Explorations in Australia Part 20

Continued on to the water found ahead, and on our way saw some clay-holes with water and satisfied the horses. When near the spring, saw natives'

tracks, and shortly afterwards a fire with a whole kangaroo roasting in it. The natives had made off when they saw us, leaving their game cooking. Continuing on, and pa.s.sing the native well, we reached the granite rocks, two miles from the spring, and camped. While having dinner we saw two natives about a quarter of a mile from us, watching us; we beckoned to them, and Windich and I approached them. As we neared them they began talking and moving off slowly; we could not get close to them, although they did not appear to be afraid of us. Some fine ranges are visible from here South-East. Lat.i.tude of camp 25 degrees 54 minutes 53 seconds South, by meridian alt.i.tude of Altair. Marked a tree F 70, being the 70th camp from Geraldton. Barometer 28.26 at 5 p.m. We are not in the lat.i.tude of Mr. Gosse's track by fifteen miles, yet there are tracks only about two miles south of us! I cannot account for this. The tracks may be Mr. Giles's, as I cannot think Mr. Gosse could be out in his lat.i.tude.

12th.

Left camp with Tommy Windich to find water ahead, instructing my brother to follow on to-morrow. We bore East-South-East for a few miles over gra.s.sy flats towards some high hills, but, seeing what we supposed a good spot for water, we turned east towards it, over miserable spinifex sand-hills, and found some splendid granite rocks and holes, but not much water--enough, however, to give the horses a drink. If there was rain, there would be enough water here for a month or more. Near these rocks found a tree resembling the figtree (Ficus Platypoda), with ripe fruit about the size of a bullet, which tasted very much like a fig. I ate some of the fruit, which was very good. Fine hills and ranges to the eastward, and country very promising, and in many places beautifully gra.s.sed. After resting two hours we pushed on about east, and, after going five miles over spinifex sand-hills, came to a granite range and found two fine rock holes, sufficient to satisfy the horses. Continuing on, we camped close to a peaked granite hill, which I named Mount Elvire. No water for the horses. Found the old horse-tracks, just before we camped, coming from eastward. I cannot make them out to be Mr. Gosse's; they must be Mr.

Giles's. There appears to be a great number of horses', but am uncertain if there are any camel-tracks.

IN SAFETY.

13th.

Found a rock hole with about forty gallons of water in it close to camp.

After watering our horses we followed along the old tracks, going nearly North-East, and pa.s.sed a gnow's nest, where they had apparently got out eggs. Shortly afterwards found where the party had camped without water, and continued on to some high hills and ranges; then we left them to follow some emu tracks, which, after following up a gully and over a hill, brought us to a fine spring of good water in a gully. We camped here, and intend waiting for our party, which will reach here to-morrow.

We watched at the water for emus, and after waiting about four hours saw two coming, one of which Windich shot. Fine gra.s.s, although old and dry, down this gully. Ranges in every direction. The country contrasts strikingly with what we have been travelling through for the last three months. The party whose tracks we followed this morning have not been to this spring, so they must have missed it. All my troubles were now over, inasmuch as I felt sure we would accomplish our journey and reach the settled districts of South Australia; although, as it afterwards proved, we had many days of hard work and some privation yet to endure. Still the country was much improved, and not altogether unknown. I then gave out publicly to the party that we were now in safety, and in all human probability in five or six weeks would reach the telegraph line. I need not add how pleased all were at having at last bridged over that awful, desolate spinifex desert.

14th.

Went to a hill close to camp, the highest in this neighbourhood, and erected a pile of stones. About 1 o'clock the party arrived all safe.

They reported having seen three natives the day we left, and had induced them to come to camp, and had given them damper and sugar and a red handkerchief each; they did not remain long. Each had two spears, very long and thick, and made out of three pieces spliced together, with large barbs on them. The party had finished all the water on their way, the horses yesterday having drank over ten gallons each. This afternoon I took a round of angles and bearings from a pile of stones on the hill.

Marked a tree F 72, near spring, which I named Barlee Spring, after the Honourable F.P. Barlee, Colonial Secretary of Western Australia, from whom I have ever received much kindness and a.s.sistance, and who took a great interest in this expedition. A remarkable hill bore South-South-West from spring, which I named Mount Palgrave. Barlee Spring is in longitude about 127 degrees 22 minutes East. Unable to get lat.i.tude: too cloudy.

15th.

Left camp with Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my brother to follow to-morrow. Steered East along the South side of a rocky range for ten miles, when we ascended a hill to get a view ahead. About thirty miles to east fine bold ranges are visible, also broken ranges from North-East and round to South-East; they are no doubt the Cavanagh Ranges of Mr. Gosse. About five miles ahead we saw some granite rocks, to which we proceeded, and found a tremendous rock hole full of water; it was in between two large rocks and completely shaded from the sun. As the country east to the ranges appears to be all spinifex and red sand-hills, I decided to remain here to-night and continue on in the morning. Left a note telling my brother to camp here on Sunday night. In the afternoon got a fine round of angles from granite rocks. The country pa.s.sed over to-day was along and through ranges which are no doubt the Barrow Ranges of Mr. Gosse. The flats are very gra.s.sy, but the hills are covered with spinifex. My brother marked a tree at this camp F 73, and observed the lat.i.tude to be about 26 degrees 4 minutes, but was unable to get very good observation on account of clouds. The Ficus Platypoda was also found here, loaded with ripe fruit.

GILES'S CAMP.

16th (Sunday).

Steering about East-North-East towards the ranges, we pa.s.sed over very miserable spinifex plains and red sand-hills the whole way, about thirty miles. After reaching the ranges we followed up a fine gra.s.sy wide flat, splendidly gra.s.sed, although old; and on the flat were innumerable horse-tracks--unmistakable evidence of horses being camped for months in this neighbourhood. Kept on up the gully and flat for about a mile and a half, when Windich found a gum-tree marked E. GILES OCT. 7, 73. My former suspicions that Mr. Giles must have been in this neighbourhood were now confirmed. Soon after we came on a cart-track, which rather astonished us, and soon found that it must have belonged to Mr. Gosse, who also camped close here. A deep, well-beaten track went along up the gully, which we followed, knowing it was the daily track of the horses to the water, and soon after found their old camp at a beautiful spring running down the gully a quarter of a mile. A stock-yard had been built, and gardens made, besides a large bush hut to shelter the party from the sun as well as rain. Trenches were dug round the hut and tent, so that they must have had rain. I should say Mr. Giles must have been camped here for two or three months at least. We camped half a mile down the gully from the spring. Mr. Gosse and Mr. Giles were within a few miles of each other at the same time, and did not meet.

17th.

Went for a walk to examine the cart-tracks; found two tracks going east and west. This convinced me that the cart belonged to Mr. Gosse, who I knew had returned. Went to the top of a high hill to take angles, while Windich tried to shoot a kangaroo. After a hard climb I reached the summit, and had just commenced taking angles when I heard three shots, and shortly after Windich cooeying. Looking round, I saw a native running along about 300 yards from me. He disappeared in a hollow. Fearing that Windich had been attacked by the natives I descended towards him as quickly as possible, but could not see him. I looked about, keeping a sharp look-out, expecting to be attacked, but could not find Windich. Sat down a short time and finally made my way back to the horses, and, after finding them, saddled one and started back to look for Windich. Found him coming along with a kangaroo on his back, having shot three, but had not seen any natives; he had been waiting for me a good while. After dinner I went back to get my coat and a compa.s.s left at the foot of the hill, and then again ascended the hill and got a fine round of angles. The rock is very magnetic, and the compa.s.s is quite useless. Could see the dust from the party coming across the spinifex sand-hills, and, descending, met them just before sundown.

ANOTHER ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES.

They reported having had an encounter with the natives on the 16th, and having been followed by a number of armed natives for a long way. Finally they had been compelled to fire on them, but had not killed any. They were glad to hear of the spring found, and, continuing on, reached it about half-past 6 o'clock. The spring is Fort Mueller of Mr. Giles, where he was camped for a long while, and his most westerly permanent water. By observation Fort Mueller is in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds South, and longitude by lunar observation 128 degrees East, the variation being about 1 degree 25 minutes East by azimuths.

18th.

Rested at spring. Marked a tree sixty yards south of camp F 74, being 74th camp from Geraldton. Also erected a pile of stones on peak, thirty chains West-South-West of camp, with a pole in centre, on which is marked:

J. FORREST, AUGUST 17, '74.

Took four sets of lunars, which place spring in longitude 128 degrees East of Greenwich.

19th.

Steering East-South-East along Mr. Gosse's track for about thirty-five miles, over most miserable sandy hills and plains of spinifex, with the exception of a few miles at first, along a gra.s.sy flat. Two rock holes pa.s.sed were quite dry. Camped without water on a gra.s.sy flat not far from the ranges; hope to find water early to-morrow, as our horses are too poor to go long without it. Was obliged to abandon police-horse Brick to-day, as he was completely done up. Nothing but downright poverty is the cause of his giving in; and the same in the case of Fame and Little Padbury, which we abandoned over a month ago. They were poor when they left, and have only had very dry gra.s.s ever since. It is a wonder to me they all do not give in, as many are mere skeletons. Poor old Brick held up as long as he could, but was forced to give in, and we had to leave him to his solitary fate; he will probably go back to the spring (Fort Mueller). Barometer 28.30; lat.i.tude 26 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds South.

20th.

Got a very early start, and continued on. At one mile found a sandy soak in a gully, and by digging it out got sufficient water for all our horses. Still proceeding onwards, following a gully for two miles, came to Mr. Gosse's depot Number 13, at Skirmish Hill. A bullock had been killed here, and the flesh jerked. Found a large white gum-tree marked GOS. 13 at camp. All the water was gone. I, however, camped, and took our horses to a place a mile west, where, by digging in the sand, we got enough for them. Went with Pierre to the summit of Skirmish Hill, and took angles. To the south, nothing but sand-hills and spinifex; to the North-East the Tomkinson Ranges showed up and looked very remarkable and promising. Marked a tree F 76, being 76th camp from Geraldton. Camp is in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 23 minutes 28 seconds, longitude about 128 degrees 32 minutes East.

TOMKINSON RANGES.

21st.

Left camp at Skirmish Hill in company with Windich, instructing my brother to follow to-morrow. Found a fine rock hole two miles from camp, and followed along Mr. Gosse's track for twenty miles to the Tomkinson Ranges, over most miserable sandy ridges, covered with spinifex. Fine gra.s.sy flats along and through the ranges. We left the track to examine a gully to the north, but could not find any water. Got on the track just before dark and followed it along a few miles. Camped without water for our horses on a fine flat of very old gra.s.s. Windich's horse completely knocked up, and we had to walk and drive him before us this afternoon.

The day was excessively hot, and the horses are very thirsty. We have only about a quart ourselves.

ELDER SPRINGS.

22nd.

Early this morning we continued on, Windich's horse scarcely able to walk. After about ten miles, found a rock hole with three gallons of water in it, which we gave to our horses. Followed Mr. Gosse's track to see if there was any water about his depot Number 12, but we either missed it or had not reached it. About noon Windich's horse could go no farther, and mine was not much better. What was to be done? We nearly finished what water we had with us. The party were coming on to-day, and were depending on us to find water. I determined not to follow the track any farther, but to search for water ourselves. The horses were unable to move; we therefore decided to leave them and go for a search on foot.

Windich said he had seen emu tracks, and he thought they were making south. We therefore started on foot. The sun's heat was excessive. About 3 o'clock returned unsuccessful, and finished what water we had with us.

What next to do was the question; no time was to be lost. Mr. Gosse's map showed some gullies ahead, but whether there was any water in them was questionable; he states, "Nearly all the waters discovered in the Mann and Tomkinson Ranges were running when left, and from a considerable height." It must have been a good season, and not like this. We decided to go on foot to a gully about two miles north, which had white gums in it. We started off and saw more emu tracks going and coming, also natives' tracks. Windich shot a wurrung, which he said had lately drunk water. When we reached the gully, many tracks were seen ascending it, and we felt sure we should find water, and surely enough we soon reached a most splendid spring, running down the gully half a mile. We were elated and very thankful. Windich got a shot at an emu, but missed it. After having a good drink we went back and got our horses, reaching the spring with them after dark. They were very thirsty and completely done up. Mr.

Gosse missed this spring; probably there was water on the flats when he was here, and he did not look much. Although his track is easily followed, we had nearly got into serious difficulty by following it. Had we not found this spring our position would be very critical, not having any water for ourselves or horses, and the party in the same predicament.

I will be careful not to follow the track too far in future, but to trust to our own resources and look for ourselves. We feel sure we pa.s.sed water this morning, as in one place we saw emu tracks and pigeons. The party will reach here to-morrow, and I feel very thankful and relieved to have such a fine spring to bring them to. The feed is good a mile down from the spring, although it is very old and dry. There has not been any rain to speak of since Mr. Gosse was here, nearly twelve months ago, as can be seen by the cart-tracks crossing the gullies. I named this spring the Elder Springs, after my friend the Honourable Thomas Elder, who has been such a great supporter of exploration, and from whom I received a great deal of kindness and attention.

23rd (Sunday).

Awaited the arrival of the party. Shot an emu; and, while skinning it, heard a gun-shot, and soon after saw Kennedy coming on, walking. Found that the party were only half a mile off. They had been very distressed for water, and had left 120 pounds of flour and a pack-saddle five miles back, Taylor's mare about three miles back, and Burges and his saddle two miles back. When they saw my note, directing them to the water, they had gone back and got Burges, and with great difficulty got him close to camp, when he lay down and they left him. Windich and I started back on foot at once with two buckets of water, and met Burges within a quarter of a mile of camp, crawling along; we gave him the water and he then went on to the spring. We went back and found Taylor's mare, and brought her slowly to camp. We are now safe again, and I must give the horses a few days' rest. The weather has been hot, and if we had not found this spring, not more than five horses would have lasted out the day. I will send back and get the flour, as it is only five miles off. The party were all very glad to see such a fine spring, as their position was very dangerous, having only three gallons of water with them altogether.

24th.

Rested at Elder Spring. Found the barometer had got broken, which I was very sorry for. Worked out several lunars taken on the 11th at Giles's camp.

25th.

Worked out the remainder of the lunars. Marked a large white gum-tree close to camp, on left bank of Elder Springs, F 78, being the 78th camp from Geraldton. Found camp to be in south lat.i.tude 26 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds and longitude about 129 degrees 9 minutes East. My brother and Pierre went back and brought up the flour left five miles back on the 23rd.

MOUNT JANE.

26th.

Went with Pierre to a high peak, which I named Mount Jane, about four miles South-South-East from camp, and got a round of angles, and a fine view of the country. To the east high ranges and gra.s.sy flats, but to the south, and from South-East to west, nothing but level country with a few low rises here and there, apparently sand-hills covered with spinifex--most miserable country.

27th.

Left camp with Tommy Windich to look for water ahead, instructing my brother to follow to-morrow. Steered east for four miles, when we struck Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed along it a few miles, when we bore more to the north; then in the direction of emu tracks, and pa.s.sed along a fine gra.s.sy flat with hundreds of kangaroos in every direction; also many emu tracks. We were sure we were getting close to water. A little farther on saw about twenty-five emus, and soon reached a spring in the brook, and camped for dinner. Concluded to remain here the remainder of the day.

Went for a walk higher up the brook and found another spring, about one mile from the first. Returned and took our horses up to it, as there was better feed there. Left a note, telling the party to camp there also. In a good season these flats must look magnificent; at this time they are very dry, but there is a good deal of old gra.s.s on them. My brother marked a tree at spring F 79, which he found to be in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 13 minutes. I named this spring Wilkie Spring, after the Honourable Dr.

Wilkie, the honorary treasurer of the Burke and Wills Exploration Fund, who took such a lively interest in Australian Exploration.

28th.

Continued on eastward and soon struck Mr. Gosse's cart-track. Followed it along about seven miles, pa.s.sing Mount Davies, when we bore more to the south. Following the direction of some natives' tracks, and after going about two miles, found a native well in a gully, where water could be procured by digging. Left a note telling my brother to dig it out and see if he could get enough for the horses. We continued on about East-North-East, and soon after shot a kangaroo and rested an hour for dinner, after which we bore about North-East towards a gully and white gums, and found it to be Nilens Gully of Mr. Gosse. Found his camp and a white gum marked with a broad arrow, but no water. We followed along and through the ranges, twisting and turning about, and at last found a number of natives' tracks, making towards a gap, and, following along them, found they led to a gorge and white gum gully, ascending which we found water in some little springs. After watering our horses we returned towards the party three miles and camped, intending to bring the party to the spring to-morrow.

FRIENDLY NATIVES.

29th.

Returned about five miles and met the party coming on all right. They reported having met about twenty natives yesterday, who were friendly, and who came to them, first of all laying down their spears. They had given them damper and a handkerchief. Pierre gave them two kylies. They had three kangaroos roasting in their fire. When we were pa.s.sing Nilens gully I saw a native running, and, calling Windich, we went over and saw five natives sitting on some rocks watching us. I went towards them; at first they appeared hostile, but after talking at them and making signs they began to be friendly and came down close to us. They were all armed with spears. One of them gave me his spear, which was very blunt, and I sharpened it for him. He made signs for me to give him the knife, but I could not, as we were very short of knives. They were afraid at first when I showed them how a horse could gallop, but soon were very pleased and laughed heartily. Windich shot a chockalott and gave it to them. They were amazed at seeing the bird drop, and were very pleased when it was given to them, as they much prize the feathers of these birds. After this we left them and continued on to the spring found yesterday, and camped.

Got plenty of water by digging a few holes in the springy places. Marked a tree F 80 in gorge close to spring. Found spring to be in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 7 minutes 28 seconds South, longitude about 129 degrees 39 minutes east.

THE MANN RANGES.

30th (Sunday).

Rested at spring. Took bearings from hill close to spring, Mount Hardy bearing north 117 degrees east magnetic, and Mount Davies north 253 degrees east magnetic. The Mann Ranges were also clearly visible about ten miles off. In the afternoon Windich found a fine spring in a gully about half a mile north of camp, at which he shot an emu. I named these springs the Crowther Springs, after my friend Mr. Charles Crowther, of Geraldton. Emus and kangaroos very numerous in these ranges.

31st.

Got an early start and took the horses to the water found by Windich yesterday, where they could help themselves. Steered East-North-East about, over level country; spinifex generally, studded with desert oaks, with limestone and snail-sh.e.l.ls on surface for about twenty miles.

Reached the Mann Ranges. Before we reached the ranges we struck Mr.

Gosse's track, and followed it along, and shortly came to a very large and recent encampment of the natives. There must have been a hundred camped here about a week ago. Found two small springs not far off, but not strong enough to water all our horses; but we soon found some fine springy pools in a gully about half a mile further on, where Mr. Gosse also had been camped, and marked a tree with a broad arrow. I marked on the same tree F 81, being our 81st camp from Geraldton. Mr. Gosse's return track leaves his outward track at this spot. I intend following his return track and make in to the telegraph line, down the Alberga, and on to the Peake. There is abundance of water at this place, which I have no doubt is permanent, as there are four springs within half a mile of one another, but three are very small. Took bearings from a very high range close by; Mount Davies, Mount Edwin, and Mount Hardy being visible.

The Mann Ranges are very high and rough, and are composed of reddish granite. They are the highest ranges met with since leaving Mount Hale and Mount Gould, on the Murchison. Found camp F 81 to be in lat.i.tude 26 degrees 3 minutes 20 seconds South by meridian alt.i.tude of Altair and Vega, and longitude about 129 degrees 53 minutes East.