Travels Through North America Part 5

The following day, 23d August, all our company departed; my friend Tromp and myself alone remained. We went to the other side of the river, and took lodgings at Forsyth's Hotel, where we found Sir Michael and Lady Clare, from Jamaica, where Sir Michael is a member of parliament: he was making a tour of pleasure, with his lady, through the United States.

I also became acquainted with a Mr. Grymes, of Virginia, who was formerly attorney general of the state of Louisiana, and is married to the widow of the late Governor Claiborne, a beautiful and wealthy creole. As this family were also going on a tour to Canada, I hoped to travel with them. Mrs. Grymes spoke French, a circ.u.mstance which was exceedingly agreeable on account of the facility with which I could converse with her. I also found the son and adjutant of the governor, Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had been sent by his father, to await my arrival. In a short time after, this worthy general came himself to pay me a visit, and offer me a room in his cottage, four miles off. This I refused, but on the evening of the following day, I rode to Sir Peregrine's in company with Sir Michael and Lady Clare. The road went over the battle-ground at Lundy's Lane, (25th July, 1814,) which is situated upon a gentle eminence, and through the beautiful village of Stamford. The fields here are much better cultivated than in the United States, and there is not so much waste of timber. The clearing is done with much more order and regularity. Sir Peregrine resides at his cottage, in summer, which was built by his father-in-law, the Duke of Richmond, and surrounded by a park. His winter residence is at York, on the northern sh.o.r.e of Lake Ontario, the seat of the parliament of Upper Canada.

CHAPTER VII.

_Journey from the Falls of Niagara to Montreal.-- The Battle-ground at Queenstown.-- Newark.-- Kingston.-- Montreal._

On Thursday, the 25th of August, we took our final leave of the falls, in the forenoon, in company with the Grymes and Clare families, for the town of Newark, which is situated at the junction of the Niagara with Lake Ontario, on the Canada sh.o.r.e, about fourteen miles distant. At first our road pa.s.sed over small hills, until we reached the battle-ground at Queenstown, a steep hill, which is situated behind Queenstown, and commands a view of the whole surrounding country. From this, the country as far as Lake Ontario, is more level. Opposite to Queenstown, on the American sh.o.r.e, is Lewistown.

The battle of Queenstown took place on the 13th of October, 1812. The English, under the command of General Brock, occupied the heights, whose right wing borders on the Niagara, having a deep ravine in front, and whose left wing gradually slopes towards other no less considerable eminences, which they had slightly fortified. General Solomon Van Rensselaer, the present post-master in Albany, and cousin of General Van Rensselaer, the patroon, encamped with the American troops, consisting of regulars and militia, on the opposite sh.o.r.e, near Lewistown. General Van Rensselaer was apprised that General Brock, with the greatest part of his corps, had marched towards the west, and that there were but few troops left on the heights. He determined therefore to cross the river, to make himself master of so important a position. During the night he conveyed his regulars, about one thousand four hundred men, over the river, and gave orders that the militia should follow on the return of the boats, and form a reserve in the rear. These troops gained the heights, and nearly surprised the British, who, notwithstanding, made a bold resistance. The Americans would, however, have remained masters of the field, had not General Brock returned with his detachment. Brock was a brave soldier, and hearing that the troops whom he had left behind, were in a dangerous position, he immediately attacked the Americans with but a single company. In this attack he found a glorious and memorable death. The Americans kept the heights as long as possible; their ammunition, however, being nearly exhausted, General Van Rensselaer sent orders to the militia to advance. The general himself hastened to the opposite sh.o.r.e to accelerate their movements; he was answered that they were ready to defend the borders of the United States, but it was contrary to the laws of the country to take them out of it. The troops of the line in the meanwhile, having exhausted their ammunition, were obliged to retreat; they expected to embark, but not finding any boats, they were compelled, after a heroic defence to surrender as prisoners of war. On the place where General Brock fell, the parliament of Canada has erected a monument to the memory of that brave and intrepid soldier. It consists of a lofty column, which may be observed from every part of the adjacent country. It was not yet completed, and wanted the inscription.

We expected to meet the steam-boat Queenstown at Newark, in order to proceed to Kingston, on the eastern extremity of Lake Ontario. We missed it, however, and were afterwards informed that it had been obliged to put in at another harbour on account of repairs. We were compelled, therefore, to remain three days at Newark. Newark is a regularly built town, with several handsome houses; it is situated at the outlet of the Niagara into Lake Ontario, between Fort George and Missagua. Fort Missagua is near the lake; Fort George lies south of Newark, and is in ruins. During the last war, both these forts were occupied by the Americans, and from Fort George towards the town, they had raised a bulwark so as to form a kind of intrenchment. After they had evacuated this position, and were obliged to retreat to the right sh.o.r.e of the Niagara, the commander, General M'Clure, burnt the town of Newark, an act for which he has been severely censured by his country. Since this occurred, the village has never properly recovered, and its future increase will also be slow, especially as government is digging a ca.n.a.l to the west of Newark, which is to connect Lake Erie, and Lake Ontario, which will probably hereafter withdraw all the transitory commerce. Our time pa.s.sed very agreeably in this town, particularly through the attention of the worthy Sir Peregrine Maitland, who had come hither; the politeness of Major Cob, and the gallant officers of the seventy-sixth regiment, of which four companies were at Newark, as well as the delightful singing of Mrs. Grymes, who remained with her husband, while many others, with whom we had expected to sail, went away.

We visited Fort Niagara, which is situated on the American sh.o.r.e, and which, in consequence of its white houses, and its waving flag, presents a very handsome appearance. The fort lies on a neck of land; it was erected by the French in the middle of the last century, and was shortly after taken by the British. After the peace of Versailles in 1783, it fell into the possession of the United States, was retaken during the late war by the British, and at the peace of Ghent, was again obtained by the United States. We saw all that was to be seen, and found every thing clean and comfortable. I will only further remark on the present occasion, that the uniform of the United States' Infantry is very simple, and consists of dark blue cloth, with one row of white b.u.t.tons, blue lace collars and cuffs of the same, white cord, and leather caps.

We also visited the village of the Tuscarora tribe of Indians, who reside within the limits of the United States, about three miles from Lewistown. The village consists of single houses, or wigwams, and is handsomely situated in a valley surrounded by forests. It contains a frame church, in which the service is performed by a methodist missionary, who also, during the winter, keeps school for their children. Most of the houses are surrounded by gardens and orchards; and the fields, in which they mostly cultivate Indian corn, appeared to be in a very good condition. We were conducted into the house of an Indian, about forty years of age, who had been educated in one of the schools in New York, who speaks and writes English fluently. We found him in his bed suffering from an attack of rheumatism. He inquired after our native countries, and was pretty well acquainted with their geography. We examined his library, and found that it consisted chiefly of methodist religious books, with a history of the United States. He also had a collection of Indian implements of war, consisting of a club of hickory wood, a battle-axe of stone, bows and arrows, the points of which are flint, very artificially made; an oblong stone, a kind of serpentine, which the savages wear on their b.r.e.a.s.t.s during an engagement, and ornaments of gla.s.s beads and sh.e.l.ls, which they wear around their waists in time of battle. All these articles I wished to buy; but the Indian told me that he kept them for the inspection of strangers, and that they were not for sale. Instead of them, he sold me some moca.s.sins, a kind of soft leather shoe, made of buckskin, which are ornamented with silk and beads, and a small basket. Amongst the Indians, the women are obliged to do all the work, even of the most degrading kind. Mr. Tromp, in order to see several articles more conveniently, had placed his hat on the floor, which was scarcely observed by the Indian, before he desired Mrs. Grymes to put it upon a chair. His grandson, a boy of eleven years, shot very expertly at an apple with his bow and arrow.

The steam-boat Frontenac, arrived in the evening after our return, and was to sail on the following day for Kingston. We went on board and examined her cabin. Around the dining-cabin there are six chambers, each containing four births. I was shown into one of these, in which I could lie at full length. In the ladies cabin are fourteen births. A great part of the deck was covered by an awning, so that pa.s.sengers could enjoy the fresh air at the same time that they were protected from the sun or bad weather. The boat carries seven hundred and fifty tons, and has an engine made by Bolton and Watt, at Soho, near Birmingham, of twenty-seven horse-power. Sir Peregrine Maitland conveyed me to this vessel in his carriage. She lay at anchor off Fort George. Sir Peregrine had the great politeness to station one of the companies of the seventy-sixth regiment with a flag, to fire a salute of twenty-one guns; and his attention was still farther shown in sending his son along, that I might have no difficulty in seeing the navy-yard, at Kingston. The Frontenac sailed at half past five o'clock. In a few moments we were on the lake, and in a short time lost sight of land, and were apparently in the open sea. There was but little wind, and the vessel, in consequence of its great size, produced no disagreeable rocking. During the whole evening we were entertained by Mrs. Grymes, by her delightful performance on the guitar, and by her singing French and Spanish songs.

The night pa.s.sed quietly; but it was otherwise at break of day. It rained repeatedly; the wind grew stronger; the vessel pitched, and several persons became sea-sick. Lake Ontario is of an elliptical form, is about two hundred miles long, and fifty-five miles at its widest part. It is everywhere very deep, in some places five hundred feet, and never freezes completely over. It contains several good harbours, and the boundary line between Canada and the United States, divides it into two nearly equal parts.

In the afternoon we saw a small peninsula towards the west, called Prince Edward's Island, and pa.s.sed between a cl.u.s.ter of small islands, called the Ducks. About nine o'clock in the evening we reached Kingston, the British harbour on Lake Ontario. We cast anchor close by the town.

I spent the night on board, and in the morning, as I awoke, I found one of the companies of the thirty-seventh regiment, who are here in garrison, marching along the quay, near the vessel, as a guard of honour, accompanied by a band of music. I dismissed them of course immediately, and after having received the visits of a few officers, we rode over the bay to the dock-yard, which lies opposite to Kingston, surrounded by a high wall and protected by a strong guard. By the navy-list I ascertained that there are ten s.h.i.+ps here, with three hundred and six guns, in ordinary. It appeared to me, however, that the number of guns was greater, for the St. Lawrence, one of these vessels, carried one hundred and twenty guns, and two which are yet on the stocks, the Montreal and Wolf, have three decks, and ports for one hundred and thirty guns each. According to the stipulation of the treaty of Ghent, they are not permitted to build any s.h.i.+ps here during time of peace; so that the soldiers at the a.r.s.enal consisted merely of the necessary officers, besides twelve carpenters, who had scarcely any thing to do, but to work at an elegant little schooner, which was shortly to be launched to serve as a yacht. The large vessels on the stocks were uncovered, and appeared to have suffered much from the weather. The St. Lawrence was the largest vessel in the river, and is said also to be in a state of decay; her bottom especially has suffered from the effects of the fresh water and worms. The wharves of the dock-yard are built of wood, and bear marks of the haste in which they were erected; they were in a bad condition. Within a few years they have erected a magazine, three stories high and one hundred and ninety-two feet long, with iron doors and shutters, for the preservation of the sails and cordage. The part.i.tions in the inside are made of wood.

Immediately on our entrance into the magazine the large iron door was locked and kept so, inasmuch as they greatly mistrust the Americans.

Beneath the building is a cellar, which is also occupied as a magazine, and the floor of which consists of limestone, which serves for the foundation of the whole building. The stairs are of stone, and are built into a tower; they intend also at some future period, to make the different floors fire-proof, like the magazine at Plymouth, by covering them with iron. In a distinct ma.s.sy building are the forges, and in a third the offices. By the side of the offices is a large room, which contains the different articles used in s.h.i.+p-building. Opposite to the dock-yard, on a neck of land, is Fort Frederick, which I had not time to visit. Behind the dock-yard, upon a small height, stood a number of tents. We were informed that about four hundred Irish emigrants had encamped there, who had been sent to this country at the expense of the English government, to settle a piece of land on the north-western bank of Lake Ontario, whither they were soon to go. The town of Kingston contains about two thousand inhabitants, and is built in the usual style.

We left Kingston after eleven o'clock, on board the steam-boat Lady Dalhousie, for Prescott, sixty-eight miles from Kingston, on the left bank of the St. Lawrence. Adjutant Maitland left us at Kingston, but the rest of the company remained. We had scarcely left this place before we sailed round a promontory on which stands Fort Henry, into the St.

Lawrence. This river is here very wide, and forms an archipelago about fifty miles in length, called the thousand islands. The English and American commissioners for determining the boundary line, took the pains to count these islands, and found that they amounted to sixteen hundred and ninety-two; in this calculation, however, they have included every projecting rock, even if it had but a single tree. This archipelago presents a beautiful prospect; most of the islands are rocky, and are overgrown with trees, generally cedars. Here and there a fir reared his lofty head, which, generally growing upon the bare rocks, where the trees are less numerous, presents a picturesque appearance. We observed something similar to the picture of Frederick, of which we were often reminded in descending the St. Lawrence. Eighteen miles from Kingston our vessel stopped at the village of Gananoqui, on the Canada sh.o.r.e, to take in wood. I went for a moment ash.o.r.e and found an insignificant village, in the neighbourhood of which the river of the same name falls into the St. Lawrence. The Gananoqui river has a rocky bed, and is crossed by a wooden bridge, beyond which, upon a small eminence, is a square two story log-house, the upper story of which was formerly occupied as a garrison by about forty men. During the late war the Americans got possession here of an English post and a magazine, in consequence of which they built this block-house. At the extremity of the archipelago of the thousands islands is a similar block-house for the protection of the navigation of the river.

On the Canada sh.o.r.e, about fifty miles below Kingston, where the archipelago terminates, is the small village of Brockville, where there are some fine magazines near the river. At this place the night set in, which was warm and moonlight. We found two taverns in the village, but they were so full of people, and had such a dirty appearance, that I preferred spending the night on board the steam-boat, and my example was followed by the families of Messrs. Clare and Grymes. The steam-boat carried one hundred tons, and was of twenty-five horse power, but she was by no means so convenient and comfortable as the Frontenac.

At this place commence the rapids of the St. Lawrence. They are formed by rocks, which extend obliquely across the river, over which the water rushes with tremendous force, so that between this place and Montreal, a distance of one hundred and thirteen miles, the steam-boats can run only a part of the way. On this account, therefore, there is a line of stage-coaches and steam-boats between Prescott and Montreal, which take the pa.s.sengers alternately, and produce much vexation in consequence of the baggage. The rapids may be descended in bateaux, or Durham-boats, which are small, flat vessels of about forty tons, have but half deck, and draw eighteen inches of water. The Durham-boats have a mast and two sails, and carry large cargoes of goods. We were anxious to undertake the pa.s.sage, in order to see the rapids, and to ascertain the danger of which so much has been spoken. We therefore went on board a Durham-boat, the Flying Dutchman, paid two dollars for each pa.s.senger, and were a.s.sured by the captain, that, if the wind should be good, we should be at Montreal in a day. Sir Michael resolved to attempt the enterprise, and his lady accompanied him, in spite of her fears. Mrs. Grymes, however, was so much afraid, that she preferred travelling partly in the stage and partly by steam-boat.

We embarked on board the Flying Dutchman, at about 6 o'clock, early in the morning of the 30th August. The morning was delightful, and as we were much pleased with the beautiful prospect of Prescott, in the neighbourhood of which is Fort Wellington, a redoubt, which was built during the late war.

On the American sh.o.r.e we saw the town of Ogdensburgh, which was fortified by the Americans during the late war, but soon fell into the hands of the British. The comforts of our vessel were not, as we have remarked, very great. It was open, a few barrels of potash served us as a floor; and boards laid across our trunks as seats. Six miles below Prescott we arrived at a few islands called the Gallop Islands, and the first rapids. As we approached, the water appeared to be boiling, and high foaming billows arose, over which our boat pa.s.sed rapidly. They are not so high as the swells at sea, but they are very short and rapid in their movements. As our Durham-boat, however, was remarkably long, it divided them without producing any disagreeable motion. Scarcely had we pa.s.sed the rapids before the river became again smooth, and as we had scarcely any wind, our progress was but slow. Another set of rapids, nine miles long, were pa.s.sed in an hour, and with no more danger than the preceding. We were a.s.sured, however, that a branch of these rapids, from which we were separated by an island, are very dangerous. It is called the least channel; and Duncan, in his Journal, gives a beautiful description of a s.h.i.+pwreck that occurred here, in which many lives were lost. Our vessel was not only flat at the bottom, like all the others that pa.s.s these rapids, but had also an ingenious false keel, which could be lowered and raised as the water was either shallow or deep. Our pa.s.sengers were princ.i.p.ally of the lower cla.s.s of Canadians, who spoke bad French, somewhat like the Walloon. There was also a lively young black bear, three months old, on board.

About twenty miles below Longsault, we reached the village of Cornwall, on the Canada sh.o.r.e. The wind was so feeble that we had no hopes of reaching a good tavern before dark, we determined, therefore, to stay here all night. Towards evening, Mr. Grymes' family also arrived by land, and took lodgings at the same tavern. The village is small, but the streets intersect each other at right angles, and contain several new stone houses. It appears to be a place of little business. The country is pretty flat, and the plain near the village is used by the British as a race-ground. A race was to take place in a few days, horses had already arrived and lodgings were bespoken. The British government sends many Scotch emigrants into this part of the country.

Our departure on the following morning was delayed two hours by the ladies; and it was not until about 7 o'clock that we left Cornwall in our Durham-boat. The morning was very pleasant, and in consequence of a rather strong southerly wind, we glided rapidly along. Five miles below Cornwall, on the right sh.o.r.e, we saw the village of St. Regis, the last belonging to the United States. The American line here leaves the St.

Lawrence, both sh.o.r.es of which belong to Canada as far as its outlet into the sea. On the left bank of the river we descried a new Scotch village, called Glengary Settlement. Farther on, you reach a lake, called Lac St. Francois, through which the St. Lawrence flows, and through which the boundary line between Upper and Lower Canada is drawn.

This lake, which is about forty miles long, and six broad, contains a number of islands. Not far from St. Regis we pa.s.sed one of these islands, which is inhabited by some Indians, who have been baptized by a Catholic missionary, and have their island in a good state of cultivation. One of the Indians, with his wife, came along side of us in a canoe, and sold us some fish. At the point where Lac St. Francois terminates, and where the St. Lawrence again commences, is the village of Coteau de Lac, on the left bank of the river. At this village is a pretty strong rapid, stronger than those we pa.s.sed yesterday. In order that this rapid may be avoided, and that vessels may ascend with more ease, the government has had a ca.n.a.l dug along the river, which has two locks, and is covered by a small fort, Fort du Coteau.

Our captain had business at the custom-house; he stopped therefore for an hour, during which I had time to look at the fort; after which we continued our course in a strong wind which was brought on by a thunder-storm. The sh.o.r.es and islands of the river are generally covered with cedar trees, and amongst them we observed some neat houses and churches, with bright tin roofs. At the village of Coteau des Cedres, we were obliged to encounter the last and most dangerous rapid, called the Cascades. The waves were uncommonly high, and our vessel pa.s.sed over the dangerous parts with incredible velocity. Along these rapids there is also a ca.n.a.l provided with locks, and intended to facilitate the ascent of vessels. If these rapids are viewed from the sh.o.r.e, it appears incredible that a canoe should venture in without being swallowed up.

Such a misfortune, however, does not happen, as we had just proved.

Below this rapid the river, where it receives the Ottawa, again spreads out so as to form another lake called Lac St. Louis. North of this lake, and at the place where the Ottawa unites with the St. Lawrence, it forms another lake, Lac des deux Montagnes, which is separated from Lac St.

Louis by three islands, called Jesus, Perrot, and Montreal. The thunder-storm pa.s.sed close by us; the wind blew heavy, but favourably.

We met a steam-boat, having a corpse on board, and her flag at half-mast; this was a bad omen! Another steam-boat got ahead of us as we were pa.s.sing towards La Chine, and excited our desire to sail faster; but suddenly we saw a terrible storm approaching. In an instant every hand was endeavouring to take down the sails, and the small one was fortunately drawn in before the arrival of the squall, but the large one, in consequence of its bad cordage, was only half way down when it struck us. Near us we observed a sound, with a dangerous cliff, which it was necessary to avoid by steering to the left, but we were driven directly towards it. Six men could scarcely manage the helm. Half of the sail floated in the water, and our destruction appeared inevitable. No one knew who commanded; the sailors thought themselves better qualified than the captain, and every thing was hurry and confusion. I deemed it best to remain silent, and commit myself to the care of Providence, who guides the destinies of man. At length a sailor climbed the mast and cut the cord, so that the sail could be taken down, by which time we had fortunately pa.s.sed the sound. The storm also, which altogether did not last much longer than five minutes, began to abate. The steam-boat ahead had been in the same dangerous situation, and would have been cast upon the rocks in the sound, had she not speedily returned into the lake, where she cast anchor. Immediately after the storm, during which it had rained, we observed a remarkable phenomenon, viz. a fall of white-winged insects, of which a great quant.i.ty fell upon our boat. It continued during five minutes. These insects had in all probability been driven from the neighbouring forests. The storm, though unpleasant, had the effect of propelling us swiftly forwards. After 6 o'clock in the evening, we reached without any other unpleasant occurrence La Chine, a village, which has a harbour situated upon the island of Montreal.

La Chine appears to be an insignificant village, though in consequence of its favourable situation, it is said to do considerable business. The French was spoken so badly here, that I thought myself transported to our provinces of Hennegau or Namur. The village is said to have obtained its name from the circ.u.mstance that during the time the country was occupied by the French colony, they believed they could pa.s.s to China by way of the St. Lawrence; and with this object, an expedition had been fitted out, which embarked at La Chine.

Between La Chine and Montreal, the river has a very dangerous rapid, on account of which the government has built a ca.n.a.l as far as this place, which is nine miles long, has several locks, and is said to be of much importance to the trade. As we preferred going by land we hired a stage-coach, and started about eight o'clock in the evening during a violent thunder-storm. Lady Clare, who was scarcely recovered from the fear which she experienced on the water, would willingly have spent the night here in a tavern, as she was much afraid to travel during a thunder-storm at night. It soon turned out that her fears were not unfounded. We had scarcely pa.s.sed three miles over a good turnpike road, before we came in contact with several carts that stood in front of a tavern, loaded with iron bars. The drivers had gone into the tavern, and left their carts in the middle of the road, and as the night was dark we approached one of them so suddenly that three of the iron bars entered the breast of our shaft-horse, which immediately fell and expired. After much dispute between the coachman and the carters, we rode on with three horses, and arrived at Montreal about ten o'clock at night. We stopt at the Masonic Hall, a hotel which has been established within the last year. It is a very large, convenient, ma.s.sy building, four stories high, and built of blue stone. It affords a fine view of the St. Lawrence, which is upwards of twelve hundred yards wide here. At our arrival, I became immediately acquainted with Captain Mellish, of the engineers, who was sent from England on a scientific expedition into the interior of the colony.

We remained at Montreal nearly three days. The city, which I examined in company with Lieutenant Colonel Evans of the seventieth regiment, in garrison here, contains about twenty-five thousand inhabitants. It extends upon a hill to a considerable distance, between the St. Lawrence and Le Mont Real, which is about seven hundred feet high, and is lined with timber. It has two princ.i.p.al streets, which run parallel with the river, and are intersected by a third, that runs along the ditch of the demolished fortresses. The houses are generally built of blue stone, and covered with bright tin, have iron doors and shutters to protect them against the fire, which give the city a very dismal appearance. In our walk we pa.s.sed a number of young men who wore belts, and were dressed in blue coats, the seams of which were covered with white cord. We were informed that they were the pupils of the Catholic ecclesiastical school. It is well known that most of the Canadians, and four-fifth of the inhabitants of Montreal, are Catholics; they are bigotted, and the lower cla.s.ses are exceedingly ignorant. There is a very broad street, which unites the two princ.i.p.al streets, and in the centre is the market-house. At one of the extremities of this street, are the court-house and prison; behind which is the place where the old forts stood, since converted into a parade. Montreal has several hospitals, which are superintended by nurses. These hospitals, however, are not sufficient, especially as the nuns do not admit any fever patients. In consequence of this, some of the most wealthy citizens have joined, and selected a healthy spot, on which they have erected a new hospital, three stories high, capable of containing seventy patients of both s.e.xes. In this hospital, the sick, fifty in number, receive cheap and excellent accommodations. They are under the care of nurses, and are attended gratis, by the best physicians of the city. The arrangement is similar to that of the hospital at Boston, but there is less of luxury here in their management.

The public library is as yet small, though it is rapidly increasing. It has united with it a cabinet of natural history. We also observed the foundation for a large cathedral, which is to be built by private contributions. At the barracks of the subalterns, I was much pleased with the mess-room, which has a library connected with it; I was also much gratified with the school for the education of the soldiers, and their children. The barracks were formerly occupied as the Jesuit college, which stood in the old French citadel, of which not a vestige remains. Not far from the barracks is a steam-engine, which conveys the water from the river into the city, at the same time that it moves a mill. At the market-house stands a monument erected by the colony in honour of Lord Nelson. It consists of a statue resting upon a single column. On one side of the pedestal is an inscription; two others contain representations of naval engagements; and the fourth, a representation of the capitulation of Copenhagen.

The next day, Lieutenant-colonel Mac Gregor conducted me to the parade, where a part of his regiment was a.s.sembled. They formed a battalion of six divisions. The battalion exercises were not performed, but the manuvres, which were very complicated, and only adapted to the place, were executed with much precision and admirable celerity. I learned a new mode of making ready. At the command "ready," the soldiers levelled their muskets, c.o.c.ked them in this position; at the command "fire," they brought them slowly to their cheeks. The infantry were divided into two bodies, but in making a flank march, they formed into three, by pa.s.sing through the files. The platoons were divided into sections, containing from four to six files, in consequence of which the oblique march was easily executed.

After this manuvre was completed, we took a boat, in company with the officers, for the island of St. Helen, oppositely to Montreal, in the middle of the St. Lawrence. This island contains a large artillery depot, under the direction of Major Wallace. Upon landing we were saluted with a discharge of twenty-one guns from the battery on the neck of the island. This battery is of a crescent shape, and serves as a training-place for the company of artillery stationed here. The gunners were just practising with one nine, and one six pounder, and a seven-inch howitzer, each of which was charged with grenades. The mark stood in the river, and their dexterity was such that the grenade never exploded before reaching it. The skill consists chiefly in the proper calculation of the fuse, so that the powder of the grenade may explode the moment it is over the mark.

St. Helen was the only point that the French retained after all Canada had submitted to the British power. It is about two miles in circ.u.mference, and is covered with fine elms and different kinds of nut trees, particularly the hickory. The soldiers have made excellent paths through and around the island. A botanic garden was established here a few years ago by the government, in which all the North American plants are collected, for the purpose of furnis.h.i.+ng gardens in England. On the north side of the island you have some beautiful views of the sh.o.r.es of the river, and Montreal, with her numerous churches, and situation at the foot of the green mountain, presents a very imposing appearance.

Here are also the a.r.s.enal and barracks, new ma.s.sy buildings, which are protected against a _coup de main_ by a breast-work, as well as by embrasures in the walls. The interior of the island is hilly, and in a really romantic valley is a powder-magazine, containing four thousand barrels of powder. Through Major Wallace, who resides in a very beautiful house at the barracks, we became acquainted with his wife and daughter, who pa.s.s their time very pleasantly at their solitary habitation in music and drawing. During the winter, the people who are obliged to stay on the island are sometimes prevented from going to Montreal for six weeks, in consequence of the ice.

After our return to Montreal we took another ramble through the city, and observed some very large stores. As Montreal carries on some fur trade through the Ottawa river, with the Hudson Bay and North-west Company, I had supposed I should be able to procure some cheap fur; but I found little that was good, and this was valued at an enormous price.

In the evening we went to the Royal Circus, whose pompous advertis.e.m.e.nt had promised a large company of riders and a good play. The riders, four grown persons and two boys, performed some tolerably good feats; but the play was so badly managed that we soon returned to the house. The theatre is in other respects handsomely arranged: it has two tiers of boxes, and a circle for the horses, which, during the play, forms the pit.

CHAPTER VIII.

_Journey from Montreal to Quebec.-- Stay at Quebec.-- Return to Montreal-- from the 3d to the 9th of September, 1825._

About 8 o'clock in the evening of the 3d of September, in company with Messrs. Grymes and Clare's families, we embarked on board the steam-boat Lady Sherbrook for Quebec, one hundred and eighty miles from Montreal.

Montreal wants good wharves, a circ.u.mstance which we felt sensibly on going on board the steam-boat, as we were obliged to walk in the dark through the mire, which was particularly disagreeable to the ladies. We had taken state-rooms on board the vessel, so that the ladies could live alone, and not be obliged to sleep in the common ladies cabin. To me it was also pleasant to have a small room to myself. At Montreal I met Captain King, of the English artillery, with whom I had become acquainted at Boston, and who likewise travelled to Quebec. The other pa.s.sengers were not numerous.

The steam-boat was one hundred and fifty feet long, carried eight hundred tons, and her engine was of sixty horse-power, much too little for such a large and heavy vessel. It started after 9 o'clock in the evening. During the night it stopt an hour at the outlet of the river Sorel into the St. Lawrence, at William Henry, a small town, so called in honour of the Duke of Clarence. They were obliged to take in wood; for the American and Canada steam-boats are not, like the European, heated with stone coal, but with wood, which takes up much room on the vessel, and much time in loading.

The next morning we stopt on the left bank of the little town Les Trois Rivieres, which contains two thousand five hundred inhabitants, is eighty miles distant from Montreal, and situated where the St. Maurice empties itself into the St. Lawrence. Before we came to this place, we had to go through Lake St. Pierre, which is formed by the widening of the river St. Lawrence. The banks of this river are thickly inhabited on both sides, and are also said to be cultivated and productive. The river is throughout from one to two miles wide, but fifty-two miles below Trois Rivieres, at the village of Richelieu, it becomes narrower, and here are the last rapids, called Rapids de Richelieu. The banks, which as far as this place are pretty low, become higher and more rocky, particularly on the left side. The neighbourhood is remarkably handsome and picturesque. The majestic stream with its pleasant banks and the view of the distant blue mountains near Quebec, produce an indescribable effect. The weather was favourable, a clear sunny day, and not very warm; in this northern lat.i.tude you can already perceive the approaching autumn by the coolness of the nights and mornings.

We reached Quebec at 10 o'clock in the evening. This city consists of two parts, the upper town, which is built on a rock, and the lower, which is pressed in between the river and the rock. The lights in the lower town and the fortifications, had an elegant appearance, when contrasted with the dark rock. The first coup d'il, which was by night, reminded me of Namur, as it is seen from the right bank of the Maas.

In the river were many vessels, mostly used for carrying wood. It was already late, and we should have found difficulty in transporting our baggage by night, besides other inconveniences in finding lodgings for the ladies, so we spent this night also on board the steam-boat, where we were very comfortable and found it cleanly.

The next morning, after dismissing the guard which the governor had appointed to escort us, we went to our lodgings, in the upper part of the town. The lower town is very narrow, and has a filthy appearance.

The streets are not paved, and badly provided with side-walks. The road which leads to the upper part of the town is very steep. It stands on a rocky ground, and its fortifications are elevated three hundred and fifty feet from the level of the ocean. The upper is separated from the lower town by a stone wall, which has the form of a horn-work. Through this wall is a gate, which has a guard, the guard-room is opposite the gate, and by means of a portcullis defends the entrance. For the convenience of foot-pa.s.sengers, there is a door near the gate, with wooden stairs, by ascending which you reach the upper town. On the right side of the gate is a building which resembles a chapel, and serves for the house of commons of Canada. In order to get home, we were obliged to go round part of the walls of the town. Even here you have an indescribably beautiful view of the Bay of Quebec and the right bank of the river, which has the appearance of a cape called Point Levi.

Shortly after our arrival, I received a visit from Colonel d.u.c.h.esnay, first adjutant of the governor-general, and from Colonel Darnford, director of engineers. The first gentleman came to bid me welcome, in the name of the governor, and the latter begged to show me the fortifications. Lord Dalhousie, governor-general of all the British possessions in North America, was at that time in England, but was expected daily. During his absence, the government was under the direction of the lieutenant-governor, Sir Francis Burton, brother of Lord Conyngham. He is a civilian, but is said to fill his high post with credit. The good spirits the inhabitants are in, and the harmony that exists in the colony, is mostly owing to his good management, and his humane and friendly deportment towards them. It is said of Lord Dalhousie, that he has estranged the hearts of the people from himself and the government, through his haughty and absolute deportment, and the opposition party in the Canadian parliament has thereby been strengthened.

With the above-mentioned public officers, we wandered through the city, and first of all visited the government house, which is a large old building, vacant during the absence of Lord Dalhousie. The rooms are not large, and were not as richly furnished as I expected to see the mansion of an English governor-general. At the back of the house, over the vault, is a large balcony, from which one can see part of the town, the harbour, and the surrounding neighbourhood. The citadel is a new work, and not quite finished. The English speak with a kind of exultation of the fortifications of Quebec, and compare it to Gibraltar. I also expected something extraordinary, but cannot say that my expectations were gratified. The heights near the town are the well-known plains of Abraham, or more correctly heights of Abraham, upon which, on the 12th of September, 1759, the battle between the English general, Wolfe, and the French general, Marquis Montcalm, took place; a battle which cost the lives of both generals, and in which the French were defeated with the loss of the town and colony.

General Wolfe took possession of the Isle d'Orleans, and made himself master of Point Levi. The Marquis de Montcalm, upon the heights by the falls of Montmorency, with his army in a fortified position, heroically received the attack of General Wolfe and drove him back, with great loss to the English army. On this occasion, General Wolfe embarked his men in the night, took advantage of the darkness to pa.s.s the town, sailed up the St. Lawrence, and disembarked at the place that is now called Wolfe's cove. He mounted the rock with a great deal of difficulty, and then put his army at the break of day in order of battle on the Heights of Abraham. To a.s.sist the town, and drive the English from the heights of Abraham, the Marquis de Montcalm found it necessary to leave his impregnable position at Montmorency, and to cross, by a bridge secured by double piers, over the river St. Charles. He now, with Quebec in his rear, drew up his army upon the heights in good order and gave battle, the result of which was unfortunate to him and his government.

The English engineers make use of bricks which are burned in England, for building the casemates of the fortification. A thousand of these bricks cost the government, including transportation, two pounds ten s.h.i.+llings! The reason they give is, that the bricks burned here, crack in the winter. I rather believe that the preference of these foreign bricks has some other reason.