The South of France-East Half Part 1

The South of France--East Half.

by Charles Bertram Black.

PREFACE.

This Guide-book consists of _Routes_ which follow the course of the main Railways. To adapt these Routes as far as possible to the requirements of every one the Branch Lines are also pointed out, together with the stations from which the Coaches run, in connection with the trains, to towns distant from the railway. The description of the places on these branch lines is printed either in a closer or in a smaller letter than that of the towns on the main lines.

Each Route has the _Map_ indicated on which it is to be found. By aid of these maps the traveller can easily discover his exact situation, and either form new routes for himself, or follow those given.

The _Arrangement_ of the Routes is such that they may be taken either from the commencement to the end, or from the end to the commencement.

The Route from Paris to Ma.r.s.eilles, for example, does equally well for Ma.r.s.eilles to Paris.

The _Distance_ of towns from the place of starting to the terminus is expressed by the figures which accompany them on each side of the margin; while the distance of any two towns on the same route from each other is found by subtracting their marginal figures on either side from each other.

In the _Description_ of towns the places of interest have been taken in the order of their position, so that, if a cab be engaged, all that is necessary is to mention to the driver their names in succession. Cabs on such occasions should be hired by the hour. To guard against omission, the traveller should underline the names of the places to be visited before commencing the round. In France the Churches are open all the day. In Italy they close at 12; but most of them reopen at 2 P.M. All the Picture-Galleries are open on Sundays, and very many also on Thursdays. When not open to the public, admission is generally granted on payment of a franc.

In "Table of Contents" the Routes are cla.s.sified and explained. For the Time-tables recommended, and for the mode of procedure on the Continental Railways, see "Preliminary Information."

Before commencing our description of the Winter Resorts on the Mediterranean, with the best routes towards them, let it be clearly understood that not even in the very mildest of these stations is it safe for the invalid to venture out either in the early morning or after sunset without being well protected with warm clothing; and that, even with this precaution, the risk run of counteracting the beneficial influences of a sojourn in these regions is so great as to render it prudent to determine from the first to spend those hours always within doors. On the other hand, it is most conducive to health, during the sunny hours of the day, to remain as much as possible in the open air, walking and driving along the many beautiful terraces and roads with which these places abound; and if the day be well employed in such exercise, it will be no great hards.h.i.+p to rest at home in the evening.

Nor is it necessary to remain in the same town during the entire season; indeed a change of scene is generally most beneficial, for which the railway as well as the steamers affords every facility. "I would strongly advise every person who goes abroad for the recovery of his health, whatever may be his disease or to what climate soever he may go, to consider the change as placing him merely in a more favourable situation for the removal of his disease; in fact, to bear constantly in mind that the beneficial influence of travelling, of sailing, and of climate requires to be aided by such dietetic regimen and general mode of living, and by such remedial measures as would have been requisite in his case had he remained in his own country. All the circ.u.mstances requiring attention from the invalid at home should be equally attended to abroad. If in some things greater lat.i.tude may be permitted, others will demand even a more rigid attention. It is, in truth, only by a due regard to all these circ.u.mstances that the powers of the const.i.tution can be enabled to throw off, or even materially mitigate, in the best climate, a disease of long standing.

"It may appear strange that I should think it requisite to insist so strongly on the necessity of attention to these directions; but I have witnessed the injurious effects of a neglect of them too often not to deem such remarks called for in this place. It was, indeed, matter of surprise to me, during my residence abroad, to observe the manner in which many invalids seemed to lose sight of the object for which they left their own country--the recovery of their health. This appeared to arise chiefly from too much being expected from climate.

"The more common and more injurious deviations from that system of living which an invalid ought to adopt, consist in errors of diet, exposure to cold, over-fatigue, and excitement in what is called 'sight-seeing,' frequenting crowded and over-heated rooms, and keeping late hours. Many cases fell under my observation in which climate promised the greatest advantage, but where its beneficial influence was counteracted by the operation of these causes." --_Sir James Clark on the Sanative Influence of Climate._

SEE MAP PAGE 27, AND MAP ON FLY-LEAF.

Many after leaving the Riviera are the better of making a short stay at some of the baths, such as Vichy (p. 359), Vals (p. 93), Mont-Dore (p. 378), Bourboule (p. 383), Aix-les-Bains (p. 283), Bourbon-l'Archambault (p. 357), or Bourbon-Lancy (p. 358). If at the eastern end of the Riviera, the nearest way to them is by rail from Savona (pp. 209 and 183), or from Genoa (pp. 212 and 279) to Turin (p. 292). From Turin a short branch line extends to Torre-Pellice (p. 305), situated in one of the most beautiful of the Waldensian valleys.

If the journey from Turin to Aix-les-Bains, 128 miles, be too long, a halt may be made for the night at Modane (p. 290); where, however, on account of the elevation, 3445 ft., the air is generally rather sharp and bracing.

From the western end of the Riviera the best way north and to the baths is by the valley of the Rhone (map, p. 27), in which there are many places of great interest, such as Arles (p. 68), Avignon (p. 58), Orange (p. 51), and Lyons (p. 29). From Lyons take the western branch by Montbrison (p. 349) for Vichy, Mont-Dore, and Bourboule. For Aix-les-Bains take the eastern by Amberieux (p. 281) and Culoz (p. 282). From Avignon, Carpentras (p. 54), Pont-St. Esprit (p. 98), Montelimart (p. 48), La Voulte (p. 82), Crest (p. 46) and Gren.o.ble (p. 324), interesting and picturesque excursions are made. From Carpentras Mont Ventoux (p. 56) is visited. From La Voulte, Ardeche (p. 45) is entered. From Crest diligences run to the towns and villages between it and Aspres (pp. 47 and 345). From Gren.o.ble the roads and railways diverge which lead to the lofty peaks of the western Alps and to the mountain pa.s.ses between France and Italy.

None should go abroad without a pa.s.sport. Even where several are travelling together in one party, each should have his own pa.s.sport.

They are easily procured and easily carried, and may be of great use.

The best hotels in the places frequented by the Americans and English cost per day from 12 to 22 frs., and the pensions from 9 to 15 frs., including wine (often sour) in both. The general charge in the hotels of the other towns throughout France is from 8 to 9 frs. per day. Meat breakfast, 2 to 3 frs.; dinner, 3 to 4 frs.; service, fr.; "cafe au lait," with bread and b.u.t.ter, 1 fr. The omnibus between the hotel and the station costs each from 6 to 10 sous. The driver in most cases loads and unloads the luggage himself at the station, when he expects a small gratuity from 2 to 10 sous, according to the quant.i.ty of bags and trunks. The omnibuses of the Riviera hotels cost from 1 to 2 frs. each, and although the conductor does not unload the luggage he expects a gratuity.

Neither jewellery nor money should be carried in portmanteaus. When a stay of merely a day or two is intended, the bulky and heavy luggage should be left in depot at the station. Some companies charge 1, others 2 sous for each article (colis) per day. See "Railways" in "Preliminary Information."

C. B. B.

PRELIMINARY INFORMATION.

THE LANDING-PLACES ON THE FRENCH SIDE OF THE CHANNEL.

The six princ.i.p.al ports on the French side of the English Channel connected by railroad with Paris are:--

Dieppe--distant from Paris 125 miles; pa.s.sing Cleres Junction, 100 m.; Rouen, 85 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest, Saint Lazare. Time, 4 hours. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 25 frs.; 2d cl. 19 frs.; 3d cl. 14 frs.

London to Paris _via_ Newhaven and Dieppe (240 miles):--tidal; daily, except Sunday, from Victoria Station and London Bridge Station.

Fare--1st cla.s.s, 31s.; 2d cl. 23s.; 3d cl. 16s. 6d. Sea journey, 60 miles; time, 8 hours. Time for entire journey, 16 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, Gare St. Lazare, Rue St. Lazare 110, ancien 124. Bureau special, agent, M. Marcillet, Rue de la Paix, 7. A. Collin et Cie., 20 Boulevard Saint Denis.

From Dieppe another line goes to Paris by Arques, Neufchatel, Serqueux, Forges-les-Eaux, Gournay, Gisors, and Pontoise. Distance, 105 miles. Time by ordinary trains, 5 hours 10 minutes. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 21 frs.; 2d, 15 frs.; 3d, 11 frs. Arrives at the St. Lazare station of the Chemins de Fer de l'Ouest.

From Treport a railway extends to Paris by Eu, Gamaches, Aumale, Abancourt, Beauvais, and Creil. Distance, 119 miles. Time, 8 hours 40 minutes. Fares, 1st cla.s.s, 24 frs.; 2d, 18 frs.; 3d, 13 frs. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord. There are few through trains by this line.

BOULOGNE--distant 158 miles from Paris; pa.s.sing Montreuil, 134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.

from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.

18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 4 hours. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 31 frs.

25 c.; 2d cl. 23 frs. 45 c.; 3d cl. 17 frs. 20 c.

London to Paris, _via_, Folkestone and Boulogne (255 miles):--tidal route; from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Express trains daily to Folkestone, and from Boulogne, first and second cla.s.s.

Sea journey, 27 miles; time of crossing, 1 hour 40 minutes. Fares from London to Paris by Boulogne--1st cla.s.s, 56s.; 2d cl. 42s. Time for the entire journey, 10 hours. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply to the railway station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord.

CALAIS--185 miles from Paris; by Boulogne, 158 m.; Montreuil, 134 m.; Abbeville, 109 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m.

from Paris. Arrives at the station of the Chemin de Fer du Nord, No.

18 Place Roubaix. Time by express, 5 hours. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 36 frs.

55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.

London to Paris, _via_ Dover and Calais (mail route, distance 283 miles);--departing from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or London Bridge. Sea journey, 21 miles; time about 80 minutes. First and second cla.s.s, express. Fares--60s.; 2d cl. 45s. Total time, London to Paris, 10 hours. Luggage is registered throughout from London, and examined in Paris. Only 60 lbs. free. For tickets, etc., in Paris apply at the railway station of the Chemins de Fer du Nord.

CALAIS--204 miles from Paris; by Saint Omer, 177 m.; Hazebrouck, 165 m.; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 82 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No. 18 Place Roubaix. Time, 7 hours 40 minutes. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 36 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 27 frs. 40 c.; 3d cl. 20 frs. 10 c.

DUNKERQUE--190 miles from Paris; by Bergues, 185 miles; Hazebrouck, 165 m., where it joins the line from Calais; Arras, 119 m.; Amiens, 81 m.; Clermont, 41 m.; and Creil, 32 m. Arrives at the station, No.

18 Place Roubaix. Time, 10 hours. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 37 frs. 55 c.; 2d cl. 28 frs. 15 c.

England and Channel, _via_ Thames and Dunkirk (screw):--tidal; three times a week from Fenning's Wharf. Also from Leith, in 48 to 54 hours.

LE HAVRE--142 miles from Paris; by Harfleur, 138 m.; Beuzeville Junction, 126 miles; Bolbec-Nointot, 123 m.; Yvetot, 111 m.; Rouen, 87 m.; Gaillon, 58 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Arrives, as from Dieppe and Cherbourg, at the station of the Chemin de Fer de l'Ouest, No. 124 Rue St. Lazare. Fares--1st cla.s.s, 28 frs. 10 c.; 2d cl. 21 frs. 5 c.; 3d cl. 15 frs. 45 c. Time by express, 4 hours 50 minutes, and nearly 3 hours longer by the ordinary trains.

London and Channel, _via_ Southampton and Le Havre:--Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 9 P.M. from Waterloo Station, leaving Southampton 11.45 P.M. Sea journey, 80 m.; time, 8 hours.

CHERBOURG--231 miles from Paris; by Lison, 184 m.; Bayeux, 167 m.; Caen, 149 m.; Mezidon Junction, 134 m.; Lisieux, 119 m.; Serquigny Junction, 93 m.; Evreux, 67 m.; Mantes Junction, 36 m.; and Poissy, 17 m. from Paris. Time by express, 8 hours; slow trains, nearly 13 hours.