An Historical Journal of the Transactions at Port Jackson and Norfolk Island Part 5

There was reason to conjecture, from this difference on the opposite tacks, that the leak was somewhere about the starboard bow, and near the surface of the water, and if it proved so, I had a hope that we might, the first moderate weather, with smooth water, be able to come at and stop it. I was the more sanguine in this expectation, as the carpenter, in a few days after, discovered it to be under the after part of the fore-channel, a little below the surface of the water; and seemed to think it proceeded from one of the b.u.t.t-bolts being corroded by the copper, which I now understood had never been taken off since the s.h.i.+p's being first sheathed, which was now more than eight years.

On the 6th, the weather cleared up, and both Mr. Bradley and myself had a few distances of the sun and moon, by which our longitude was 157 10' east, by the time-keeper 156 55'

east, and by account 156 17' east; the lat.i.tude 34 49'

south; variation per Azimuth 11 40' east. At noon, the wind got round to east and east by north, with which I steered south-south-east; still favouring our endeavours to get to the southward; it next came to north-east and north, and in lat.i.tude 40 33' south, it came to north-west, but the weather still continued squally and unsettled. As the weather began now to be rather cold, and as in the track I meant to prosecute my voyage by I might expect to have it considerably colder, and consequently the s.h.i.+p's company would require a s.h.i.+ft of cloathing, slops were served to all who stood in need of them.

On the 9th, we were near as far to the southward as Van Diemen's Land, or South Cape of New Holland; and the wind being apparently settled in the south-west quarter, I steered a course for the south cape of New Zealand. From Port Jackson to Van Diemen's Land we had run parallel to the coast, at the distance of 60 leagues from it, and have not seen any thing; so that we may venture to say, that there are no islands lie off that part of the coast, at the above distance from it. On the afternoon of this day (9th) we had several good setts of distances of the sun and moon, by which our longitude was 157 26' east, by the time-keeper 157 19' east, and by account 157 48' east; the lat.i.tude 43 30' south; the thermometer was now 57.

On the 12th, we pa.s.sed the south cape of New Zealand, but the weather being very hazy and squally, we did not attempt to make it, but kept a degree and a half to the southward of it; here we met with vast numbers of birds of various kinds, mostly aquatic, such as albatrosses, pentada birds, divers, peterels, and a variety of gulls; some of a kind I had not before seen during the voyage, very large, of a dark brown or mouse colour; and another sort not quite so large, with a white body, dark wings, and the head of a light blue or lead colour: much sea-weed was also seen here in very large patches.

We now had the wind fresh from the north-west quarter, with frequent squalls, attended with rain, and the weather cold. We found the variation of the compa.s.s 40 leagues south-south-east from the south cape of New Zealand, to be 16 54' east. Mr.

Worgan, the surgeon, having recommended the essence of malt to be served at this time to the s.h.i.+p's company, a certain quant.i.ty of wort was made every morning, and a pint served to each man.

On the 15th, by an observation of the moon's distance from the star aquila, our longitude was 171 16' east, the lat.i.tude was 50 45' south, and the variation of the compa.s.s 16 20' east; longitude by the time-keeper 171 32' east, and by account 172 10' east. From this time to the 22d, we had light and variable winds, sometimes from the south and south-east, and sometimes from the northward, with moist and hazy weather.

On the 22d, the wind inclined from the westward, and the weather became fair; we had this day a set of distances of the sun and moon, which gave our longitude 182 46' east, the time-keeper 182 37' east, and the account 184 10' east; the lat.i.tude 51 03' south; the variation was now 13 45' east, and the thermometer 48. For three successive days we had lunar observations, by which it appeared that the reckoning a few days before had been more than a degree and a half to the eastward of the observations and time-keeper; but by our last distances of the sun and moon (26th) the s.h.i.+p was gaining on the account; these differences seem wholly to proceed from the sea, occasioned by the prevailing winds for the time; the easterly variation was decreasing, being now only 11 00' east, in lat.i.tude 52 42' south, and longitude 196 11' east. We now very frequently heard the divers in the night, and as often saw them in the day; it is really wonderful how these birds get from or to the land, at such an immense distance from it as from 800 to 1000 leagues: they undoubtedly lay their eggs, and hatch them on sh.o.r.e, and yet we plainly perceived that those we met were of the penguin kind, and could not fly: from the slow progress such a bird can make in the water, it might be supposed that it would take them many years (were instinct to point out the direct and shortest course for them) before they could possibly reach any land, unless there are islands in these seas, and not far from our track, which have not yet been discovered.

I endeavoured, in sailing from New Zealand to Cape Horn, to keep as much as possible in a parallel between the tracks of the Resolution and Adventure; so that if any island lay between the parallels in which these s.h.i.+ps sailed, we might have a chance of falling in with them. We have bad very variable weather for some days past, with equally variable winds, and a confused jumble of a sea, which the very frequent s.h.i.+fting of the wind occasioned.

On the 2d of November, by a lunar observation, we were in longitude 214 27' east; the time-keeper gave 214 19'

east, and by account 213 02' east; the lat.i.tude 55 18'

south, the variation was here 11 00' east, and the height of the thermometer was 50. From the 2d to the 6th, we had the winds from north by west to north-north-east: on the 6th and 7th, we had very good observations for the longitude by the sun and moon; the former gave 223 57' east, and the latter 227 58' east; the longitude by account was 226 20' east, the lat.i.tude 56 12' south: the variation increased again, being in this situation 12 20' east, thermometer 46.

From the 7th until the 17th, the weather was very variable, and the wind very unsettled, between the south-east and south-west quarters, attended with strong gales and dark hazy weather, with frequent showers of snow and hail; the thermometer was down at 42 in the cabin, where we sometimes had a fire, but in the open air it was at 35; the showers were commonly accompanied with heavy gusts or squalls of wind. Notwithstanding we were, with these winds from the southward, subject to snow and hail, yet we frequently found that some of the gales which had blown from the northward were attended with a more piercing degree of cold. On the 18th, the weather became more moderate and fair, and the wind s.h.i.+fted to west, with a moderate breeze: we were now in longitude 261 50' east, and lat.i.tude 55 23'

south, and had 14 43' east variation. On the 19th, we found that the variation had increased, in a run to the eastward of 25 leagues, to 17 30' east.

On the 22d, we had several good distances of the sun and moon, and found our longitude to be at noon 280 22' east, by the time-keeper 281 08' east, and by account 283 09' east; the lat.i.tude was 57 15' south; the variation of the compa.s.s increased very fast as we approached Cape Horn, being now 20 30' east; and on the next day (23d) 22 30' east; but a table of the variation will be inserted at the end of the chapter, where it will appear at one view.

We now very frequently fell in with high islands of ice. On the 24th, we had fresh gales with hazy and cold weather, and met so many ice islands, that we were frequently obliged to alter our course to avoid them. On the 25th, we had strong gales with very heavy and frequent squalls: as we were now drawing near Cape Horn, and in all the charts of Terra del Fuego which I had seen, there is an island laid down, bearing from the Cape about south-south-west, and called Diego Ramirez, distant from the land ten or twelve leagues; and as I do not find that the existence of such an island has ever been contradicted by any person who has sailed round this promontory, I determined to keep as near as possible in its parallel, the wind being from west-north-west to west-south-west, and the weather rather hazy; if I should make it, I could pa.s.s either within or without, as might be convenient; and it would be as good a land-fall as the Cape itself, as, in case the wind should incline to the southward, we should have offing enough to clear the land, which, to us who were upon a service that would not admit of any loss of time, was of consequence.

At noon on the 26th, we had a good meridian observation, and were exactly in the parallel of Diego Ramirez; and at eight A. M.

an opportunity offered, for about an hour, for taking a set of distances of the sun and moon, of which both Mr. Bradley and myself availed ourselves; the result of which was (taking the mean of both observations, which agreed within a few miles) 292 38'

east, at the time of observation; so that we must then have been very near the place in which this island is laid down, for we could rely upon the observations: but as nothing appeared, we hauled in for the land, the looming of which we frequently saw, but the heavy black squalls which were constantly gathering upon it, rendered it too indistinct to be able to determine any particular point.

At this time several long strings of wild ducks flew past the s.h.i.+p: in the evening the weather cleared a little in the horizon, and we set the extremes of Terra del Fuego from north by west to west-north-west, distant about 10 leagues. We continued our course north-east, and I think we may safely venture to determine, that there is no island so situated from Cape Horn as this Diego Ramirez is said to be.

For several days before we made the land, and every day after we left it, until the 27th, we fell in with a great number of very high ice islands. Here also we met with divers and seals. We had got but a very small distance to the eastward of the cape, when the winds inclined to the northward, and from that to the north-east, and blew a fresh gale.

From the 27th of November until the 12th of December, we had the wind constantly in the north-east quarter, which I believe to be rather uncommon near Cape Horn for such a length of time; as s.h.i.+ps in general, that are bound into the south sea, find it rather tedious getting to the westward round this cape.

The s.h.i.+p's company now began to show much disposition to the scurvy, and what made it more distressing, we had nothing in the s.h.i.+p with which we could hope to check the progress of that destructive disease, except a little essence of malt, that we continued to serve to the s.h.i.+p's company. We had only to hope for a speedy pa.s.sage to the Cape of Good Hope, where we should, without a doubt, with the good things which were to be had there, be able to re-instate their health perfectly: I was so far from being surprised at this appearance of the scurvy amongst the company of the Sirius, so soon after leaving her port, that it was with me rather a matter of wonder that it had not shown itself sooner; and so it must be with every person who considers how they had lived since we left the Cape outward bound; during that time (about 13 or 14 months) they had not tasted a bit of fresh provisions of any kind, nor had they touched a single blade of vegetables.

We began now to be subject to hazy moist weather, with frequent very thick fogs; the lat.i.tude 55 30' south, and longitude 306 00' east; the weather was very cold, and very high islands of ice were seen in every quarter, some of a prodigious size: for fourteen days after we got to the eastward of Cape Horn, we were beating to the north-east, anxious to get so far to the northward as to feel the influence of the summer sun, by which it was to be hoped and expected our s...o...b..tic patients might be much relieved. In lat.i.tude 52 30' south, and longitude 318 20' east, the wind inclined to the southward of east, with hazy moist weather, and we steered to the north-east. We found many large whales here; they seemed to go in droves of from five and six to fifteen and twenty together, spouting within a cable's length of the s.h.i.+p, and sometimes so near that it would have been no difficult matter to harpoon them from the fore part of the s.h.i.+p as they pa.s.sed under the bows.

On the 12th of December, Henry Fitz-Gerald, a feaman, departed this life; he was troubled with a disease in his lungs, but the scurvy was his princ.i.p.al malady.

On the 13th, in the morning, we pa.s.sed one of the largest ice-islands we had seen; we judged it not less than three miles in length, and its perpendicular height we supposed to be 350 feet.

In lat.i.tude 51 33' south, and longitude 321 00'

east, the wind seemed set in at south-west, and blew a fresh steady gale, frequently attended with showers of snow or hail; the variation of the compa.s.s decreased fast, as will appear in the table annexed. On the 16th the wind s.h.i.+fted suddenly to the north-west quarter, and blew a steady gale. On the 19th, it blew very strong from west-north-west, with hazy weather, and frequent showers of rain, which again changed the wind to the south-west quarter, and the weather, as usual upon those changes, became fair and pleasant.

We now seemed to have got out from among the ice-islands, with which, from South Georgia to the lat.i.tude of 46 south, this ocean seems at this season of the year to be overspread. In lat.i.tude 44 00' south, we saw the last piece of ice, and in the whole, we had been twenty-eight days among the ice, and sailed a distance of 800 leagues. We had run for several days together, at the rate of from 50 to 60 leagues in the 24 hours, in a north-east direction; and had pa.s.sed through a lane or street, if it may be so called, of ice-islands, the whole of that distance: in general they were from the size of a country church, to the magnitude of one, two and three miles in circ.u.mference, and proportionably high.

Were it not that at this season of the year we had in such high lat.i.tudes very short nights, and scarcely an hour which could be called dark; it would certainly be attended with considerable danger to run in the night, the ice islands were in such vast numbers; indeed, we seldom sailed more than three or four miles, without having several upon each beam. I think the direction, in which those pieces of ice seemed to have been driven, is a strong proof of the prevalence of south-west winds in this part of the ocean. It is highly probable that they had been formed upon the coast of South Georgia and Sandwich Land, and separated from the ground early in the spring, or probably in a gale of wind during the winter. Many of them were half black, apparently with earth from the land to which they had adhered, or else, with mud from the bottom on which they had lain: for it is well known, that ice-islands, after having been driven about at sea for a length of time, become so light and spungy in that part which has been immersed in the water, that the upper part becomes heavier, and thereby they frequently overset, and may, by such a change, show some part of the ground on which they had rested.

Others had large and distinct portions of them thoroughly tinged with a beautiful sea-green, or bright verdigrease colour.

In lat.i.tude 45 30' south, and longitude 342 00'

east, the variation of the compa.s.s, which had decreased very gradually, was only 00 4' east. We carried on strong westerly winds with us, which amply compensated for the northerly and easterly gales which detained us so long between Cape Horn and South Georgia; and it was exceedingly fortunate for us that we were so favoured by the winds, for the s.h.i.+p's company were falling down very fast with the scurvy; and as I have already observed, we had nothing on board with which we could hope to check its progress, much less to cure it.

Nothing certainly can promise so fair to effect so desireable a purpose, as carrying a good stock of various vegetable acids in every s.h.i.+p, but particularly in s.h.i.+ps employed upon such services as the Sirius was. The elexir of vitriol, hitherto allowed, and -formerly considered_, not only as a preventive, but as a cure, was found by no means to answer the purpose of the former, far less of the latter. The vegetable acids, which might be provided for the use of s.h.i.+ps upon long voyages, I apprehend would be found to occasion a very small additional expence, if any; and I am convinced in the end would be found a considerable saving.

Having on the 25th of December arrived upon the meridian of Greenwich, from which we had sailed in an easterly direction, and completed 360 of east longitude, and consequently gained 24 hours, I dropt 360 and repeated, Thursday, 25th December.

On the 30th, John s.h.i.+ne, a seaman, died of the scurvy.

On the 31st, I had a few sets of distances of the sun and moon, by which our longitude at noon was 17 16' east; by Mr. Bradley, it was 16 58' east; the mean of both gave 17 07' east, and by the time-keeper it was 18 10' east; and we had not yet made the land; the lat.i.tude was 33 48' south. This was a proof that the time-keeper must have altered its rate since we left Port Jackson; we had then determined it to be losing 4"-77.

This change of its rate, since we left Port Jackson, I had some time suspected, and attributed it to the effects of the weather we had off, and near, Cape Horn. This evening we made a short trip off till midnight, when we tacked and stood for the land again: Joseph Caldwell, a seaman, died of the scurvy. At day-light we saw the land; the nearest, or that part which we were a-breast of, was distant about four leagues, and the Table Mountain bore south by east about nine or ten leagues; the wind, for the last twenty-four hours, had been strong from the southward, and we had, occasioned by there being too much of it, fallen to leeward.

Nothing could have been more correct than our observations for the longitude. The wind coming from the sea, we stood along sh.o.r.e to the southward, and in the afternoon were a-breast of Robin's Island, but could not fetch round the reef, and into Table Bay.

The weakly condition of that part of the s.h.i.+p's company, who were able to do duty upon deck, and the very dejected state of those who were confined to their beds, determined me, if possible, to bring the s.h.i.+p to an anchor before night; as the very idea of being in port, sometimes has an exceeding good effect upon the spirits of people who are reduced low by the scurvy; which was the case with a great many of our s.h.i.+p's company; and indeed, a considerable number were in the last stage of it.

After endeavouring in vain to weather the reef off the south end of the island, I bore away, and ran round the north end, and anch.o.r.ed within, right off the flag-staff and landing-place, in nine fathoms water, coa.r.s.e ground; the flag-staff bearing west, and the south end of the island, just on with the Lyon's Rump.

[A Table of the winds and weather, etc. on a pa.s.sage from the coast of New South Walesto the Cape of Good Hope (by the route of Cape Horn) in His Majesty's s.h.i.+p Sirius, in the months of October, November and December, 1788.]

[An Account of Observations for finding the variation of the compa.s.s...]

[The tables are included in the HTML version]

Chapter V

A VOYAGE TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE AND VOYAGE TO PORT JACKSON

January 1789 to May 1789

-Depart from Robin's Island, and anchor in Table Bay.--The sick sent on sh.o.r.e.--Arrival of the Alexander transport.--Provisions procured for the settlement at Port Jackson.--Departure of the Sirius.--In great danger from a violent tempest.--Arrives safe at Port Jackson.--Tables of the winds, weather, variation of the compa.s.s, etc.-

As soon as the s.h.i.+p was anch.o.r.ed, we sent a boat with the first lieutenant on sh.o.r.e to the island, for such news from Europe as the commanding officer there might be able to give; I wished also to know if Governor Van de Graaff was still at the Cape, and if Colonel Gordon was still commander in chief of the troops in garrison there.

The officer commanding at the island was exceedingly civil to the lieutenant who went on sh.o.r.e, and gave him every information he could; but it was unfortunate that the one could not speak a word of English, nor the other understand a word of Dutch: however, it was observed, that he wore a large orange c.o.c.kade in his hat, and although he could not converse, he made the officer sufficiently understand, by broken expressions of half English and half Dutch, that the English and Dutch were very good friends again, and that the French had no connection at all with Holland: from all which I conjectured, that some considerable changes had taken place in the affairs of the republic, since our departure from England, and that the Stadtholder had been reinstated in all his rights.

On hearing what a long voyage we had come, the officer was so kind as to send a basket of such fruit as his garden afforded; which, (to make the dejected sick well a.s.sured we were really in port,) were sent down and divided among them, for until then some of them very much doubted.

In the morning of the 2d of January, with a fine breeze from the northward, we got under way, and sailed up to Table Bay. I had generally understood, that the depth of water between this island and the anchorage in Table Bay, was so very considerable as to be unsafe for anchorage, in case of being becalmed, or otherwise not able to reach the proper anchoring ground. I was the more inclined to believe that to be the case, from never having seen the soundings laid down in any chart of this bay, except where s.h.i.+ps commonly anchor: I therefore, to ascertain whether that were the case or not, determined to go up under an easy sail, and to keep the lead going; the soundings were regular, and the deepest water was 15 fathoms; the ground was hard and probably not very clear, but still there is anchorage, which I did not before know.

At ten o'clock in the morning, we anch.o.r.ed in Table Bay, in seven and a half fathoms, and moored a cable each way. As soon as the s.h.i.+p was secured, I sent an officer to wait on the governor, and to inform him of the business I was come upon: he very politely informed the officer, that there was great abundance of every thing to be had, and that I had nothing to do but to signify in writing the quant.i.ty of each article wanted, and directions would be immediately given respecting it. His excellency also took that opportunity of sending me information, that he should in a few days, send a s.h.i.+p for Amsterdam; and, that if I had any dispatches to forward, and would send them to his house, he would answer for their being delivered into the custody of the British amba.s.sador, at the Hague, as far as the safety of the s.h.i.+p could be depended on.

The governor also confirmed the political accounts we had (though imperfectly,) received at the island: he sent me the treaty of alliance formed between the Kings of Great-Britain and Prussia, and also that between the States-General and these two sovereigns, which was a very pleasing piece of intelligence.

Every person here, either military or civil, wore a mark of their attachment to the Orange party and the old const.i.tution; the former by an orange c.o.c.kade, the latter, by a bit of ribbon of that colour, either at the breast, b.u.t.ton-hole, or sleeve.