An Historical Journal of the Transactions at Port Jackson and Norfolk Island Part 31

Onrust is surrounded by guns, and there is a kind of citadel on it; but as no troops are kept there, in the war, the carpenters were trained to the use of great guns.

It is supposed that Onrust is more healthy than Batavia, and it may be so; but when I say that twenty men are constantly employed in making coffins for those who die on this island, it cannot be supposed to have a very healthy scite.

During my stay at Batavia, I lived at the hotel, which was the governor-general's house at the time Captain Cooke was here: it is a large and s.p.a.cious building, divided into two parts, one of which is occupied by strangers, and the other by Dutch. Every person, who is a stranger, is obliged to live at this hotel: the terms are three rix-dollars a day, for which you have good lodging, and a well furnished table is provided. Grat.i.tude induces me to say, that I received the greatest attention and civility from many of the first people at Batavia, who, not content with showing me every politeness in their power during my stay there, extended their good offices to me after my departure.

On the 21st of July, the _Snelheid_, a packet of 140 tons, belonging to the company, arrived at Onrust, and I made application to the governor and council for a pa.s.sage to Europe in that vessel: on this, the captain of the packet was ordered to receive me, for which I paid 190 rix-dollars into the company's chest. The order to the captain specified, that in consideration of that sum being paid, I was to have a pa.s.sage to Europe in the Snelheid, and to be accommodated and victualled as a sailor: I therefore found myself necessitated to make a further agreement with the captain for the use of half of his cabin, (Mr. Andrew Millar, late commissary of stores and provisions at Port Jackson having the other half) for which I was to pay him 300 rix-dollars, and my proportion of what provisions were laid in by him, above what the company allowed.

Being informed that the packet would be dispatched in a few days, I went to Onrust on the 31st, in order to be in readiness.

Lieutenant Ball expected to sail for Port Jackson on the 8th of August, and the snow which he had taken up was to be dispatched on the 24th.

The captain of the packet having received his final orders, we sailed from Onrust on the 4th of August; and in the evening of the 5th, were clear of the streights of Sunda.

It was now that the pestiferous air of Batavia began to show itself; for the vessel had not been five days at sea before six men were taken ill with the putrid fever; and very soon afterwards, the captain, his two mates, and all the sailors, except four, were incapable of getting out of their beds; and what aggravated the horror of this situation was, that the surgeon, who indeed knew very little of his profession, was so ill that he could not even help himself.

In this dilemma, I found it absolutely necessary to use every means for self-preservation; and having obtained the consent of the captain (who was not yet delirious) and the chief mate, I spoke to the only four men who were well, and represented to them, that going below would subject them to the infection; I a.s.sured them that I would never go below myself, except on extraordinary occasions, when I should use every precaution against the infection; and I further observed, that the preservation of our lives and the vessel, with the recovery of those who were sick, depended on their conforming to my orders; and that I hoped, with G.o.d's a.s.sistance, not only to preserve them in health, but to get the vessel into a port.

They promised me implicit obedience, and I began to make a tent on the after part of the quarter deck, for us to lie under.

I had great difficulty to make them relinquish the drams of new arrack, of which they got ten a day; but this was effected, and in lieu of it, I gave to each man three large wine gla.s.ses of port wine, with two tea-spoons full of bark in each gla.s.s: fortunately, I had a small supply of those articles, as there were not any medicines on board. Three of the sick men soon died of the putrid fever, their faces being covered with purple spots: I ordered them to be lashed up in their hammocks, and hove overboard with their cloaths, making those who performed that office, wash themselves very freely with vinegar, and fill their noses with tobacco. The captain was now delirious, as were most of those who were sick.

On the 12th, I obtained the captain and chief mate's consent to bear up for the Isle of France, when we should get into the lat.i.tude of it. The chief mate's complaint terminating in an intermitting fever, I prevailed on him to lie under the tent; and by a plentiful administration of bark and port wine, he became able to keep a day watch.

On the 14th, my friend and companion Mr. Millar was taken ill, and the captain and most of the sailors were dying, not having had any medicine administered to them during their illness: three or four among them, of a strong const.i.tution, were in a state of raving madness, uttering dreadful imprecations against the doctor, so that I was obliged to order them to be lashed in their hammocks, and they died a few days afterwards.

Being in 18 46' south lat.i.tude, and 80 59' east longitude, after some persuasion, the chief mate consented to bear up for the Isle of France; it may, indeed, be thought strange that he should hesitate one moment in our present distressing situation: however, going to the Isle of France did not destroy the hopes he had formed, when he objected to bearing up. Between the 12th and the 27th, five men died; and on the 28th, Mr. Millar departed this life: the whole were carried off by a most malignant putrid fever.

On the 29th, we made the Island of Mauritius, and anch.o.r.ed the same day at the entrance of the north-west harbour. The captain and three sailors died as we were carrying them on sh.o.r.e.

Most providentially, we had a succession of the finest weather and the fairest winds we could have wished, from the time we left the streights of Sunda until our arrival at the Isle of France; and another great consolation was, that the vessel was perfectly tight.

From the direction of the wind being at south-east, all vessels going to the north-west harbour, must luff close round the gunner's quoin, and haul over for the island, taking care to avoid the reefs with which the sh.o.r.e is lined, and on which the surf breaks with great violence. A continuation of forts and batteries extend from the harbour's mouth as far as it is possible for any vessel to fetch; though, independent of these forts, landing here must be attended with much danger, from the constant surf which breaks on the reefs already mentioned; and as the wind always blows out of the harbour, every vessel is obliged to warp in. No vessel ought to touch at this island during the hurricane months*, as the harbour cannot afford shelter for more than six or eight vessels. In 1788, six large s.h.i.+ps were wrecked in this harbour.

[* October, November, and December.]

At this time there were lying in the harbour, _La Thetis_, of 38 guns, commanded by Compte M'Namarra, Chef de Division; _La Nymphe_, 38 guns, Le Compte de Forineaux, Chef de Division; _La Medusa_, 38 guns, Le Compte de Rossilly; three American vessels, and a great number of French merchant s.h.i.+ps.

The revolution of this island, which had taken place about three weeks before our arrival, was attended with great excesses by the people, who carried Le Compte M'Namarra to the gallows, where he was near being executed. The governor, _Le Compte de Conway_, had resigned his government to a Monsieur _De Caussigny_, commandant of Bourbon, who arrived here only three days before us. Monsieur de Conway waited the equipment of La Nymphe frigate, in which s.h.i.+p he proposed returning to France.

The town of Port Louis is large, and covers a deal of ground, but the houses are in general paltry buildings. Here are large stores, and every thing necessary for the equipment of fleets.

The number of inhabitants on the island, exclusive of the military, is about 8000; and blacks, 12,000.

Fresh provisions, especially butchers meat, are very scarce here; what there is costs 20 sous per pound; but turtle is procured from _St. Branden_, and sold at a much cheaper rate.

The general object of cultivation on this island is the indico, of which from four to five crops a year are procured: one person sent to Europe 30,000 lb. in 1789, of a very superior quality. Attempts have been made here to rear cochineal, as the island abounds with the plant which the insects lie on, but a small bird destroys the insect. The soil of this island is little superior to that at Port Jackson. At the distance of three leagues from the port, is _le gardin du Roi_, which is kept with the utmost care: a gardener lives here at the King's expence, who rears the plants, and distributes them, gratis, to the colonists. This year the following plants were to be distributed to those who chose to ask for them.

300 True acacias.

150 Bibeaux.

84 Avocayers.

10 Baobabs.

180 Bibaciers.

80 Bilembiers.

300 Badamiers.

17 Brindaonniers.

86 Cocoa-nut trees.

50 Camphor trees.

104 Caneficiers.

148 Caramboliers aigres.

50 Ditto doux.

10 Quince trees.

200 Dolbiers.

20 Foccias.

4163 Clove trees.

50 Illipes.

50 Jamiers.

12 Jaquiers, large kind.

8 Jambou--boles.

3000 Jambou--rosadiers.

92 Lataniers nains de la chine.

23 Longaniers.

20 Lit-chis, grosse espee.

36 Sapotes, negros de Moluquas.

30 Tata-mapacas of Madagascar.

3000 Small voakoas.

80 Mangostans.

56 Molavis.

1544 Nutmeg trees.

218 Sweet oranges.

4 Peach trees.

50 Perchers.

40 Rangoustans.

400 Rouffias.

40 Savonniers des Antillas.

80 Spirceas de la China.

300 Sagoutiers.

145 Wova-jourindis of Madagascar 40 Wouau guasailliers.

It should be observed, that 550 of the nutmeg trees were reserved for _Cayenne, St. Domingo, Martinico_, and the Seyehilles.

I cannot omit mentioning the great civilities I received from Messieurs De Conway, M'Namarra, Fourneaux, Rossilly, and in short all the respectable people here, who all did their utmost to persuade me to take my pa.s.sage in La Nymphe frigate: Monsieur de Fourneaux very politely offered me half his cabin, and no inducement was wanting to make me accept it; besides, there was a probability of the fever not being totally eradicated in the packet; but as I heard of a misunderstanding between England and Spain; I thought it my duty to remain with that vessel. I mention this circ.u.mstance for no other reason than to express my grat.i.tude to the above officers for their polite attention to me during my short stay at this island.

The packet being thoroughly cleansed, and a fresh crew entered, which was composed of all nations, we sailed on the 21st of September, having only four sailors on board out of the twenty-six, which came from Batavia, the rest being either dead, or left at the hospital with little hopes of recovery.

Nothing material happened during our pa.s.sage from the Isle of France until our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 9th of October. Here I found Lieutenant Riou waiting for orders from England. As I understood that all vessels belonging to the Dutch Company were strictly forbid stopping at any port, or having communication with any vessels during their pa.s.sage from the Cape to Amsterdam, I wrote a letter to Mr. Van de Graff, the Dutch governor, representing my being charged with dispatches, and requesting that the captain might be permitted to heave the vessel to, off the most convenient port in the English channel, in order to land me with the dispatches: this request he very readily granted, giving the captain an order for that purpose, and furnis.h.i.+ng me with a copy of it.

Five large French s.h.i.+ps put in here loaded with slaves from the east coast of Africa, and bound to the West-Indies. On the 20th of October, La Nymphe frigate arrived here from the Isle of France, and the same day the packet sailed. On the 2d of November, we pa.s.sed the Island of St. Helena, with a strong gale at south-east; and on the 7th, we saw the Island of Ascension. We crossed the equator in 20 18' longitude west of London. The south-east trade carried us as far as 5 north lat.i.tude, when we got the north-east trade, which did not come to the eastward of north-east until we got near the western islands.

After a pleasant voyage of two months from the Cape of Good Hope, I arrived in England on the 20th of December, having been absent on the public service, in various stations, and in different places, in the southern hemisphere, three years and seven months.