A Tour throughout South Wales and Monmouthshire Part 12

CHAP. XXIII.

GOODRICH CASTLE AND PRIORY-WILTON CASTLE-SCENERY OF THE WYE FROM ROSS TO MONMOUTH-ROSS-GLOUCESTER.

We took our farewel leave of Monmouth on a hazy morning, that concealed the surrounding scenery in the earliest part of our ride to Gloucester.

But the mist gradually withdrawing allowed us a gleam of the majestic Wye, about two miles from Monmouth; which, soon deserting the course of the road, winds beneath the bare rocky cliffs of the little Doward, and becomes lost among high wooded hills. Near the seven-miles stone from Monmouth we struck off the turnpike into an embowered lane in search of GOODRICH CASTLE, a very picturesque ruin, which rises among tufted trees on a bold eminence above the Wye. The view of the castellated hill, combined with a grand fertile valley, which extends for many miles in a richly-variegated undulation, enlivened with the elegant though simple spire of Ross church, and with peculiar graces, watered by the copious river, was uncommonly striking: while to the right we caught a glimpse of the grand features about Symonds-gate and the Caldwell rocks, backed by a range of heathy hills that forms the boundary of the forest of Dean.

[Picture: Goodrich Castle]

The remains of this castle shew it to have been of considerable strength, though not very extensive. Its figure is nearly square, measuring fifty-two yards by forty-eight, with a large round tower at each angle.

A deep trench, twenty yards wide, is cut in the rock round the walls, leaving a narrow ridge which crosses the moat to the grand entrance. On entering the gateway, a small apartment to the left, with an ornamented Gothic window, and a stone chalice for holding holy-water, appears to have been the chapel; or, considering its small size, rather an oratory.

A curious octagon column rising from a ma.s.s of ruins opposite has belonged to a princ.i.p.al apartment, and most probably the baronial hall.

A large square tower was the keep, which is said to have been built by an Irish chieftain named Mackbeth, as a ransom for himself and his son, who were held prisoners in the castle; and until lately two ponderous helmets were shewn as belonging to them, one of which held half a bushel.

There is no doubt but that this was a frontier post held by the Saxons; and many parts of the ruin still bear a Saxon or early Norman character.

{349} During the reign of king John, and in several succeeding ages, it was in the hands of the earls of Pembroke, but afterwards deviated from that line. In Jacob's Peerage, under the article of the earls of Shrewsbury, it is related, that the Hugh le Despencers forcibly seized Elizabeth Comyns at Kennington in Surry, and detained her in confinement above a year; concealing her in their different castles, until she was, by menaces of death, constrained to pa.s.s "her manor of Painswick in the county of Gloucester to the said earl, the elder Despencer, and the castle of Goodrich to Hugh the younger; to them and their heirs."-Thus it was in feudal ages, when every potent baron dared violate the strongest bands of society; when the property and freedom of humble individuals, and the honour of females, were subjected to the will of contiguous power; and suffering innocence could only plead the wrongs that she suffered at the tribunal of the oppressor. But, alas! it is a principle of our being, it is a fact which ought to be treasured in the minds of Britons, that where power is without controul it seldom fails to act unjustly.

In the civil wars of Charles the First this castle was in the hands of both parties successively; and upon the parliamentary cause proving triumphant, it was ordered to be dismantled: but a sufficient compensation was allowed to the countess of Kent, to whom it belonged.

The farm-house appertaining to the meadows and corn-fields about the castle is situated a few hundred yards from the castle, to the right, and occupies the site of GOODRICH PRIORY: the chapel, converted into a barn, and some other Gothic remains, are still visible.

In our way from Goodrich to Ross, for the first two miles traced in a bridle road that might with equal propriety be called a ditch, we had frequent views of the proud ruin towering above its incircling groves; which, variously combining with the surrounding landscape at each succeeding station, proved a new and delightful object. We crossed the Wye at Wilton bridge; a short distance above which, on the low western bank of the river, appear the mouldering towers of WILTON CASTLE, a Norman structure, once the baronial residence of the Greys. Several pleasure-boats with awnings, handsomely fitted up for the reception of company that would navigate the Wye, are moored by the bridge. {351}

I earnestly advise every traveller of taste and leisure, proceeding by the way of Ross to Monmouth, not to neglect the beautiful scenery of this river: he may take one of the boats; or, if he prefer riding or walking, he may enjoy its princ.i.p.al charms by reversing my journey from Goodrich; whence crossing Hensham ferry, he will proceed among pleasant meadows on the margin of the stream in front of the sublime grandeur of the Caldwell rocks; then ascending the isthmus of an immense peninsulated rock called Symond's gate, at the height of 2000 feet above the surface of the river, he will enjoy a superlative prospect of its mazy extent and the grand scenery around. From the vicinity of Goodrich the Wye urges its course through a narrow valley inclosed by towering woody mountains, or struggles in more limited confines, where protruding rocks plunge their naked perpendicular sides into the body of the stream. Descending from the lofty neck of the peninsula, which is but six hundred yards across in a direct line, although the circuit of the river round the rock is upwards of four miles, he will find himself in a deep valley of astonis.h.i.+ng grandeur, formed on one side by the romantic precipices of the peninsula, and on the other by the great Doward, a huge stratified limestone mountain, studded with lime-kilns and cottages. At the New-wier he will re-cross the river, and soon join the turnpike to Monmouth.

The old town of ROSS, situated on the gently-inclining bank of the Wye near Wilton bridge, afforded us no subject of admiration or interest, except in the recollection which it excited of Mr. John Kyrle, whose public spirit and philanthropy inspired the verses of Pope. We baited our horses at an inn which was formerly his house, and now bears the sign of "The Man of Ross." The views from the cemetery of Ross church are among the most beautiful that imagination can picture, looking over a lovely value, adorned with the majestic meanders of the Wye, enriched with numerous groves and woods, and finished by a distance of Welch mountains: to detail its several charming features would be as tedious, as it would prove a vain attempt to realize a just idea of the landscape.

We now traversed a well-cultivated district, whose numerous though gentle hills were frequently clothed with apple-orchards, and in about six miles ride, upon a wretched road, gained a heathy eminence, when the great plain of Gloucester appeared before us, stretching to an immense distance in every direction. At the extremity of the plain, at least in appearance, rose the towers and spires of Gloucester, faintly relieving from the Cotteswold hills, whose high continuous summits were strongly contrasted by the broken form of the Malvern hills afar off on the left.

The Severn, near GLOUCESTER, separates into two channels; which, soon re-uniting, inclose a tract of land called the Isle of Alney; so that we approached the city over two bridges connected together by a high causeway near a mile in length, which traverses the islet. An a.s.semblage of s.h.i.+ps, houses, and numerous spires, greeted us with a look of more public importance than we had been used to for several weeks, as we drew near the city. It would require a volume to give an adequate description of this place: all that my limits will allow me to say is, that it is one of the fairest cities in England, regularly composed of four princ.i.p.al wide well-built streets, meeting at right angles in the middle of the town; abounding with Gothic churches and other public structures, and a new-built gaol, which is one of the best in the kingdom. But its chief ornament is its truly grand cathedral, remarkable for its elegant tower, surmounted with four transparent pinnacles of the most exquisite workmans.h.i.+p, and for having the largest Gothic window in Britain: nor is it less to be noticed for the curious ramifications and transomes of its fretted roof, and the high state of enrichment throughout the structure.

{355} We ascended to the summit of the tower, where

"The bursting prospect spreads immense around: And, s.n.a.t.c.h'd o'er hill and dale, and wood and lawn, And verdant fields, and dark'ning heath between, And villages embosom'd soft in trees, And spiry towns by surging columns mark'd Of household make, your eye excursive roams To where the broken landscape, by degrees Ascending, roughens into rigid hills; O'er which the Cambrian mountains, like far clouds That skirt the blue horizon, dusky rise."

A tributary sigh escaped as we caught the last gleam of our much-loved princ.i.p.ality; nor can I conclude my subject without transmitting that view of the Welch individual character and state of society (particularly alluding to the southern district), which impressed me during my tour, and which I have since believed to be just.

Wales may be considered as exhibiting almost the sole remnant of "the good old times" existing in Britain. Separated from those causes of extrinsic splendour which domineer over other parts of our island, the opulent landholders freely dispense the wealth of their inheritance with unostentatious liberality. Indifferent to outward shew, their first cares evince a parental regard to the poor on their domains, and the maintenance of their forefathers' good cheer. An interchange of good offices is alike conspicuous between them and the commonalty; and it is no less pleasing to see the friendly solicitude of the one, than the unaffected respect and attachment of the other.

The Welch are justly described to be the most robust and hardy inhabitants of this kingdom; for, unenervated by those sedentary employments foisted on less happy regions by luxury and avaricious policy, they boast the vigorous frames of aboriginal Britons. Although not generally tall, they possess a more unequivocal criterion of strength, in a fine breath of chest; and hence it has been remarked, that a Cambrian regiment drawn up in line covers more ground than any other.

By healthful toil and simplicity of diet invigorated, they are at once potent, courageous, animated, and generous.

It has been a.s.serted, that the Welch are averse from strangers;-but by whom? By those who have provoked that aversion; who, carrying with them a vulgar estimation of superior show at the tables of England, have not known how to approve a regular board of hospitality, when contrasted by the splendid profusion of fas.h.i.+onable entertainments; who, representing the more gay appointments of other resorts, have pitied the Welchman's old-fas.h.i.+oned furniture, and wondered how any gentlemanly being could exist in his gloomy Gothic habitation. Such as can conceive no other travelling enjoyments than superior inns, sumptuous dinners, and bowling-green roads, may quarrel with our princ.i.p.ality. But it is for those who travel with more enlarged views, and proper introductions, to declare the ingenuous welcome that they have experienced: the eager solicitude that was every where manifested to afford them information; and the liberal fare set before them, which not even the greatly-increased expence of family establishments could effectually suppress.

As every virtue has its concomitant shade, we have to lament that the Welchman's ardent spirit sometimes inclines him to be quarrelsome; yet, as there is generosity at the bottom, his pa.s.sion seldom becomes vindictive. A disposition for social enjoyment has led him from conviviality to habits of intemperance; and an improvident hospitality, to the ruin of his family's fortune. An error more harmless in its operation arises from his admiration of ill.u.s.trious ancestry; which often resolves itself into an a.s.sociation of personal importance, that unbia.s.sed individuals are not inclined to allow. These asperities are wearing away, under the attrition of a more extended and enlightened intercourse. But it is the heartfelt wish of an earnest admirer of their present state of society, equal to every essential duty of a manly people, that the chilling apathy of morbid refinement may never paralize their spirit of independence, that spring of energetic action which forms the n.o.blest attribute of Man.

THE END.

NICHOLS _and_ SON, _Printers_, _Red-Lion-Pa.s.sage_, _Fleet-Street_.

Footnotes.

{0} The errata has been applied in this eText.-DP.

{6} The Saxons at this period are supposed to have occupied Monmouth, Chepstow, Caerwent, and Caerleon.

{7} Mr. Pennant.

{9} The common appellation of this mode, _Gothic_, is equally improper with the preceding, as the reign of the Goths was at an end long before its introduction: indeed its origin is wrapped in obscurity. Sir Christopher Wren, and after him many architects and antiquaries, have attributed it to the Saracens, and hence called it Saracenic; but their grounds are very questionable. Perhaps the homely conjecture, that it arose from the pointed form in the intersecting Saxon arches, may be as near the truth as one derived from more laborious researches; indeed, from the specimens of early Gothic which I have seen, I am of opinion, that cogent reasons may be adduced, to prove it rather to be of natural growth from the Saxon modes, and formed in its characteristics by gradual alteration, than a new system of remote and detached origins.

{11} An iron grate, with spikes at the bottom, which was let down after the gate was forced.

{12} Several years ago, when I first set about castle-hunting, I endeavoured in vain to discover a relation between what I saw, and the description with a figure of an ancient castle, laid down in Grose's Antiquities, and copied by others. I have since seen the greater part of the princ.i.p.al ruins in South-Britain; and the only castles that occur to me as approaching to that gentleman's plan, are those of Dover and London. I mention this, because persons building a theory on the authorities above-mentioned, might, among ruins, be puzzled, to no purpose, for a practical ill.u.s.tration.

{21} The practice of whitening their dwellings, in Wales, is very general, and of long standing. David ap Gwillim, a bard of the 14th century, thus notices it in his invocation to Summer: "With sun-s.h.i.+ne morn gladden thou the place, and greet the whitened houses."

{22} Of the numerous vessels that sail from Bristol to Swansea, not one is fitted for pa.s.sengers, and it was our misfortune to enter the worst in the service: we afterwards learned, that two superior vessels, Dimond and Hawkins masters, afford very tolerable accommodation. The sailing of these might be learned from a correspondence at Bristol, and a pleasant conveyance obtained,-at least for men.

{29} The cromlech is certainly a relic of the Druidical age. It is variously contended to have been a place of wors.h.i.+p, a sepulchral monument, and an altar for sacrifice. The latter opinion appears to me best supported; nor can I look on a cromlech without adverting to those horrid rites wherein human victims were immolated by Druid-craft to excite the terrors of superst.i.tion.

{62} See the Introduction, Section 3.

{67} A Description of England and Wales, Vol. VII.

{71} The sh.o.r.es of Milford-haven abound with lime-stone; which, affording a rich manure (with coals and culm), is conveyed by water over a great portion of the country. In the sh.o.r.es of the haven also, near its junction with the open sea, are many veins of copper ore, some of which are conjectured to be very rich; but none have been explored with perseverance.

{72} Lord Kensington described to me a very picturesque ruin called Benton cattle, situated upon the borders of Milford-haven near the arm of Lawrenny. This ruin I had not an opportunity of seeing, nor do I remember having read of it in any of the descriptions of Wales.

{73} I asked one of these young women, with the utmost seriousness and civility, at least with all that I was master of, what they made use of to render their teeth so uncommonly white; when the arch hussy waggishly replied, "Only a little nice white sand, and a scrubbing-brush, Sir."

{81} From Haverfordwest, a turnpike road extends to Caermarthen, 33 miles distant. About nine miles from Haverford, and one to the left of the road, is Lawhaden castle, picturesquely seated on a bold eminence, overlooking an extensive country. This castle was the princ.i.p.al seat of the Bishops of St. David's; but in the year 1616 Bishop Milborne obtained leave to dismantle it, the lead and other expensive materials having been purloined by his holy predecessors. Narbeth, a small irregular town built on a hill about 11 miles on the road, has some inconsiderable ruins of a castle erected by Sir Andrew Perrot, whose ancestor came over at the Conquest. The road, pawing through St. Clare, a pleasing village, continues onward without any particular attraction.

{84} Aber, in Welch, signifies the mouth of a river: hence Abertivy, Aberystwith, &c.

{85} Powell, in his History of Wales, says, that it was rebuilt before the year 1176; when Rhys, Prince of South Wales, made therein a great entertainment at Christmas, at which were present many hundreds of the English, Norman, and Irish n.o.bility. Among other things for their entertainment, he caused all the bards throughout Wales to come thither; and seating them round the hall, they had to contend with each other in rhyme: such as excelled, were promised great rewards and rich presents.

The North Wales bards were acknowledged victors in poetry, and Prince Rhys's own servants the ablest musicians.

{91} The equilibrium is now destroyed.

{92} See p. 29.

{94} Camden says, it often holds its tail between its teeth, to render its springs more immediate.