The South of France-East Half Part 39

In the Piazza Nuova is +S. Ambrogio+, entirely covered with beautiful marbles and adorned in much the same style as the church of the Annunziata. Among other paintings it contains a large picture of the a.s.sumption by G. Reni, third chapel right; St. Ignatius healing one possessed of devils, by Rubens; and over the high altar, by the same master, the Circ.u.mcision. The frescoes in the cupolas are by Carloni and Galeotto. The large building to the right is the former +Ducal Palace+, now the government house. The grand reception room up stairs is ornamented with 54 columns of Brocatello marble, with bases of Siena marble. From the windows is seen the tower of the Embriarci, constructed by Guglielmo Embriarco, the inventor of the movable wooden towers used by G.o.dfrey de Bouillon in his attacks upon Jerusalem.

[Headnote: CATHEDRAL.]

On the other side of the Ducal Palace is the +Cathedral+, built in the 11th cent., but repeatedly restored. The exterior and interior are of black and white marble in alternate bands. The facade consists of three large portals resting on spiral, plain, and twisted columns. The arch of the centre porch has an immense span, bordered by bold fascicled work, while over the doorway is the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in relief. In the interior there is a strange mixture of styles. The nave is separated from the aisles by sombre coloured pillars supporting pointed arches, over which runs a series of round-headed arches. The roof of the choir has frescoes by Teverone. The marquetry of the stalls was executed in the 16th cent. The leading feature, however, in this church is _the chapel of St. John the Baptist_, in the centre of the left aisle. It was built in 1490, and ornamented with statues by G. Porta and M. Civitali, of which the best are those representing Zacharias in his official robes, Elizabeth, and Habakkuk. Under a canopy supported by four porphyry columns is the shrine by D. Terrano (1437), said to contain the ashes of John the Baptist, brought from Mirra in 1097. At the end of the right or south aisle is the chapel of Mary, with a Crucifixion by Van Dyck. In the sacristy is preserved a vase once famous under the name of the Sacro Catino (sacred vessel). It was found at Caesarea, in Palestine, and tradition a.s.serted that it had been presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, and that out of it the Saviour had eaten the paschal lamb with his disciples. It was believed to be of emerald; and a law was pa.s.sed in 1476, declaring that if any one applied a hard substance to the vase he should suffer death, because it was suspected that the material was only gla.s.s.

Below the cathedral at the foot of the Via S. Lorenzo is a cab-stand, whence drive by the church of Carignano and the Acqua Sola Gardens to the Via di Circonvallazione, commanding a series of beautiful views of Genoa. From the P. de Ferrari an omnibus runs to Carignano, pa.s.sing through the Acqua Sola Gardens, 30 c.

[Headnote: S. MARIA. CAMPO SANTO, OR CEMETERY.]

+S. Maria in Carignano+, built 1555-1603 after designs of Galeazzo Alessi, is 165 ft. square, and 174 ft. above the sea. The statues above the entrance, of Mary, Peter, and Paul, are by David. Of the four colossal statues below the dome, St. Sebastian and Bishop Sauli are by Puget; the other two are by Parodi and David. The best of the paintings (covered) are--St. Francis by Guercino, Mary with Sts. Francis and Charles by Procaccini, St. Peter by Piola, and a Descent from the Cross by Cambiaso. But better than all the pictures is the view from the highest gallery on the dome, 368 ft. above the sea, ascended by an excellent stair of 249 steps, fee 25 c. each. The omnibus in the square goes to the Acqua Sola Gardens. From the top of the little wooded hill at the N.W. extremity of the Splanata della Acqua Sola is another fine view.

About 2 m. from Genoa by the western side of the Bisagno is the +Campo Santo+, the Staglieno cemetery, approached by omnibus every hour from the Piazza de Ferrari. The greater part of the road runs parallel to the Genoa aqueduct arches, which follow the sinuosities and inequalities of the mountain sides for nearly 15 miles.

[Headnote: ALBERGO DEI POVERI.]

The front portion of the cemetery is rectangular, 656 ft. wide and 820 ft. long, surrounded by a double arcade of marble arches with a span of 21 ft., and 18 ft. high. Each arch can contain seven tiers of three coffins each, the end s.p.a.ce of each narrow cell allowing just room enough to label the date of the death and the name of the occupant. The poorest people are buried in the ordinary way, in the ground surrounded by the arches. The richest have a whole arch to themselves, where all that money can command in talented sculpture is made to do service to the feelings of bereaved friends, by perpetuating the memory of those they have lost, in the choicest and most costly marbles. These lovely statues appeal more to the sympathy of the spectator than the medley contents of even a famous sculpture-gallery. Above this rise other two galleries, and behind the second on the hill side is another large piece of ground. On a level with the first upper gallery, and approached by 77 long white marble steps bounded by a ma.s.sive parapet of dark greenstone from the quarries of Pegli, is the mortuary chapel, consisting of a great dome supported on 16 round columns, each of one block of black marble 32 ft. high. In eight niches round the interior are colossal statues of Bible personages, beginning with Eve. The facade rests on six white marble columns 21 ft. high. The whole vast structure of galleries, stairs, walls, and floors is arched into cells and vaults for the dead.

At the N.W. end of Genoa, above the Annunziata, is the workhouse, +Albergo dei Poveri+, 318 ft. above the sea, on the Via di Circonvallazione, founded in the 17th cent., and containing accommodation for 1300 poor. At the E. end of the city is a large establishment for the insane, called the Regio Manicomio.

+The Riviera di Levante; or, Genoa to Pisa.+

Distance 102 miles, time 4 hours by "direct" train. See Maps, pages 199 and 211.

miles from GENOA miles to PISA

{ }{102} +GENOA.+--The best winter stations on the Italian Riviera are, with the exception of Bordighera and S. Remo, those situated between Nervi and Rapallo. The coast is exceedingly picturesque and sheltered from the N.

winds by precipitous mountains, covered at the base with vineyards, orange and lemon trees, and on the higher zones with olive, peach, and fig trees. Lord Carnarvon has been the first to take advantage of the superior beauties of this part of the Riviera in the choice of a site for a villa on Cape Portofino. Map, p. 211.

[Headnote: NERVI.]

{7}{95} +NERVI+, pop. 8000. *H. et P. Anglais, E. from the station, with large garden, 8 to 15 frs. H. et P. Victoria, on the W. side of station, 9 to 12 frs. On the face of the mountain, about 100 ft. above the H. et P. Anglais, the *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 8 to 9 frs., including wine; admirably situated. In the Piazza, near the station, and at the terminus of the Genoa and Nervi trams, is the *P. Suisse, 6 to 8 frs. Opposite, the H. et P. Nervi, 9 to 12 frs. English doctors. Episcopalian service.

Nervi, with the neighbouring town of Bogliasco, forms one continuous narrow street 2 m. long, hemmed in between houses and walls. On the S.

side is the sea, on the N. high hills covered with olive trees and studded with churches and cottages. Ten m. S.E. from Nervi is +Santa Margherita Ligure+, pop. 5000. *H. et P. Belle-Vue, 7 to 10 frs.

A charmingly situated town at the head of a sheltered tiny bay. In the neighbourhood is the sumptuous villa Spinola, in the midst of beautiful gardens. The prettiest walk is by the road skirting the beach to the village and promontory of Portofino, 3 m. S. To the right or N. is the villa Castello di Pagi, and on the fourth hill from the end of the promontory the villa of Lord Carnarvon overlooking the little fis.h.i.+ng village of Portofino, and commanding a glorious view.

{18}{84} +RAPALLO+, pop. 6000. H. et P. Europe, 8 to 10 frs. At the head of a small bay. A good deal of lace and olive oil is made here. Among the many pretty walks is the one to S. Margherita, 2 m. N., by the low road skirting the beach. The high road is more beautiful, and a trifle longer.

[Headnote: CHIaVARI.]

{24}{78} +CHIaVARI+, pop. 12,000, at the mouth of the Entella. _Inns:_ Albergo della Fenice; Locanda n.a.z.ionale; Caffe Ristorante Priario. One of the best towns on the coast, with well-paved and arcaded streets, substantial houses, and handsome churches containing a few valuable pictures. The most profusely ornamented is, close to the station, the church of the Virgin of Orta, whose "sacred" picture hangs over the high altar. Chiavari manufactures lace and chairs of light wood with twisted straw seats, plain and coloured, called Sedie di Chiavari. Many of the organ-grinders are said to hail from this town. 4 m. from Chiavari, across the Lavagnaro, is Sestri Levante, pop. 8000. _Hotels:_ Grand Hotel, with palm-garden; Italia. Trains halt a few minutes at this pleasant place, the Segeste of the Romans. Sestri is situated on a bay terminating with a promontory, on which is a garden commanding a grand view. Shortly after pa.s.sing Riomaggiore, 51 miles from Genoa, the Gulf of Spezia comes into view, with the promontory of Porto Venere and the island of Palmaria on the right, and in front numerous capes, the chief of which is Cape Corvo. From Sestri to Spezia by carriage and pair, 45 frs.

[Headnote: SPEZIA.]

{56}{46} +SPEZIA+, pop. 11,500, 1 m. from station. Spezia, although near good scenery, has nothing attractive itself; neither does it make a suitable winter residence. It has some excellent hotels bordering the s.p.a.cious corso along the beach, the best being the "Croce di Malta," a large and handsome building, 10 to 15 frs. Then follow the H. National; the Italia; and, below the arcade, the Brettagna, all first-cla.s.s, but the Brettagna is the most moderate. Boats with one man, 1 fr. per hour; with two men, 2 frs. In 1861 Spezia was made a station of the Italian navy. As a harbour it is one of the finest and largest in the world.

Napoleon I. intended to have made it the Mediterranean harbour of France. The Royal Dockyard, at the southwest side of the town, occupies 150 acres; while the artillery magazines, in the bay of S. Vito, cover an area of 100 acres. On the W. side of the bay is the picturesque Porto Venere, the ancient Portus Veneris, 8 m. distant by land, 10 frs. per carriage 1 hr., or boat 2 hrs. The marble of Porto Venere is black, with gold-coloured veins.

"To the N.W. and W. of Spezia is a chain of mountains, of which Monte Bergamo, 2109 ft., is the most distant. It may be ascended from the Genoa road, which runs under its N.E. flank. Nearer to Spezia is Monte Parodi with a carriage-road to the top, whence there is a grand panoramic view of the surrounding country. Near this is the village of Bia.s.sa, whose inhabitants are supposed to be of Moorish origin. While the N.W. coast of the Gulf of Spezia is rugged and hilly, the northern and eastern portion for about three miles is comparatively level, which renders it a good walking place for invalids. The valleys of the Migliarini, at the northern extremity of the eastern half of the Spezia valley, are also excellently adapted for invalids, especially at that time of the day when the sea-breeze is blowing freshly. A favourite excursion from Spezia by water is to Lerici and San Terenzo, about 6 m.

S.E. The steamer sails at noon, and returns at 4. Lerici is in a most sheltered situation, and remains in suns.h.i.+ne an hour after the sun has set at Spezia. The house, a square old-fas.h.i.+oned Italian villa, which Sh.e.l.ley occupied in 1822, is on the sh.o.r.e close to the sea, near the village." --_The Riviera_, by Dr. Sparks. After Spezia, the train crosses the Magra, the ancient boundary between Italy and Liguria, and arrives at

[Headnote: SARZANA.]

{67}{34} +SARZANA+, pop. 11,200. _Hotels:_ New York; Londres. This ancient town, with the picturesque fortress of Sarzanella, formerly belonged to the Grand Duke of Tuscany, who, in the 15th century, ceded it to the Genoese in exchange for Leghorn, at that time a mere village. Sarzana was the birthplace of Tommaso Parentucelli, who, from a simple monk, was in 1447 elected pope under the t.i.tle of Nicholas V., and who const.i.tuted his native place into a bishopric. He was a great patron of learning and founder of the Vatican library.

The Bonaparte family lived in this town till 1612, when they removed to Corsica. The cathedral (14th cent.) is a plain cruciform edifice, partly of marble and partly of stone. Behind the cathedral, by the first street right, is the citadel, two minutes' distant; and about fifteen minutes'

farther, the fortress built by Antelminelli, Lord of Lucca, a beautiful though low machicolated structure on the top of a hill overlooking the railway. Both citadel and castle are partly in ruins, and well seen from the station.

[Headnote: AVENZA.--CARRARA.]

{74}{31} +AVENZA.+ Station for Carrara, 3 miles N.E. by branch line. Gigs also for Carrara await pa.s.sengers at the station. Fare, 5 fr.

+Carrara+ (pop. 14,000), situated on the Carrione, formed by the union of the Torano, Fantiscritti and Colonnata streams, descending valleys with valuable marble strata. _Hotels:_ The n.a.z.ionale, close to the theatre; The Posta, adjoining the Post-office and close to the Accademia. Near the n.a.z.ionale is the Italian Protestant chapel. At the station great blocks of marble meet the eye. Pa.s.sing them and crossing the bridge by Walton's marble works, walk up the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza Alberica, with a statue of Maria Beatrice and a short arcade. Near the right side of this piazza are the two hotels.

The road to the left leads up the Carrione to the valley of the stream Torano, and the village of the same name, of a mile from Carrara.

The valley now becomes narrower, the road worse, and the heavily laden bullock-carts more numerous, carrying and dragging blocks of marble.

To the left rises Mount Crestola, and immediately opposite Poggio Silvestro, Polvaccio di Betogli, and the Mossa del Zampone, from all of which the Romans procured statuary marble, and which still continue to yield some of the finest quality. All the quarries (cave), of which there are 400, employing 6000 men, are a good way up the face of the mountains. The ascent to them is over steep slippery marble debris.

The nearest and the easiest "cave" to visit are on Mt. Crestola. The other quarries are in the valleys of the Colonnata and of its affluent the Fantiscritti. In the Fantiscritti mines Roman relics have been found. Any boy will do to show the way to the rivers Carrione and Torano, and when there it is impossible to go wrong; but to visit any particular mines a guide is necessary. Fee 4 fr. Besides the common road there is a railway for the conveyance of marble blocks from the valley of the Torano to the Marina or Port of Carrara. Many antique Roman statues are of marble from Carrara, anciently called Luni. The marble of which the Greek statues are made is from Paros, and from Mount Pentelicon, near Athens. Carrara is a healthy and busy town, not troubled in the least with mosquitoes in winter and spring. The great business of the town is the transporting and dressing of marble; and the princ.i.p.al establishments the studios of the artists, where statues, monuments, chimney-pieces, and ornaments are sculptured and exposed for sale. Admission readily granted.

The churches present nothing remarkable; the marble of the exterior walls of the cathedral has become brown, while that of the interior is nearly black. In the Accademia delle Belle Arti are some good copies of the works of great artists and a few Roman antiquities found chiefly in the mines of Fantiscritti.

miles from GENOA miles to PISA

{78}{26} +Ma.s.sA+ is about a mile from the railway, by a good road, at the foot of Mt. Castagnola, which, with the still loftier peaks in the rear, Mts.

Tambura and Rotondo, protect it from the northerly and easterly winds, so that it may be considered one of the winter stations on the Mediterranean. The climate is mild, as the vigorous orange trees in the gardens testify. In the neighbourhood are many pleasant walks, both on the plain and up the valleys. The Hotel Giappone in the Piazza Aranci, although a plain house, is clean, and is kept by kindly people. The town is quiet; there are a few workers and dealers in marble, but the princ.i.p.al occupation is agricultural. The ducal palace in the square was once the residence of Elisa Bacciocchi, Napoleon's sister. Valuable marble quarries. Pop. 5000.

{84}{20} +PIETRASANTA+, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Europa. A poor town, with marble works near the station outside of the walls, where baths are chiefly made. On the first large house, right hand of square, a tablet informs us that in it Michael Angelo Buonarrotti, on the 27th April 1518, "strinse nuovi contratti per la facciata di S. Lorenzo in Firenze." S. Martino (13th cent.) has a fine wheel window, of the kind found in nearly all the churches in this neighbourhood. At the entrance opposite the Campanile (1380) is a font about the same period. In the interior of the church are handsome marble columns, confessionals, pulpit, and font. The domes and semidomes are painted in fresco. Next is the Uffizio Munic.i.p.ale, with, in front, a statue to Leopold II., 1848. Then follows St. Agostino (14th cent.), all within a few yards of each other. In the neighbourhood are quicksilver and argentiferous mines and the Quarceta marble quarries.

[Headnote: VIAREGGIO.]

{90}{14} +VIAREGGIO+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Russie; Pension Anglo-Americaine; Commercio. A favourite sea-bathing station of the inhabitants of Pisa and Florence. On the 22d of July 1882 the body of Sh.e.l.ley was found cast on this beach. A few miles eastward, towards Lucca, is Lake Ma.s.saciuccoli, and the Roman ruins called the Bagni di Nerone, about 6 m. W. from Lucca in a beautiful country.

[Headnote: PISA.]

{105}{ } +PISA+, pop. 26,300. _Hotels:_ On right bank of the Arno, in the Lung'

Arno Regio, the *Grand Hotel; *Bretagna; *Nettuno; Londra. Close to station, right hand, the *Minerva et de la Ville; Was.h.i.+ngton; left hand, Commerce. Behind the H. Bretagna is the Anglican church. On the left side of the Arno, opposite the Victoria, is the Post-office. Cab-stand at the station. _Fares._--From the station to the cathedral, with from one to two pa.s.sengers, 1 fr.; from three to four, 1 fr. 15 sous. The hour, 2 fr. From the station go straight up the Via Vittorio Emanuele to the Arno, where cross the bridge and walk down the river to the fifth street right, the Via Santa Maria, crossed by an arch at the commencement. The Via Santa Maria leads directly to the Piazza del Duomo, containing, in a row, the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, and the Baptistery, and immediately behind, the Campo Santo, with frescoes considerably effaced, yet valuable as specimens of the Tuscan school of the 14th and 15th centuries. Fee for the Campo Santo 25 cents each.

[Headnote: PIAZZA DEL DUOMO--CATHEDRAL.]

The _Cathedral_, commenced in 1063 by the Greek architect Buschetto, was completed in 1092. The exterior is adorned with a range of blind arches decorated with party-coloured marble. Four open arcades, similarly constructed, rise over the western entrance, with the beautiful bronze doors of John of Bologna, as well as over those at the southern entrance by Bonano. Both doors are covered with a profusion of figures in delicately wrought iron, representing saints, prophets, and various other objects, enclosed in an elegant border of birds, foliage, fruits, and flowers. The internal length of the church is 311 ft., and of the transepts 252 ft. The roof of the nave is 109 ft. high. A double row of columns runs up the nave, and a single row along the transepts and choir. Sixty of them are of oriental granite, and the rest (14) of fine marble, and each of one piece. The arches resting on them are semicircular, and are mostly in alternate layers of white and black marble. The roof is covered with richly gilt panelling. The altars are by Michael Angelo, and are arranged in pairs, each couple opposite each other being alike, excepting the two at the opposite ends of the transepts, which, however, are similar in design. One represents the fall by woman, and the other the reconciliation by woman in the ascension of the Virgin. Over the high altar, on the semidome, is a colossal Mosaic by G. Gaddi, in 1325. Among the best of the paintings are four of saints by A. del Sarto, near the bishops' chairs. Here also are paintings of Moses and Aaron, St. Luke and St. John, by Beccafumi, and the Sacrifice of Abraham and the Entombment by Sodoma. Upon a pier of the right transept is a St. Agnes by A. del Sarto, and on the corresponding pier of the left transept a Madonna by Perino del Vaga. In the right transept notice the altar of St. Blaise, the chapel and tomb of S. Ranieri, the great picture of the Virgin with Saints by del Vaga and Sogliani. In the left (north) transept is the chapel of the Holy Sacrament, with a beautiful silver ciborium. The windows are small, but have some fine stained gla.s.s of the 14th and 15th cents. Galileo, while a student at Pisa, discovered, by observing the oscillations of the lamp suspended in the nave, that the vibrations of a pendulum are synchronous, or recur at equal intervals whether great or small.