An Autobiography Part 13

"_September 23rd._--Had a delightful evening, for we dined with the Empress Eugenie. I seemed to be basking in the 'Napoleonic Idea' as I sat at that table and saw my gla.s.s engraved with the Imperial 'N,' and was aware of the historical portraits of the Bonaparte Era that hung round the room. The Empress was full of bright conversation and chaff; and I find, as I see her oftener, that she has plenty of humour and enjoys a joke greatly. We didn't go in arm in arm, men and women, but _Sa Majeste_ signed to me and another woman to go in on either side of her. She called to Will to come and sit on her right. I was very happy and in my element. Oh! how the mind feels relieved and expanded in that atmosphere. We had music after dinner, and I had long talks on Egypt with the Empress, whose recollections of that bright land are particularly brilliant, she having been there during the jubilant ceremonies in connection with the opening of the Suez Ca.n.a.l. One year before the great calamities to her and her husband! She told me that just for a freak she walked several times in and out between the two pillars on the Piazzetta at Venice, that time, to brave Fate, who, it was said, punished those who dared to do this. 'Then _les evenements_ followed,' she added. Well might she say that life is an up and down existence. She waved her hand up and down, very high and very low, as she said it, with a very weary sigh. Her face is often very beautiful; those eyes drooping at the outer corners look particularly lovely as they are bent downwards, and her white hair is arranged most gracefully.

She is always in black.

"Will has accepted the extension of his command here to my great pleasure; the chief charm to us in this place is the neighbourhood of the Empress. That makes Farnborough unique. Not only is she so interesting, but now and then there are visitors at her house whose very names are sonorous memories. The other day as we came into her presence she went up to Will and asked him to let Prince Murat, Ney (Prince de la Moscowa) and Ma.s.sena (duc de Rivoli), see some of the regiments in his brigade at their barracks. When the inspection was over these three ill.u.s.trious Names came to lunch with us, and I sat between Murat and Ma.s.sena, with _le Brave des Braves_ opposite. What's in a name?

Everything, sometimes. I thought myself a very favoured creature last Sunday as I sat by Eugenie at her tea table and she sprinkled my m.u.f.fin with salt out of her little m.u.f.fineer. I am glad to know she likes me and she is very fond of Will. One Sunday she and I and the Marquise de Gallifet were sitting together, and the Empress was talking to the latter about 'The Roll Call,' p.r.o.nouncing the name in English, but Madame, who looked somewhat stony and unsympathetic, could not p.r.o.nounce the name when the Empress asked her to, and made a very funny thing out of it. The Empress tried to teach her, making fun of her attempts which became more and more comic, combined with her frigid expression. At last the Empress turned to me and asked me to show how it ought to be said in the proper way; but, as she had just given me an enormous chocolate cream, I was for the moment unable to p.r.o.nounce anything with this thing in my cheek, and she went into fits of laughter as I made several attempts to say the unfortunate name. So it was never p.r.o.nounced, and Madame la Marquise looked on as though she thought we were both rather childish, which made the Empress laugh the more. The least thing, if it is at all comical, sends her into one of her laughing fits which are very catching--except by Gallifets.

"Talking of camel riding (and they say she rode like a Bedouin in the desert) I sent her into another fit which brought the tears to her eyes by saying I always forgot '_quel bout de mon chameau se leve le premier_' at starting. But she sent me into one of my own particular fits the other day. I was telling her, in answer to her enquiry as to insuring pictures on sending them by sea, that I thought only their total loss would be paid for, and what the artist considered an injury of a grave nature amounting to total loss might not be so considered by the insurance company. 'And if,' she said, 'you have a portrait and a hole is made right through one of the eyes?' Here she slowly closed her left eye and looked at me stolidly with the right, to represent the injured effigy, 'would you not get compensation?' The one-eyed portrait continued to look at me out of the forlorn single eye with every vestige of expression gone, and I laughed so much that I begged her to become herself again, but she wouldn't, for a long time.

"There has been a great deal of pheasant shooting, particularly at the De Worms' at Henley Park, where a _chef_ at 500 a year has made that hospitable house very attractive; but there has been one shoot at Farnboro' made memorable by Franceschini Pietri distinguis.h.i.+ng himself with his erratic gunnery. Suddenly he was seen on a shutter, screaming, as the servants bore him to the house. Every one thought he was wounded, but it turned out he was sure he had hit somebody else, which happily wasn't true. People are shy of having him, after that, at their shoots, especially Baron de Worms, who showed me how he accoutred himself by padding and goggles, one day, bullet-proof against that excitable little southerner, who was a member of the party at Henley Park."

After one of the Empress's dinners at Farnboro' Hill, a small dinner of intimate friends, we had fun over a lottery which she had arranged, making everything go off in the most sprightly French way. What easy, pleasant society it was! One admired the courage which put on this brightness, though all knew that the dead weight on the poor heart was there, so that others should not feel depressed. Even with these kind semblances of cheeriness no one could be unmindful of the abiding sorrow in that woman's face.

"_January 9th, 1895._--The anniversary of the Emperor Napoleon's death come round again. There was quite a little stir during the service in the church. The catafalque, heaped up with flowers, was surrounded with scores of lighted tapers as it lay before the altar. A young priest, in a laced _cotta_, went up to it to set a leaf or flower or something in its place, when instantly one of his lace sleeves blazed. Almost simultaneously the General, in full uniform, springing up the altar steps without the smallest click of his sword, was at the priest's side, beating out the fire. Not another soul in that crowded place had seen anything. That was like Will! We laid wreaths on the tombs in the crypt."

An entry in March of that year records good progress with "The Dawn of Waterloo," and mentions that we had the honour of receiving the Empress Frederick and her hosts, the Connaughts, and their suites, who came to see the picture. I found the Empress still more like her mother than when I first saw her, when she and the Crown Prince Frederick dined at the Goschens'--a memorable dinner, when the fine, serious-looking and bearded Frederick told my husband he would desire nothing better for his sons than that they should follow in his footsteps. The Empress was beaming--that is exactly the word--and a few minutes after coming into the drawing-room she showed that she was anxious to get on to the studio, to save the light. So out we sallied, walking two and two, a formidable procession, and we were nearly half an hour in the little court-martial hut. They all had tea with us afterwards, quite filling the tiny drawing-room. The Empress was very small, and as she talked to me, looking up into my face, I thought her the most taking little woman I ever saw. She had what I call the "Victoria charm," which all her sisters shared with her--absolutely unstudied, homely, and exceedingly friendly. At least it so appeared to me in a high degree in her that day. But what a sorrow she had had to bear!

The picture was taken to the Club House, there to be shown for three days to the division before Sending-in Day. The idea was Will's, but I got the thanks--undeserved, as I had been reluctant to brave the dust on the wet paint. Crowds went to see it, from the generals down to the traditional last drummer.

I thought the Academicians were again unkind in the placing of my picture, and a trip to Paris was all the more welcome as a diversion, for there I was able to seek consolation in the treat of a plunge into the best art in the "City of Light." One interesting day in May found us at Malmaison, the country house of Napoleon and Josephine. There is always something mournful in a house no longer tenanted which once echoed the talk, the laughter, the comings and goings, the pleasant and arresting sounds of voices that are long silent. But _this_ house, of all houses! It was absolutely stripped of everything but Napoleon's billiard table, and the worm-eaten bookshelves in his little musty study the only "fixtures" left. The ceilings we found in holes; that garden, once so much admired and enjoyed, choked with dusty nettles. We went into every room--the one where poor derelict Josephine died; the guests'

bedrooms; the dining-room where Napoleon took his hurried meals; the library where he studied; the billiard-room, where he himself often took part in a game surrounded by "fair women and brave men" in the glitter of gorgeous uniforms and radiant _toilettes_. One lends one's mind's ear to the daily and nightly sounds outside--the clatter of horses' hoofs as the staff ride in and out of the courtyards with momentous despatches; the sharp words of command; the announcement of urgent arrivals demanding instant hearing. We found our minds revelling in suchlike imaginings. The chapel, the coach-houses, the great iron gates were all there, but seen as in a dream.

We were back at Aldershot on May 30th. "The Queen's Ball, at Buckingham Palace, brilliant as ever. The Shahzada, the Ameer of Afghanistan's son, was the guest of the evening, as it is our policy just now to do him particular honour, after having made his father 'sit up.' A pale, wretched-looking Oriental, bored to tears! The usual delightful medley of men of every nationality, civilised and semi-civilised, was there in full splendour, but the rush of that crowd for the supper-room, in the wake of royalty, was most unseemly. Every one got jammed, and it was most unpleasant to have steel cartridge boxes and sword hilts sticking into one's bare arms in the pressure. I think there was something wrong this time with the doors. I was much complimented that night on my 'Dawn of Waterloo,' but that was an inadequate salve to my wounded feelings.

"_June 15th._--A great review here in honour of the young Shahzada, who is being so highly honoured this season. I don't think I ever saw such a large staff as surrounded that pallid princeling as he rode on to the field. The whole thing was a long affair, and our bored visitor refreshed himself occasionally with consolatory snuff. The whole of the cavalry finished up, as usual, with a charge 'stem on,' and as the formidable onrush neared the weedy youth he began to turn his horse round, possibly suspecting deep-laid treachery."

My husband and I were present when Cardinals Vaughan and Logue laid the foundation stone of Westminster Cathedral. The luncheon that followed was enlivened by some excellent speeches, especially Cardinal Logue's, whose rich brogue rolled out some well-turned phrases.

A week later we were at dinner at Farnborough Hill. "There was a large house-party, including Princes Victor and Louis Napoleon, the elder a taciturn, shy, dark man about thirty-three, and the younger an alert, intelligent officer of thirty-one, who is a colonel in the Russian cavalry, and is the hope and darling of the Bonapartists. I call him Napoleon IV. Victor went in with the Empress to dinner and Louis with me, but on taking our seats the two brothers exchanged places, so that I sat on Victor's right. I had an uphill task to talk with the studious, silent Victor, and found my right-hand neighbour much more pleasant company, Sir Mackenzie Wallace. I had not caught his name and his accent was so perfect and his idioms and turns of speech so irreproachable that I never questioned his being a Frenchman. Away we went in the liveliest manner with our French till suddenly we lapsed into English, why I don't know. This gave the Empress her chance. She began chuckling behind her toothpick and asked me in French if he had a good accent in speaking English. 'Yes, madame, very good!' 'Ah? _really_ good?' (chuckle).

'Really good, madame.' 'Ah, that is well' (chuckle). I saw in Will's face I was being chaffed and guessed the truth. Much laughter, especially from Louis. He told Will, across the Empress, that he had seen an engraving of 'Scotland for Ever' in a shop window in Moscow, and had presented it to the mess of his own cavalry regiment, the Czar being now colonel of the Scots Greys, and that he little expected so soon to meet the painter of that picture. The dinner was very bright and sparkling, so unlike a purely English one. How gratefully Will and I conformed to the spirit of the thing. His Irish heart beats in harmony with it. I didn't quite recover from my _faux pas_ at table, and, on our taking leave, brought everything into line once more by wis.h.i.+ng Prince Louis '_Felicissima Sera!_' in a way denoting a bewilderment of mind amidst such a confusion of tongues. I left amidst applause.

"_July 8th._--There was a sham fight on the Fox Hills to-day to which the two French princes went. Will mounted Victor on steady 'Roly Poly,'

and sent H. on 'Heart of Oak' to attend on His Imperial Highness throughout the day. Louis was mounted by the Duke. My General loves to honour a Napoleon, so, when he was riding home with Louis after the fight, and the Guards were preparing to give the General the usual salute, he begged the Imperial Colonel to take the salute himself. 'But, General, I am not even in uniform!' answered Louis. 'One of your name, sir, is always in uniform,' was the ready reply. So Louis took it. On his way back to the Empress he stopped at our hut, and after a gla.s.s of iced claret cup on this grilling day, he looked at my sketches, and at the little oil picture I am painting for Miss S.--'Right Wheel!'--the Scots Greys at manuvres. I wonder if he has it in him to make a bid for the French Throne!

"_July 12th._--The Queen came down to-day, and there was a very fine display of the picked athletes of the army at the new gymnasium in the afternoon, before Her Majesty, who did not leave her carriage. She looked pleased and in great good humour. She gave a dinner to her generals in the evening at the Pavilion as she did last year. Will sat near her, and she kept nodding and smiling to him at intervals as he carried on a lively conversation with Princesses Louise and Beatrice.

Her Majesty expanded into full contentment when nine pipers, supplied by the three Highland Regiments of the Division, entered the room at the close of dinner in full blast. They tell me that each regiment jealously adhered to its own key for its skirls, or whatever the right word is, and so in three different keys did the pibrochs bray, but this detail was not particularly noticeable in the general hurly-burly. The Queen stood it well, though in that confined s.p.a.ce it must have tried her nerves. Give me the bagpipes on the mountain side or in the desert, where I have heard them and loved them.

"_July 13th._--At a very fine review for the Queen, who brought her usual weather with her. She looked well pleased, especially with the stirring light cavalry charge at the close, when Brabazon pulled up his line at full charging pace within about 12 yards (it seemed to me) of the royal carriage. Really, for a moment, I thought, as the dark ma.s.s of men and horses rolled towards us, that he had forgotten all about 'Halt!' It was a tremendous _tour de force_, and a bit of swagger on the part of this das.h.i.+ng hussar. That group of the Queen in her carriage, with the four white horses and scarlet coated servants; the Prince of Wales and the rest of the glittering Staff; Prince Victor Napoleon in civilian dress, his heavy face shaded by his tall black hat as he uneasily sat his excited horse; the other carriages resplendent in red and gold; the Empress's more sober equipage full of French _elegantes_, and the wave of dark hussars bursting in a cloud of dust almost in amongst the group, all the leaders of the charging squadrons with sabres flung up and heads thrown back--what a sight to please me! I feel a physical sensation of refreshment on such occasions. What discipline and training this performance showed! Had one horse got out of hand he might have flopped right into the Queen's lap. I saw one of the squadron leaders give a little s.h.i.+ver when all was over. On getting home I was doing something to the bearskins of my Scots Greys in 'Right Wheel,'

showing the way the wind blew the hair back, as I had just seen it at the review, while fresh in my mind, when a servant came to tell me Princess Louise was at the Hut. I had got into my painting dress with sleeves turned up for coolness. I ran in, changed in half a minute, and had a nice interview, the d.u.c.h.ess of Connaught being there also, and we had one of those 'shoppy' art talks which the d.u.c.h.ess of Argyll likes.

"_August 16th._--My 'At Home' day was made memorable by the appearance of the Empress Eugenie, who brought a remedy for little Eileen's cold.

It was a plaster, which she showed me how to use. I cannot say how touched we were by this act, so thoughtful and kind--that poor childless widow! She seems to have a particularly tender feeling for Eileen, indeed Mdlle. d'Allonville has told me so."

The rest of the Aldershot Diary is filled with military activities up to the date of the expiration of my husband's time there, and his appointment to the command of the South Eastern District with Dover Castle as our home. But between the two commands came an interlude filled with a tour through some parts of Italy I had not seen before, and a visit to the Villa Cyrnos at Cap Martin, whither the Empress had invited us.

CHAPTER XX

ITALY AGAIN

In January, 1896, we left Aldershot on a raw foggy day, with the usual winter brown-paper sky, the essence of dreariness, on leave for the land I love best. At Turin our train for Genoa was filled with poor young soldiers off to Abyssinia, the Italian Government having followed our example in the policy of "expansion"; with what success was soon seen.

An Italian told us that "good coffee" was to be had from there, amongst other desirable commodities. So the poor young conscripts were being sent to fetch the good coffee, etc. They were singing in a chorus of tenor voices as they went, after affectionately kissing the comrades who had come to see them off.

At sunrise we arrived at Naples, Vesuvius looking like a great amethyst, transparent in the golden haze from the sun which rose just behind it. I must say the Neapolitan population struck me as very wretched; the men were no better than the poor creatures one might see in Whitechapel any day, and dressed, like them, in shoddy clothing. The poor skeleton mules and horses were covered with picturesque bra.s.s-mounted harness instead of flesh, and I saw no red-sashed, brown-limbed _lazzaroni_ such as were supposed to dance _tarantelle_ on the sh.o.r.e. Certainly there is not much dancing and singing in their hungry-looking descendants.

January 17th was a memorable day, spent at Pompeii. One must see the place for oneself. Familiar with it though you may be through books and paintings, Pompeii takes you by surprise. The suddenness of that entrance into the City of the Dead _is_ a surprise to a newcomer, such as I was. To come into the city at once by the "Street of Tombs," which carries you steeply upwards into the interior--no turnstiles at the gate, no ticket collectors, no leave-your-umbrella-at-the-door; this natural way of entering gave me a strange sensation as if I were walking into the past. The present day was non-existent. Though we were three and a half hours circulating about those theatres, baths, villas, shops, through the narrow streets, with their deep ruts and stepping stones, I was so absorbed in the fascination of realising the life of those days that I never needed to rest for a moment, and the day had grown very hot. One rather drags oneself through a museum, but we were here under the sky, and Vesuvius, the author of this destruction, was there in very truth, looking down on us as we wandered through the remnants of his victim.

As to beauty of colour there is here a great feast for the painter. What could surpa.s.s, on a day like that, the simple beauty of those positive reds and yellows and blues of walls and pillars in that light, back-grounded by the tender blue of mountains delicately crested with the white of their snows? The positive strong foreground colours emphasised by the delicacy of the background! The absolute silence of the place was impressive and very welcome.

The Diary had better "carry on" here: "_Sunday, January 19th._--To Capri and Sorrento on our way to Amalfi. There is a string of names! I feel I can't p.r.o.nounce them to myself with adequate relish. To Ma.s.s at 8, and then at 9 by steamer to Capri, touching at Sorrento on our way. Three hours' pa.s.sage over a very dark blue sea, which was flecked with foam off Castellamare. Capri is all I expected, a ma.s.s of orange and lemon groves in its lower part, with wonderful crags soaring abruptly, in places, out of the clear green water. Tiberius's villa is perched on the edge of a fearful precipice that has memories connected with his cruelties which one tries to smother. Indeed, all around one, in those scenes of Nature's loveliness, the detestable doings of man against man are but too persistently obtruding themselves on the mind which is seeking only restful pleasure.

"We were driven to the Hotel Quisisana ('Here one gets well'), very high up on a steep ridge, where the village is, and were sorry to find our pleasure marred by being set down to _dejeuner_ with as repulsive a company of Teutons as one could see. The perspective of those feeding faces, along the edge of the table, tried me horribly. They say the Germans are outnumbering the British as tourists in Italy now. Nowhere do their loud voices and rude manners jar upon our sensibility so painfully as in Italy. The _Frau_ next to me actually sniffed at four bottles out of the cruet in succession, poking them into her nose before she satisfied herself that she had found the right sauce for her chop!

What's to be done with such people?

"We had not much time to give to the lovely island, for the little steamer had to take us to Sorrento at two o'clock. We put up there at the Hotel Tramontano, and had a stroll at sunset, with views of the coast and Vesuvius that spread out beyond the reach of my well-meaning, but inadequate, pen. I can't help the impulse of recording the things of beauty I have seen. It is owing to a wish to preserve such precious things in my memory, to waste nothing of them, and to record my grat.i.tude as well."

At Amalfi came the culmination to our long series of experiences of the Neapolitan Riviera. The names of Amalfi, Ravello, Salerno and Paestum will be with me to the end, in a halo of enchantment.

On returning to Naples, of course, we paid our respects to Vesuvius. Our climb to the highest point allowable of the erupting cone was not at all enchanting, and left my mind in a most perturbed condition. There was much food for meditation when our visit was over, but at the time one had only leisure to receive impressions, and very disconcerting impressions at that. A keen north wind blew the fumes from the crater straight down my throat as I panted upwards through the sulphur, ankle deep, and I could only think of my discomfort and probable collapse. I disdained a litter. I perceived several fat Germans in litters.

An even deeper impression was made on my mind than that produced by the eruption proper on our coming, after much staggering over cold lava, near a great, crawling river of liquid fire oozing out of the mountain's side. Above our heads the great maw of the crater was throwing up bursts of rock fragments with rumblings and growls from the cruel monster. I wonder when that wild beast will make its next pounce? And down there, far, far below, in the plain lay little Pompeii, its poor, tiny, insignificant victim! Yes, for a thoughtful climber there was more than the sulphurous north wind to make him pause.

The little funicular railway had brought us up to the foot of the cone, crunching laboriously over the shoulder of the mountain, and I could not but think--"If the chain broke?" At one point the open truck seemed to dangle over s.p.a.ce. We were sitting with our faces turned towards the sea and away from the cone, and (were we never to be rid of them?) two corpulent Teutons faced us, hideously conspicuous, as having apparently nothing but blue air behind them. There was no horizon at all to the sea, the pale haze merging sea and sky into one. Then, when we alighted, we found ourselves in a restaurant with Messrs. Cook & Co.'s waiters running about. Certainly it was no time for meditating or moralising in that medley of the prehistoric and the _fin de siecle_.

I found Rome very much changed after the lapse of all those years since I was there with our family during the last months of the Temporal Power. I shall never forget the shock I felt when, to lead off, on our arrival, I conducted my husband to the great bal.u.s.trade on the Pincian overlooking the city, promising him my favourite view. It was a truly striking one in the far-off days, and quite beautiful. Instead of the reposeful vineyards of the area facing us beyond the Tiber, fitting middle distance between us and St. Peter's, gaunt buildings bordering wide, straight, staring streets glistening with tramlines seemed to jeer at me in vulgar triumph, and I am not sure that I did not shed tears in private when we got back to our hotel. One fact, however, brought a sense of mental expansion as I surveyed that view, which should have made amends for the sensitive contraction of my artist's mind. That great basilica yonder was mine now! A return to Rome had another touch of sadness for me. Our father had been so happy there in introducing his girls to the city he loved. He seemed now to be ever by my side as the well-remembered haunts that were left unchanged were seen again. Leo XIII. was now Pope. On one particular occasion in the Sistine Chapel, at Ma.s.s, I was struck by the extraordinary effect of his white, utterly ethereal face and fragile figure as he stood at the altar, relieved against the background of Michael Angelo's exceedingly muscular "Last Judgment." And, now, what of this "Last Judgment"? The action of our Lord, splendidly rendered as giving the powerful realisation of the push which that heavy arm is giving in menace to the condemned souls towards the Abyss on His left (I had almost said the _shove!_), is realistic and strong. But what a gross conception! Our modern minds cannot be impressed by this fleshly rendering of such a subject, a rendering suitable to the coa.r.s.er fibre of the Middle Ages. I could positively hate this fresco, were I not lured, as a painter, to admire its technical power.

Our visit to the Empress at Cap Martin followed, on our way home to Aldershot. She received us with her usual genial grace. The place, of course, ideal, and the typical blue weather. We were made very much at home. Madame le Breton told me I was to wear a _table d'hote_ frock at dinner, and Pietri told Sir William a black tie to the evening suit was the order of the day.

"_February 13th._--The Villa Cyrnos is in a wood of stone pines, overhanging the sea on a promontory between Mentone and Monte Carlo. It is in the French Riviera style, all very white--no Italian fresco colouring. Plentiful striped awnings to keep off the intense sunlight.

Cool marble rooms, polished parquets, flowers in ma.s.ses--a sense of grateful freshness with reminders of the heat outside in the dancing reflections from the sea. Indeed, this is a charming retreat. Madame d'Arcos and her sister, Mrs. Vaughan, were there, who having just arrived from England, were full of accounts of the arrival of the remains of Prince Henry of Battenberg from Ashanti, and the funeral, at which Madame d'Arcos had represented the Empress. The different episodes were minutely described by her of this, the last act of the latest tragedy in our Royal Family. She had a sympathetic listener in the poor Empress.

"_February 14th._--A sunny day marred, to me, by a visit to Monte Carlo, where the gambling is in fullest activity. The Empress wanted us all to go for a little cruise in a yacht, but though the sea was calm enough I preferred _terra firma_, and her ladies drove me to Monte Carlo. Hateful place! The lovely mountains were radiant in the low suns.h.i.+ne of that afternoon and the sea sparkling with light, but a crowd of overdressed riff-raff was circulating about the casino and pigeon-shooting place, from which came the ceaseless crack of the cowardly, unsportsmanlike guns. I record, with loathing, one fellow I saw who came on the green, protected from the gentle air by a fur-lined coat which his valet took charge of while his master maimed his allotted number of clipped victims, and carefully replaced as soon as all the birds were down. A black dog ran out to fetch each fluttering thing as it fell. I was glad to see this hero was not an Englishman. Inside the casino the people were ma.s.sed round the gaming tables, the hard light from the circular openings above each table bringing into relief the ugly lines of their perspiring faces. The atmosphere was dusty and stifling, and the hands of these horribly absorbed people were black with clawing in their gains across the grimy green baize. I drank in the pure, cool air of the sunset loveliness outside when I got free, with a very certain persuasion that I would never pay a second visit, except under polite compulsion, to the gambling palace of Monte Carlo.

"_February 15th._--The Empress took us quite a long walk to see the corps of the '_Alpins_' at the Mentone barracks and back by the rocky paths along the sh.o.r.e. She is very active, and is looking beautiful.

"_Sunday, February 16th._--All of us to Ma.s.s at the little Mentone church. The dear Empress gave me a little holy picture during the service and said, 'I want you to keep this.' There is at times something very touching about her."

I sent a small picture this year to the "New Gallery," instead of the Academy, feeling still the effects of their unkindness in placing "The Dawn of Waterloo" where they did the preceding year.

CHAPTER XXI

THE DOVER COMMAND