The South of France-East Half Part 45

The vin ordinaire given at the restaurants of Florence is princ.i.p.ally the Vino Monteferrata, which, when two or three years old, resembles an inferior dry claret. In Savoy and Tuscany large flat cakes are made of ground chestnuts. They are sold hot, have a sweetish taste, and are very nouris.h.i.+ng to those who can digest them.

Excursion to Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and Alvernia to the east of Florence. (See Map on page 199.)

To Vallombrosa. Take rail to Ponta.s.sieve, 13 miles east from Florence, pop. 11,000. _Inn:_ Italia; where hire coach for Pelago, 6 miles east.

Fare, 6 fr. Pelago (pop. 2000). _Inn:_ Buon Cuore; whence mule, 5 fr., guide, 2 fr., to Vallombrosa, 8 miles south. Or coach as far as Tosi, about 5 miles from Pelago, and the rest by mule or on foot. At Ponta.s.sieve a carriage for two at 12 fr. per day, or for four at 20 fr. per day, may be hired for visiting the three sanctuaries. Having visited Vallombrosa, return to Pelago, and proceed to Bibbiena, 15 miles east, by the Consuma, Borgo alla Collina, and Poppi, 4 miles from Bibbiena. From Bibbiena mules or horses must be hired for Alvernia, 2 hours distant. From Alvernia a fatiguing path leads to Camaldoli, in about 6 hours. The better plan is to go to Camaldoli from Bibbiena, distant 4 miles northwards from Bibbiena.

[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO.]

A little beyond Pelago the road to Vallombrosa begins to ascend the Apennines, disclosing in the ascent many charming views of hills crowned with villas, and mountains covered with evergreen oaks, intermingled with bare perpendicular cliffs, and roaring torrents tumbling from the crags. _Vallombrosa_ is situated 2980 feet above the sea, on the side of Mt. Protomagno, which rises 2340 feet higher.

Although the scenery does not agree altogether with Milton's description in _Paradise Lost_, book iv. lines 131-159, it possesses that charming loveliness which inspired the divine poet with the ideas conveyed in these lines. The steep acclivity is clothed with a "woody theatre" of stateliest chestnuts, oaks, firs, and beeches, which in ranks ascend, waving one above the other, shade above shade; or hang from the very brows of precipices, whose verdant sides are with thicket overgrown, grotesque, and wild. "Higher than their tops" an occasional glade breaks the uniformity of the sylvan scene, while on the summit expands a wide gra.s.sy down with enamelled colours mixed, from which there is a "prospect large" over foliaged hills, and the wild, bleak, sterile mountains of Camaldoli and Alvernia. The church and convent were erected in 1637. The latter is now occupied partly by a forestry school and partly by an inn. Nearly 300 feet higher, by a winding path, is Il Paradisino, a little hermitage romantically situated on a projecting rock commanding a grand view. The scagliola decorations in the chapel were by an Englishman, Father +Hugford+, who excelled in various branches of natural philosophy, and in the art of imitating marble by that composition called scagliola. He died in the last century. The ascent to the summit of the Protomagno occupies 1 hour; guide 2 fr. The road to Camaldoli winds round the mountain that shelters Vallombrosa on the north side, and then descends into the Val d'Arno Inferiore. On a knoll, encircled with trees in the middle of the plain, is the n.o.ble now ruined castle of Romena, and behind it the villages of Poppi and Bibbiena.

[Headnote: CAMALDOLI--SACRO EREMO. ALVERNIA.]

The abbey of _Camaldoli_, founded by S. Romualdo, a Calabrian anchorite, in 1046, is situated on the torrent Giogana, in a valley surrounded by high mountains. About 2 miles above the monastery, on a hill to the north, by a zig-zag path through the forest, is Il Sacro Eremo, the hermitage of the convent. The church is neat, and possesses an Annunciation in relief by Robbia. From the culminating point of the ridge, the Prato al Soglio, is one of the finest views in this part of Italy. About 14 miles from Camaldoli, on +Mons Alvernus+, a lofty rock towering above the neighbouring eminences, and split into numberless pinnacles of fantastic forms, full of grottoes and galleries hollowed out by nature, is situated the convent of _Alvernia_, founded by St.

Francis in 1213, and inhabited by about 110 monks. From the church a covered gallery leads to the cave with the chapel of the Stemmate, in which St. Francis is said to have received, imprinted on his body, marks similar to those produced on Jesus Christ by the crucifixion.

From Camaldoli and from Alvernia return to Bibbiena, where the diligence may be taken to Arezzo, pop. 12,000, whence rail either to Rome, 141 miles south, or to Florence, 54 miles north-west. The drive from Ponta.s.sieve to Florence, by the Arno, is very beautiful.

+Florence+ is 291 m. S.E. from Turin by Pistoja, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Piacenza, and Alessandria. Time by quick trains, 13 hrs. 1st cla.s.s, 52 frs. 95 c.; 2d cla.s.s, 37 frs. 5 c. See Black's _South France_, East half, page 233.

Florence is 196 m. N. from Rome by Arezzo, Terontola, Chiusi, Orvieto, and Orte. 8 hrs. by quick train. 1st cla.s.s, 34 frs. 30 c.; 2d cla.s.s, 23 frs. 55 c. Florence is 60 m. E. from Leghorn by Empoli, Pontedera, and Pisa. 2 hrs. 20 min. by quick train. 1st cla.s.s, 10 frs. 45 c.; 2d cla.s.s, 7 frs. 15 c. See the "Indicatore Ufficiale." To the price given in the Indicatore the amount of the tax has to be added.

[Headnote: BUSALLA. NOVI.]

+Genoa to Turin by Alessandria and Asti.+

Distance, 103 m. N.W. Time by quick trains, 4 hrs. Map, page 199.

+Genoa.+--The train after traversing the first tunnel emerges at the busy populous suburb of Sampierdarena, 1 m. W. from Genoa and 2 m. E.

from Sestri-Ponente. The rail now turns northward and ascends the valley of the impetuous torrent of the Polcevera, traversing six tunnels.

Having pa.s.sed Rivarolo, Bolzaneto, and Pontedecimo, the train arrives at Busalla, 14 m. N. from Genoa and 89 m. S. from Turin. Busalla is situated on the culminating part of the line (1192 ft.), on the crest which divides the basin of the Adriatic from the Gulf of Genoa. Here also the gradients of the line are highest, being about 1 in 28 or 35 in 1000. The longest tunnel on the line, the Galleria dei Giovi, 3390 yards, is just before arriving at Busalla. It perforates calcareous schists, and is ventilated by 14 shafts. The scenery, which has been hitherto very picturesque, becomes tame after traversing the last tunnel at Arquata, 26 m. N. from Genoa, in the narrow valley of the Scrivia.

33 m. N. from Genoa, and 70 m. S. from Turin, is Novi, H. La Sirena, a town of 11,000 inhabitants, situated among hills; where, in August 15, 1799, a great battle took place between the French under Joubert and the Austrians and Russians under Suwarrow, when the former were defeated and their general killed. Novi is 60 m. S.W. from Milan by Tortana, Voghera, and +Pavia+.

[Headnote: ALESSANDRIA.]

47 m. N. from Genoa and 56 m. S.E. from Turin is +Alessandria+, pop.

30,000, 234 m. N.W. from Florence by Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja. See Black's _South France_, East half. See map, page 199.

At the Alessandria station hot coffee and chocolate are always ready.

_Hotels:_ L'Universo; Italia; Europa. Alessandria received its name in compliment to Pope Alexander III. The citadel, capable of holding 50,000 men, was built in 1728. The cathedral has a facade in the modern taste, with granite columns; in the interior is a colossal statue of St. Joseph by Parodi. The other churches are the Madonna di Loreto and S. Lorenzo. The Ghilino palace, now belonging to the crown, was designed by the elder Alfieri. Two great fairs are held annually at Alessandria--one in April, the other in October. In the neighbourhood is the village of Marengo, near which took place (June 1800) the battle between the French and the Austrians that was first lost by Bonaparte and afterwards won by Desaix and Kellermann. From Alessandria the train ascends the valley of the Tanaro, pa.s.sing the minor stations of Solero, Felizzano, Cerro, and Annone; then at 34 m.

E. from Turin, and 68 m. N.W. from Genoa, arrives at

[Headnote: ASTI.]

+Asti+ (the _Hasta Pampeia_, or Pompey's Market, of the Latins), a place of 18,000 inhabitants. H. Leone d'Oro. Celebrated for its sparking wines, both red and white. The cathedral is a large and fine Gothic structure (1348). The adjacent church of S. Giovanni is built upon a basilica, of which the existing part is borne by monolithic columns with capitals bearing Christian symbols, 6th cent. Near Porta Alessandria is the small Baptistery of San Pietro, 11th cent., resting on short columns with square capitals. Alfieri, the poet, was born here, in a palace built by his uncle, who was a count and an architect. He died in 1803. The tertiary strata of the neighbourhood are very rich in fossils. Loop-line from Asti to Milan in 3 hrs.

From Asti the train descends by Villafranca, where there is a viaduct over the Standva.s.so, about 100 ft. above the stream. Farther W., at Trofarello, is the junction with the loop-lines to Savona, 82 m. S.

(page 183), and to Cuneo, 46 m. S.W. (page 183).

Five miles S. from Turin is Moncalieri. On the hill-side, overlooking the town, is the large royal palace in which Victor Emmanuel I. died in 1823.

For +Turin+, see Black's _South France_, East half. Loop-line to Pinerolo, 23 m. S.W., and to Torre-Pellice, 10 m. farther west, in the Waldensian valleys. See Black's _South France_, East half.

+Paris to Turin and the Italian Riviera.+

By FONTAINEBLEAU, JOIGNY, DIJON, MACON, BOURG, AMBeRIEUX, CULOZ, AIX-LES-BAINS, CHAMBERY, MODANE, and MONT CENIS. The continuation of this line southwards from Turin extends to Genoa by Alessandria (page 279).

+Part First.+--PARIS TO MODANE, 431 miles. Time by the Rapide, 13 hrs. 36 min. +Part Second.+--MODANE TO TURIN, 58 miles.

Time by Express, 3 hrs. 27 min.

_Time-tables._--In England, see under "London to Turin" in the Continental Time-tables of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, which Company give through tickets. In Paris, start from the station of the Chemins de Fer de Paris a Lyon. At the bookstall buy one of their Time-tables, 40 c. The best resting-places are Dijon, Macon, and Chambery. For the whole route consult the Sketch Map on the fly-leaf.

For the northern part, between Paris and Macon, see map, page 1; and from Macon to Turin, map, page 26.

PART I.--PARIS TO MODANE.

miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{ }{431} +PARIS.+ In front of the departure side of the Chemins de Fer de Lyon Station is the Grand Hotel de l'Univers, and under it a Cafe Restaurant.

A little farther off is Hotel Jules Cesar. Good restaurant also in the station. For the first 274 m. between Paris and Macon, see pages 1 to 26. At Morel junction the Vichy line separates from this one. At Montereau, 49 m. from Paris (p. 10), the Express halts 4 min.; but not the Rapide. At La Roche (p. 14) both the Rapide and the Express halt 5 min. At Tonnerre (p. 17) they halt again 5 min. At Les Laumes (p. 19) the Express halts 5 min. At Dijon (p. 20) both halt 6 min. At Macon (p. 26) they halt 5 min. At Macon the Turin line separates from the Ma.r.s.eilles line, and goes 23 m. E. to Bourg, 297 m. from Paris. At Bourg, in the church of Brou, are sumptuous mausoleums. From Bourg a loop-line traverses a picturesque country by Nantua to Geneva, 97 m. W.

(See map, p. 27; and for description, Black's _France_, North half).

5 m. S.E. from Bourg the line crosses the Ain at the village of Pont-Ain, and afterwards arrives at +Amberieu+, 316 m. S.E. from Paris, and 114 m. N.W. from Modane. At Amberieu the Rapide halts 10 min., and the Express 15 min. Amberieu, pop. 4000, is a pleasant town on the Albarine at the base of the Jura mountains, and connected by rail with Lyon, 32 m. west. From Amberieu another loop-line extends 11 m. S.

through a mountainous country to Montallieu, pop. 2000, with important quarries, on the Fouron near its junction with the Rhone. Between Amberieu and Culoz the rail pa.s.ses through the last ramifications of the Jura mountains. In approaching Culoz it winds round the S. base of Mt.

Colombier, 4733 ft., ascended in 4 hrs. either from Culoz or Artemart.

The view is admirable--on one side the Savoy Alps, with the lakes of Bourget, Annecy, and Geneva; while on the side of France it extends to Lyons and the mountains of Ardeche.

[Headnote: LAGNIEU.]

8 m. S. from Amberieu and 3 m. N. from Montallieu is +Lagnieu+, pop.

3500, station for +La Balme+, pop. 1000, 3 m. S.W., on south side of Rhone. There is a cave here with great galleries and stalact.i.tes, and a lake 130 yards long, 8 yards wide, and 13 ft. deep. It is easily approached from Aix-les-Bains by the Lyons steamboats. Alight at the Salette station, 20 min. walk from the entrance into the grotto.

From Amberieu the train ascends the valley of the Albarine, which, after St. Rambert-de-Joux, 7 m. S.E. from Amberieu, becomes wild and imposing.

At Tenay, _Inn:_ Pittion, 4 m. farther, the train quits the Albarine and traverses a sequestered valley to

[Headnote: VIRIEU LE GRAND. CULOZ.]

+Virieu le Grand+, 340 m. S.E. from Paris, pop. 1100. Junction with loop-line to Belley, 9 m. S., pop. 5000; _Inns:_ Rey; Camus, with important quarries of lithographic stones. 442 m. from Paris and 19 m.

N. from Aix-les-Bains is Artemart, with the falls of Cerveyrieu.

347 m. S.E. from Paris, 14 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains, and 83 m. N.

from Modane, is +Culoz+, on the Rhone, about m. E. from the station, 771 ft. above the sea, pop. 1200. Near the station are the inns *H.

Folliet; H. Memon. A great deal of carriage-changing takes place here.

41 m. N.E. is Geneva; see Black's _North France_, and map p. 26. 4 m.

S. from Culoz and 10 m. N. from Aix-les-Bains is Chatillon, 700 ft.