Unexplored Spain Part 20

[Ill.u.s.tration: RED DEER HEADS, SIERRA MOReNA.

RISQUILLO.

Points 15, plus k.n.o.bs. Length 40-1/4 in.

MARMOLEJOS.

A Twenty-four Pointer.

FONTANAREJO.

Points 16. Length 32-1/2 in.

MONTES DE TOLEDO.

Points 14. Length 41.]

RECORD OF RED DEER HEADS--SIERRA MOReNA

+----------------+-------+---------------+--------+-------+---------------+ | | | |Circ.u.m- | | | | |Length | Widest. |ference | | | | |outside+------+--------+ above |Points.| Locality. | | |Curve. | Tips.| Inside.| Bez. | | | +----------------+-------+------+--------+--------+-------+---------------+ | | in. | in. | in. | in. | | | |J. M. Power |43 |35 | 33-1/2 | 5-1/2 | 6 + 6 |Lugar Nuevo. | |I. L. de Ybarra |41 |36-1/2| ... | ... | ... |Ballasteros, | | | | | | | | Montes | | | | | | | |de Toledo. | |E. Parlade |40-5/8 |40-1/2| 31-1/2 | 5-5/8 | 8 + 8 |Valdelagrana. | |Marq. Merito |40-1/4 |... | ... | 6 | 7 + 7 |Risquillos. | |Authors |40 |36-1/2| 32 | 5-1/4 | 9 + 8 |(_Wild Spain_.)| |Marq. Alventos |38-3/4 |33-1/2| 28-1/2 | 5-3/4 | 8 + 8 |Zamujar, Jaen. | |J. Calvo de Leon|38-3/4 |39-1/4| 33-1/4 | 6-1/4 | 7 + 7 |Mezquitillas. | | Do. |38-1/4 |38-3/4| ... | 6-1/2 | 8 + 7 | Do. | | Do. |38 |29-1/2| ... | 6-1/4 | 7 + 7 | Do. | | Do. |38 |33-1/2| ... | ... | 7 + 7 | Do. | |Authors ... |37-1/2 |34-1/2| 29-1/4 | 5 | 8 + 7 |(_Wild Spain_.)| |Marq. Merito |36-3/4 |... | 35 | 5-1/2 | 8 + 7 |Risquillos. | |J. Calvo, hijo |36-1/4 |... | 25-3/4 | ... | 7 + 7 |Mezquitillas. | |Authors |35 |32-1/2| 28 | 5-3/4 | 6 + 6 | Do. | | Do. |34-1/8 | (cast antler) | 5-3/4 | 8 + 0 |Sa. Quintana. | |J. M. Power |32 1/2 |... | ... | 5-1/2 | 8 + 8 |Fontanarejo. | +----------------+-------+------+--------+--------+-------+---------------+

CHAPTER XVI

PERNaLES

A country better adapted by nature for the success of the enterprising bandit cannot be conceived. The vast _despoblados_ = uninhabited wastes, with scant villages far isolated and lonely mountain-tracts where a single desperado commands the way and can hold-up a score of pa.s.sers-by, all lend themselves admirably to this peculiar form of industry. And up to quite recent years these natural advantages were exploited to the full. Riding through the sierras, one notes rude crosses and epitaphs inscribed on rocks recording the death of this or that wayfarer. Now travellers, as a rule, do not die natural deaths by the wayside; and an inspection of these silent memorials indicates that each occupies a site eminently adapted for a quiet murder. Fortunately, during the last year or two, the extension of the telegraph and linking-up of remote hamlets has aided authority practically to extinguish brigandage on the grander scale. Spain to-day can no longer claim a single artist of the Jack Sheppard or d.i.c.k Turpin type; not one heroic murderer such as Jose Maria (whose safe-conduct was more effective than that of his king), Vizco el Borje, Agua-Dulce, and other _ladrones en grande_ whose life-histories will be found outlined in _Wild Spain_.

The two first-named represent a type of manhood one cannot but admire--admire despite oneself and despite its inconvenience to civilisation. These were men ignorant of fear, who, though themselves gentle, were yet able, by sheer force of iron will, to command and control cut-throat gangs which set authority at defiance, and who subjected whole districts to their anarchical aims and orders. The outlaw-overlords ever acted on similar lines. Respecting human life as, in itself, valueless, they commandeered real value by an adroit combination of liberally subsidising the peasantry while yet terrorising all by the certainty of swift and merciless retribution should the least shade of treachery befall--or rather what to the brigand-crew represented treachery. Human life was otherwise safe. Two points in this connection demand mention. Besides direct robberies, the brigands battened upon a tribute exacted from landowners and paid as a ransom to s.h.i.+eld themselves and their tenants from molestation. Secondly, their safety and continued immunity from capture was largely due to that secret influence--quite undefinable, yet potent to this day--known as "Caciquismo." That influence was exerted on behalf of the outlaws as part of the ransom arrangement aforesaid.

Neither for robber-chieftains of the first water, such as these, nor for brigandage as a scientific business, is there any longer opportunity in modern Spain, any more than for a Robin Hood at home. Lesser lights of the road, footpads and casual _sequestradores_, will survive for a further s.p.a.ce in the wilder region; but the real romance of the industry ceased with the new century.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PERNALES]

Its first decade has nevertheless produced a brace of first-rate ruffians who, though in no sense to be compared with the old-time aristocracy of the craft, at least succeeded in setting at naught the civil power, and in pillaging and hara.s.sing rural Andalucia during more than two years.

The original pair were known as Pernales and El Vivillo, the latter a man of superior instincts and education, who, under former conditions, would doubtless have developed into the n.o.ble bandit. Vivillo on principle avoided bloodshed; not a single a.s.sa.s.sination is laid to his charge during a long career of crime. Pernales, on the contrary, revelled in revolting cruelties, and rated human life no higher than that of a rabbit. At first this repulsive ruffian, as hateful of aspect as of character,[31] acted as a sort of lieutenant to Vivillo, but the partners.h.i.+p was soon renounced by the latter consequent on a cowardly crime perpetrated by Pernales in the Sierra of Algamita. At a lonely farm lived an elderly couple, the husband an industrious, thrifty man, who had the reputation of being rich among his fellows. Their worldly possessions in actual fact consisted of some 2000 reales = 20. Pernales was not likely to overlook a h.o.a.rd so ill-protected, and one night in November 1906 insisted, at the muzzle of his gun, on the savings being handed over to him. A lad of fourteen, however, had witnessed the transaction, and on perceiving him (and fearing he might thus be denounced) Pernales plunged his knife in the boy's breast, killing him on the spot. Vivillo, on hearing of this insensate murder by his second, insisted on the rest.i.tution of their money to the aged pair, expelled Pernales from his gang, and threatened him with death should he dare again to cross his path.

Pernales now formed a fresh partners.h.i.+p with a desperado of similar calibre to himself, a soulless brute, known as the Nino de Arahal, whose acquaintance he had made at a village of that name. This pair, along with a gang of ruffians who acclaimed them as chiefs, were destined to achieve some of the worst deeds of violence in the whole annals of Spanish _Bandolerismo_. For two years they held half Andalucia in awe, terrorised by the ferocity of their methods and merciless disregard of life. None dared denounce them or impart to authority a word of information as to their whereabouts, even though it were known for certain--such was the dread of vengeance.

Innumerable were the skirmishes between the forces of the law and its outragers. An ill.u.s.trative incident occurred in March 1907. A pair of Civil Guards, riding up the Rio de los Almendros, district of Pruna, suddenly and by mere chance found themselves face to face with the men they "wanted." A challenge to halt and surrender was answered by instant fire, and the outlaws, wheeling about, clapped spurs to their horses and fled. Now for the Civil Guards as brave men and dutiful we have the utmost respect; but their marksmans.h.i.+p on this occasion proved utterly rotten, and an easy right-and-left was clean missed twice and thrice over! The fugitives, moreover, outrode pursuit, and the fact ill.u.s.trates their cool, calculating nonchalance, that so soon as they reckoned on having gained a forty-five minutes' advantage, the pair paid a quiet social call on a well-to-do farmer of Moron, enjoyed a gla.s.s of wine with their trembling host, and then (having some fifteen minutes in hand) rode forward. Now comes a point. On arrival of the pursuers, that farmer (though not a word had been said) denied all knowledge of his new-gone guests. Pursuit was abandoned.

For eight days the bandits lay low. Then Pernales presented himself at a farm in Ecija with a demand for 40, or in default the destruction of the live-stock. The bailiff (no farmer lives on his farm) despatched a messenger on his fleetest horse to bring in the ransom. As by the stipulated hour he had not returned, Pernales shot eight valuable mules!

Riding thence to La Coronela, a farm belonging to Antonio Fuentes, the bull-fighter, a similar message was despatched. Pending its reply our outlaws feasted on the best; but instead of bank-notes, a force of Civil Guards appeared on the scene. That made no difference. The terrified farm-hands swore that the bandits had ridden off in a given direction, and while the misled police hurried away on a wild-goose chase, our heroes finished their feast, and late at night (having loaded up everything portable of value) departed for their lair in the sierra.

During the next two months (May and June 1907) only minor outrages and robberies were committed, but that quiescence was enlivened by two feats that set out in relief the coolness and unflinching courage of these desperados. In May they moved to the neighbourhood of Cordoba, and among other raids pulled off a good haul in bank-notes, cash, and other valuables at Lucena, an estate of D. Antonio Moscoso, following this up by a report in their "Inspired Press" that the brigands had at last fled north-wards with the view of embarking for abroad at Santander! A few days later, however (May 31), they had the effrontery to appear in Cordoba itself at the opening of the Fair, but, being early recognised, promptly rode off into the impending Sierra Morena. On their heels followed the Civil Guard. Finding themselves overtaken, our friends faced round and opened fire, but the result was a defeat of the bandit gang. One, "El Nino de la Gloria," fell dead pierced by three bullets; two other scoundrels--Reverte and Pepino--were captured wounded, while in the melee the robbers abandoned four horses, a rifle, and a quant.i.ty of jewelry--the product of recent raids. Pernales himself and the rest of his crew escaped, and found shelter in the fastnesses of the Sierra Morena--thence returning to their favourite hunting-grounds nearer Seville.

Riding along the bye-ways of Marchena, disguised as rustic travellers, on June 2 they demanded at a remote farm a night's food and lodging.

Half-concealed knives and revolvers proved strong arguments in favour of obedience, and, despite suspicion and dislike, the bailiff acceded. This time the Civil Guard were on the track. At midnight they silently surrounded the house, communicated with the watchful bailiff, and ordered all doors to be locked. The turning of a heavy key, however, reached Pernales' ear. In a moment the miscreants were on the alert.

While one saddled-up the horses, the other unloosed a young farm mule, boldly led him across the courtyard to the one open doorway, and, administering some hearty lashes to the animal's ribs, set him off in full gallop into the outer darkness. The police, seeing what they concluded was an attempted escape, first opened fire, then started helter-skelter in pursuit of a riderless mule! The robbers meanwhile rode away at leisure.

Five days later, on June 7, both bandits attacked a _venta_, or country inn, near Los Santos, in Villafranca de los Barrios, carrying off 200 in cash, six mules, with other valuables, and leaving the owner for dead. This particular crime, for some reason or other, was more noised abroad than dozens of others equally atrocious, and orders were now issued jointly both by the _Ministro de Gobernacion_, the Captain-General of the district, and the Colonels commanding the Civil Guard throughout the whole of the hara.s.sed regions, that at all hazards the murderous pair must be taken at once, dead or alive. This peremptory mandate evolved unusual activities; the whole of the western sierra was reported blockaded. Pernales, nevertheless, receiving warning through innumerable spies of the police plans, succeeded in escaping from the province of Seville into that of Cordoba, where the pair pursued their career of crime, though now under conditions of increased hazard and difficulty. Sometimes for days together they lay low or contented themselves with petty felonies.

Then suddenly in a new district--that of Puente-Genil--burst out a fresh series of the most audacious outrages. Big sums of money, with alternative of instant death, were extorted from farmers and landowners. These exploits, together with an odd murder or two, spread consternation throughout the new area, and in all Puente-Genil, Pernales and the Nino de Arahal became a standing nightmare. So soon as checked here by the police, the robbers once more moved west, again "inspiring"

the press with reports of a foreign destination--this time via Cadiz. A few days later, Malaga was named as their intended exit. Yet on July 16 they were to the north of Seville, and had another rifle-duel with the Guards, again escaping scatheless at a gallop.

Persecution was now so keen that the wilds of the Sierra Morena afforded their only possible hope, and by holding the highest pa.s.ses the outlaws reached this refuge, being next reported at Venta de Cardenas, 160 miles north of Cordoba. A cordon of police was now drawn along the whole fringe of the sierra from Vizco del Marquez to Despenaperros. The position of the hunted couple became daily more precarious, their scope of activity more restricted, and robberies reduced to insignificant proportions. Nevertheless, on July 22, with consummate audacity and dash, they raided the farm of Recena belonging to D. Tomas Herrera, carrying off a sum of 160, with which they remained content till August 18, when they attacked the two farms of Vencesla and Los Villares, but, being repulsed, fled northwards towards Ciudad Real. On September 1 they entered the province of La Mancha, apparently seeking shelter in the deep defiles of the Sierra de Alcaraz, for that morning a Manchegan woodcutter was accosted by two mounted wayfarers who inquired the best track to Alcaraz. The woodman innocently gave directions which, if exactly followed, would much shorten the route. While thanking his informant, Pernales--apparently out of sheer bravado--revealed his ident.i.ty, introducing himself to the astonished woodcutter as the Fury who was keeping all authority on the jump and the country-side ablaze.

Straightway the man of the axe made for the nearest guard-station, and a captain with six mounted police, reinforced by peasants, followed the trail. As dusk fell the pursuers perceived two horses tethered in a densely wooded dell, while hard by their owners sat eating and drinking--the latter imprudence perhaps explaining why the brigands were at last caught napping. To the challenge "Alto a la Guardia Civil!" came the usual prompt response--the vibrant whistle of rifle-b.a.l.l.s. Pernales managed to empty the magazine of his repeater, killing one guard outright and wounding two more. Though himself hit, he yet stood erect, and was busy recharging his weapon when further shots brought him to earth. On seeing his chief go down the Nino de Arahal sprang to the saddle, but the opposing rifles were this time too many and too near.

The bandit, fatally wounded, was pitched to earth in death-throes, while the poor beast stumbled and fell in its stride a few paces beyond. An examination of the bodies showed that Pernales had been pierced by twenty-two b.a.l.l.s, his companion by ten.

CACIQUISMO

Doubtless the thought may have occurred to readers that some interpretation is necessary to explain how such events as these (extending over a series of years) are still possible in Spain--in a country fully equipped not only with elaborate legal codes bristling with stringent penalties both for crime and its abettors, but also with magistrates, judges, telegraphs, and an ample armed force, competent, loyal, and keen to enforce those laws. Without a.s.sistants and accomplices (call their aiders and abettors what you will) the Pernales and Vivillos of to-day could not survive for a week. The explanation lies in the existence of that inexplicable and apparently ineradicable power called Caciquismo--fortunately, we believe, on the decline, but still a force sufficient to paralyse the arm of the law and arrest the exercise of justice. Ranging from the lowest rungs of society, Caciquismo penetrates to the main-springs of political power. A secret understanding with combined action amongst the affiliated, it secures protection even to criminals with their hidden accomplices, provided that each and all yield blind obedience to their ruling Cacique, social and political. The Cacique stands above law; he is a law unto himself; he does or leaves undone, pays or leaves unpaid as may suit his convenience--conscience he has none. At his own sweet will he will charge personal expenses--say his gamekeepers' wages or the cost of a private roadway--to the neighbouring munic.i.p.ality. None dare object.

Caciquismo is no fault of the Spanish people; it is the disgrace of the Caciques, who, as men of education, should be ashamed of mean and underhand practices that recall, on a petty scale, those of the Tyrants of Syracuse. Should any of these sleek-faces read our book, they may be gratified to learn that no other civilised country produces parasites such as they.

Not a foreign student of the problems of social life in Spain with its conditions but has been brought to a full stop in the effort to diagnose or describe the secret sinister influence of Caciquismo. Our Spanish friends--detesting and despising the thing equally with ourselves--tell us that no foreigner has yet realised either its nature or its scope.

Certainly we make no such pretension, nor attempt to describe the thing itself--a thing scarce intelligible to Saxon lines of thought, a baneful influence devised to r.e.t.a.r.d the advance of modern ideas of freedom and justice, to benumb all moral yearnings for truth and honesty in public affairs and civil government. Caciquismo may roughly be defined as the negation and ant.i.thesis of patriotism; it sets the personal influence of one before the interest of all, sacrificing whole districts to the caprice of some soul-warped tyrant with no eyes to see.

A word in conclusion on Vivillo. Neither ignorance nor necessity impelled Joaquin Camargo, nicknamed El Vivillo (the Lively One), to embark, at the age of twenty-five, on a career of crime. Rather it was that spirit of knight-errantry, of reckless adventure, that centuries before had swept the Spanish Main, and that nowadays, in baser sort, thrives and is fostered by a false romance--as Diego Corrientes, the bandit, was reputed to be "run" by a d.u.c.h.ess, as the "Seven Lads of Ecija" terrorised under the aegis of exalted patronage, and Jose Maria, the murderer of the Sierra Morena, was extolled as a melodramatic hero by novelists all over Spain. On such lines young Camargo thought to gather fresh glories for himself. He early gained notoriety by a smart exploit in holding-up the diligence from Las Cabezas for Villa Martin just when the September Fair was proceeding at the latter place. The pa.s.sengers, mostly cattle-dealers, were relieved of bursting purses--no cheques pa.s.s current at Villa Martin--to the tune of 8000. After that, for several years, Vivillo ruled rural Andalucia, and his desperate deeds supplied the papers with startling head-lines. When pursuit became troublesome he embarked for Argentina, and soon his name was forgotten.

His retreat, however, was discovered, and Vivillo was brought back, landing at Cadiz February 19, 1908. Since that date he has lived in Seville prison--a man of high intelligence, of reputed wealth, and the father of two pretty daughters. For reasons unexplained (and into which we do not inquire) his trial never comes on. Vivillo keeps a stiff lip and enjoys ... nearly all he wants.

[Ill.u.s.tration: A SUMMER EVENING--SPARROW-OWLS (_Athene noctua_) AND MOTHS]

CHAPTER XVII

LA MANCHA

THE LAGOONS OF DAIMIEL

Immediately to the north of our "Home-Province" of Andalucia, but separated therefrom by the Sierra Morena, stretch away the uplands of La Mancha--the country of Don Quixote. The north-bound traveller, ascending through the rock-gorges of Despenaperros, thereat quits the mountains and enters on the Manchegan plateau. A more dreary waste, ugly and desolate, can scarce be imagined. Were testimony wanting to the compelling genius of Cervantes, in very truth La Mancha itself would yield it.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Yet it is wrong to describe La Mancha as barren. Rather its central highlands present a monotony of endless uninteresting cultivation.

League-long furrows traverse the landscape, running in parallel lines to utmost horizon, or weary the eye by radiating from the focal point as spokes in a wheel. But never a break or a bush relieves one's sight, never a hedge or a hill, not a pool, stream, or tree in a long day's journey. Oh, it is distressing, wherever seen--in Old World or New--that everlasting cultivation on the flat. True, it produces the necessary fruits of the earth--here (to wit) corn and wine.

Farther north, where the Toledan mountains loom blue over the western horizon, La Mancha refuses to produce anything.