The South of France-East Half Part 62

[Headnote: ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC.]

{318}{211} +ST. GEORGES-D'AURAC+, 1872 ft. above the sea. _Inn:_ Lombardin, near the station. Change carriages for Le Puy, 32 m. E., and for St. Etienne 54 m. farther. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.)

[Headnote: LANGEAC.]

{323}{207} +LANGEAC+, pop. 4800. _Inns:_ H. Lombardin; Pascon. (See p. 91, and map p. 46.) Between Langeac and Langogne the train pa.s.ses through a most picturesque country. Rich vegetation amidst vast ma.s.ses of basalt, either continuous or isolated, either rugged or grooved with pentagonal columns; sometimes also rent into deep dark ravines, between vertical cliffs of which the eye just catches a glance while being hurried past in the train. 3 m. S. from Langeac is Chanteuges, 1800 ft., pop. 1000, on an eminence above the station. The fortified tower, the remains of the old abbey, is well seen from the rail. Just before arriving at the next station, Chazes, 8 m. S. from Langeac, is an interesting church, 11th cent., against a rock. Then follow the stations of Monistrol-d'Allier, 2000 ft. (p. 91); Alleyras, 2195 ft.; and Jonchure, 2238 ft.

[Headnote: LANGOGNE.]

{364}{165} +LANGOGNE+, 2940 ft. above the sea, pop. 4000. _Inns:_ Cheval Blanc; Chambon. Pleasantly situated on the Langouyrou. All the trains halt here. (See pp. 88 and 94, and map p. 46.) 7 m. farther S. is Luc station, 2900 ft.; and 4 m. farther S., La Bastide, 3070 ft., the culminating point of the line. A few miles to the W. of the station is the source of the Allier. At Prevencheres, 6 m. S., the station is only 2580 ft. above the sea. The line now pa.s.ses by immense rocks and cliffs of granite.

{390}{140} +VILLEFORT+, 1820 ft., pop. 2000. A poor village on the Deveze, in a deep valley at the foot of Mt. Lozere. Diligences at this station for Mende, pa.s.sing through, at about half-way, Bagnols les Bains, 23 m. W.

+Bagnols les Bains+, pop. 500. _Inns:_ Lacombe; Des Bains; Midi.

A poor village 3087 ft. above the sea, at the confluence of the Villaret and the Lot. It has a thermal establishment supplied by an unctuous and clear water, temperature 100 Fahr., efficacious in rheumatic affections, cutaneous diseases, bruises, etc. In the neighbourhood are pleasant excursions, good fis.h.i.+ng in the Lot, and plenty of game on the mountains.

From Villefort to Alais the line penetrates a very mountainous country by numerous tunnels and viaducts. At +La Grande Combe+, with the two stations of La Levade and La Pise, the important coal, iron, and zinc mines commence which extend to Alais.

[Headnote: ALAIS.]

{419}{111} +ALAIS+, pop. 22,000, on the Gardon. _Hotels:_ Commerce; *Luxembourg; Champagne. Situated, like Sainte Cecile, La Levade, La Pise, and Tamaris, among coal-fields, iron-works, and manufactories. This is the best station from which to enter the mountainous regions of Lozere, traversed easily by diligences corresponding with each other. Some very capital wine is made at Alais.

Junction at Alais with the branch line extending 62 m. N.E. to Teil (see p. 96, and map p. 56); also to Laudun, 35 m. E. (see p. 99, and map p. 56).

{450}{80} +NiMES+ (see p. 101, and map p. 66).

{467}{63} +TARASCON+ (see p. 66, and map p. 66).

{470}{60} +ARLES+ (see p. 68, and map p. 66).

{499}{30} +ST. CHAMAS+ (see p. 76, and map p. 66).

{512}{17} +ROGNAC+ (see p. 77, and map p. 66).

{518}{12} +PAS-DES-LANCIERS.+

{530}{ } +Ma.r.s.eILLES+ (see p. 111, and map p. 123).

[Headnote: ROYAT. ST. MART.]

miles from CLERMONT miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

+Clermont-Ferrand to Brive-la-Gaillard+,

122 m. W. by rail, pa.s.sing Royat 3 m., Durtol 5 m., Volvic 12 m., Vauriat 17 m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., Pont-Gibaud 24 m., La Miouze-Rochefort 28 m., Bourgheade-Herment 35 m., Laqueuille 40 m., Meymac 73 m., and Tulle 105 m. S.W. from Clermont and 16 m. N.E. from Brive.

From Clermont station the train describes a semicircle as it ascends the highly-cultivated vineclad mountains rising from Clermont. The first station is Royat, with the hotels Univers; Monnet; Nice; St. Mart, adjoining the Casino; Grand Hotel; Continental Hotel. On the road up to Royat are H. Chaba.s.siere; Victoria; Paix; Paris; Europe; Lyons. Higher up beyond the hotels is the village of Royat. The parish church, founded in the 7th cent, and rebuilt in the 10th and 11th, was heightened and fortified in the 12th cent. In the centre of the transept is a low tower, square in the first stage and octagonal in the second. Under the small chancel, raised 5 ft. above the floor of the nave, is a crypt supported on six colonnettes.

In the "Place" is a crucifix of lava erected in 1486. At the back of J. C. is Mary with the child, and the apostles standing on consoles. The narrow steep road from in front of the Mary side leads down to the Grotte des Sources, a cave in basalt, whence gush forth sundry springs of crystal water. Only those, however, are seen which are allowed to flow into the receptacle used by the washerwomen; the others are led to Clermont, where they supply the fountains. The road, after crossing the Tirtaine, enters the territory of St. Mart. In the lower part of the valley, in a small park on the right side of the Tirtaine, is the bathing establishment, supplied by five springs, of which the most important is the Eugenie, which rises in front of the establishment; temperature, 100 Fahr. The princ.i.p.al ingredients are the chlorate of sodium, mixed with the bicarbonates of lime, soda, and magnesia, and a little iron. The baths are made of volcanic tufa. The charge is from 1 fr. to 2 frs. according to the season.

Besides the hotels already mentioned there are around the establishment the H. St. Mart; the H. Splendide; Bains; Bristol, all large first-cla.s.s houses. On the road up the left bank of the Tirtaine are the Louvre; Richelieu; Belle Vue; France et Angleterre; Sources. St. Mart is 1 m.

from Clermont by omnibus, pa.s.sing through Chamalieres. A great variety of excursions in the neighbourhood.

miles from CLERMONT miles to Ma.r.s.eILLES

{5}{117} +DURTOL+, situated among high wooded mountains.

[Headnote: VOLVIC. PONT-GIBAUD.]

{12}{109} +VOLVIC.+ In the neighbourhood of the station are large quarries of lava, the produce of the extinct crater Puy de la Nugere, 3261 ft.

Through the gap in the hill in front of the station is an excellent view of Riom, 3 m. E. from Volvic by coach. Volvic, pop. 4000, is partly on an eminence at the foot of Le Puy de la Banniere. The parish church dates from the 13th cent. Quarrying, stonecutting, and agriculture are the princ.i.p.al industries (see p. 369).

The train still ascending pa.s.ses Vauriat 17 m., St. Ours-les-Roches 20 m., and then arrives at the station for Pont-Gibaud, pop. 1300, 24 m.

distant. _Inns:_ H. Johannel; H. Beraud. Their omnibuses await pa.s.sengers. Pont-Gibaud and its castle, 14th cent., are situated on the Sioule, which traverses by a deep ravine a bed of lava from the crater of Puy de Dome. Near the castle are the smelting-houses of the important argentiferous mines in the neighbourhood.

[Headnote: LAQUEUILLE.]

{40}{81} +LAQUEUILLE+, 3624 ft. above the sea. Change here for Mont-Dore-les-Bains 10 m. S.E., and for Bourboule 8 m. S.W. The beautiful mountain-road to Mont Dore pa.s.ses through at about halfway the village of Le Quaire, 3620 ft. above the sea. Immediately below Le Quaire is Bourboule. The road to Bourboule pa.s.ses through the village of St. Sauves, 2838 ft. above the sea.

+MONT-DORE-LES-BAINS+

is situated among high mountains, in the narrow valley of the Dordogne, 3402 ft. above the sea. _Hotels._--Considering the style of their furniture and of the meals, they are rather dear. The charge in the first-cla.s.s houses is from 12 to 18 frs. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, two meals with wine and service. The difference in the price is caused by the position of the room. Around the "Place" of the bathing establishment are the first-cla.s.s houses, Chabaury aine; Paris; Poste. By the side of the Casino, the H. du Parc and the Grand Hotel, which last charges from 16 to 21 frs. as it is rather better furnished. Around these hotels are what may be considered second-cla.s.s houses, but if no agreement is made they are apt to charge as much as those of the first cla.s.s: H. Bardet-Chanonat; H. Boyer-Bertrand; the Paix, open all the year; H. Ramade; H.

Parisien; France; Nord; Madeuf-Baraduc; Thermes. The Casino is a handsome edifice, the greatest part being occupied by the theatre and the halls connected with it. The Mineral Bath Establishment and the Inhaling Establishment occupy two sides of the princ.i.p.al square; the other two are occupied by the first-cla.s.s hotels.

The bathing establishment is slightly lugubrious; otherwise it is well adapted for the cure or alleviation of the diseases it professes to treat. The springs for drinking are arranged in the vestibule just within the entrance. In the right-hand corner is the Source de la Madeleine or Bertrand, temperature 113 Fahr. Besides containing the usual quant.i.ty of the a.r.s.eniate of soda, about one-thousandth part in two pints, it contains more than any of the other springs of the bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia. Next it is the Source Ramond, temperature 107, containing the greatest quant.i.ty of iron. It rises in an octagonal basin built of large stones by the Romans. Then the Source Cesar, temperature 113, used chiefly for baths. Towards the left-hand end is the Source Sainte Marguerite, temperature 55, used at table mixed with the wine.

Among the baths there are five upstairs supplied directly from some little springs which rise through the fissures of the rock. The flow in and out is constant. These baths are made of stone; all the others are of iron. Besides the usual appliances for making the water act upon the more delicate parts of the body, there are also elaborate arrangements for foot-bathing and for douching the nose.

The tariffs of everything at Bourboule and Mont-Dore depend on the month. The hotels, baths, casinos, etc., are at their dearest during July, the height of the season. An ordinary bath with towels costs then 2 frs., at other times 1 fr.; a nose douche, 50 c. to 75 c.

Baths from 92 to 100 should be continued from 30 to 40 minutes; from 109 to 112, from 10 to 15 minutes. The charge for drinking the water in July is 10 frs., in other months 5 frs. The men who carry the sedan-chairs between the hotels and the establishment are paid by tickets bought at the office of the baths.

[Map: Environs of Mont Dore and La Bourboule.]