Unexplored Spain Part 33

The case of the Spanish trout as it stands to-day is summed up in the following letter, dated April 1910, from our friend Capt. F. J.

Mitch.e.l.l:--

I have tried a great many of the best rivers in northern Spain, and have come to the conclusion that for angling purposes they have been hopelessly ruined--by dynamite, cloruro, lime, coca, and various other things. There may be deep pools here and there where fish have escaped, but they are very few. If your book is not finished you can put this in, as it is accurate, and may save many a disappointment to the free fisherman.

Farther south, in Leon and northern Estremadura, are also rivers of first-rate character. The Alagon, for example, with its tributaries, is well adapted for trout--das.h.i.+ng streams with alternate stretches of pool and rapid. These still hold trout in their head-waters among the mountains; but lower down the speckled beauties are well-nigh extirpated.

In this region one frequently observes, not without surprise, evidence of the introduction and acclimatisation of exotic products by old-time Moors--often in most outlandish nooks, wherever their keen eyes had spotted some fertile patch: probably, ere this, that energetic race would have preserved and cultivated the trout! The success of such enterprise in New Zealand and South Africa (it is even promising to succeed under the Equator in B.E. Africa), and indeed in Spain itself (at Algeciras), attests how easily these Iberian waters might be endowed with a new interest and a new value.

Such, however, is existent apathy that, although the local natives (N.

Estremadura) were aware of the presence of fish in their rivers, and told us that some ran to 10 or 12 lbs. in weight (these were barbel), yet they knew no distinctive names for the various species. All fish, big or little, were merely _pesces--Muy buenas pesces_. None could describe them, whether as to appearance or habit, nor did they know whether some species were migratory or otherwise.

The only angling we have seen practised in this province was at Trujillo, where in some lakes adjoining that old-world city _Tencas_ (we presume tench) up to 5 or 6 lbs. are taken with bait.

(2) SALMON

To such an extent used these to abound in Asturian streams that maid-servants stipulated on entering domestic service that they should not be given salmon more than twice a week. At the present day the pollution of rivers by coal-mining and other impurities has in some cases banished the salmon entirely, in others greatly reduced their numbers. There yet remain, nevertheless, rivers in Asturias (such as the Deva and Cares) where salmon abound, and where numbers are still caught--chiefly by net, though rod-fis.h.i.+ng is gradually extending its popularity, "owing to the glorious emotions it excites."

A local method deserves a word of description. In the crystal-clear waters of N. Spain salmon are regularly captured by expert divers. Its exact position having been marked, the diver, swimming warily up from behind, slips a running noose over the salmon's head. The noose draws tight as the fish begins to run; an attached line is then hauled upon by a second fisherman on the bank.

The Marquis de Villaviciosa de Asturias writes us:--

It is a common practice with the fishermen to dive and capture salmon in their arms (_a brazo_). My grandfather, the Marquis de Camposagrado, caught twelve thus in a single morning in the river Nalon in Asturias.

(3) BEAR-HUNTING IN ASTURIAS

To the same n.o.bleman (one of the first sportsmen of Spain) we are indebted for the following note:--

As regards the chase of the bear in Asturias, where I have killed four, I may say that it commences in September, at which period the bears are in the habit of descending nightly from the higher mountain-forests to the lower ground in order to raid the maize-fields in the valleys. Expert trackers, sent out at daybreak, spoor the bear right up to whichever covert he may have entered, and from which no further tracks emerge beyond.

The locality at which the animal has laid up being thus ascertained, a _monteria_ (mountain-drive) is organised--the beaters being provided with crackers, empty tins, hunting-horns, and every sort of ear-splitting engine--even the services of the bagpiper[52] are requisitioned!

Three or four guns are usually required, and are posted along the line where the bear is most likely to break--such as where the forest runs out to a point; or where it is narrowed by some projecting spur of precipitous rocks; or a deep valley where the covert is flanked by a mountain-torrent that restricts and defines the probable line of escape.

The bear (which is in the habit of attacking and destroying much cattle) comes cras.h.i.+ng through the brushwood, breaking down all obstacles, and giving ample notice by the noise of his advance. If wounded he will attack the aggressor; but otherwise bears only become dangerous when they have young or are hurt in some way. The picturesque nature of these mountain-forests lends a further fascination to the chase of the bear in Asturias. From twenty to thirty bears are killed here every year.

The following quaint paragraphs we extract from Spanish newspapers:--

FIGHT WITH A BEAR.--In the mountains of the Province of Lerida (Catalonia) a bear last week attacked and overpowered a muleteer, intending to devour him. A shepherd who happened to be in the neighbourhood, though at some little distance, witnessed the occurrence. Hastening with his utmost speed to the spot, he threw himself between the bear and its victim; and after a prolonged and strenuous combat (_lucha larga y esforzada_), the shepherd succeeded with his lance (_garrocha_) in killing the savage beast (_fiera_).

In his grat.i.tude, the muleteer desired to present the shepherd with the best horse of his cavalcade, but this the latter declined.--_November 24, 1907._

INCURSION OF A BEAR.--In the outskirts of the village of Paramo in the Province of Oviedo (Asturias) there has within the last few days made its presence felt an immense bear which continued to execute terrible destruction among the cattle belonging to the villagers. Fortunately the parish-priest, who is an expert shot, succeeded in killing the depredator. It weighed 140 kilograms (= 300 lbs.).--_April 25, 1908._ [Two others are recorded to weigh 400 and 440 lbs.]

CHASE OF A SHE-BEAR--SANTANDeR, _February 1909_. From Molledo an a.s.semblage of the local peasantry, mustered for the purpose, and bearing every kind of weapon, sallied forth, to give battle to a bear which for some weeks had been working havoc among their flocks and herds. After traversing the mountains in all directions without result, they were already returning, dead-beat and disappointed, towards their village, when they suddenly descried the bear standing in the entrance to a cave. On observing the presence of hunters, the animal disappeared within. A shepherd named Melchor Martinez at once followed, penetrating the interior of the cavern which extends far into the mountain-side. Presently on indistinctly perceiving (_divisando_) the beast, Melchor gave it a shot--flying out himself with hair all standing on end (_encrespados_) at the roaring of the wild beast (_fiera_). Melchor, nevertheless, at once entered the den again and fired a second shot--jumping out immediately thereafter. After a short interval, the roars of the _fiera_ within having ceased, the hunters in a body entered the cavern and found an enormous she-bear lying dead, together with four young, alive, which they carried away.

(Bravo, Melchor Martinez!)

(4) GAME-BIRDS OF CANTABRIA

Alike in its game-denizens with other physical features, Cantabria is differentiated from the rest of Spain, approximating rather to a north-European similitude. Thus the capercaillie is spread along the whole Biscayan range though nowhere numerous, and in appearance less so than in fact, owing to the density of these mountain-forests.

During our long but fruitless rambles after bear we raised but four; that, however, was in spring when these birds are apt to lie close.

In the Pyrenees (where the capercaillie is known as _Gallo de Bosque_) a certain number are shot every winter along with roebuck and pig in mountain-drives (_monterias_); but in the Asturias the pursuit of the _Gallo de Monte_ is effected (as in Austria and northern Europe) during its courting-season in May. The system is well known. The opportunity occurs at dusk and dawn, the stalker advancing while the lovelorn male sings a frenzied epithalamium, halting instantly when the bird becomes silent.

Ptarmigan are found in the Pyrenees, but seem to extend no farther west than the Province of Navarre, which area also coincides roughly with the southern distribution of the hazel-grouse (_Tetrao bonasia_) though we had some suspicion (not since confirmed) that the latter may extend into Asturias.

Our common grey partridge, unknown in S. Spain, occurs all along the Cantabrian highlands up to, but not beyond, the Cordillera de Leon. Here it descends to the foothills in winter, but is never found on the plains.

A bird peculiar to this region, though not game, deserves remark, the great black woodp.e.c.k.e.r, a subarctic species which we have observed in the Picos de Europa.

ANGLING IN RIVER AND SEA[53]

Nearly all the Spanish rivers when they leave the sierras and dawdle through the plains degenerate into sluggish mud-charged streams; but most of them are well stocked with barbel, which may be caught by methods similar to those in vogue on the Thames, _i.e._ by float-fis.h.i.+ng or ledgering with fine but strong tackle, as the first rush of a barbel is worthy of a trout. These fish average about one pound in weight, but in favourable spots, such as mill-tails, run up to 10 lbs. and upwards.

The Spanish barbel has developed one trait in advance of its English cousins, for it will rise to a fly, or at least to a gra.s.shopper. Owing to the abundance of these insects and of crickets along the river-banks in summer, the barbel have acquired a taste for such delicacies, and a hot June afternoon in Andalucia may be worse spent than in "dapping"

beneath the trees that fringe the banks of Guadalete and similar rivers.

The _Boga_, a little fish of the roach or dace family, seldom exceeding a quarter pound, will afford amus.e.m.e.nt in all the smaller trout-streams of Spain and Portugal when trout are recusant. The _boga_ is lured with a worm-tail (on finest gut and smallest hook) from each little run or cascade, whence five or six dozens may be extracted in an afternoon.

The Grey Mullet (Spanish, _Lisa_) is a good sporting fish ranging from half a pound up to four pounds weight, and caught readily in tidal rivers as it comes up from sea on the flood. Native anglers are often very successful, using long roach-poles and gear similar to that of the roach-fisher at home. The bait is either lugworm or paste, and on favouring days as many as two dozen mullet are landed during the run of the flood-tide.

The Shad (Spanish, _Sabalo_), though not only the handsomest but also the best-eating of all tidal-river fish, is of no concern to the angler, since it refuses to look at lure of any kind.

The Tunny (Spanish, _Atun_) frequents the south-Spanish coasts and comes in millions to the mouths of the big rivers (especially the Guadalquivir) to sp.a.w.n. The usual method of capture is by a huge fixed net called the _almadrava_, extending three miles out to sea, and placed at such an angle to the coast-line that the fish, on striking it, follow along to the insh.o.r.e end, where they enter a _corral_ or enclosed s.p.a.ce about an acre in extent. Here the fis.h.i.+ng-boats lie waiting, and when as many as 500 huge tunnies (they average 300 lbs. apiece) are enclosed at once, a scene of wild excitement and bloodshed ensues, the great fish darting and splas.h.i.+ng around their prison, sending spray flying mast-high, while the fishermen yell and gaff and harpoon by turns.

The most successful _almadrava_ is situate at Rota, some seven miles south of the mouth of Guadalquivir, the average catch for the season (May 1 till August 1) being about 20,000 tunnies. A canning factory stands on the sh.o.r.e hard by, where the fish are boiled, potted, and s.h.i.+pped to Italy, whence (the tins being labelled "Italian Tunny") they are exported to all parts of the world! The flesh resembles veal, and is much appreciated in South America.

ROD-FIs.h.i.+NG FOR TUNNY

At this period, when the tunny go to sp.a.w.n (exclusively larger fish), they travel, as the Spaniards say, with their mouths shut, and nothing will induce them to look at a bait. There occurs, however, in winter (November to February) another "run" of smaller fish averaging 50 to 150 lbs. apiece, and these are amenable to temptation. Tarifa, in the Straits of Gibraltar, is a favourable point from which to attempt this sport. The system is to cruise about in a falucho, or sailing-boat, carrying a plentiful supply of sardines, mackerel, and other small fish to serve as bait. These, on arrival at likely waters, are thrown overboard one by one till at length they attract a roving tunny. The operation is repeated till the quarry is enticed close up to the vessel.

A similar fish, impaled on a two-inch hook, is then offered him, dangling on the surface, and will probably be seized. The tunny on finding himself held, makes off in a bee-line at a mile a minute.

Needless to say, the strongest tackle must be used, together with some hundreds of yards of line, and the fight will be severe and prolonged, for the tunny is one of the swiftest and most active of fish, and he weighs as much as an average man. Few amateurs have hitherto attempted this sport; but as large numbers of tunny are caught thus by professional fishermen with extremely coa.r.s.e hand-lines, there seems to be no reason why "big-game fis.h.i.+ng" in Spain, if scientifically pursued, might not rival that of California.

The Bonito is another fine game-fish which may be caught at sunrise at nearly any point on the Andalucian sea-board by trolling with a white fly.

CHAPTER x.x.x

THE SIERRA NEVaDA