The South of France-East Half Part 29

On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the Louvre; H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor; La Paix.

A little way hack are the Pension d'Angleterre; H. de France; H.

Mediterranee, 9 to 13 frs.

Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Sejour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie; Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de Californie is the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday morning, 28th March 1884.

In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard Cannet, are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont; all with gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.

At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs. A little higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St. Paul; whence a road ascends to the Hotel *Paradis, which, although a first-cla.s.s house, on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to 15 frs. Next it is the Hotel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well inland, on the Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to 20 frs.

On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is the *Hotel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the beach, and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to 10 frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is the H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ Church, and on an eminence opposite the H. *Terra.s.se, 12 to 16 frs., a large house with garden. Farther west, and considerably inland, upon separate eminences, are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind the Rothschild villa; and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord Brougham's villa. Farther west, and on the same level, is the H. Esterel, same price. On a hill, a little beyond the perfume distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la Tour, well situated, and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is called La Bocca, and sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there.

From this a road runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are fields of the fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the perfumeries (see page 161).

[Headnote: CHURCHES. CAB FARES. STEAMERS.]

_Churches._--Christ Church, Rue de Frejus; St. Paul's, Boulevard du Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique.

Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid Ladies' Home. French Churches, on the Route de Gra.s.se, and in the Rue Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.

Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are sold.

_Cab Fares._--One horse with 2 seats, the course 1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour, 3 frs.

Portmanteaus, fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for Ma.r.s.eilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and Sat.u.r.days trips to Theoule, 2 frs.

[Headnote: LORD BROUGHAM.]

Cannes extends 4 m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan, and partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills, and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The princ.i.p.al square, called the Alles de la Liberte, is nearly in the centre of the town, at the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110 wide. It contains the Hotel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between them is a marble statue, life-size, "A Lord Brougham, ne a Edinburgh, le 19 Septembre 1778. Decede a Cannes le 7 Mai 1868." He is in his official robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm, he holds a rose.

The Hotel de Ville contains the Public Library and interesting collections ill.u.s.trating the natural history of the neighbourhood. The obliging director gives every a.s.sistance in naming the plants, insects, and minerals. At the head of the Allees, and on the adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill is the Church of Notre-Dame-d'Esperance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the 15th. In front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it are St.

Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square tower commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery of St.

Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the tower is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The monument consists of a ma.s.sive lofty cross on a double bas.e.m.e.nt, bearing the following inscription:-- "HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII.

Decessit MDCCCLXVIII." Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose, K.T., died December 1874.

_The climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In nooks sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but on leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced. The mean winter temperature is 47 Fahr. The average number of rainy days in the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as at Nice.

"The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as its equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties of the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic temperaments." --Madden's _Resorts_. "While Cannes, therefore, possesses a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and many cla.s.ses of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those suffering from affections of the respiratory organs." --_Dr. Ha.s.sall._

[Headnote: DRIVES.]

_Drives._--In Cannes there are great facilities for driving in carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The omnibuses start for their destinations either from the east corner of the Cours (Allees de la Liberte), or from the Rue d'Antibes, near the Cours. The largest livery stables are in the Rue d'Antibes. They charge for a carriage, with coachman and two horses, per month 30. The cabmen carry their tariffs with them, and are bound to show them when required. Copies of the "Tarif des Voitures" are kept for distribution in the Kiosque on the Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at the rate of 3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare.

[Headnote: ROAD TO VALLAURIS.]

THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.

The best of the drives is to +Vallauris+ by the low road to the Golfe de Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N., and 250 ft.

above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5 m. S.W. by the Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs. Cab with one horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris, 1 fr. By taking the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a delightful and easy walk along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris bridge a little below Ma.s.sier's pottery, and ascend the broad road. About m. from the bridge is the "Observatoire de la Corniche," where tea and coffee can be had, and whence there is a charming view east from Cannes to Bordighera.

About half-way between this and the observatory at the Cannes or S.W.

end of the road is the large hotel Cannes-Eden.

The Belvedere, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545 ft. above the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, 1 fr. each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the ca.n.a.l which supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the other branch, by which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the Belle-Vue hotel on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The ca.n.a.l commences near the source of the Siagne, a few miles from St. Cesaire.

From the Belvedere an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still higher summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvedere. The view is similar, including more of the interior. A short distance N.E. from this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which from the top looks as if it were nearly over Antibes.

Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de Jouan station is C. Ma.s.sier's pottery, and a few yards along the road towards Antibes is Napoleon's column (p. 169).

[Headnote: VALLAURIS. POTTERY. MINES.]

+Vallauris+, pop. 4000, is a poor village, with small cafes and restaurants. The omnibus stops in the "Place" opposite the church and the Hotel de Ville, containing a large flat stone bearing an inscription, stating that "the Emperor Tiberius remade the road it refers to in the 32d year of his tribunician authority." Also a column, 4 ft. high and 14 inches in diameter, bearing an inscription to Constantine.

Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery, "Potteries Refractaires," earthenware utensils, princ.i.p.ally of the "marmite" or stewpan cla.s.s, capable of bearing great heat without cracking. A dozen marmites, in a.s.sorted sizes, are sold for 2 frs. To this the Ma.s.siers and others have added the manufacture of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan. Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up northwards from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the Pleiocene period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The entrances into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in various shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from Estaque, near Ma.r.s.eilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery.

+Vallauris to Antibes.+

The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to Antibes traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having pa.s.sed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The road behind, extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is pa.s.sed, and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. 154 and 169.)

CANNET.

Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Fonciere, is +Cannet+, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the H.

*Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste.

Philomene is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10 frs.

Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858 the accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none of those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the church is the "Place," commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous. Cab to Cannet, and return by the Gra.s.se road, 7 or 9 frs.

[Headnote: LA CROISETTE.]

Drive to +La Croisette+, the first cape east from Cannes, by the beautiful road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1 fr., or 2 frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous.

Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the entrance to the orange orchard "Des Hesperides," occupying 4 acres. The trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are those the second year on the tree. Frosts r.e.t.a.r.d the sweetening process, and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications begun by Richelieu, but never completed.

_Cannes to the Cap d'Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30 frs.

Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it starts from the Allees de la Liberte, and in Antibes from the "Place," fare 1 fr. Very near this "Place" are two comfortable inns, the H.

Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d'Or; pension 7 to 8 frs. Their omnibuses await pa.s.sengers at the railway station. Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carre, near the northern side of the entrance.

From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen distinctly Nice, the fis.h.i.+ng village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland from Cagne are St.

Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers. One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry; the other forms part of an adjoining building, the "Bureau du Recrutement."

[Map: Cannes & Environs]

[Headnote: CAP D'ANTIBES. LIGHTHOUSE.]

The +Cap d'Antibes+ affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the "Cap" from Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts.

Ascend the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a "Via Crucis," bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some part of the pa.s.sion of our Lord. At the top is N. D.

d'Antibes, frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the sea. The building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for one person, fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hotel du Cap, a first-cla.s.s house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on a rock to the W., overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.

[Headnote: CROIX DES GARDES. THEOULE.]

+Drives to the west of the Hotel de Ville.+--_La Croix des Gardes_, 2 m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest way ramifies from the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel. The cross rises from a column on a block of granite. The view is extensive. By the side of the road will be observed considerable plantations of the _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a pleasant perfume is distilled.

_Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W, Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16 frs. 1 hour's rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50 c.; which, as it does not return till 4.30, affords ample time to walk on to +Theoule+ and back, 2 m. W. The Napoule road commences from the western, or what is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It pa.s.ses the little Scotch church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public gardens. Farther W. is Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal Chapels. A short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is the villa Eleonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress trees growing by the side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the road, is the poor little chapel of St. Ca.s.sien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of the Esterel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct, a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From Theoule a road extends to Trayas.

[Headnote: ESTeREL. PeGOMAS.]

_Cannes to the Inn of Esterel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea.