The South of France-East Half Part 37

[Headnote: SAN REMO. HOTELS.]

{16}{84} +SAN REMO+, 16 m. E. from Menton by the coach-road, pop. in winter 18,000. As Italy is entered it will be observed that the women, the maidens and their mothers, are the hewers of wood and drawers of water, and that to their lot falls the menial work of the most laborious trades.

_Hotels._--Those with the figure are first-cla.s.s houses, with second-cla.s.s. The asterisk signifies that they are especially good of their cla.s.s. Commencing at the railway station and going eastward by the princ.i.p.al street, the Via Vittorio Emanuele, we have the G. H. de la Paix, close to the station and fronting the public garden.

Then follow the H. and P. Nationale, 7 to 8 frs.; the *H. San Remo; the P. Suisse; the Rubino Bank; the Squire-Pharmacy; the Asquasciate Bank; the Vicario Store; the P. Molinari, and the H. Bretagne, frequented princ.i.p.ally by commercial travellers. Behind Squire's is the Episcopal Chapel, and a little farther west, left hand, the Post Office.

On the Corso Garibaldi, the eastern continuation of Via Vittorio Emanuele, are the H. Nice and the *H. Angleterre. Near the Angleterre are the Pensions *Allemagne; Rossi; and Lindenhof; and the Home for invalid ladies of limited means. Twenty-five s.h.i.+llings the week; which, as at the similar inst.i.tution at Menton, includes doctors' fees, comfortable living, wine or beer, and everything except was.h.i.+ng and fire in bedroom. For particulars apply to Messrs. Barnetts & Co., bankers, 62 Lombard Street, London.

At the end of the corso are two large houses in gardens, with one front to the sea and the other to the road--the H. Mediterranee and the *H. Victoria. Near the harbour, behind the Via V. Emanuele, are the *Beau-Sejour with garden, and the H. Bains.

At the west end of San Remo are some good houses, mostly on eminences in gardens. Taking them in the order from E. to W. we have the P.

Anglo-Americaine; the Presbyterian Chapel; the P. Tatlock (German); *Hotel Royal; *Belle-Vue; Paradis; *Londres; Pavillon (moderate); Anglais; Palmieri; and the *West-End, the most important hotel on this side of San Remo, and situated at the commencement of the pleasant walk by the Strada Berigo. In the first-cla.s.s hotels the pension is from 9 to 18 frs., in the "pensions" from 7 to 11 frs.

Omnibuses run between the two ends of the town; also between San Remo and Bordighera; San Remo and Taggia by Bussana; San Remo and Dolce-Acqua; and San Remo and Ceriana, 6 m. N. (see map, p. 165).

_Cab Fares._--The course, 1 horse, 1 fr. during the day, and 1 fr.

night. Per hour, 2 frs.; at night, 3 frs. The course, 2 horses, 1 fr.

during the day, and 2 frs. at night. The hour, 3 frs.; at night, 4 frs.

[Headnote: CLIMATE. DRIVES.]

Old San Remo is built on two hills, and the modern town at the foot of these hills, on the Nice and Genoa road, called at this part the Via Vittorio Emanuele, where are now all the best hotels, restaurants, booksellers, confectioners, and dealers in inlaid woods. "The mean temperature is 49.1 Fahr. (Sigmund), nearly as high as Dr. Bennet's estimate of that of Menton; while it would appear, from a comparison of the thermometrical tables kept by Dr. Daubeny with those of Dr. Bennet for the same winter, that the range of temperature at Menton is nearly 3 more than at San Remo. The climate is warm and dry, but from the protecting ranges not rising precipitously as at Menton, the shelter from the northerly winds is less complete. At the same time the vast olive groves screen the locality from cold blasts and temper them into healthful breezes, imparting a pleasing freshness to the atmosphere, and removing sensations of la.s.situde often experienced in too well-protected spots. The size of the sheltered area gives patients a considerable choice of residences, which can be found either close to or at varying distances from the sea, according to the requirements of the case; while the numerous wooded valleys, abounding in exquisite wild flowers, provide plenty of donkey and foot excursions." --Williams' _Winter Stations_.

San Remo has many pleasant walks, in valleys full of lemon trees, as at Menton, or up mountains covered with olive trees, generally on terraces built up with low stone walls without plaster.

[Headnote: POGGIO.]

The best of the drives is to the Madonna della Guardia, on Cape San Martino, by the village of Poggio, and back by the coast-road. From the Hotel Victoria the Corniche is continued till arriving at a part where the road divides into two; one descends, the other ascends; take the latter, which an inscription on a marble slab indicates to be the "Strada Consortile de San Remo a Ceriana." This road ascends through olive trees to Poggio. Just before entering Poggio, the carriage-road to the Madonna strikes off to the right by the east side of the promontory, while a stony bridle-path goes right over the centre. The town seen on the opposite side of the valley is Bussana. Poggio, one of the many wretchedly poor villages, has two churches. The road, which has ascended all the way from San Remo to Poggio, still continues to ascend by the Ceriana valley to Ceriana. _Inn:_ H. Etoile d'Italie, 6 m. from San Remo, commanding ever-extending views, which, together with the profusion of wild flowers, form the princ.i.p.al attraction of the excursion. Cab with 1 horse to +Ceriana+ and back, 14 frs.; 2 horses, 20 frs., with hr. rest. The Madonna road from Poggio is nearly level. The chapel, with a few tall cypresses, stands at the extremity of Cape San Martino. The prospect is extensive. To the east are, on the coast, Arma, Riva, San Stefano, and in the distance San Lorenzo. On the hills behind them are Bussana, Pompeiana, and Lingueglietta. Behind is Poggio. To the west are San Remo, La Colla, and Bordighera. Cab with 1 horse to the chapel and back, 7 frs.; 2 horses, 10 frs., with hr. rest (see maps, pp. 163 and 199).

A good carriage-road, commencing near Cape Nero, leads up to La Colla, on one of the spurs of the Piano del Carparo, 1000 ft. above the sea, and 2 m. from San Remo, by the bridle-path. Cab with 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with hr. repose. See page 199.

[Headnote: MADONNA DELLA GUARDIA. SAN ROMOLO.]

+St. Romolo to Monte Bignone.+

One of the most frequented excursions is to San Romolo, 1700 ft. above the sea, and 4 m. northwards, either from the Place St. Etienne, or the Place St. Sir. Donkey, there and back, 5 frs. San Romolo consists of some villas, an old convent, and a chapel, built over the cell which was inhabited by the hermit St. Romolo. It commands splendid views, and from it the ascent is made of the Piano del Re, a ridge 3500 ft. above the sea, between Mounts Caggio or Cuggio and Bignone. To reach the ridge, descend a short way the Romolo road, then take the path to the left, and make for the corner next Monte Bignone, whence the bridle-path ascends to the summit, 4235 ft. above the sea, 5 hrs. from San Remo, or about half that time from San Romolo. "In making the ascent of Monte Bignone, it is always safest to be accompanied by a guide. For those who are strong the ascent on foot is the pleasantest, but the road is quite practicable for sure-footed donkeys, although in places it is somewhat trying for those whose nerves are not strong. The whole route is exceedingly beautiful, glorious prospects meeting the eye at almost every turn; the path sometimes traverses forests of fir trees, with amongst them innumerable bushes of the bright-leaved holly, at others it runs along the edges of steep ravines and precipices: many curious and rare wild flowers attracting the eye on the way; till at length, after an ascent of about two hours from San Romolo and four from San Remo, the broad sloping and gra.s.sy summit of the mountain is reached. Continue the ascent until its highest point, marked by a stone obelisk, is gained, and from which one of the most magnificent prospects imaginable lies stretched out on all sides, embracing an area in some directions of more than a hundred and fifty miles, astonis.h.i.+ng and enchanting the beholder.

To the south, the glorious expanse of the Mediterranean, and in the far distance the island of Corsica, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rotondo; on the right Monte Caggio, and the mountains forming the western half of the San Remo amphitheatre, terminating at Capo Nero surmounted by Colla, and the valleys of San Remo and Bordighera; farther away, the mountains of the Mentonean amphitheatre, and along the coast successively the various capes and promontories as far as Cap d'Antibes and even the Esterels; on the left the Ceriana and Taggia Valleys, with on the farther side of the latter Castellaro and the Madonna di Lampeduza, and Pompeiana and Riva on the seash.o.r.e; while far away to the east are the mountains of the Eastern Riviera or of the Riviera di Levante, with the Apennines in the distance; lastly, to the north is a broad and deep valley, having on the other side a range of mountains still loftier than the one on which we are standing, and above these again, the snow-capped Alps stretching away in the one direction towards the Esterels, and in the other to Turin. Looking now more closely into the valley below, on a narrow ridge on the near side of the valley, is seen the town of Perinaldo, and on a hill on the opposite side, Apricale; both of a singularly deep red hue, from the fact that the tiled roofs only of the houses are seen from this great alt.i.tude. There is a pathway leading down to Bajardo, and thence to Pigna, where accommodation at a small but clean inn may be had for the night; whence the return home can then be made by the Nervia valley and Bordighera, altogether a most beautiful and varied excursion. (For the valley of the Nervia, see p. 201, and map, p. 165.)

[Headnote: VIEW FROM MONTE BIGNONE.]

"It is impossible to convey in words anything like a correct idea of the splendour of the prospect on a clear day from Monte Bignone; it must be seen to be appreciated; it has been described as one of the finest in Europe. The excursion is one which may be safely undertaken with ordinary precautions, and is within the compa.s.s of any person of fair health and strength. An additional charm consists in the number of rare and beautiful wild flowers, which are different from those found at a lower elevation. Amongst the most noticeable of these is the blue Hepatica, Anemone, Hepatica L., a pink variety of which is sometimes met with, the pink cyclamen-like flower, Erythronium Dens Canis L. with its trefoil-like and spotted leaves; in shady places the Primrose, Primula acaulis All.; everywhere over the summit of the mountain the Cowslip, Primula veris; two species of Gentian, Gentiana verna and G. acaulis L.; Ophrys fusca Link, also a species of Asphodel, Asphodelus albus Willd.; Saxifraga cuneifolia; Sempervivum arachnoideum L.; and lastly, in shady dells, Daphne laureola L. With two or three exceptions, these flowers were found in blossom at the end of April, but they had been so for some weeks previously. On my way up the San Romolo valley I noticed many plants of h.e.l.leborus ftidus L., as also for the first time in flower the large and handsome pink Cistus, C. albidus L.; this is the species so commonly found above the region of the olive trees." --_San Remo and the Western Riviera_, by Dr. Ha.s.sall.

+San Remo to Taggia+, there and back, cab, 1 horse, 8 frs.; 2 horses, 12 frs., with hr. rest; by coach, 2 horses, for the day, 20 frs. Or from San Remo by rail to Arma, whence omnibus to Taggia, 10 sous. Donkey from Taggia to Lampedusa, 2 frs.

The best place for refreshments in Taggia is the Albergo d'Italia, formerly the palace of the Marquis Spinola. The stream Taggia or Argentina is crossed by a long curved bridge of unequal arches. From the east end of this bridge a steep road leads up to the town of Castellar, whence a well-kept path ascends to the chapel of the Madonna di Lampedusa. From both places there are charming views. The Taggia road ascends the valley the length of Triora, by the village of Badalucco.

[Headnote: TAGGIA.]

miles from MENTON miles to GENOA

{21}{79} +TAGGIA+, pop. 5000, on the Giabonte, 3 m. from the station. An omnibus awaits pa.s.sengers ( fr.) In Taggia it halts at the Locanda d'Italia, at the termination of the Via Curlo; whence commences the road to Castellar, situated upon a hill on the opposite side of the river, and about hour's walk from Taggia. Castellar is visited on account of the gaudy sanctuary and the view from the hill. Taggia, though a poor dirty town, with steep, narrow, and slippery streets, has two very fair churches. At No. 1 Via Soleri--the princ.i.p.al street in the town--is the habitation of Giovanni Ruffini (Dr. Antonio). To reach it, on entering the town, after having pa.s.sed through the archway, take the street to the left, the Via Ruffini, then, first left, the Salita Eleonora. On the beach, near the Taggia station, is the little port of Arma, with the ruins of a fort built in the 15th cent. 2 m. farther east by rail is San Stefano, pop. 600, at the foot of Mont Colma, with a climate like that of San Remo.

[Headnote: PORTO MAURIZIO. ONEGLIA.]

{31}{69} +PORTO MAURIZIO+, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ France; Commerce.

Porto Oneglia, pop. 8000, H. Victoria, on the opposite sides of a small bay. The most important part of San Maurizio is the high town, containing the princ.i.p.al church, of which the porch consists of a double row of Corinthian columns flanked by two square towers. The interior represents the Roman-Greek style met with in all the churches on this coast, only here the details are more elaborate and more highly finished. The roof, instead of being plain barrel-vaulted, is divided into arches, domes, and semi-domes, resting on ma.s.sive piers with attached Corinthian pillars. The soffits of the arches and domes are covered with diaper mouldings, with rich friezes and dentils along the edges. The form of the pulpit is graceful, and the staircase nearly hidden. Many of the old houses have handsome cornices over their windows and doorways. A good and much-frequented road, or rather promenade, connects Porto Maurizio with +Oneglia+, about a mile distant, beautifully situated at the mouth of the Impero. This is the birthplace of Admiral Andrea Doria, 1466. After pa.s.sing through a long tunnel we reach the Port of Diano Marina. The broad valley inland up the Pietro is covered with fine olive trees. Farther east is Cervo, on an eminence overlooking the station and the sea. Then Laigueglia, with gardens full of orange trees. From Laigueglia a fine smooth beach extends all the way to

[Headnote: ALa.s.sIO. ALBENGA.]

+Ala.s.sio+, pop. 5000, a new winter station, 44 m. east from Menton, and 56 m. west from Genoa, built along the beach, and nearly surrounded by a high wall, with at both ends a suburb beyond the walls. _Hotels:_ H. et P. Suisse, opposite station, 6 to 9 frs. On the beach at the E. end, the *G. H. Ala.s.sio, 8 to 9 frs. On the beach at the W. end, the H.

Mediterranee, 6 to 8 frs. Near the station, the Episcopal chapel.

Ala.s.sio and its neighbour Laigueglia are partially protected from some of the cold winds by low but compact mountains belonging to the chain of the Ligurian Alps. Pleasant walks and well-paved causeways extend up the hills, while along the coast are pretty drives to Loano and Ceriale, or up the valley westwards from Albenga. Around both towns are many large carouba and orange trees. Palms are less abundant. Between Ala.s.sio and the next station, Albenga, is the small island of Gallinaria, with a castle on the summit of the hill.

+Albenga+ is 4 m. N. from Ala.s.sio, on the Caprianna, and at a little distance from the coast. _Hotels:_ Hotel d'Albenga; Italia; Vittoria.

Their omnibuses await pa.s.sengers. This, the ancient Albium Ingaunum, the birthplace of the Emperor Proculus, is situated on low ground, in a broad valley watered by the Caprianna. Around Albenga are many deciduous trees, and here and there in the sheltered spots orange and lemon trees trained as espaliers. A good carriage-road extends up the valley of the Nerva and across the Col di S. Bernardo, then by the town of Garessio and the valley of the Tanaro to Ceva, 4 hours by rail from Turin.

After Albenga follow Loano, pop. 3800, pleasantly situated on the beach at the foot of a gentle sloping hill, and Pietraligure, on the Isola, pop. 1000, a sheltered town, with abundance of palms, orange, and lemon trees, princ.i.p.ally at the eastern end, round the cape.

[Headnote: FINALMARINA. NOLI.]

{59}{41} +FINALMARINA+, pop. 3500. _Hotel:_ Garibaldi. The church of St. John the Baptist, after the design of Bernini, is richly ornamented with marbles of various hues, mingled with rich gilding and bright frescoes, presenting a grand combination of gorgeous colour. In Final Borgo is the church S. Biaggio, resplendent also with colour, but more subdued. The pulpit and altar display most delicate workmans.h.i.+p. There is a great deal of fine scenery in the neighbourhood, and pleasant walks in the valleys, and up the heights to the numerous dismantled forts (15th cent.), and to the Castello Gavone, a picturesque ruin. Five miles N.

from Finalmarina is +Noli+, pop. 1000, _Inn:_ Albergo del Sole, at the commencement of the arcade, fronting the beach. This curious town, formerly a republic under the protection of Genoa, is still partially surrounded by walls garnished with rectangular towers. It is pierced from E. to W. by narrow parallel streets, the best being the Via Emanuele II., which commences at the beach on E. side by the clock-tower, near the inn, and traverses the town to the W. side by the new church. The continuation, outside the town, the Via Monasterio, leads up to the mountains covered with vines, olives, and maritime pines. On the top of the hill are the ruins of Noli castle, with walls garnished with circular towers. The old church, 11th cent., is near the station. Fis.h.i.+ng is the chief industry. A beautiful road, 2 m. N. by the coast, leads to Spotorno.

[Headnote: SAVONA.]

{74}{26} +SAVONA+, pop. 17,000. _Hotels:_ Suisse, a large house in the Piazza di Teatro; *Roma, under the Arcades; and the Italia, opposite the Suisse.

In the ancient seaport of Savona, Mago the Carthaginian deposited his spoils after the capture of Genoa. The greater part of the town is now modern, consisting of handsome gardens, boulevards, and well-paved broad streets lined with ma.s.sive arcades, and substantial houses built in enormous square blocks of from four to five stories high. The rock, the Rupe di S. Giorgio, on which the acropolis formerly stood, is occupied by the castle, and pierced by an elliptical tunnel. At both ends are small harbours with shallow water. The +Cathedral+, built in 1604, is, in the interior, entirely covered with ornamental designs in different shades of brown and orange, relieved here and there by stripes of gilding. The two large frescoes in the choir, and the other at the western end, are by V. Garrazino. In the last chapel, N. side nearest the altar, is a triptych by Brea, 1495. Near the Cathedral, in the Sistina chapel, is the tomb of the parents of Pope Sixtus IV., the uncle of Julius II. In the church of San Domenico there is in the first chapel, left on entering, a "Nativity" by A. Semini. The figure of the Virgin appears rather large, but the contour and expression of the others are admirable. In another chapel on the same side of the church is an "Adoration of the Magi" by Albert Durer, in the form of a triptych. In a small church, called the Capella di Christo, over the altar within a niche, is a wooden figure of our Lord, said to be 800 years old. In the sacristy are two reliefs in black marble from 400 to 500 years old. The Emperor Pertinax, and the Popes Gregory VII., Sixtus IV., and Julius II., were born in or in the neighbourhood of Savona.

4 m. from Savona by coach and rail is the sanctuary of Nostra Signora di Misericordia. The church, built in the 16th cent., is covered with precious marbles, and ornamented with paintings by Castello, the intimate friend of Ta.s.so. At Savona junction with line to Turin, 91 m.

northwards (see p. 183).

[Headnote: ALBISSoLA.]

{77}{23} +ALBISSoLA+, pop. 2000, on the Sansobbia. This town is about a mile from the Port or Marina. 4 m. farther eastwards by rail is +Varazze+, pop.

10,000, a pleasant town at the head of a large bay. A little s.h.i.+pbuilding is carried on here. Beautiful palm, lemon, and orange groves. This is the birthplace of Jacopo di Voragine, the author of the _Golden Legend_, the reading of which was the princ.i.p.al means of transforming Ignacio Loyola from an intrepid soldier into a zealous missionary. Between Varazze, 64 m. N.E. from San Remo, and Arenzano, 6 m. N.E. from Varazze, is another favoured part of the Riviera, sheltered by a ridge of most picturesque hills, of which Monte Grosso (1319 ft.) is the culminating point. The road here pa.s.ses through firs, umbrella pines, carouba trees, cypresses, evergreen oaks, arbutus trees, and some fine shrubs of _Phillyrea angustifolia_, with here and there just enough olive trees to afford evidence of the comparative mildness of the climate. About half-way between Varazze and Cogoleto is the village of Inoria.

[Map: Genoa and Savona to Sestri-Levante]

[Headnote: COGOLETO. COLUMBUS.]