said that several of the people who stopped by said they were interested."

Yes, our realtor was Irina Rozhdestvensky. Turned out she was affiliated with one of the big national brokerage chains out of Portland, and that she was brand new at her job and desperately needed someone to take a chance on her. I was so thrilled at the thought of not hiring Melissa-OK, thrilled at the idea of putting one over on Melissa-that I hadn't even blinked at the idea of giving the listing to someone totally unproven. So far it seemed to be working well enough, although Irina had just been marketing the place for the past week or so. Still, the Halloween open house had been her brainchild, and a fairly successful one, it seemed. We'd been overrun with people, and although most had been curious neighbors (and kids looking for candy), some had been genuine homebuyers looking for a house, as well.

"Maybe we'll get rid of the place before Christmas, then." Derek closed his eyes again.

"Speaking of Christmas," I said.

"Yeah?"

"I don't think I mentioned that my mother is thinking of coming to visit."

"Here?"

I nodded.

"No," Derek said, "you didn't mention that. Should I worry?"

"I don't see why. Just because I'm her only daughter, and she's coming all the way from California to check out the guy who made me give up a successful career in Manhattan to live hand to mouth in this backwater . . ."

Derek sat up straight, eyes wide, and I grinned. "Don't worry. She'll . . ." I was about to say "love you" but changed it at the last moment, "like you. What's not to like, right?"

"Right," Derek said, but he sounded unsure.

I peered at him. This display of insecurity was new, and really kind of sweet, everything considered. Most of the time he came across as comfortably self-confident, and the fact that he was worried about what my mother would think of him was endearing. It meant-I thought-that he was serious about me. Not that I'd doubted it, really-he'd taken me home to meet his parents-but we'd dated only a few months and were still figuring things out. But if he was concerned about finding approval with my mother, that must mean that he was in it for the long haul, right?

I uncurled from the chair, smiling, a warm glow suffusing my body and wiping away my fatigue. It could have been the wine or maybe the fire in the other room, but somehow I didn't think so. "You know, I've never had a boyfriend my mother liked."

"You're kidding."

I shook my head as I navigated around the kidney-shaped Adrian Pearsall-style walnut and gla.s.s coffee table. "She despised Philippe. Thought he was too good-looking to be trustworthy."

"That's a point in her favor, anyway," Derek said, watching me come closer. "My dad never liked Melissa, either. Accused me of thinking with my . . ."

I arched a brow, and he flushed. ". . . anyway, he thought she only chose me because she wanted to be married to a doctor."

"Your father's a smart man. So what does he think of me? Why does he think I chose you?" I stopped in front of him.

"Oh, he likes you. What's not to like?" He reached out and pulled me down on his lap. "And I'm under no illusions about that. You chose me because I'm good with my hands."

"You got that right," I said and leaned against him, laughing.

Berkley Prime Crime t.i.tles by Jennie Bentley.

FATAL FIXER-UPPER.

s.p.a.cKLED AND SPOOKED.

Home-Renovation and Design Tips.

Brown Paper Bagging Walls.

Paper bags are a fun way to add texture to a wall. Cover walls with brown grocery bags using starch or wallpaper paste, and then paint them as desired. The paint, coupled with the natural crinkle in the bag, adds a lot of texture and gives the room a warm, rich feel. If a piece is damaged later, just add another piece to the wall.

MATERIALS.

* Brown craft paper (or lots of brown grocery bags).

* Wallpaper paste * Paint brush (inexpensive) * Paint tray.

* Bucket * Newspapers * Large damp sponge.

DIRECTIONS.

1. Tear the craft paper or grocery bags into pieces approximately the size of a large dinner plate. Tear away all straight edges. Crumple each piece tightly into a ball.

2. Pour the wallpaper paste into the paint tray. Use the paint brush to apply paste onto the wall in about a four-foot by four-foot section.

3. Uncrumple each piece of brown paper and press it onto the wall. Do not smooth out all the wrinkles. This will give a lot of texture to the finished wall. Lay down the next piece slightly overlapping the first piece. Press down the edges with the damp sponge and remove the excess paste. You may have to periodically rinse and wring out the sponge. Continue painting on paste and applying the paper until the entire wall is covered.

4. Allow it to dry for forty-eight hours before painting or faux-finis.h.i.+ng.

Striping a Wall Stripes are a great decorative technique: They can be cla.s.sic and elegant, or wild and crazy. They never go out of style, and they can change the perceived size or dimension of a room. Horizontal stripes make a room appear bigger; vertical stripes make the ceiling look higher. Stripes work best if they're between four inches and twelve inches wide; less is too narrow and busy, more is too heavy and overwhelming. Before starting on the actual surface, it's a good idea to practice on a piece of poster board or cardboard to make sure you like the color combination you've chosen. Paint often looks different on the wall than it does in the can.

MATERIALS.

* Two different types of paint; different colors or different textures (i.e., flat and semi-gloss) * Drop cloths * Paint rollers * Painter's tape * Ladder * Laser or manual level * Measuring tape * Pencil or chalk * Credit card/plastic spoon (to burnish edges of tape) DIRECTIONS.

1. Spread drop cloths over the floor and cover moldings, windows, and appliances with painter's tape. Apply your base color; make sure to get nice, even coverage, as the base coat will be one of the stripes. Let it dry for forty-eight hours before starting work on the stripes.

2. Measure the wall, and calculate the number of stripes you'll need. Decide on the thickness of the stripes you want.

3. Divide the wall, using a laser or manual level and measuring tape. Mark the stripes with pencil or chalk. (Tip: Use blue chalk, because red or yellow is a permanent color.) 4. Tape off the stripes. Remember that because you'll only be painting every other stripe, you'll have to outline both sides. And be sure to tape outside the chalk line; the fresh paint will cover the lines.

5. Burnish the wall, i.e., rub the edges of the tape with a credit card or the bowl of a plastic spoon to keep the paint from seeping under the tape. That's how you get a nice, clean line.

6. Paint the stripes, making sure to paint over the tape line and to cover the entire area of each stripe.

7. Remove the tape, and voila, striped walls!

Turning a Dresser into a Bathroom Vanity Fitted with a new sink and faucet, a dresser makes an attractive vanity and offers more storage than many high-priced prefabricated models. If you don't have a dresser or chest you want to transform, midcentury modern pieces-like the one Avery used-are ubiquitous at secondhand shops and can often be purchased cheaply.

Choose a dresser that is in good condition and with dimensions to fit your s.p.a.ce. Check that it will accommodate the size and style of sink you want, too.

MATERIALS.

* Tape and marker * Jigsaw and other carpentry tools.

* Plumbing supplies * Polyurethane.

DIRECTIONS.

1. Plan the sink placement. Decide where you want the sink to be placed on the dresser top. Remove the drawers and any drawer supports that would interfere with the plumbing. Most sinks come with a positioning template; if yours does not, trace the sink outline onto paper to create one. Cut out the template and tape it in the desired place on the dresser top; trace around it. If the faucet sits on the countertop, mark its placement, too.

2. Cut the openings. Determine the location of the water supply and drain lines. Mark them on the back of the dresser (or do what Derek did, and remove the back panel for easy access). Using a jigsaw, cut the sink, faucet, and water supply or drain line openings.

3. Rework the drawers. Use a jigsaw to cut off the backs of the drawers that surround the sink and/or plumbing so that the drawer fronts fit perfectly in place.

4. Connect the water. Move the dresser into place and hook up the hot and cold water lines and the drainpipe. For added st.u.r.diness, secure the back of the dresser to the wall with screws drilled into the wall studs. Reinsert the drawers.

5. Waterproof the top. To make a wood top more resistant to water, apply two or three coats of polyurethane, allowing the sealant to dry thoroughly between each coat. To keep the finish pristine, wipe off water after each use. Or-alternatively-tile the top of the dresser.

Installing a Vessel Sink-or as the Case May Be, a Fiesta Dinnerware Bowl.

A few words before we get started:.

A vessel can be installed sitting on the countertop (above counter mounting), or it can be sunk into the counter a third or even half of its height. Some store-bought vessels are actually a sort of hybrid of a drop-in style sink and a vessel.

For an above-counter installation, you will need a hole that is large enough for the drain a.s.sembly. (That's the plumbing hardware that allows the sink to drain the water.) If the bottom of your vessel is flat-as is the case with a Fiesta dinnerware bowl-then the installation is straightforward. A bead of silicone under the sink and around the edge to prevent water from working its way underneath the vessel is a good idea. If you use a vessel with a rounded shape-as is the case with most store-bought gla.s.s vessel sinks-you have two options: You can either use something called a vessel mounting ring, or make a mounting hole directly in the countertop.

Mounting rings for vessel sinks can be found at most home centers or online. They usually come in several finishes that you can match to your faucet and drain. A vessel mounting ring elevates the sink from the countertop and helps with the stability and seal of the sink.

If you'd prefer to mount the vessel directly into the countertop, you will need a hole at least three inches in diameter, with a beveled edge. For stability, you may want the hole to be more in the range of five to six inches. The bigger the hole, the more stability you get; however, keep in mind that the bigger the hole, the more of the vessel will be invisible below the counter, too.

Whichever mounting method you use, remember that it's usually easier to install the drain in the vessel before fastening the vessel to the counter. Drains for vessel sinks come in two basic types: standard and vessel style.

If your vessel has an overflow, you will need a standard drain, like you would use on a standard sink. Many vessel sinks don't have overflows, though. A salad bowl obviously won't, and it will need a special vessel-style drain. Vessel drains don't have a "pop up" a.s.sembly like a standard drain. They're sometimes called grid drains because of the grid design that allows water to flow through but which stops larger items from going down the drain.

If you are converting a salad bowl to a sink, you're going to want to drill a hole in the bottom of the bowl to accommodate the drain before you get started. It's best to choose a bowl with a level or preferably even sloping bottom to allow for optimum drainage. If the water doesn't drain properly, and is trapped inside, it can cause discoloration, staining, and/or rust over time. Take care when you install the drain not to install it higher than the bottom of the bowl, too, to avoid the same problem.

Now on to the business of installation . . .

NOTE: For the purposes of this outline, we're going to a.s.sume you've got a counter installed. Maybe you're planning to put the vessel on top of the dresser you've already converted to a vanity? If not, you'll have to figure out how to add a new countertop to your existing sink base. It's not part of these instructions. This is for how to install the vessel sink, period.

DIRECTIONS:.

1. Set your new vessel sink on top of the counter. Mark the position of the sink and also where the drain hole is going to be. Also mark where your faucet will be. Make sure to give enough clearance between your faucet and vessel sink. If you're using something unusual-like a salad bowl-instead of a proper vessel sink, also make sure that the height of the bowl is a good match for the height of the faucet. If the bowl is too tall, you'll have to sink it into the surface enough to make the faucet work.

2. Drill a hole for your drain. If you're using a below-counter mount, you'll also have to drill the depression for the sink to rest in. Remember to bevel the edges.

3. Drill holes for the water feed tubes that will come down from the faucet to connect underneath the sink to the water lines.

4. Install the faucet prior to putting the vessel sink into its final position. Follow the manufacturer's instructions that came with your vessel faucets.

5. Make sure to connect cold and hot water tubing to the correct source on the water line. Use a ring of plumber's putty around the hoses as you screw them together. Make sure that all the connections are tight by turning the water on and checking for leaks.

6. Place a bead of silicone caulk at the base of the sink where it will touch the countertop, or follow directions for the mounting ring, if you're using one.

7. Put the sink gently in place and wipe off excess caulk.

8. You should have already attached the drain a.s.sembly, but if you haven't, do it now, following the manufacturer's instructions for your specific drain.

9. Screw on or tighten the nut firmly to hold the sink in place to the counter.

10. Connect the drain to the p-trap underneath, then connect the p-trap to the drainpipe on the wall. You may need an extension because the location and height of the drain has changed.

11. When everything is in place, check for leaks by turning on the faucet. Check around the drain, the drain itself, and underneath the sink. If there are leaks, take appropriate measure to get rid of them.