The South of France-East Half Part 56

After Embrun the rail pa.s.ses Chateauroux, 3 m. N.E. from Embrun, with a bridge over the ravine of the Rabious, and St. Clement, 3 m.

farther, near the Plan-de-Phazy, a poor village with a bathing establishment supplied by four hot mineral springs.

[Headnote: MONT DAUPHIN.]

51 m. N.E. from Veynes is +Mont Dauphin+, an isolated rock of coa.r.s.e reddish conglomerate rising from the junction of the Guil with the Durance to the height of 3445 ft. above the sea, or 496 ft. above the road, the railway, and the rivers. A carriage-road leads up to the summit, where to the right are large barracks with the stables on the top story. To the left is the promenade, consisting of a group of stunted elms and horse-chestnuts, and immediately above is the village, which, like the other parts of the fort, has an untidy appearance. From the ramparts are magnificent views of valleys and mountains, including Mont Pelvoux. In the village is the inn Univers, and down at the foot of the rock is the inn St. Guillaume.

[Headnote: GUILLESTRE. QUEYRAS. AIGUILLES. ABRIeS.]

2 m. from Mont Dauphin, up the Rioubel, an affluent of the Guil, is the village of Guillestre, 3116 ft., pop. 1000, with an inn and church of the 16th cent. The road now ascends the valley of the Guil, pa.s.sing through La Gorge de Chapelue, bounded by precipices from 700 to 800 ft. high. At the hamlet of Veyr, 9 m. from Mont Dauphin, is a cascade.

3 m. farther up the Guil, at the upper end of the defile, are the fort and village of +Queyras+, 17 m. S. from Briancon and 14 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, with an inn. "In the valleys around Queyras Protestants are numerous, especially in the Val +d'Arvieux+, reached by a road branching off on the left about 1 m. below Chateau Queyras; as well as in the Commune of Molines, and its hamlets, St. Veran, Pierre Grosse, and Fontgillarde. They have churches at Arvieux, St. Veran, and Fousillarde, in all of which service is performed once in three weeks by a pastor who resides alternately for a week in each parish"

(see p. 304, and _Murray_, p. 216). A little higher up the left or S.

bank of the Guil is the Ville-la-Vieille, with a church, 10th cent., and an inn. 18 m. from Mont Dauphin is +Aiguilles+, pop. 700, with an inn, on the right bank of the Guil. 21 m. from Mont Dauphin, and 5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso, is Abries, with an inn and Romanesque church, the highest village in the valley of the Guil.

Although Abries is a convenient halting-place, it is a most unattractive spot as headquarters. 4 m. S.E. from +Abries+ on the Guil is La Monta, with custom-house, where France is left.

For Perosa to Mont Dauphin, see p. 307; Torre-Pellice to Mont Dauphin, p. 306; Saluzzo to Mont Dauphin, p. 308, and map p. 304.

+Mont Dauphin to Saluzzo and Mont Viso+, 65 m. E. From Mont Dauphin a good road extends 21 m. E. to Abries, the highest village in the valley of the Guil, 5 hrs. walk from the foot of Monte Viso. From Abries a mule-path leads over the Col de la Traversette, 9680 ft., on the S. flank of Monte Meida.s.sa, 10,185 ft., to Crissolo, 7 m. E. from the Col. 8 m. beyond by post-road is the village of Paesana, the chief town in the valley, and 1778 ft. above the sea. 5 m. farther E., on the road to Saluzzo, is Sanfront, whence a road strikes off, about 17 m. S., to Sampeyre, 3205 ft., the princ.i.p.al village in the valley of the Vraita. Saluzzo is 14 m. E. by coach from Paesana and 25 m.

N.E. from Sampeyre (see p. 307, and map p. 304).

[Headnote: MONT PELVOUX.]

45 m. N.E. from Gap, and 9 m. N.E. from Mont Dauphin, is +La Bessee+, 3420 ft. above the sea, pop. 1000. _Inn:_ H. de la Poste.

Here pa.s.sengers alight for Mont Pelvoux, and proceed to the village of Val Louise, about 6 m. W. by the Col de la Batie, 3445 ft. (see p. 333). 10 m. N. from La Bessee is Briancon (see p. 333). "Nearly opposite La Bessee to the N.W. opens out the Val Louise, which terminates in the glaciers and peaks of the +Mont Pelvoux+, whose top, rising 12,973 ft. above the sea-level, is visible from the road in clear weather. The Val Louise branches into two; that on the right leads to Mt. Pelvoux. Its summit, or Pic des Arcines, is a ma.s.s of ice. By the other branch there is a difficult pa.s.s, called Col de Celar, into the Val G.o.demar. Within the Val Louise was a cavern called Baume des Vaudois, from a number of these people having concealed themselves within it in 1488, carrying with them their children and as much food as they could collect, relying on its inaccessible position and the snows around for their defence. When the officer despatched by Charles VIII. arrived with his soldiers in the valley, none of its inhabitants could be found; but at length tracing out their hiding-place, he commanded a quant.i.ty of wood to be set fire to at the mouth of the cave to burn or smoke them out. Some were slain in attempting to escape, others threw themselves headlong on the rocks below, others were smothered; there were afterwards found within the caverns 400 infants stifled in the arms of their dead mothers. It is believed that 3000 [French Vaudois] perished on that occasion in this valley. The cavern has fallen, and is nearly buried in the _debris_.

The present inhabitants are all Roman Catholics, and a miserable goitred race." --_Murray_, p. 218.

miles from Ma.r.s.eILLES miles to GREn.o.bLE

{126}{64} +ASPRES+, pop. 2000, 2493 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Ferdinand. Junction with road to Livron, 68 m. W., on E. side of Rhone (see p. 46). The road after leaving Aspres crosses the Col de Cabres, and then proceeds westwards by the valley of the Drome (see p. 47).

{154}{35} +CLELLES+, 2400 ft., pop. 1000. _Inn:_ Lion d'Or. Station to alight at to make the ascent of Mont Aiguille, a limestone rock 6880 ft. high, near Chichiliane, about 7 m. distant towards Die.

{163}{27} +MONESTIER DE CLERMONT+, pop. 1000. _Inns:_ Europe; France. Cold acidulous spring for diseases of the kidneys and stomach.

[Headnote: VIF.]

{177}{13} +VIF+, pop. 3000. At the foot of a calcareous ridge, which connects Mt.

Moucherotte, 7454 ft., with Mt. Moucherolle, 7509 ft.

[Headnote: VIZILLE.]

{181}{9} +VIZILLE+, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Terrat; Europe; Parc. Vizille, the Vigillia of the Romans, is an ill-built manufacturing town on the right bank of the Romanche, with a castle built by Lesdiguieres, now restored and used as a manufactory (see p. 333).

{185}{5} +PONT DE CLAIX+, pop. 2500, at the foot of mountains from 5000 to 6000 ft. high (see p. 328).

{190}{ } +GREn.o.bLE.+ (See p. 324.)

+Paris to Lyons by St. Etienne.+

See fly-leaf, and Map of the Rhone and Savoy, p. 27.

miles from PARIS miles to LYONS

{ }{349} +PARIS.+ For time-tables, see under Paris, Roanne a Lyon par Saint Etienne. For the first 200 miles, between Paris and the important junction of St. Germain-des-Fosses, see pp. 351 to 358.

{220}{129} +ST. GERMAIN-DES-FOSSES.+ All the trains halt here.

{231}{118} +LA PALISSE+, pop. 3000, on the Bebre. The ruined castle on the eminence overlooking the town was built in the 14th century.

{235}{113} +ARFEUILLES+, pop. 3400, on the Barbenant. Fine waterfall, and castle of Montmorillon, 15th cent.

{262}{87} +ROANNE+, pop. 20,000. _Hotels:_ Centre; Commerce; *Nord. A busy, well-built, manufacturing town, on the Loire and the ca.n.a.l of Digoin, possessing many interesting Roman remains. Among the buildings the most noteworthy are--the church of St. Etienne, built in the 15th cent.; the ruins of the ancient feudal castle, and the college built by the Jesuit Cotton, the confessor of Henri IV. The cotton-mills employ 1200 workmen, and the annual value of the produce is 1,120,000. After Roanne, the line to St. Etienne and Le Puy pa.s.ses through a picturesque country among the Cevennes and their offshoots.

{282}{67} +FEURS+, pop. 4000, on the Loire. _Inn:_ Poste. This, the ancient Forum Segusinorum, contains several antiquities, and a church partly of the 12th century. In the neighbourhood is a chalybeate spring, called La Fontaine des Quatre. Many Roman remains.

{297}{51} +SAINT GALMIER+, pop. 3100, on the Coise. _Hotel:_ Poste. Springs of mineral water of great repute, called by the Romans Aquae Segestae. It is exported, and not utilised on the spot (see p. 348).

{312}{37} +SAINT ETIENNE+, 1770 ft. above the sea, pop. 127,000. _Hotels:_ Nord; France; both first-cla.s.s. The Poste; Europe; Des Arts; Paris, are less expensive, and frequented by commercial travellers. From the Europe the diligences start for Annonay. In the Rue de la Paix is the Temple Protestant. East from the temple, in the Rue des Jardins, is the Palais de Justice, a large handsome building.

This great manufacturing town, cold and muddy in winter, and dusty in summer, was founded by the Romans B.C. 56, and from a very early period became famous for forges and the manufacture of cables, ribbons, firearms, and "faence" or crockery. It is situated in the long narrow valley of the Furens, amidst productive coal-beds. One long street, bearing the names of the Rues de Roanne, Paris, Foy, St.

Louis, and Annonay, extends from west to east, dividing the city into two nearly equal parts. Off this street are the princ.i.p.al squares or "Places." In nearly the centre of this street, where it is intersected by the Rue des Jardins and the Rue Royale, leading northwards to the railway station, is the Hotel de Ville, with, at the west end, the Post and Telegraph Offices. On the south side of the part of the street called the Rue St. Louis are: the Theatre, and on the hill behind, the Ecole de Dessin, reached by 53 steps, pa.s.sing an artificial grotto. Above the Ecole, in the Rue St. Barbe, reside some of the many weavers of ribbons, who exhibit their looms with pleasure to visitors. On the summit of this hill is a Capuchin convent and church, surmounted with a gilded image of the Virgin. The road from this convent, down the hill, pa.s.ses the church of St. Etienne, built in the 12th cent., containing some beautiful gla.s.s, and a relief representing the martyrdom of St. Etienne.

[Headnote: MUSEUMS--MANUFACTURES.]

A little to the east, and also on the side of the hill, is the PALAIS DES ARTS, open from 10 to 12 and from 2 to 4. It contains The Picture Gallery, The Museum of Natural History, and complete collections of specimens of the manufactures of St. Etienne. On the ground-floor are the fire arms, labelled and ranged in rows. Under gla.s.s-cases are the separate pieces, from the smallest screw to the barrel; including locks, triggers, cartridges, percussion-caps, shot, and b.a.l.l.s. The centre room upstairs contains the Picture Gallery, nearly all modern.

The most striking is, "Nero beholding the effect of poison on slaves."

On one side of the Picture Gallery is the Natural History Museum, and on the other, collections of ancient tapestry, enamels, cabinets, and furniture. In a separate saloon is the faence, consisting chiefly of plates. In the second storey is the MUSEE DE FABRIQUE. In the centre of the room are models of the ribbon-looms, and round the walls, under gla.s.s, specimens of the ribbons, which, from their small size and arrangement, do not show to advantage. Even the portraits, although most remarkable specimens of silk-weaving, are apt to be pa.s.sed by, as simply very good engravings. Among them is a group in a sitting posture representing the Queen, Prince Albert, and the Prince of Wales, woven by Carquillat, who has several other works of art in this room. In the lower cases, in pattern books, are specimens of all the varied fabrics from the looms of St. Etienne. The annual value of the silk manufactures is estimated at 3,300,000, employing 40,000 workmen and 280,000 spindles (broches), of which 165,000 work organzines and trames, and 114,000 work the silk intended for c.r.a.pes and gauze ribbons. The number of looms has been estimated in all at 65,000 for weaving silks, and 80,000 for ribbons. The coalfields occupy nearly 85 square miles, employ 5000 miners, and produce on an average annually 1,600,000 worth of coal. At the west end of the long street, opposite the gas-works, are the Manufacture d'Armes of the Government, and adjoining their coal-pits (puits). This large establishment is under the superintendence of artillery officers of high rank, and employs about 2800 men. There are, besides, several private gun manufactories throughout the town, which turn out annually as many as 300,000 stand of arms, including pistols and revolvers. The Promenade of St. Etienne is the Cours Fauriel. It adjoins the Jardin des Plantes, and is north from the Place du Palais des Arts, by the straight street, the Rue de la Badouilliere.

[Headnote: ROCHETAILLeE.]

_Excursions._--Nearly 2 m. S. is Valbenoite, pop. 7000, with large hardware manufactories, and the great reservoir of the city called the +Gouffre d'Enfer+. 2 m. farther by the same road is the village of Rochetaillee. This is also the road to take to ascend Mont Pilat.

A carriage-road reaches the length of Bessat, 10 m. from St. Etienne.

Thence a path leads to the farm of the Perdrix, 7 m. farther, where pa.s.s the night. Mont Pilat has two peaks--the Trois Dents, 4480 ft., and the Crete de la Perdrix, 4705 ft.

14 m. by rail from St. Etienne is the St. Galmier station, 1260 ft.

above the sea (see p. 346). An omnibus awaits pa.s.sengers for the town, 1 m. distant, on a hill 200 ft. above the station. It is a poor place with poor inns, the Commerce and Voyageurs. At the foot of the hill are the mineral springs and the establishments for bottling the water.

The springs are at a considerable distance below the surface, reached by deep shafts, like the "Source Remy," cased with masonry, and furnished with spiral staircases.

From Roannes (p. 346), on the St. Galmier branch line, an omnibus starts for St. Alban, 6 m. distant, with a hotel and bathing establishment possessing cold acidulous chalybeate springs.

Nearer St. Germains, at the station of St. Martin d'Estreaux, a coach awaits pa.s.sengers for Sail-les-Bains, 3 m. from the station. The bath-house has a hotel of its own. The establishment is supplied by six springs containing bicarbonate of soda, sulphur, and iron.