Pencillings by the Way Part 3

The Fountain of Egeria--The Pontine Marshes--Mola--The Falernian Hills--The Doctor of St. Agatha--The Queen of Naples, 372

LETTER LV.

St. Peter's--The Fountains--The Obelisk--The Forum--Its Memories--The Cenci--Claude's Pictures--Fancies Realized--The Last of the Dorias--A Picture by Leonardo Da Vinci--Palace of the Cesars--An Hour on the Palatine, 379

LETTER LVI.

Roman Eyes versus Feet--Vespers at Santa Trinita--Roman Baths--Baths of t.i.tus--Sh.e.l.ley's Haunt, 390

LETTER LVII.

The Tomb of the Scipios--The Early Christians--The Tomb of Metella--Fountain of Egeria--Changed Aspect of Rome, 396

LETTER LVIII.

Palm Sunday--A Crowd--The Miserere--A Judas--The Was.h.i.+ng of Feet--The Dinner, 402

LETTER LIX.

The Protestant Cemetery--Sh.e.l.ley's Grave--Beauty of the Place--Keats--Dr. Bell, 409

LETTER LX.

Audience with the Pope--Humility and Pride in Contrast--The Miserere at St. Peter's--Italian Moonlight--Dancing at the Coliseum, 415

LETTER LXI.

Easter Sunday--The Pope's Blessing--Illumination of St.

Peter's--Florentine Sociability--A Marriage of Convenience, 421

LETTER LXII.

The Correggio--Austrians in Italy--The Cathedral at Milan-- Guercino's Hagar--Milanese Coffee, 427

LETTER LXIII.

Still in Italy--Isola Bella--Ascent of the Simplon--Farewell to Italy--An American--Descent of the Simplon, 433

LETTER LXIV.

The Cretins--The Goitre--First Sight of Lake Leman--Mont Blanc--June in Geneva--The Winkelreid, 440

LETTER LXV.

American and Genevese Steamers--Lilies of the Valley--A Frenchman's Apology--Genevese Women--Voltaire's Room, 446

LETTER LXVI.

The Jura--Arrival at Morez--Lost my Temper--National Characteristics--Politeness versus Comfort, 452

LETTER LXVII.

Lafayette's Funeral--Crossing the Channel--An English Inn-- Mail Coaches and Horses--A Gentleman Driver--A Subject for Madame Trollope, 458

LETTER LXVIII.

First Dinner in London--The King's Birth-day--A Handsome Street--Introduction to Lady Blessington--A Chat about Bulwer--The D'Israeli's--Contrast of Criticism--Countess Guiccioli--Lady Blessington--An Apology, 465

LETTER LXIX.

An Evening at Lady Blessington's--Fonblanc--Tribute to American Authors--A Sketch of Bulwer--Bulwer's Conversation--An Author his own Critic, 476

LETTER LXX.

Ascot Races--Handsome Men--The Princess Victoria--Charles Lamb--Mary Lamb--Lamb's Conversation--The Breakfast at Fault, 483

LETTER LXXI.

A Dinner at Lady Blessington's--D'Israeli, the Younger--The Author of Vathek--Mr. Beckford's Whims--Irish Patriotism--The Effect of Eloquence, 491

LETTER LXXII.

The Opera House--What Books will pay for--English Beauty--A Belle's Criticism on Society--Celebrities, 498

LETTER LXXIII.

Breakfast with Proctor--A Story of Hazlitt--Procter as a Poet--Impressions of the Man, 504

LETTER LXXIV.

Moore's Dread of Criticism--Moore's Love of Rank--A generous Offer n.o.bly Refused--A Sacrifice to Jupiter--The Election of Speaker--Miss Pardoe--Prices of Books, 509

LETTER LXXV.

Dinner at Lady Blessington's--Scott--The Italians--Scott's Mode of Living--O'Connell--Grattan--Moore's Manner of Talking--Lady Blessington's Tact--Moore's Singing--A Curious Incident--The Maid Metamorphosed, 517

PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.

LETTER I.

AT SEA.--I have emerged from my berth this morning for the first time since we left the Capes. We have been running six or seven days before a strong northwest gale, which, by the scuds in the sky, is not yet blown out, and my head and hand, as you will see by my penmans.h.i.+p, are anything but at rights. If you have ever plunged about in a cold rain-storm at sea for seven successive days, you can imagine how I have amused myself.