The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume II Part 13

The City of BRUSSELS is not populous, in Proportion to its Bigness, nor is the Town itself so pleasant as its Out-parts. The Houses are generally old, and it may be said, that excepting the Churches, and the Town-house, there is not a Structure worth the Mention. One very great Inconvenience of _Brussels_, is its irregular Situation, which is all up-hill and down-hill; so that if it was as large as _Paris_, it might truly be called the h.e.l.l of Horses: And another very great Nuisance is the little Care taken of the Streets, where one is always bespatter'd with Dirt, or choak'd with Dust.

The Palace which was burnt, was an old Edifice, with commodious Apartments, but irregular. Its Ruins, which are still to be seen, look like those of the Palace of _Priam_: Why they are not removed, I know not.

The Archd.u.c.h.ess, Governess of the _Netherlands_, lives in the Palace of _Orange_, belonging to the Prince of _Na.s.sau_, the Hereditary Stadtholder of _Friesland_. She has not much Room there, but her most Serene Highness prefers it to the Palace of _Egmont_, the Apartments of which are more s.p.a.cious and commodious, tho' 'twas offered her by the Duke _d'Aremberg_, who is the Proprietor of it.

This Princess had like to have perished in the Flames of the Palace, which was set on Fire by the Indiscretion of the Confectioners, who were preparing Sweetmeats for a Ball, which the Archd.u.c.h.ess intended to give the next Day. The Fire caught the Sugar, and spread into the Confectionary. The Officers thought they should be able to suppress it without any Noise, but it mastered them. 'Twas four Hours, however, before it alarmed the Palace; and in the mean time, they say, a great Part of the Building, and of its Furniture, might have been saved, if the Burghers had been permitted to have given their a.s.sistance: But for fear of Confusion, and of the Embezzlement of Goods, which generally happens in such Calamities, the Gates of the Palace were kept shut a long Time, and the Soldiers pushed off such Burghers as offered to come near, so that the whole was consumed. The Archd.u.c.h.ess was saved, as it were, by a Miracle; for a little Dog that lay with her, scratching her Face, awaked her, when she perceived the Smoke, and called out to her Women. At the same Instant, her Guards broke open the Door, so that she had only time to slip on a Gown, and one Stocking. The Floor was quite burnt, and fell in, the Moment that she was gone out of her Chamber. She made a s.h.i.+ft to save her Dog, and that was all. Her most Serene Highness went instantly to Prayers in her Chapel; but the Flames spreading to that Sanctuary, she was obliged to retire to the House of the Prince _de Rubempre_, her Master of the Horse, whose House fronted her Palace, and which, from thence, she saw consumed to the Ground, with all its Treasure; but nothing seemed to give her so much Pain, as the Misfortune of her Domestics, and the Danger to which they were exposed. But even here the Archd.u.c.h.ess could not be safe; for _Rubempre's_ House was so near her own, that 'twas fear'd the Fire would have reach'd it; so that she was obliged to retire to the Palace of _Orange_, then occupied by the Count _de Visconti_, the Grand Master of her Houshold, and her First Minister. The Princess _de Rubempre_ furnished her with Stockings, and the Countess _de Visconti_, with s.h.i.+fts and other Apparel; and 'twas in these borrowed Cloaths, that a Daughter, descended from so many Emperors, did, next Day, receive the Compliments of all the n.o.bility. Her Wardrobe was quite destroyed, and nothing saved but the Plate.

Every body agrees, that the Archd.u.c.h.ess preserved an extraordinary Serenity of Mind, under so great a Misfortune. She was continually encouraging some, and comforting others. The only Thing that heartily grieved her, was the unhappy Fate of Mademoiselle _d'Uhlefeldt_, Lady of the Golden Key, whose Mother was one of the Ladies of Honour. This unfortunate young Lady, thinking her Mother still asleep, was caught by the Flames as she was running to her Apartment to awake her. She was s.n.a.t.c.h'd as soon as possible out of the Flames, but was all over parched from Head to Foot, and died the next Day, after having received the Sacraments of the Church, and the Farewels of her Mother; with a Constancy the more to be admired, because she was very young, very dear to her Mother, and on the Point of making a very advantageous Settlement. The whole Court was charm'd, to see with what Resignation she bore her Misfortune. She said several times, that she died with Pleasure, since G.o.d had saved the Archd.u.c.h.ess and her Mother. Her most Serene Highness honoured her with her Tears, and caused a magnificent Funeral to be performed for her, in the Church of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits; at which all the n.o.bility of _Brussels_ was present, and every Soul was sorry for the Loss of her.

In searching among the Ruins of the Palace, most of the Archd.u.c.h.ess's Jewels were found again, and only some Ear-pendants of great Value, and a Gold Toilet, were missing.

The Archd.u.c.h.ess is the eldest of the Emperor's three Sisters. She is jolly, but dances nimbly and gracefully. The Princess has a n.o.ble and majestic Aspect. She appears to be extremely grave, and talks little, but with Dignity; and she is Mistress of several Languages. When she came into the _Netherlands_, as she parted thro' _Louvain_, she returned an Answer in _Latin_, to the Deputies of the University, who harangued her in that Language. She is Mistress of History, Geography, and many other fine Sciences; and without flattering her, she may be said to be a Mirror of Virtue and Piety. 'Tis impossible for any one living to be more charitable; and she does not know what it is to refuse Access to the Unfortunate. She wishes it were in her Power to serve all that ask Favour at her Hands, and is very much perplexed when she is obliged to give a Denial. That Portion of the Day, which she does not devote to G.o.d, she bestows upon Business, to which she gives very great Application: And her most Serene Highness is so easy of Access, that 'tis no manner of Difficulty to obtain an Audience of her.

The same Honours are paid to her here, as are paid to the Emperor at _Vienna_. She always eats alone, and for most part in Public. Her Ladies wait on her at Table. She lends a gracious Ear to those that speak to her, and returns the kindest Answers. She was never known to express the least Disgust with any of her Domestics.

Her Second in Affairs is the Count _Don Julio Visconti_, by Birth a _Milanese_, a Person of Honour, and of a good Family, a Man of Integrity and Sincerity, impossible to be bya.s.s'd by any thing but Justice, a good conomist, and always disinterested. Tho' the People of this Country are not the most ready to speak well of their Governors or Superiors, they all agree, that M. _de Visconti_ is a Minister not to be corrupted. He is pretty tall, and has a grave stern Countenance. He has such a Weight of Affairs upon his Hands, that he cannot always give the like Attention to every thing, but refers many Things to his Secretary, _Henry Crumpipen_ by Birth a _Westphalian_, who was born with all the Talents for Business. He is good-natur'd, civil, courteous, ready to do Kindnesses, has an extraordinary Memory, and is a Man of a singular Application. He is universally beloved here, and every one allows, that he is as uncorrupt as his Master.

M. _de Visconti_ is lately appointed Viceroy of _Naples_, and is to be relieved here by the Count _Frederik de Harrach_; who is not only a Person of a great Family, but has a very amiable Temper, and the Carriage of a Person of Quality. He was at _Cambray_ during the Congress, where, tho' he had not the Character of Amba.s.sador, he was let into all Affairs, the Emperor's Plenipotentiaries being ordered to communicate every thing to him. After that, he was sent as a Minister to take care of the Emperor's Affairs at the Court of _Turin_, From thence he was recalled, and sent Amba.s.sador from his Imperial Majesty, as King of _Bohemia_, and first Secular Elector, to the Diet of _Ratisbon_; which Post he is quitting, in order to come hither, to be Prime Minister to the most Serene Archd.u.c.h.ess.

I make no doubt but he will be acceptable to the _Flemings_; for he is affable and engaging, active, laborious, generous and liberal, and loves Expence and Pleasures. As he has a Fortune of his own, and another by his Wife, who is a Princess of _Lichtenstein_, he is in a Condition to please the People of[82]_Brussels_, who expect their Ministers, _&c._ to lay out a great deal of Money with 'em; and therefore daily regret the Loss of _Maximilian Emanuel_ the Elector of _Bavaria_, because that Prince expended seven or eight Millions with them every Year, which he drew from _Bavaria_. _The Archd.u.c.h.ess_, say the People of _Brussels, spends nothing, and her Court is rather a Convent_; yet if they considered that this Princess has but four hundred and sixty, or at most, but five hundred thousand Florins Revenue, they would, no doubt, be more sparing in their Reflection. With this Sum, which is a Trifle for so great a Princess, her most Serene Highness maintains a very large Houshold, pays everybody well, and keeps out of every body's Debt; which is what can't be said of any Governor or Sovereign of the _Netherlands_, who always went away from these Provinces in Debt. The Inhabitants have been accustomed to make Complaints Time out of Mind, and I believe, if the Question was put to every single Native of _Brabant_ or _Flanders_, there would be very few that could tell what sort of Government they would have, and what Master would suit them best: For, since the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, they have been under four several Dominions, and have had eight or nine Governors, who have all given them Cause to murmur. The only one that ever had their Applause, was the Marshal Count _de Daun_, now Governor of _Milan_, which, perhaps, was as much owing to his succeeding the Marquis _de Prie_, whose Recal every body desired, as to the advantageous Alterations he made in the Government.

The Court of _Brussels_ is really not the most inviting Court in the World. The Ceremonial at _Vienna_ is observed here almost in every thing.

The Archd.u.c.h.ess is served like the Empress, and n.o.body has the Privilege of eating with her; only the Duke of _Lorain_ was indulg'd that Liberty, but 'twas at one of the Hunting Seats, and then the Ladies attended him as they did the Archd.u.c.h.ess. When the Elector of _Bavaria_ came hither with the Princes his Brothers, in their Return from _France_, he said _'Twas very comical, that he who lay every Night with an_ Archd.u.c.h.ess _at_ Munich, _could not have the Pleasure of dining with an_ Archd.u.c.h.ess _at_ Brussels.

The Ladies of this Country, who have t.i.tles, of whom there are many whose Husbands are Grandees of _Spain_, insisted, at first, on the Privilege of being seated on a Stool in the Presence of her most Serene Highness; but they were disappointed in their Claim; and notwithstanding they urged, that the other Governesses of the _Netherlands_ had granted them this Distinction, they were answered, That those other Governesses were not Sisters of the Emperor; and that if they were such, they did not keep to the Ceremonial of the Court of _Vienna_, where all Ladies, Princesses as well as others, stand in Presence of the Archd.u.c.h.esses. Others claim'd the Privilege to come to the Palace in a Coach and Six, and some have actually presumed to drive in with such Equipage: But the Guards, who are better instructed in the Ceremonial than such Ladies, sent them back again, and told them, That it was not proper for any but her most Serene Highness, to come with six Horses. The Ladies turned back, not a little mortified; and for some time took it in such Dudgeon, that they would not appear at Court; but when they saw that n.o.body regarded their Pouting, and were apprehensive of an Order from _Vienna_, they came to Court again, and now do as they ought.

The n.o.bility and Gentry of this Country are extremely haughty. There are some Families which are really of very great Quality, but a great many, who, tho' they have very pompous t.i.tles, would be very much at a Loss to prove their n.o.ble Parentage. If you would take their Word for it, they were all heretofore Counts of _Hainault_, _Flanders_, Dukes of _Brabant_, _Guelderland_, and so on. Their Ancestors have performed important Services to the State, but most of them are now retired, or if they serve, it is in _Spain_ or _France_. _To go to_ Vienna, _to make Court to the Emperor! oh fy!_ say they, _'tis fatiguing to Death. The Manners of the Germans are so different_, proceed they, _from ours; their Service is so unpolite! To be confined in that Place called_ Hungary! _don't mention it to us. There's not a Mortal to converse with_. These Gentlemen, after all, have Reason on their Side: For many of 'em, tho' they have never served the Emperor, and perhaps, never seen him, have been preferred to Regiments, Governments, and the most distinguished Employments in the _Netherlands_; and as they have had such good Success, they would be to blame to act otherwise. They serve in _Spain_, and come to _Brussels_ to receive their Reward.

It must be owned, nevertheless, that tho' few of the _Flemings_, under whom I generally include all the Subjects of the _Austrian Netherlands_, go to _Vienna_, 'tis partly owing to the Narrowness of their Fortunes. The n.o.bility, being not rich, are not able to lay out much Money; and they live therefore with very great conomy, like private People. They seldom make Invitations to Dinner, and not one of 'em keeps an open Table. Yet there are more Equipages here with the Ducal Mantle, than in _Vienna_ itself. All those Dukes and Princes, made by the Kings of _Spain_, formerly a.s.sumed only the t.i.tle of _Excellency_; but since they have been under the _German_ Government, they are called _my Prince_, and _Monsieur_. They would fain usurp the t.i.tle of _Highnesses_, which is given them by their Domestics, and many poor Gentlemen, who interlard it with abundance of _Monseigneurs_. The Duke _d'Aremberg_ is the only n.o.bleman who supports the Expence of a Man of Quality; and tho' he is the Person to whom most Honour is due, yet he is one that least requires it.

_Brussels_ is a great Sufferer by the frequent Absence of the Prince of _la Tour_ and _Taxis_, Hereditary Post-master of the Empire, and the _Netherlands_. When this n.o.bleman is at _Brussels_, he lives with very great Splendor and Magnificence. His House is open to all Men of Quality, and 'tis the Asylum of Foreigners. The Princess _de la Tour_, who is a Princess of _Lobkowitz_, is wonderfully civil; and by her n.o.ble and gracious Deportment, and her agreeable Conversation, attracts all persons of Merit; and all Foreigners are charmed with her[83]. The Natives have a Regard for the Family of _la Tour_, but 'tis attended with Envy. The Prince _de la Tour_, tho' not a Sovereign, is n.o.bly ally'd. His Mother was a _Furstenberg_: His Wife is a _Lobkowitz_: His Son is married to a Princess of _Brandenbourg-Culmbach_; and his Daughter to the Prince _Alexander_ of _Wurtemberg_: So that all who question the Antiquity or n.o.bility of the Family of _la Tour_, are, I think, very much in the wrong.

I will not dispute that there are Families more ancient, tho' those of _la Tour_ have printed several Volumes in Folio, to prove the great Antiquity of their Origin, as well as their Descent from the _Torres_, who were so long at Variance with the ancient _Viscontis_. And I can't help thinking, that a Family, which has been ally'd for many Generations with the greatest in the Empire, and whose Son has been a [84]Canon or Count of the Cathedral of _Cologn_, may be rank'd among our best Families in _Germany_.

Of all the Ladies, the Princess _de la Tour_ is most distinguished by the Archd.u.c.h.ess; for which the other Ladies envy her, but this is very natural: For the Princess _de la Tour_ was born at _Vienna_, and, as it were, brought up with the Archd.u.c.h.ess; and Friends.h.i.+ps so early contracted are generally the most lasting. Besides, the Princess _de la Tour_ discovers such an Attachment to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, that 'tis not surprising that she should honour her with her Confidence.

I have told you, that the Pleasures of the Court of _Brussels_ are not very gay, and I'll a.s.sure you those of the City are much of the same dull Taste. There's a very fine Theatre here, but the Comedy acted on it is horrible. The a.s.semblies here are very melancholy, and will be more so when the Countess _de Visconti_ is gone, since, were it not for that Lady, there would be no such Pleasures here. Whoever saw _Brussels_ in the Time of the War, and sees it now, scarce knows the Place again. Every thing falls to decay, and it has hardly any Trade stirring, but in Lace, Camblets and Tapestry; the Fabric of which is, indeed, brought to very great Perfection. _Lenir_'s Manufacture of Tapestry excels all the rest for the Beauty of its Colours, and he furnishes _England_ and _Italy_ with it. _Devos_, who works for _Germany_, made the fine Tapestry of Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_, and the History of _Charles_ V. for the Emperor _Charles_ VI. _Vermillon_ sends a great many of his Works to _Portugal_, _France_, and _Muscovy_. _Van der Borg_ the Son has lately made a fine Piece of Tapestry for the Archd.u.c.h.ess, representing the _Israelites_ wors.h.i.+pping the Golden Calf, and _Moses_ receiving the Tables of the Law.

The Father of _Van der Borg_, who is as good a Workman as the Son, has made magnificent Tapestries for the Chamber of the States, which represent the joyful Entry of _Philip the Fair_, Duke of _Brabant_. They are in the Town-house, and worth seeing.

Here lives the Marshal _de Zumjungen_, who commands the Emperor's Troops in this Country. He is a Person of very great Merit, and has been raised by his Valour and Services to the chief Military Employments[85]. He is descended of an ancient _Patrician_ Family of _Francfort_, and professes the _Lutheran_ Religion. He was at first but a common Soldier, and has gone thro' all the Degrees of Preferment. He is a General of very great Experience, and is very well beloved by the Officers. He makes Foreigners very welcome, and lives very handsomely, without being at extraordinary Expence.

The Governor of _Brussels_ is the Marshal _de Wrangel_, a venerable old Man, and much respected. He is a _Sweed_, and, like M. _de Zumjungen_, has gone thro' all the Military Employments from a Dragoon. He is not very rich, but lives handsomely upon what he has, and always keeps a very good Table.

The Prince _de Rubempre_ is of the Family of _Merode_, one of the most distinguished in the _Netherlands_. He is Master of the Horse to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, and Knight of the Golden Fleece, a very courteous n.o.bleman, and one of the richest in the _Low Countries_.

The Prince of _Na.s.sau_ is Captain of her most Serene Highness's Band of Pensioners, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is the younger Brother of the Prince of _Na.s.sau-Siegen_, who, after the Death of _William_ III. King of _Great Britain_, a.s.sumed the t.i.tle of Prince of _Orange_; which he still goes by in _Spain_, where he is a Pensioner to the King. The Prince of _Na.s.sau_, of whom I here make mention, was also formerly in the Service of _Spain_. He married the Sister of the Marquis _de Nesle_ in _France_, and went some Years ago into the Service of the Emperor, who made him one of his Lieutenant-Generals. I make no Doubt but his Birth, and the a.s.siduous Application he gives to the Office which he holds under the Archd.u.c.h.ess, will soon procure him the Honour of the Golden Fleece.

I shall set out in a few Days to make the Tour of _Flanders_, a Country so well known, and of which you have heard so often from Officers, who are continually going and coming to it, that I think, I need not confirm to you what you know of it already. Therefore, only expect a superficial Account of it. You shall hear from me by the next Post. Mean time, I have the Honour to be, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XLV.

_SIR_, _Liege, June 28, 1732._

From _Brussels_ I went to GHENT, the Capital City of the County of _Flanders_, and a Bishop.r.i.c.k, suffragan to the Archbishop of _Mechlin_.

The _Scheld_ pa.s.ses thro' the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided into several Islands by the _Lys_, and a great Number of Ca.n.a.ls. 'Tis very large in Circ.u.mference, insomuch, that 'tis reported, the Emperor _Charles_ V. us'd to say, _That he could put_ Paris _into his_ Gand[86].

This might be true enough then, but now _Ghent_ might easily be contained in _Paris_, because, like all the Towns in the _Netherlands_, it is decay'd, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The Citizens of _Ghent_ were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most notable Revolt they ever made, was from _Charles_ V. for which they were severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he pa.s.sed through _France_ to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused twenty-five of the princ.i.p.al Burghers to be put to Death, banished a greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a Citadel; by which Means _Ghent_ became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.

The Fortifications of _Ghent_ consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp, broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place: Nevertheless, I have heard that King _William_ of _England_, used to say, that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep _Ghent_ than _Brussels_.

I have done nothing at _Ghent_ but sauntered about the Streets. I have been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron _de Stein_, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of _Portugal_, a Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle _de Watteville_, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, Governess of the _Netherlands_. She is a Lady worthy to be respected, and is esteemed by all _Ghent_. What Amus.e.m.e.nts there are in this Town, I cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no Pleasures here but what must be insipid.

I went in the Bark along the Ca.n.a.l from _Ghent_ to _Bruges_, which is the most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a good Room, and with Company very happily mix'd. At Noon we had a Dinner served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at _Brussels_; where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. 'Tis a Rule in this Bark, for the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of Women on Board; and the _Flemish_ Women are, for most part, good Topers of the Juice of the Grape.

BRUGES in the County of _Flanders_ stands in a great Plain, three Leagues from the Sea, upon the Ca.n.a.l of _Reye_; which being divided into several navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Ca.n.a.l goes to _Ostend_, which is but three Leagues off, and carries s.h.i.+ps to _Bruges_ of four hundred Tons. 'Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho' 'tis considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at _Antwerp_, and in _Holland_; notwithstanding which, _Bruges_ is still one of the biggest and best Cities in _Flanders_. Here are magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and open, with several large Squares, and there's no want of Inhabitants; but they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. 'Tis a hard matter for a Foreigner to get acquainted with 'em; for the _Flemings_ are naturally unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a _German_. When the Count _de Lalaing_, formerly the Viscount of _Audenarde_, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at _Brussels_. And, as I don't care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately to OSTEND.

This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three Months, again _Albert_ Archduke of _Austria_; and for the _India_ Company established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all _Europe_, however, agreed to get revoked. _Ostend_ never was a Town of much Note for Pleasures. 'Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable that belongs to the Emperor in _Flanders_. Its Situation renders it very strong: 'Tis encompa.s.s'd with two very deep Ca.n.a.ls, has eight Bulwarks, and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due Repair. If the _Ostend_ Company had continued, this would certainly have been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For _Holland_ and _England_ swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the _Netherlands_.

NEWPORT, to which I went by the Ca.n.a.l, is infinitely worse than _Ostend_.

'Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify'd, and can lay the Country under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a Degree, that there's never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to do with their Time.

As I left _Newport_, I returned to _Ghent_, and went to COURTRAY, over one of the finest Causeys, with Trees on both Sides, that is in all _Flanders_. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in Holland, and damask'd Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M.

_de Devenish_, an _Irishman_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals. The second is M. _d.i.c.kson_, a _Scotsman_, who has a Colonel's Commission, and is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the Collegiate Church of _St. Mary_ consists of true Priests, who rail at one another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house, where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I dare say, were they to embrace at High Ma.s.s, they would hug so lovingly, as to squeeze the Breath out of one another's Bodies.

I proceeded over a fine Causey to MENIN, one of the Barrier Towns belonging to the Emperor, with a _Dutch_ Garison. The Count[87]_de Na.s.sau Laleck_, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the _Dutch_ Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, to the Emperor, and also to the States General his Masters. But I can't imagine how he would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War should break out between the Emperor and _Holland_. I think this Oath may be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the _Bucentaur_ at _Venice_, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. _Menin_ is one of the most regular Fortifications in _Flanders_. M. _de Vauban_, by whom they were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there was no Breach made in it. The _French_ Commandant, when he surrendered it to the Duke of _Marlborough_, having demanded Leave to march out of the Breach, was answered, That 'twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the Gate. There's no Company at _Menin_, but Mademoiselle _de Laleck_, and some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.

LISLE, the Capital of _French Flanders_, is as gay, populous and trading a City, as the Towns of _Imperial Flanders_ are declining. 'Tis a large, fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav'd. It has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which discover its Riches. There's a new Town-house building here, in a bad Situation; but when finish'd, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke _de Bousslers_, whose Father acquir'd great Glory by his vigorous Defence of _Lisle_, is Governor of this City, and of _French Flanders_. He is a fine handsome young n.o.bleman, tho' of an under Size. He applies very much to the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body speak well of him. He makes a n.o.ble Appearance, and lives generously. I found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to _France_ would wish all her young n.o.blemen were like to him.

There are several good Houses in _Lisle_, particularly that of Madame _de Mouchi_, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late d.u.c.h.ess of _Berry_; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there's abundance of good Company. The _French_ Officers make a much better Appearance than ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In Winter there are a great many b.a.l.l.s, and a true Relish of good Living here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.

You know that _Lewis_ XIV. took _Lisle_ from the _Spaniards_. The Allies retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the Number of Princes and great n.o.blemen who were present at it, such as the King of _Poland_, the Electoral Prince of _Hanover_, now the King of _Great Britain_, and the late Landgrave of _Hesse Ca.s.sel_, puts one in Mind of the Siege of _Troy_. _Lisle_ was restored by the Treaty of _Utrecht_ to _France_, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded _Ypres_ and its Chatellany to the Emperor.

Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there's a Concourse to it from all _Imperial Flanders_, because of the Profit to be made by the Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call'd me back to _Germany_, I should have stay'd here some time longer.

I return'd again thro' _Ghent_, and from thence went to _Antwerp_, surnam'd the _Trading_; for you must know, that all the Towns in the _Low Countries_ have Surnames: Thus, _Brussels_ is called the _n.o.ble_, _Ghent_ the _Great_, _Louvain_ the _Wise_, _Mechlin_ the _Genteel_, _Namur_ the _Strong_; and so of the rest.

ANTWERP, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in _Europe_, stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the _Scheld_. Our Lady's Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which 'tis adorned. The Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller's Attention.

This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by _Rubens_, and two very magnificent Chapels, are still to be seen.

The Foundation of _Antwerp_, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of _Alva_, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.

_Antwerp_ is very much fallen from what it was once. 'Twas formerly a City of the greatest Trade in _Europe_; but _Amsterdam_ is risen upon its Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. _Antwerp_ is incomparably better situate than _Amsterdam_, and the largest Vessels came to it heretofore by the _Scheld_; but this River is now choak'd up by Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the _Dutch_, those charitable Neighbours of the _Netherlands_.

Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac'd and embroider'd Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to the a.s.sembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at _Quadrille_, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There's a charming Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that is to be seen out of _Italy_, but no Play. So that, take it all together, you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.

The Marquis _de Rubi_, one of the Emperor's Major-Generals, is Governor of _Antwerp_. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he appears with Dignity. He is a _Catalan_, and was Viceroy of[88]_Sardinia_, when the _Spaniards_ made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of Cardinal _Alberoni_.