Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara Volume I Part 5

Current, wind, sea, everything was against us; even tacking was of no service, as we lost ground visibly with each tack. When at last all hope of making the West had disappeared, we anch.o.r.ed, like many others of our companions in sorrow, on the 1st June, at 6 P.M., in the Bay of Frangerola, fifteen miles north of Malaga.

Here were anch.o.r.ed nearly sixty merchantmen, all wind-bound. Behind the Punta Molinos, near Malaga, there must have been quite as many more. Fresh additions were constantly being made to the already considerable fleet, which had involuntarily collected together, whilst those merchantmen which with fruitless obstinacy kept on tacking about us, were getting more and more out of their course, as with every successive hour their position was changed for the worse.

[Ill.u.s.tration: INHABITANT OF FRANGOLA.]

In the hope of a favourable wind we were all a-taunto on the 2nd June, perfectly prepared for a start. Under these circ.u.mstances no one could go on sh.o.r.e, but an officer was despatched in a boat to make inquiries as to whether there were any sanitary board in the neighbouring village. A relative of the President of the Junta de la Sanidad came on board, and stated that, though as a rule only vessels clearing from Spanish harbours were permitted to have intercourse with the sh.o.r.e, an exception should be made in favour of ourselves. This Andalusian was very communicative, and amongst other things told us that the inhabitants were supported almost entirely by fis.h.i.+ng. Many s.h.i.+ps had now been waiting several weeks for a favourable wind to pa.s.s the Straits. Some had thrice attempted to sail towards the West, but in every case were driven back by wind and current.

In 1847, a year of scarcity, Louis Philippe had caused several French steamers to be stationed in the Straits in order to take in tow s.h.i.+ps coming from the Black Sea laden with grain, and thereby to facilitate their pa.s.sage between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. In the afternoon we had a visit from about thirty inhabitants of Frangerola, who came on board in fis.h.i.+ng-boats to view the s.h.i.+p. None of these people had ever seen so large a man-of-war, and they all therefore regarded the s.h.i.+p with great curiosity. The s.h.i.+p's band greatly delighted them, but the signal-gun at sunset seemed to terrify them and to hasten their departure.

In the evening we felt from time to time some warm blasts of wind from the east, and enjoyed for nearly an hour the delightful spectacle of a "Fata Morgana." This phenomenon, as is well known, arises from two currents of air of a different density, separated by a distinctly-formed plane, generally produced when the temperature of the two currents happens to vary. When, for instance, as is frequently the case at sea, a considerably warmer current of air comes suddenly in contact with a colder current having a lower position, the plane of separation of the former becomes condensed, and forms a mirror for all those objects which are in the lower current, so that their image is inversely reflected. As this surface of separation is not level throughout, various contractions and distortions result, which impart to the whole a singular appearance. On land, as for instance in the deserts of Africa, where the warmer current of air is on the surface of the ground, the aerial mirror is formed beneath the eye of the observer, by which the same phenomenon is produced that results from the reflection of objects on the surface of the water.

In the present case the temperature of the atmosphere was about ten degrees higher than that of the sea's surface at the point of observation. The surface of the current of warm air appeared like a light fog, inclining in the East towards the Spanish coast, and in the South-east to South towards the surface of the sea. Where it was highest it reached nearly five degrees above the horizon. The images of the s.h.i.+ps at anchor near Malaga, and those at sea under sail, appeared reversed, and a.s.sumed curiously fantastic forms, particularly in those places where the reflecting surface became irregular, and inclined towards the horizon. The appearance of these distorted s.h.i.+ps in the air, joining in the most singular way the real ones actually floating on the sea,--the warm vapour which is from time to time wafted on the face of the observer, as well as the perfect and almost death-like stillness which, under such circ.u.mstances, prevails both on the sea and in the atmosphere, may easily produce the belief in a mysterious power, among a people who are generally p.r.o.ne to ascribe to supernatural agencies every phenomenon they cannot understand or explain.

This "Fata Morgana"[10] was not merely interesting in itself, but also gave reason to indulge in the hope of a favourable wind. A light easterly breeze accordingly sprang up towards midnight, the current became reversed, the anchor was weighed, and all sail made with this favourable wind towards Gibraltar, the rock of which was distinctly recognizable through the misty air, at a distance of nearly sixty miles.

[Footnote 10: The name Morgana is of Breton origin, and signifies "sea woman," from _mor_, sea, and _gan_, a fine woman;--the fairy mermaid of English legendary tales.]

A calm still prevailed near Europa Point, but as the day wore on, the easterly breeze blew strong through the Straits, and, in company with innumerable other s.h.i.+ps, the Pillars of Hercules were at length pa.s.sed.

The wind freshened, and the frigate cracked merrily on down mid-channel; for, though the set of the current was dead against us, yet the wind proved more than a match for it, which in our case was the more apparent, that those merchantmen which sailed along the coast, not having the advantage of this wind, seemed as though left motionless in the rear.

When towards noon the _Novara_ was off the place where the _Caroline_ had been anch.o.r.ed, that s.h.i.+p was no longer visible. She had probably set sail in the morning. We supposed her to be among the crowd of s.h.i.+ps which were sailing in the fog, but did not discover her, even after we had overtaken and examined all of them. We now endeavoured to reach the Atlantic as speedily as possible, making from nine to ten knots an hour, and, with joyful sensations, sailed through those beautiful straits, on whose sh.o.r.es the ancient world unrolled its grand panorama, thanking Providence here, at the entrance of that vast ocean, which now shone so brilliantly, that we were permitted to carry the Austrian flag into distant regions.

At 4 P.M., aided by the fresh evening breeze, we pa.s.sed the most southerly point of Europe. We were just going to dinner when the last glimpse of the old world pa.s.sed before the cabin windows, and we gazed once more with sorrowing eyes at the rapidly-disappearing coast, which, illuminated by the rays of the setting sun, seemed to wave us a last farewell in letters of fire. However beautiful, however inspiring the prospect of our task; however inviting the magnificent ocean that lay extended under our eyes, magically lit up by the silvery beams of the bright moon s.h.i.+ning from a starry sky, yet the painful sensations of parting with that old world, with which so many pleasing a.s.sociations--so many cherished recollections were bound up, had a powerful influence, and gave rise to melancholy impressions, of which we were only relieved by the comforting hope that we should one day return to all so dear to us.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CAPE TRAFALGAR.]

The night was delightful. Not a single cloud obscured the sky, and the s.h.i.+p, with all sails swelled by a fair wind, ploughed the dark waves, leaving a glittering track behind. We were now on the ocean! Below, blue, foam-crested billows; above, the sky studded with stars;--below, the wide desert of the sea; above, the infallible guides to lead us safely through it.

We awoke to new activity on that great element, which conceals so many charms and so many hards.h.i.+ps, where the continued alternations of hope and fear, of enjoyment and privation--where weariness and disappointment, and yet again the new strength imparted by returning success--so excitingly animate, and so gloriously manifest the innate power of the human mind.

Life on board, the various excitements at sea, the different countries and people seen during a voyage, all tend to arouse feelings and sensations which are reserved for the mariner alone, and which render his life, if he knows how to use it properly, happy and most enviable. At sea the mental and physical eye gains strength, man there seeks to unravel Nature in all her phases, and to know and to admire more thoroughly her works. The seaman owes his energy, his straightforwardness, and his piety, to a life spent in the midst of nature, to his direct intercourse with creation.

Between him and the Sovereign of the Universe there is, as it were, no mediator--he lives and labours uninterruptedly on the steps of the throne of his Creator and Preserver. In this great temple he directs to Him alone his complaints, his thanks, and his prayers. At sea he learns law and order from Nature herself in her constantly-recurring functions; here he admires the omnipotence and goodness of G.o.d in the sunrise after a stormy night, and in the brightness of the moon that lights up his path; here he learns by his actual experience the truth of that maxim of life, that "G.o.d only helps him who helps himself."

The wind, hitherto easterly, chopped round to the North-east, which, according to Maury's excellent directions and charts, may be considered as a trade wind, and in this season might be called so. In fact, the trade winds are produced by a current of air, which is directed towards the Equator, and only in consequence of the earth's motion round its axis acquires a north-easterly direction to the north of the equator, and a south-easterly to the south of it. But the trade winds become perceptible at a certain distance from the equator, or rather from the hottest zone of the earth's surface; and it is clear, that when the zone a.s.sumes a greater breadth, the boundary of the trade winds is extended further towards the poles, as the position of this zone and its heat obtained from the sun are the causes of these phenomena.

This is exactly the case in these waters; Africa, with its sandy deserts, presents a broader zone of the greatest heat than is possible on the sea, and the trade winds, accordingly, reach further towards the north. Its direction, however, cannot always be north-easterly, and depends necessarily on the direction of the northern boundaries of this zone of greatest heat. Accordingly, we at first had a more northerly wind, which in our progress towards Madeira became much more easterly. The weather continued on the whole beautiful, the sea was calm, and only the increased length of the waves showed the greater expanse of water we were now navigating.

We overtook some other s.h.i.+ps, which were sailing towards the west. As we saw nothing of the _Caroline_, we concluded that she was considerably ahead. The current, which near Gibraltar has a westerly direction, tending towards the Mediterranean, loses its power at a distance from the land, and half-way to Madeira it changes its direction in such a way that the s.h.i.+p is carried imperceptibly southwards, though only a few miles a-day.

This current is a lateral branch of the great Gulf Stream, which from the Gulf of Mexico is directed towards England, but about the lat.i.tude of New York sends off a branch in a south-easterly direction, which pa.s.ses round Madeira, and, near the Canaries, takes a parallel direction with the coast of Africa and forms the commencement of the Guinea current. The temperature of the sea water, which in the midst of this current is generally rather higher than that of the air, indicates to the mariner that he is in the Stream, and he must take care that his s.h.i.+p is not carried more to the south out of its course than he wishes. This shows clearly of what importance ocean-currents are to navigation; and it becomes evident that it is the duty of the scientific navigator not only to find out their direction and strength, but to use all means at his command, in order to ascertain their general movement in given districts of ocean.

For this latter purpose, it is customary (as often as circ.u.mstances seem to render it advisable) to throw overboard, and commit to the mercy of these currents, a well-corked empty bottle, in which has been deposited a card with the name and position of the s.h.i.+p. The bottle thus prepared, and made conspicuous by a covering of white linen cloth, or some such material, wanders. .h.i.ther and thither with the current, until it is picked up by some other s.h.i.+p, or is stranded anywhere on _terra firma_. The fact of such a bottle having been picked up is usually published, together with the particulars enclosed, by means of which it is obvious that an estimate can be formed of the average strength and direction of the current.

At 1 P.M. each afternoon, it was our custom to despatch one of these ocean-posts, under given conditions; but only rarely did we afterwards receive any information with respect to them. In each bottle was placed a card with the following particulars, written in German, English, French, Italian, and Spanish:--

"H.I.M. frigate, _Novara_, such and such a day of the week and month, hour at which thrown overboard, Longitude from Greenwich, Lat.i.tude. Whoever finds this bottle, which is about being thrown overboard well-corked and in good order, is requested to forward for publication, to the nearest spot at which there is a newspaper, the day, hour, lat.i.tude and longitude, in which the bottle has been found, together with the particulars of a similar nature already enclosed."

On the 7th June, towards evening, we were not more than 55 nautical miles distant from the E. point of Madeira, and as the wind was favourable and pretty fresh, it became necessary to shorten sail, so as to reach the anchorage by daybreak.

About 2.30 A.M., a vessel was perceived, which, by its lights, was made out to be a man-of-war. We now burned a port fire which was not merely replied to, but accompanied by signalling the number of the _Caroline_.

She was steering exactly our own course, and after having had to struggle with calms on nearing the coast, we cast anchor together, in the roads of Funchal, in 32 fathoms, sandy bottom, immediately South of the Loo Rock, a singular-looking, lofty, conical rock, which marks the best anchorage for large s.h.i.+ps. The U. S. corvette, _Dale_, lay in our vicinity, and sent a boat on board with an officer to extend to us the usual greetings, after which she saluted the Commodore's standard with a salute of thirteen guns,[11] which, as is the etiquette, we returned, gun for gun. We now had the pleasure of hearing that the small-pox had entirely disappeared on board the corvette _Caroline_, those attacked being now in a fair way of convalescence, while on board the _Novara_, the health of the s.h.i.+p's company was eminently satisfactory.

[Footnote 11: Commodores of other nations receive only eleven guns by way of salute.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: LOO ROCK (MADEIRA).]

[Ill.u.s.tration: SCENE IN MADEIRA.]

IV.

Madeira.

FROM THE 8TH TO THE 17TH OF JUNE, 1857.

First Impressions.--Difficulty in Landing.--Description of the Island.--History.--Unfavourable political circ.u.mstances connected with the cultivation of the ground.--Aqueducts.-- First Planting of the Sugar-cane.--Culture of the Vine.--Its Disease and Decay.--Cochineal as a compensation for its loss.-- Prospects of Success.--Climate.--A favourable Winter Residence for the Consumptive.--Strangers.--First Appearance of the Cholera.--Observations with the Ozonometer.--Great Distress among the Lower Cla.s.ses.--Liberal a.s.sistance from England.-- Decline of Commerce.--Inhabitants and their Mode of Life.-- Decrease of the Population, and its Causes.--Benevolent Inst.i.tutions.--Public Libraries.--The Cathedral.--Barracks.-- Prison.--Environs of Funchal.--Excursion to St. Anna.--Ascent of the Pico Ruivo.--Singular Sledge Party.--Return to Funchal.--Departure.

Delightful and striking is the first impression of Funchal, its luxuriant gardens smiling with gorgeous flowers, and its mountain sides cultivated almost to their summits; and although the grander and more gigantic forms of true tropical vegetation are wanting, and the landscape displays rather the character of an island off the sh.o.r.es of Italy than of the torrid zone--still Nature exhibits herself here with such varied charms that imagination can scarcely conceive a sweeter or lovelier scene. The most beautiful plants of the temperate and sub-tropical zones meet here in their highest development, whilst some representatives of the tropics intermixed enhance the richness of the wonderful picture. Odoriferous magnolias, large flowering tulip trees, plane trees, laurels, myrtles, acacias, pa.s.sion and trumpet flowers, tree-like fuchsias with immense blossoms, gaudy hortensias, sweet-smelling roses, blooming oleanders, aloes, 40 feet high, in full flower, imposing camellias with s.h.i.+ning green foliage, covered with beautiful rose-like flowers, chestnut trees, Brazilian pines, cypresses--all delight the eye, together with pomegranates, tamarinds, bananas, sugar-canes, coffee-shrubs, gigantic dragon trees, pine-apples, mangroves, papayas, and aquacates. Certainly, at a later date, we met in the primitive forests of the Nicobar islands, or in Java, Luzon, and the Caroline islands, with grander and more imposing scenery; but none that surpa.s.sed in fragrance, luxuriance, and loveliness the floral beauty of Madeira.

The anchorage of Funchal[12] is merely an open, exceedingly unsafe roadstead, which affords so little protection to s.h.i.+ps that often in southerly winds they are obliged to get under sail. This is especially the case in the winter, when the sea often rushes into the small unprotected bay with fearful violence. In October, 1842, five vessels were cast on sh.o.r.e within the s.p.a.ce of a few hours, and another sank whilst at anchor; a similar violent gale from the south raged in December, 1848, when a like number of s.h.i.+ps met with the same fate, and were dashed to pieces. The British sloop of war _Daphne_ only escaped by making the open sea in time.

In order to run less risk of being surprised by such gales, sailing vessels generally cast anchor to the south of the Loo Rock, where there is tolerably safe anchorage at a depth of twenty-five to thirty fathoms. In that position they are clear of the rocky headlands, and can therefore more easily set sail before the sea rushes in with all its irresistible violence. Steamers, which are better able to resist the force of the waves than sailing vessels, generally cast anchor nearer the sh.o.r.e, so that pa.s.sengers may be more easily landed, and coals s.h.i.+pped with greater facility.

[Footnote 12: The Portuguese for fennel-field, because the first discoverers of the island found this plant in great abundance.]

The Portuguese Government has done nothing to compensate for the shortcomings of nature with regard to safe landing-places in this island, otherwise so highly favoured. Though the rocky condition of the Funchal roads, (the only anchorage for larger s.h.i.+ps which the island possesses,) offers sufficient means for the construction of a harbour for boats and small vessels, yet the Government has. .h.i.therto done so little, that the landing of pa.s.sengers can only be effected by small, peculiarly-built boats, which, whilst tossed by the waves, have to be drawn on sh.o.r.e by the natives wading knee-deep in the water. If, therefore, the s.h.i.+p remains any length of time at Funchal, the communication with the land is attended with considerable expense. We laid out, in payments to the boatmen, during a stay of nine days, the sum of forty-five Spanish piastres[13] (9 15s.

sterling), although they had not over-charged us.

[Footnote 13: Spanish piastre = 4s. 4d. at par.]

The formalities at the custom-house, which strangers--even those belonging to a s.h.i.+p-of-war of a friendly Power--have to go through, are extremely annoying, and entail a great loss of time. Before landing, pa.s.sengers'

boats are boarded in the open roads by officers, who are stationed a few cable lengths from the sh.o.r.e. On landing, the stranger is obliged to repair to the custom-house, where even small and open packages are subjected to a second rigid examination. The time lost during this process, unnecessarily minute, is exceedingly unpleasant. The reason a.s.signed for these vexatious regulations is the extent to which, of late, smuggling has been carried on in the island, and which, in the opinion of the Governor, required these measures of precaution. It seems, however, that this system rather promotes contraband trading, by making it very lucrative. The Austrian consul, Charles Bianchi, Esq., did all in his power to diminish the frequency of the continual examinations, and likewise, in all other respects, endeavoured to promote the objects of the Expedition.

The greatest length of the island of Madeira, from Ponta Furado in the east, to Ponta do Pargo, in the west, amounts to 30 miles; its greatest breadth, from Ponta do Cruz in the south, to Ponta do Sa Jorge in the north, is 12-1/2 miles, and its area is about 240 square miles. This volcanic and mountainous island is intersected by innumerable deep ravines and defiles, and its whole surface is so much broken and irregular, that the representation Columbus once gave to Queen Isabella, of the Island of Jamaica, when she asked him for a description of its configuration, might perfectly be applied to the aspect of Madeira also. The great navigator, after having crushed a sheet of paper in his hand, and partly opened it again, placed it on the table, saying, he could convey to Her Majesty no clearer idea of that island than that crumpled piece of paper afforded.

A large portion of the island is not susceptible of cultivation; for the heathy region which const.i.tutes nearly one-third of its surface, and rises to a height of about 2500 feet above the level of the sea, is extremely steep, and too much exposed to winds and rains in summer, to admit of any kind of cultivation, even that of grain; whilst another not less considerable tract is too rocky and precipitous for that purpose. In the south of the island, the highest limit of cultivation is estimated to be at a height of 2500 feet, though in several places rye and barley grow at 2800 feet. In the north of the island, where a better system of irrigation prevails, the extreme boundary of cultivation reaches a higher alt.i.tude, and on the declivities of the Ribeiro Frio, it is met with at an elevation of above 3000 feet.

The earlier history of the island has had such a great influence upon its present industrial and social condition, that a few remarks on the most important features of its history may find a place here.

Madeira was discovered in 1419, by two Portuguese, Joa Gonsalvo da Camara[14] and Trista Teixeira, and, about 1421, a colony of Europeans settled on the island. Camara obtained, as a gift for his discovery, the south-eastern, and Teixeira the north-eastern part of the island, together with the most extensive powers and privileges. Funchal was then the princ.i.p.al place of Camara's territory, and Machico that of Teixeira's.

These two recipients (_donatarios_) enjoyed the exclusive privileges of erecting flour and saw mills; they alone were allowed to build ovens for public baking (private baking being permitted to all); they, moreover, had the monopoly of trading in salt, had claims upon the t.i.thes of the royal revenues, and were empowered to grant portions of the land to settlers.

Every settler was required to erect within five years a house, a cottage, or barn, on his ground, and to cultivate the land. If these conditions, at the expiration of the fixed period, had not been complied with, the donor had the right of granting the land to some one else. These grants were hereditary, and lapsed to the crown, or the donors, if alive, in the event of there being no direct successors. Such extraordinary privileges and immunities were deemed necessary in order to reconcile the holders with the dubious character of the early settlers in the island; for, though in those times the highest families in Portugal took part in all adventurous expeditions, yet most of the settlers were taken from prison and convict hulks; and the first settlement of Madeira had much more the character of a place of banishment for criminals than that of a colony of free emigrants.

[Footnote 14: Vulgarly called Zargo, or the Squinter.]

With a view to obtain more ground for cultivation, the first settlers are said to have set on fire so large a portion of the primeval forests, that they were soon unable to check the conflagration. According to old writers, the fire, particularly in the south of the island, lasted several years; and the heat is said to have been so intense, that many persons in order to escape from it, sought refuge on board the s.h.i.+ps in the roads of Funchal.[15]

[Footnote 15: The name _Madeira_, signifying in Portuguese "timber or wood," justifies the statement that the island was at one time richly wooded.]