How to Enjoy Paris in 1842 Part 10

I should have thought that the Prussians who have fought with us would have known better of what metal English soldiers were composed. But to return to M. Thiers; I should still say notwithstanding all that has past, his talents are held in such estimation, that certain changes might occur which would again place him at the helm of the nation.

Having given a slight sketch of the two political chiefs who as it were head the most powerful contending parties, I must be still more brief in my notice of the other statesmen whose names, acts and speeches are before the public, amongst the most conspicuous of whom is Odilon Barrot, who is what may be termed decidedly liberal, or in plainer language radical, and has long sustained his cause with talent, energy, and consistence; he speaks well and boldly, and has. .h.i.therto acted in that manner which might be expected from the tenor of his speeches; sometimes however persons become calm, what others would call moderate, or a slight tint manifests itself in the colour of their politics, perhaps rendering them more harmonious with the reigning parties, but which accord not with the ideas of the most staunch advocates of a more _ultra_ liberal system; this appears to be somewhat the case with M.

Odilon Barrot, whose adherents judge from the support he gave to Thiers, that he is not so warm in the cause as themselves; however he still may be considered the chief of that division of the Chamber which he has always led. M. Mauguin was at one time the most violent of the same party, but during his visit to St. Petersburg he appears to have had such an affectionate hug from the Russian Bear, that he has latterly espoused the cause of Bruin, and would if he could induce France to throw England overboard altogether, and cast herself entirely into the arms of Russia.

M. Arago, the celebrated astronomer, has ever proved himself an honest undeviating radical, both in his speeches and his actions. As an orator, many give the palm to M. Berryer, but as his party is not numerous, being carlist, his talents do not receive the general appreciation that they would, had he attached himself to a more popular cause, but he deserves much credit for having faithfully and constantly adhered to his principles. M. Lamartine, the poet, who professes to be independent of any party, is also a very admired speaker, and so was Sebastiani, but now he is pa.s.sing fast into the vale of years, and has lost that spirit and energy which formerly gave much force to his speeches. M. Mole is another of those statesmen who has filled the most important political stations, but now is getting old and more quiet. As to dilating upon the merits and demerits of those persons who compose the present ministry, it would be but time lost, as they are so often changed in France that their brief authority is often _brief_ indeed, and with the exception of M. Guizot, (who is certainly a host within himself), and Marshal Soult, there is not any character that is particularly prominent, or remarkable for any extraordinary talent. The career of the Marshal is, I presume, well known to most of my readers, and the manner in which he was received in England proves the degree of estimation in which he was there held. He was the son of a notary at St. Amand, where he was born in 1769, being the same year which gave birth to Napoleon, Wellington, and Mehemet Ali. Admiral Duperre, the Minister of Marine, served with great credit to himself throughout the war, and commanded the force which defeated our attempt to take the Isle of France, in 1810, and the naval portion of the expedition employed in the capture of Algiers, was placed under his orders. There are yet a good many men whose names have been long and well known in the political world, who still take a more or less active part in the affairs of the nation, amongst whom may be cited the Baron Pasquier, President of the Chamber of Peers; M. Sauzet, President of the Chamber of Deputies, and the ministers Duchatel for the interior, Cunin Gridaine for commerce, Teste for public works, and Lacave Laplagne for finances; to whom may be added the Duke de Broglie, the Comte Montalivet, Dufaure, Joubert, Salvandy, Delessert, Isambert, Ganneron, etc., also the brothers Dupin, the eldest highly celebrated as an avocat, and the younger (Charles), for his writings upon the naval department, upon statistics in general, and a very clever work upon England. Amongst the extreme radicals, Ledru Rollin may be cited, General Thiard, Marie, a barrister of rising talent, and a young man named Billaud, who is coming forward, and considered to be rather a brilliant speaker. The foregoing names include several men who have had much experience, and possess moderate abilities, merely pa.s.sable as orators, but having a fair practical knowledge of political business, but not men of exalted genius, or such whose names will be likely to figure in the page of history; perhaps it may be with truth said, that the best statesman France now possesses, or even ever has possessed, is the King, it being very doubtful whether any of his ministers, or indeed any member of either of the chambers, is blest with that deep discernment and profound knowledge of human nature which he has displayed, by the correctness of his calculations upon the pulses of his subjects, under the most trying difficulties, and which have enabled him to weather the storm.

CHAPTER XIII.

The theatres, present state of the drama, and princ.i.p.al performers.

Collections of paintings.

It is rather extraordinary that in this age of superlative refinement, the drama should rather be upon the decline than otherwise in regard to the talent of the performers, but it appears to me that such is really the case both in England and France. I can just remember when Mrs.

Siddons, John Kemble, Charles Kemble, Young, Mrs. Jordan, Irish Johnson, Munden, Emery, etc. so well sustained the character of the English stage. Alas! shall I ever see the like again? Theatrical representations in France have had a similar decline, although _two_ stars there are who uphold her histrionic fame with superior _eclat_, Mlle. Rachel for tragedy, and Bouffe for comedy; it would be useless for me to attempt any description of the powers of the former, as she is as well known in London as in Paris, but with the latter my readers I believe are only partially acquainted; he has been in London, but I rather think only made but a short stay, certainly a more perfect representation of French nature it would be impossible to imagine; even although he undertake ever so opposite a description of character, the simple truth would be given in them all; he has not recourse to grimace or buffoonery, or any exaggerated action, but seems not to remember he is counterfeiting a part, but appears to make the case his own, and not to have another thought than that which must be supposed to occupy the mind of the individual he is personifying. Pleased with Bouffe to our heart's full content, we look around amongst all the range of actors to find some approach to his inimitable talent, not being so unreasonable as to hope to discover his equal, but our search ends in disappointment, we seek in vain for the representatives of Perlet, Odry, Laporte, and Potier, to whose comic powers we are indebted for many a laughing hour, but they are now replaced, as well as many other of our old acquaintances, by subst.i.tutes who are but sorry apologies for those we have lost; however, although the French theatre has certainly retrograded in respect to its dramatics personae, it has gained surprisingly with regard to scenery, decorations, and costumes, which very considerably enhance the interest of a theatrical performance, particularly when it is historical, and it is a satisfaction to know that no pains are spared to render the drapery as exact as possible to that worn at the period the piece is intended to represent; thus you have the most accurate peep into olden times that can possibly be afforded, and Paris offers such extreme facilities for ascertaining what description of dress was adopted at any particular age, by means of their immense collection of engravings, and written descriptions, contained in their old books, and ma.n.u.scripts, which are freely produced to any individual on making the proper application. Of these advantages the managers of the theatres avail themselves to the utmost extent, which enables them to be extremely correct, not only with regard to the habiliments, but also the scenery, and all the _accessoires_ are rendered strictly in keeping with the century in which the events recorded have occurred.

The Italian Opera in Paris is considered to be managed with great perfection, the company is much the same with regard to the princ.i.p.al singers as our own, consisting of Grisi, Persiani, Albertazzi, Lablache, Tamburini, Rubini, Mario, etc., as they can be obtained, according to their engagements in London or elsewhere, and the operas performed are also similar, therefore any description of either would be superfluous; altogether, the enjoyment afforded is not so great as at our own, as no ballet is given, and the coup-d'oeil is not so splendid as in ours.

The Theatre de la Renaissance is devoted to the performance of the Italian Opera, it is situated in the middle of a small square, opposite the Rue Mehul, which turns out of the Rue Neuve des Pet.i.ts Champs, from which it is seen to the best advantage; the facade has a handsome appearance, with the statues of Apollo and the nine Muses, supported by doric and ionic columns. The prices of the places are from ten francs to two francs, which last is the amphitheatre; the intermediate charges are seven francs ten sous, six francs, five, four and three francs ten sous the pit, and it is capable of containing 2,000 persons. The performance begins at eight.

The French Opera, or Academie Royale de Musique, in the Rue Pelletier, near the Boulevard des Italiens, has nothing very striking in its external appearance, but the arrangements and decorations of the interior are certainly extremely handsome, and everything is conducted on a most superior scale; the scenery and costumes are here in perfection, the arrangements and accommodations for seats are excellent.

The great strength of the vocal performance consists in Duprez and Madame Dorus Gras, to whom I have before alluded, and whose reputation is too well established to need any comment. They are ably seconded by Leva.s.seur, Madame Stolz who is well known in London, and the fine deep voice of Baroilhet, Boucher, Ma.s.sol, and Mademoiselle Nau, possess a moderate share of talent, there are also others whose abilities are of minor force but sufficient to support the subordinate _roles_. The orchestra and chorusses are extremely good and numerously composed, and on the whole it may be considered that they get up an opera in a very superior manner. The ballet at this theatre was formerly the greatest treat that could be imagined, derivable from performances of that nature, but at the present period the strength they possess in that department is by no means efficient. Carlotta Grisi stands alone as having with youth any degree of talent above mediocrity; the same can hardly be said of Mademoiselle Fitzjames, and Madame Dupont; n.o.blet is past that age which is indispensable in exciting interest as a dancer, notwithstanding she has still considerable ability, and there are not any others who are worth mentioning amongst the females. Of the men, when Pet.i.tpa is cited as having a grade more of ability than the rest, nothing more in the shape of praise can be added with respect to their present _corps de ballet_. This theatre is also capable of containing 2,000 persons, and the prices are from 2 francs 10 sous to 9 francs, the pit is 3 francs 12 sous, and there are as many as 20 different parts of the house cited with their respective charges. They sometimes begin at 7, more often 1/2 past, but never later.

The Theatre of the Comic Opera is situated in the rue Marivaux, Boulevard des Italiens, and the facade with its n.o.ble columns has a very fine effect, which is fully equalled by the decorations of the interior.

Chollet, still remains their princ.i.p.al singer; his voice is good, so is his knowledge of music, but he is now no longer young nor ever was handsome, but always a favourite with the public; he is supported by Roger who takes the _roles_ of young lovers, by Grard who has a fine ba.s.s voice, and Mocker with a good tenor; amongst the females is our countrywoman Anna Thillon, who is exceedingly admired, and at present the great attraction, she is pretty, lively, or sentimental, as her part may require, her voice is pleasing and it may be said that she is quite a pet with the Parisians; she is an excellent actress, and appears at home in every part she undertakes. Mademoiselle Prevost has for many years sustained a certain reputation as one of the princ.i.p.al singers at this theatre, for my own part I always thought her rather heavy and a want of feeling and expression both in her acting and singing. Madame Rossi Caccia, although only just returned from Italy, belongs to the company, she has a most admirable voice and is a great acquisition to the theatre, at which, on the whole, the amus.e.m.e.nts are of the most delightful description. The prices are from 30 sous to 7 francs 10 sous.

They begin at 7.

The Theatre-Francais in the Rue Richelieu holds the first rank, for the drama, of any theatre in France, where Talma, d.u.c.h.esnois, Mars and Georges have so often enchanted not only the French public, but persons of all nations who were a.s.sembled in Paris, and on these boards Mlle Rachel now displays her magic art; nor are the attractions of Mlle Plessis to be pa.s.sed over unnoticed, but as she has lately been to London, my country people can form a better judgment of her than from any description I can give. Mlle Anas is an actress who has been and is still rather a favourite, although now not young. Mlle Mantes is a fine woman upon a large scale, plays well and has been many years on the stage, but never created any sensation; Mlle Maxime rather stands high in the public estimation; Mlle n.o.blet and Mme Guyon possess moderate talent acquit themselves well, and are much liked, generally speaking.

At present Ligier is considered their best tragedian, but princ.i.p.ally owes what fame he has, to their actors in that department being of so mediocre a description, some people prefer Beauvallet but not the majority, their abilities are very nearly of the same stamp. Guyon is a fine young man, and plays the parts of young heroes very fairly. Geffroy is another, possessing sufficient merit to escape condemnation. As comic actors they have Regnier who may be placed upon the moderate list; Samson is certainly much better, and in fact by no means dest.i.tute of talent, which may decidedly be also stated of Firmin; Provost is likewise a very pa.s.sable actor. Comedy is indeed their fort, it is far more pure than ours; I remember making that remark to the celebrated John Kemble at the time he was residing at Toulouse, and adding that I considered our comic actors gave way too much to grimace and buffoonery.

Kemble replied, "Don't blame the actors for that, it is owing to the bad taste of the audience, by whom it is always applauded, and a thoroughly chaste performance, without some caricature, would not stand the same chance of success." The prices at the Theatre Francais are from 1 fr. 5 sous varying up to 6 fr. 12 sous, according to that part of the house in which you choose your seat; they begin sometimes 1/4 before 7.

The Theatre du Gymnase, on the Boulevart Bonne-Nouvelle, was once one of the most successful of any in Paris, but it does not sustain the high reputation it formerly possessed. Bouffe is now its princ.i.p.al support, and has indeed a most attractive power; there are also other actors of merit, as Klein, Numa, Tisserant, and Volnys, who sustain their respective parts extremely well; but when performing with such a star as Bouffe, their minor talents are eclipsed, and little noticed. Mad.

Volnys (formerly Leontine Fay) still retains that high reputation which she has so long and so justly merited, she ever was a most charming and natural actress. Mesdames Julienne, Habeneck and Nathalie are all rather above mediocrity, so that this theatre still affords the dramatic amateur much rational enjoyment. They commence at 6, and the prices range from 1 fr. 5 sous, to 5 fr.

The Theatre des Varietes always has been and is still a great favourite, where they play vaudevilles, a sort of light comedy, which are generally highly amusing; they have always contrived to have actors at this theatre who were sure to draw full houses, and that is the case at present. Lafont is an excellent actor and a very fine looking man, he has performed in London; Lepeintre yields to few men for the very general estimation in which his talents are held; Leva.s.sor is a man of very gentlemanly appearance, not at all wanting in a.s.surance, and always at his ease in every _role_ he is destined to fill. For females they have Mesdames Flore, Bressant, Boisgontier, Esther and Eugenie Sauvage, the first rather too much inclined to embonpoint, but playing her part none the worse for that, the last an actress of great merit, whilst the others act so well that one would wonder what they wanted with so many; besides which they have several others who are above mediocrity, and a few hours may be pa.s.sed any evening most agreeably at this theatre. The performances commence at 7, the prices are the same as at the Gymnase with regard to the minimum and maximum, but having altogether nineteen different intermediate specifications.

The Theatre du Palais-Royal, forming the corner of the Rues Montpensier and Beaujolais, and having an entrance in the Palais-Royal, is one of the most successful in Paris, and one of the very few which have proved good speculations, and they continue to have such excellent actors as cannot fail to attract. A. Tousez has much ability and is very comic, M.

and Mad. Lemesnil, M. and Mad. Ravel are very clever in their respective parts, Sainville is not less so; then amongst their first rate actresses they have Dejazet, who has been highly appreciated in London, Mlle Pernon, young, talented, and pretty, and Mlle Fargueil, handsome, and though youthful, already an excellent actress. The pit is only 1 fr. 5 sous, from which it rises to 5 fr. for the best seats. They begin at half-past six.

The Vaudeville Theatre is facing the Exchange in the Place de la Bourse, and retains a very good share of the patronage of the public; their performances are, for the most part, very good, and the pieces which are mostly played, are such as the name of the theatre indicates. Felix and Lepeintre jeune are much liked, Bardou is an excellent actor, Arnal a famous low comedian, M. and Mad. Taigny possessing very fair talent, and are called the pretty couple. Mesdames Doche and Thenard not without merit, and on the whole their corps dramatic is much above mediocrity.

Their light, comic, and amusing little pieces are well calculated to chase away a heavy hour. They commence at a quarter past seven, and the prices are much the same as at the Variete.

To the Porte St. Martin I have already alluded, situated on the Boulevart of the same name, although they often give very interesting pieces as melodramas, light comedies, etc., and always had some very good actors, yet it has seldom had the success to which the exertions of the proprietors were ent.i.tled. After a total failure the theatre has been re-opened, and amongst the actors there are some of known talent; Frederick Lemaitre may be considered their brightest star, once so celebrated in the role of Robert Macaire, Clarence, Raucour, Bocage, and Melingue sustain their parts very fairly, and the same may be said of Mesdames Klotz and Fitzjames, who are more than pa.s.sable actresses. The pieces begin as low as twelve sous, and rise to six francs. The performances commence at seven.

The Ambigu Comique is a theatre situated on the Boulevart St. Martin, and also for melodramas and vaudevilles; it has not been much more fortunate than its neighbour the Theatre Porte St. Martin, and the representations are very similar at both. St. Ernest, as an actor, and Madame Boutin, as an actress, appear to be the favourites amongst rather a numerous company, of which some are far from being indifferent performers. The prices are very modest, commencing at only ten sous, and elevating to four francs; it begins at seven.

The Gaiete, on the Boulevart du Temple, is another theatre of much the same description; at present, however, the company is considered to be very good: the strength consisting of Neuville, the brothers Francisque and Deshays, and of the females, Madame Gautier, Clarisse, Leontine, Abit, and Melanie are considered the best. Some pieces have come out at this theatre that have had a great run. The prices begin at eight sous and rise to five francs. They also commence at seven.

The Theatre des Folies Dramatiques is likewise on the Boulevart du Temple, and varies very slightly from the last, except being one grade inferior, and the prices in proportion, commencing at six sous, and not mounting higher than two francs five sous, and yet the performances are often not by any means contemptible. They begin at half-past six.

M. Comte has a theatre in the Pa.s.sage Choiseul where children perform, which may be considered as a sort of nursery for the theatres in general; but what afford the most amus.e.m.e.nt are his extraordinary feats of legerdemain, which are certainly wonderfully clever. The prices are from about one franc to five francs.

Although I have left it to the last, I must not entirely omit to mention the Odeon theatre, to which I have already adverted; little can be judged from it at present, having only just re-opened. Mlle. George is endeavouring, in the eve of her days, to afford it the support of her now declining powers; she is however ably sustained by Achard. Vernet also is a good actor, and they have others who are by no means deficient. It begins at 7, and the prices are from 1 franc to 5.

In addition to those I have already stated, there are about a dozen more theatres, inducting such as are just outside the Barriers, and although theatrical speculations have generally been very unfortunate recently, yet it does not appear to arise so much from the want of audiences, but from paying the great performers too highly, and having too many of all descriptions. There are besides several public concerts, of which the one styled Muzard's, in the Rue Neuve-Vivienne, is the best; the price of entrance to most of them is 1 franc. Several public b.a.l.l.s are constantly going forward in gardens during the summer, and in large saloons in the winter; they are mostly attended by the lower order of tradespeople, or by females of indifferent character, except in the Carnival, and then more respectable characters go to the masked b.a.l.l.s at the theatres which are the most expensive; the ladies however only as spectators, generally speaking, but their attractions are too irresistible to many, for them to suffer the season to pa.s.s over without once joining the gay throng, particularly to some who have a great delight in mystifying a friend or acquaintance, and telling them a few home truths under the protecting s.h.i.+eld of a mask, having opportunities of so doing at the public b.a.l.l.s without fear of being recognised; whereas concealment at private masquerades can seldom be preserved to the last. It is most usual for ladies who visit the theatres to see the masked b.a.l.l.s only to remain in a box with their party, and from thence to view the motley group; there are however some females even of rank who cannot resist the charm of going entirely incognito, to puzzle and perplex different persons whom they know will be there, only confiding to one or two dearest friends their little enterprise, to whom they recount the adventures of the evening.

All strangers sojourning at Paris are generally directed to devote their earliest attention to the Gallery of Pictures at the Louvre, and I had intended to have bestowed much s.p.a.ce to that object, but I find such excellent works published on that subject at only one or two francs, that I would recommend my readers to furnish themselves with one and take it with them to the Louvre when they go there; they can procure them of M. Amyot, No. 6, Rue de la Paix, where they will also find almost every publication they are likely to require, and will meet with the utmost civility and attention. There are continually changes taking place in the arrangements of the pictures, consequently it would be impossible to give any correct numerical indications. The works of Rubens are particularly numerous, but I should not say they were the _chefs d'oeuvre_ of that great artist, the women are so fat and totally devoid of grace; I have seen several of his pictures in the great Collection at Vienna which I like much better. The Louvre may be also considered rich in the works of t.i.tian, some fine subjects by Guido, Murillo, Correggio, and Paul Veronese, of which the Marriage in Cana is supposed to be the largest detached picture in the world; and many of the figures are portraits, as of Francis I, Mary of England, etc., who were contemporaries with the artist; in fact there are some paintings of almost every celebrated Italian and Spanish master. The Dutch and Flemish school is extremely rich, particularly in Vandycks, but as might be expected specimens of the French school are the most numerous, the princ.i.p.al gems of which are by Claude Lorraine, Poussin, and Le Brun, infinitely superior to the productions of the present day.

There are besides many pictures by French artists of the time of David, Gerard, Gros, etc., which I consider generally inferior to some of those of their best painters now living.

There are several private collections that are well worth the attention of the visiter; amongst the number is that of Marshal Soult, consisting of some of the most exquisite Murillos, I should decidedly say the happiest efforts of his pencil, but I believe since I saw them he has sold some of the best to an English n.o.bleman. The gallery of M. Aguado (Marquis de Las Marismas), contains undoubtedly some very fine subjects of the Spanish school, and others that have considerable merit, but out of the great number of paintings which are a.s.sembled together the portion of copies is by no means small; still there is sufficient of that which is very good to afford great pleasure to the amateur. The residence of the Marquis was in the Rue Grange-Bateliere, and it is to be presumed that, notwithstanding his decease, the establishment will be kept up as before. The collection of the Marquis de Pastoret, in the Place de la Concorde, is well worth visiting if you have a good pair of legs and lungs, for I believe you have upwards of a hundred steps and stairs to mount; but an ample reward will be afforded in viewing some very clever small cabinet paintings by celebrated Italian, French and Flemish masters.

The Baron d'Espagnac has at his hotel in the Rue d'Aguesseau a selection of paintings which may be considered one of the most _recherchee_ in Paris; a landscape by Dominichino is quite a gem, and he has scarcely a painting in his numerous collection but must be admired; his copy of the Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci is perhaps the best that has ever been executed, and affords a most exact idea of the original, which is now, alas! nearly if not entirely defaced. To see these, as well as many other very excellent private collections, it is merely necessary to write to the owner and the request is immediately granted.

Mr. Rickets, an English gentleman living at No. 9, Rue Royale, has about 400 pictures, amongst which are some of considerable merit and particularly interesting, either for the execution, the subjects, or certain a.s.sociations connected with them; this selection presents a singular variety of styles, wherein may be recognised all the most celebrated schools; some of the smaller pictures are executed with the most exquisite delicacy and require long examination to form an adequate appreciation of their merit. This collection is only accessible through the medium of an introduction. As many purchasers of pictures often want them cleaned and restored, I would recommend them to a countryman for that purpose, M. Penley, No. 11, Rue Romford, whose efforts I have seen effect a complete resuscitation upon a dingy and almost incomprehensible subject.

CHAPTER XIV.

The concluding Chapter; application of capital, information for travellers, prices of provisions.

One of the first measures to be adopted on arriving in France, is to acquire the knowledge of the value of the coin, which is indeed rather intricate; first a sou, or what we should call a halfpenny, is four liards or five centimes; then there are two sou pieces, which resemble our penny pieces; there is likewise a little dingy looking copper coin, with an N upon one side and 10 centimes on the other, that is also two sous; they once had a little silver wash upon them, but it has now disappeared. Next there is a little piece which looks like a bad farthing, rather whitish from the silver not being quite worn away, which pa.s.ses for a sou and a half or six liards. We then rise to a quarter franc, or 5 sous, which is a very neat little silver coin; next the half franc, then a fifteen sous piece, which is copper washed over with silver, with a head of Louis on one side and a figure on the other; double the size but exactly similar is the 30 sous piece; the franc is 20 sous, the two francs 40 sous, both of which are neat silver coin, as also the 5 francs piece. The gold circulation consists in ten, twenty, and forty franc pieces. There are no notes in Paris for less than 500 francs, which are of the Bank of France; the visiter on arriving in Paris will require to change his English money, and there are many money changers; I have had transactions with most of them, but have found Madame Emerique, of No. 32, Palais-Royal, Galerie Montpensier, (there is an entrance also Rue Montpensier, No. 22,) the most liberal and just of any, and I am quite certain that any stranger might go there with a total ignorance of the value of the money he presented, and would receive the full amount according to the state of exchange at the time.

Much credit is due to Madame Emerique from our country-people with regard to her conduct respecting stolen Bank of England notes; she takes great pains to obtain a list of such as are stolen, that she may not be unconsciously accessary in aiding the success of crime, by giving the value for that which had been obtained by theft, and adopts every means that the presenters should be detained; if all the money changers were as particular in that respect, thieves would derive no benefit in coming over to France with their stolen notes. The office of Madame Emerique has been the longest established of any, and the high respectability of her family and connexions are a certain guarantee for the foreigner against being imposed upon. The number of hotels in Paris is immense; as I always frequent the same which I have known for nearly 20 years, of course I can recommend it, both as regards the extreme respectability of the persons by whom it is kept and the moderation of the charges; it is situated at No. 71, Rue Richelieu, and is called the Hotel de Valois, Baths abound in Paris, but the Bains Chinois, Boulevart des Italiens, are of the oldest date, and have been visited by the most ill.u.s.trious persons. Amongst the rest, the proprietor declares that William the Fourth attended them at the time he was sojourning incognito at Paris.

Amongst the numerous list of Bankers, those which are most frequented by the English are Madame Luc Callaghan and Son, No. 40, Rue de la Ferme-des-Mathurins; Monsieur le Baron Rothschild, Rue Laffitte, and Messrs. Laffitte, Blount and Comp., No. 52, Rue Ba.s.se-du-Rempart.

Amongst the mult.i.tude of interesting spots which surround Paris, Versailles is pre-eminent, not only for the grandeur of the palace, the beauty of the gardens, etc., but it has now received so many objects of art, and its collection of pictures is so immense, that it may be considered the Museum of France; but there are so many works written upon it, and its description must be so voluminous to render it any justice, that I must content myself with referring my readers to those publications which have already appeared on the subject. St. Cloud, St.

Germains, St. Denis and Fontainebleau are too remarkable to be lightly touched, particularly the two latter, upon which there are publications giving the most ample details of all which they contain that is interesting; those works therefore I must also recommend for the visiter's perusal.

Before I bid adieu to my readers, I must not omit to mention an inst.i.tution formed in Paris, which does honour to the English character; it is ent.i.tled the British Charitable Fund, and was founded in 1822, under the patronage of the British Amba.s.sador, and is entirely supported by voluntary contributions, for the purpose of relieving old and distressed British subjects, or of sending them to their native country; suffice it to say, that there have been within the last ten years 11,500 persons relieved, and 2,571 sent to Great Britain.

There are quite a host of steam-boat establishments, having their agents and offices in Paris, but that for which the agency has been confided to M. Chauteauneuf, No. 8, Boulevart Montmartre, embraces so wide a field that I consider in recommending my readers to him, I afford them the opportunity of obtaining all the information they can require upon the subject; the Company could not have selected any one more capable of fulfilling the duties of such an office, as besides his extreme civility and attention to all applicants, he speaks many different languages, as French, English, Spanish, Italian, etc. The boats for which he is agent proceed from Dunkirk to St. Petersburg, touching direct at Copenhagen, and privileged by the Emperor of Russia; the pa.s.sage is effected in 6 or 7 days. Dunkirk to Hamburg in 36 or 40 hours, corresponding with all the steamers on the Baltic and the Elbe. Dunkirk to Rotterdam in 10 or 12 hours, communicating with all the navigation upon the Rhine. Boulogne to London by the Commercial Steam Company. Antwerp to New York, touching at Southampton; Ma.r.s.eilles to Nice, Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Vecchia, Naples, Sicily, Malta and the Levant, by the steamers of the Neapolitan Company.

The above vessels are fitted up in the most efficient and solid manner, with English machinery. At Lyons there is a corresponding office for the navigation of the interior, held by Messrs. Jackson, Dufour, and Comp., No. 7, Quai St. Clair. M. Chateauneuf is very obliging in explaining all the details of the different tarifs of the custom duties of the various countries with which the steamers communicate.

A very great convenience exists in Paris, which I think much wanted in London, and that is what are termed Cabinets de Lecture, where you may read all the princ.i.p.al papers and periodical pamphlets for the small expense of 3 sous; some are higher, where English newspapers are taken, when the price is five sous; they are mostly circulating libraries at the same time. But those who wish to see all or the greater part of the London and some provincial and foreign papers, will find them at Galignani's, and at an English reading room established in the Rue Neuve St. Augustin, No. 55, near the Rue de la Paix; at both these establishments the admittance is ten sous. The only English newspaper at present published in Paris is by Galignani, which contains extracts judiciously selected from the French and English papers, besides other useful information.

The investment of capital in land in France will rarely produce more than 31/2 per cent and very frequently less; in the purchase of houses in Paris 5 or 51/2, sometimes 6, is obtained; in the funds about 41/2. Numbers of persons in France place their money on _hypotheque_, or mortgage, by which they make 5 per cent; the affair is arranged by means of a _notaire_, but often the most lucrative manner of placing money is what is called _en commandite_, that is, they invest a fixed sum in different descriptions of business, from which they receive a certain share, not appearing in the concern otherwise than having deposited a stated amount of money in it, for which alone, in case of bankruptcy, they are liable.

A considerable portion of the French lend their money to different tradespeople, getting the best security they can, sometimes merely personal; 6 per cent is the regular interest that is given, and it is a very rare case that the capital is lost, as the lender takes great precautions in ascertaining the exact state of the borrower's affairs.

Although rents are so immensely high in the centre of Paris, one house, No. 104, Rue Richelieu, letting for 120,000 francs, (4,800_l._) a year, yet as you diverge in any direction towards the walls of the city a house may be had for much less under the same circ.u.mstances than in London, and just outside a substantial dwelling of eight or ten rooms, with an acre of garden beautifully laid out, will only be 40_l._, a year.

Some of the villages round Paris are very agreeably situated, but are dreadfully cut up by the fortifications, particularly the favourite spot of the Parisians, the Bois de Boulogne, where many families amongst the tradespeople go and pa.s.s their whole Sunday under the trees; and the innumerable rides and walks through the wood, and its very picturesque appearance tempt all ranks at all hours of the day; part of it remains unspoiled by the walls and forts constructing for the defence of Paris, but it was much to be regretted that any portion should have been destroyed for an object, the utility of which still seems an enigma.

As prices of provisions are so constantly varying that I determined to leave them entirely to the last, that I might be enabled to give the latest information respecting them; in most instances they are much dearer than they were a few years since, particularly meat, which now may be quoted on an average of 8_d._ a pound, and veal, if the choice parts be selected, 1_d._ or even 2_d._ more at some seasons, but joints where there is much proportion of bone may be had for 7_d._; best wheaten bread is at present 13/4d., a pound; b.u.t.ter, best quality, _s._ 6_d._; cheese 10_d._ Poultry is much higher than formerly; a fine fowl 3_s._ a duck, 2_s._; a goose 4_s._; a turkey 6_s._ and much dearer at some periods of the year; pigeons' eggs 81/2_d._ each; a hare 4_s._; a rabbit 1_s._ 6_d._ Vegetables are generally pretty cheap, potatoes hardly 1/2_d._ a pound, cauliflowers, brocoli, and asparagus at a much less price than in London; the finer sorts of fruits, as peaches, nectarines, apricots, greengages, grapes, etc., are very reasonable, but on the whole Paris is very little cheaper than London; the princ.i.p.al difference is in the wine, which is to be had at all prices from 5_d._ to 5_s._ a bottle, but by arranging with the Maison Meunier, 22, Rue des Saints-Peres, the house I have recommended, by taking a certain quant.i.ty, very good Bordeaux may be had, which will only come to about 1_s._ 6_d._ a bottle. Fuel is the dearest article in Paris; coals, of which there is not much consumption, are considerably higher than in London, but yet much cheaper than burning wood. In the best part of Paris a well furnished sitting and bed room is 4_l._ a month; in other parts only half the price. Brandy and liqueurs are much cheaper than in England; beer from 2_d._ to 4_d._ a bottle, but taking a cask it comes cheaper. Best white sugar 10_d._ Tea from 4_s._ upwards, coffee 2_s._ to 3_s._ It must be remembered that the pound weight in France has two ounces more than in England.

There is one peculiarity the stranger should remark in Paris which will much a.s.sist him in finding a house he may be seeking; the even numbers are always on one side of a street and the odd on the other and in all the streets running south and north the numbers commence from the Seine, so that the farther you get from the river the higher the figure amounts; and, as you proceed from that source the even numbers will be found on the right side and the uneven on the left. Those streets which run east and west commence their numbers from the Hotel-de-Ville, or Town-Hall, the even numbers also being on the right hand side and uneven on the opposite.