The South of France-East Half Part 47

His relics are said to have the power of working miracles on children.

In the adjoining cemetery, close to a small chapel, is the grave of Madame de Warrens.

[Headnote: J. J. ROUSSEAU.]

+Excursions.+--The house which Jean Jacques Rousseau inhabited is on the height called the Charmettes, 395 ft. above and 2 m. from Chambery by a pleasant road shaded with walnut and plane trees. It is a mere cottage. The room to the right on entering was the dining-room. It contains in a drawer his watch, opposite the window his bookcase, and hanging on the walls, facing each other, the portraits of himself and of Madame de Warrens. The next room was their sitting-room; here are his card-table and mirror. The room above was madame's bedroom, and the one over the dining-room Rousseau's. From the garden the view extends to the Dent de Nivolet, 4597 ft., ascended from Chambery in between 5 and 6 hrs.; guide advisable. View not equal to that from the Dent du Chat (p. 282). The pretty walk to the Bout du Monde, at the foot of the Dent de Nivolet, by the bank of the Laisse and the gorge of the Doria may be made in little more than an hour. Omnibus in 45 min. to the cold sulphurous iodo-bromuride springs of Challes (p. 284).

miles from PARIS miles to MODANE

{376}{55} +LES MARCHES+, a straggling village at the foot of a hill crowned by the chapel and image of Notre Dame de Myans. To the S.W., 4 hrs. there and back, are the Abimes de Myans, lakes between conical hillocks, formed by a partial landslip of Mt. Granier.

{378}{53} +MONTMeLIAN+, pop. 1200. _Inn:_ Voyageurs. Junction with line to Gren.o.ble, for which change carriages (p. 338).

[Headnote: ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY.]

{358}{45} +ST. PIERRE D'ALBIGNY+, 971 ft. (map, p. 291), pop. 3300, 1 m. from its station. _Inns:_ At station: H. des Voyageurs. In town: Croix-Blanche; Soleil. Junction with line to Albertville, 14 m. N.E., whence diligences to Annecy, 28 m. N., pa.s.sing close by Ugine, 1755 ft., and through Faverges; _Inn:_ Poste. Diligence also to Moutiers and Bourg St. Maurice on the road to the Little St. Bernard, one of the easiest of the Alpine pa.s.ses (see p. 321). From St. Pierre take the N. window of the carriage to have a proper view of the immense cones and pinnacles of calcareous rocks, which tower in many places almost vertically above each other.

These lofty walls afford protection from the chilling blasts to the pretty villages, vineyards, orchards, and maize fields; which places only at a little distance from these mountains do not enjoy. Vineyards cease a little above St. Michel, 2400 ft., but patches with vines may be seen within 3 m. of La Praz. Up to La Praz the mountains are cultivated more or less in terraces. Higher up the valley of the Arc they are too steep and arid.

[Headnote: AIGUEBELLE.]

{332}{39} +AIGUEBELLE+, pop. 1100. H. de la Poste. Village close to station. Arch to Charles Felix. The valley now begins to widen.

{409}{22} +LA CHAMBRE+, pop. 800, on the confluence of the Bugion and the Arc.

Afterwards, to the right, is the valley of the Glandon.

{414}{16} +SAINT-JEAN DE MAURIENNE+, pop. 3200. _Inns:_ Europe; Cheval Blanc; Voyageurs. The cathedral, founded in the 15th cent., contains the mausoleum of Count Humbert, and some beautifully carved stalls. The arcades of the cloister are of alabaster, and were constructed in 1452.

In the neighbourhood are the argentiferous mines of Rocheray and the saline thermal springs of Echaillon.

{421}{10} +ST. MICHEL+, pop. 3000. A village on the Arc, 2323 ft. above the sea-level, in a hollow at the foot of high mountains. _Inn:_ Poste, near the post office. From St. Michel the Alpine region commences. The next station is La Praz, 6 m. from St. Michel, 3140 ft. above the sea.

[Headnote: MODANE.]

{431}{ } +MODANE STATION+, 3445 ft. above the sea, and 727 m. from London, is really part of the village of Fourneaux. Modane is a little farther up, and the train pa.s.ses through it on the way to the tunnel. Large refreshment-room at station. Opposite station--_Inn:_ Hotel International, where comfortable lodgings can be had, as well as carriages to visit the neighbourhood. The river Arc runs by the back of the house. There are also several restaurants. Luggage from France and Italy is examined here. In Italy every pound of registered luggage is charged. The scenery on both the French and Italian sides is beautiful, and the traveller ought to endeavour to pa.s.s through it during the day.

The pa.s.sage through the tunnel is done in 30 minutes. The air is at no part disagreeable. The entrance is 492 ft. above the station, and is reached by a winding railroad of 3-1/10 m., with a gradient of 2 per cent. The highest part of the tunnel is 4380 ft. above the sea, and 5250 ft. below the summit of the ridge perforated.

From Modane the ascent is made of Mont Thabor, 7100 ft. higher than Modane, in 7 hrs., by the Col de la Saume. Descent in 6 hrs., or a little over 5, by Bardonnecchia.

[Headnote: LANS-LE-BOURG. LES TAVERNETTES.]

+Modane to Susa by Mont Cenis.+

From Modane a carriage-road leads over the +Pa.s.s of Mont Cenis+ to Susa, 40 m. distant by Villarodin, pop. 220. On the right bank of the Arc up the valley is Avrieux, where Charles the Bold was poisoned by his doctor. Near this are pa.s.sed the forts Esseillon or Bramans, connected with the road by a steep winding path. 8 m. from Modane is Le Verney, where the road crosses the Arc; 10 m. Solliers; to the left, the valley of the Laisse or Doron; 16, Termignon, pop. 1080, and 4251 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Laisse with the Arc, church with frescoes and a curious belfry; 18 m. Lans-le-Bourg, pop. 1500, consisting princ.i.p.ally of inns, situated on the Arc, 4560 ft. above the sea, at the base of Mont Cenis. After crossing the Arc the ascent of the Pa.s.s is commenced. From Lans-le-Bourg to Susa are twenty-three houses of refuge. At the culminating point, 6882 ft.

above the sea, is the inn Rama.s.se. The road now descends. 13 m. from Susa and 27 from Modane is Les Tavernettes, on a terrace 200 ft. above the lake, which is 1 m. long and 6234 ft. high, and contains good trout. This is one of the best headquarters in the Alps for a naturalist. 10 m. from Susa and 29 m. from Modane is the Hospice of Mont Cenis, on the great plateau. 2 m. farther is the hamlet of La Grande Croix, 6069 ft., on the edge of the plateau, and whence the descent becomes more rapid. 4 m. from Susa is the post-house of Molaret, and about 3 m. more, or 1 from Susa, the hamlet of Giaglione, with splendid views and rich vegetation (Susa, see page 291).

[Map: Mont Cenis Railway: St. Pierre to Courmayeur by the Little St. Bernard. Modane to Susa by Lanslebourg.]

+PART II.--MODANE TO TURIN.+

See Map of Mont Cenis Railway.

miles from MODANE miles to TURIN

{ }{58} +MODANE.+ At Modane pa.s.sengers enter the carriages of the Alta Italia Railway Company.

The Italian time is 47 minutes in advance of the Paris time. The best time-table for Italy is the "Indicatore Ufficiale delle Strade Ferrate," 1 fr.; also a smaller edition, 20 c., sold at all the railway stations. Waiting-room is Sala d'Aspetto. W.-C's., Cessi, or Latrine, or Retirate. For ladies, Cessi per le donne. Smoking carriages, Pei fumatori. Non-smoking carriages, E vietato il fumare.

Way out, Uscita. Way in, Entrata. Station, Stazione or Fermata.

{5}{53} +BARDONNECCHIA+, 4127 ft., pop. 1600. At the station the Albergo della Stazione, and in the town the Hotel de France.

Situated near the Italian end of the tunnel, but in a more fertile country than that above Modane.

{12}{46} +OULX+, pop. 2000, and 3514 ft. high. _Inn:_ Dell' Alpi Cozzie, at the station.

At this pretty little village the road from Briancon, 17 m. S.W. by Mont Genevre, joins the rail. The mountains, which extend from Monte Viso to Mont Cenis, were called the Alpes Cottiae, from King Cottius, who, according to Pliny, reigned over this region some years before the beginning of the Christian era (Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, lib. iii.

cap. 20). Cottius erected the arch of Susa, and also constructed the road from that town over the Cottian Alps, by Oulx to Ebrodunum, now Embrun, on the Durance (see page 343).

{21}{36} +CHIOMONTE+, 2526 ft. Beyond are some charming views.

{25}{33} +MEANA+, 1 m. from Susa, and 325 ft. above it. The train, having traversed beautiful chestnut woods, crosses the Dora and arrives at Bussoleno, 30 m. from Modane, whence a loop-line of 5 m. extends to Susa, 1625 ft., pop. 5000. _Hotels:_ France; Soleil.

This, the ancient Segusium, the chief city of the Segusiani, who inhabited what is now called Savoy, is situated on the Dora, 1625 ft.

above the sea. On the W. side of the town is the Roman Triumphal Arch erected about 8 B.C. in honour of Augustus. It is adorned with Corinthian columns and sculptured friezes on the entablature, but all are in a decayed condition. The cathedral, San Giusto, dates from the llth cent.

12 m. from Bussoleno and 16 from Turin is San Ambrogio station, at the foot of Monte Pirchiriano, 3150 ft. above the sea and 1500 above the plain. On the summit is the convent of S. Michele della Chiusa, founded by Ugone Marino in 966, and finished in 1000. It was partially repaired by Carlo Alberto and Vittorio Emanuele II. The government intend to establish a meteorological station here. A good mule-path leads to the top in about an hour, pa.s.sing the village of S. Pietro, with a good inn, 2617 ft. above the sea.

TURIN,

pop. 264,000, on the Po and the Dora Riparia, 785 ft. above the sea, and 490 m. S.E. from Paris. The city derives its name from the tribe Taurini, who were first the opponents and then the allies of the Romans.

When Hannibal descended from the Alps he destroyed the city, that he might have nothing to dread from its hostility. Having risen speedily from its ruins, it received within its walls the army of reserve of Julius Caesar when he marched against the Gauls. Under the Lombards it was made the capital of a duchy, and became the favourite residence of Queen Theodolinda, who, in 602, built the church of S. Giovanni Battista, now the cathedral of Turin, reconstructed in 1498. Francis I.

so damaged Turin in 1536 that its entire reconstruction became necessary. The streets are wide, clean, and well paved, and pa.s.s through s.p.a.cious squares ornamented with statues and bordered by handsome arcades. The most aristocratic part of Turin is the western end of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. and the streets ramifying southwards from this.

_Hotels._--The *Europa, 19 Piazza Castello. In the same square, and less expensive, is the H. di Londra. This piazza is in the neighbourhood of the princ.i.p.al sights, and is the terminus of the most important trams.

The other first-cla.s.s houses are: the *Torino, opposite the arrival side of the station. The *Liguria, 14 Piazza Bodoni, with one end to the Via Carlo Alberto. Their new house is at 9 Via Madama Cristina, near the English chapel and the Vaudois church. The Liguria is patronised by Messrs. Cook. The H. Feder, 8 Via S. Francesco di Paolo. At 31 and 29 Via Roma, the Angleterre; and the Trombetta. The Albergo Centrale, Via delle Finanze; Bonne Femme (Buona Fama), Via Barbaroux. Less expensive: H. *Suisse; H. Bologna, both opposite arrival side of station; *France et Concorde, Via dell' Accademia Albertina, with one side to the Via di Po; Albergo del Campo di Marte, 40 Via della Providencia; the Dogana Vecchia, 4 Via Corte d'Appello; Albergo del Gran Mogol, 41 Via Lagrange.

_Cabs._--One horse, from 6 A.M. till midnight, the course, 1 fr. First half-hour, 1 fr. First hour, 1 fr. Each successive half-hour, 75 c. The course from midnight to 6 A.M., 1 fr. From the central station to any part of the town, 1 fr. Trunks, 20 c. each. Cabs with 2 horses, fr.

additional. Porters, for carrying each portmanteau from the station to a cab, 2 sous. Each small article, either to cab or to the railway carriage, 1 sou.

[Map: Turin]