A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Xiii Part 29

Bougainville bestowed on it the name of _Isle des Lanciers_, from the circ.u.mstance of his noticing about fifteen or twenty of its inhabitants carrying very long pikes, as in the act of brandis.h.i.+ng them against the s.h.i.+p, with signs of threatening. After this idle display of courage, they were seen to retire to the woods, where it was possible to distinguish their huts by means of gla.s.ses. The men are represented as being tall, and of a bronze colour, and dest.i.tute of clothing.

In the night of the 22d, a storm came on attended with thunder and rain, which obliged Bougainville to bring to, for fear of running against some of the lowlands in this sea. At day-break on the following day, land was seen bearing from N.E. by N. to N.N.W., which he stood for; at eight o'clock, he got about three leagues from its eastermost point; but then perceiving that there were breakers all along the opposite coast, which seemed low and covered with trees, he stood out to sea again, waiting for fairer weather to permit a nearer approach. This was done towards ten o'clock, when the island was not more than a league off. Similar difficulties, however, were experienced here, as at the former island; and after several fruitless attempts to find anchorage for the s.h.i.+ps, or a landing-place for the boats, it was necessary to abandon it, which was done with similar feelings of chagrin on the morning of the 24th. This island was denominated Harp Island, from its figure, and had inhabitants much resembling those of the one which had been previously discovered.

At five in the afternoon of this day, an island was discovered about seven or eight leagues distant; another, in the morning of the 25th, extending S.E. and N.W.; and the course was continued till the 27th, between several low and partly overflowed islands, four of which were examined and found quite inaccessible, or undeserving of being visited.

To the whole cl.u.s.ter, Bougainville gave the name of _Dangerous Archipelago_, by which they have been generally known since his day, and which sufficiently indicates the nature of the navigation around them.

He now shaped his course more southerly, in order to avoid a situation which presented him with so many difficulties, and yielded so few comforts; and on the 28th, he ceased to see land. About this time, it is noted, the scurvy made its appearance on eight or ten of the crew, which was imputed in a great degree to the moistness of the weather.

Lemonade was the princ.i.p.al article used for the removal or prevention of it. From the 3d of March till his arrival at New Britain, Bougainville constantly used Poissonier's distilling apparatus, by which, he says, above a barrel of tolerably fresh water was obtained daily.

On the 2d of April, the island of Otaheite, or Taiti, as Bougainville calls it, was got sight of, and soon afterwards were discovered some of the islands in its neighbourhood. But it was not till the 4th, that, when standing in for the sh.o.r.e of the former, as likely to realize the hopes of refreshment, which had been so eagerly entertained by the crew, some of the natives came off to them in their canoes, and commenced a friendly intercourse. Being ignorant of the coast and nature of the situation, for to Bougainville, at this time, Otaheite was a new discovery, a good deal of time was lost in examining the island for an anchoring-place, which was not determined on till the 6th. The numbers of islanders that surrounded the s.h.i.+ps as they neared the land, rendered the operations of mooring and warping somewhat difficult and troublesome. The manners too of these _easy_ people multiplied embarra.s.sments, of a particular kind, which it required no ordinary authority and self-denial to controul. In one instance, however, it is said, the presence of an Otaheitan Venus, in any thing else than a repulsive att.i.tude, had the effect of expediting the necessary work.

Both sailors and soldiers, it seems, pressed towards the hatch-way, where she had planted herself in all the revealed attraction of _native_ beauty; and the capstern was in consequence hove with more than common eagerness and expedition. But the utmost care, one may readily believe, was requisite to keep these enchanted fellows in good order. It is a trite remark, that the imaginary antic.i.p.ation of pleasure is seldom or ever equalled by the enjoyment of it. Independent of the causes which may account for such commonly experienced disappointment, it is ten to one in almost any case, but that in a world like this, some vexatious occurrence or other, nowise calculated on by an excited fancy, will altogether prevent the realization hoped for. Such was the fortune of Bougainville's cook, who, in spite of the law to the contrary, effected his escape to the sh.o.r.e in company with a complying damsel. The poor fellow soon returned on board, more dead than alive. Immediately on landing, it seems, the natives surrounded him, and with all the ease and genuine curiosity of naturalists inspecting a non-descript mineral, proceeded to turn him over and over, undressing him from head to foot, and pawing him about most tumultuously. They afterwards returned him his clothes, replacing whatever they had taken out of his pockets, and then brought the girl to him. But after such a scrutinizing and fatiguing process, it was no wonder that the terrified cook should desist from his addresses, and make the best of his way back. He afterwards said, his master might reprimand him as much as he pleased, but could never frighten him so much as he had been frightened on sh.o.r.e. When the s.h.i.+ps were moored, Bougainville with several of his officers went to survey the watering-place. The natives expressed joy at their arrival; and the chief of the district conducted them into his own house, and entertained them there with liberal hospitality. The rights of friends.h.i.+p, nevertheless, did not obliterate the inclination to thieving, so prevalent among these people, for a little before going on board, one of the gentlemen missed a pistol, which he had been in the habit of carrying in his pocket. The chief was immediately informed of it, and gave orders for searching all the persons present. Bougainville stopped him, and endeavoured to make him understand, that the thief would certainly be the victim of his own dishonesty, for that what he had stolen would kill him. This hint had the desired effect; for on the following day, the pistol was brought on board by the chief himself.

It was now proposed to erect a camp on sh.o.r.e for the sick, and to carry on the watering and other necessary operations. But this was soon opposed, the princ.i.p.al people of the district, headed by the chief, whose name was Ereti, and his father, coming to Bougainville, and expressing their unwillingness to suffer any of the crew to remain on sh.o.r.e at night, though they did not object to frequenting it in the day-time. To this tolerably reasonable intimation, Bougainville replied, that encampment was absolutely necessary for him, and would facilitate the friendly intercourse that had been commenced. On this, the natives held a council, the result of which was, that the chief came to Bougainville, and made enquiry of him, whether or not he intended to remain there for ever, and if the latter, how long it would be before he departed. He was informed that the s.h.i.+ps were to sail in eighteen days.

Another council was now held, at which Bougainville was desired to be present. A grave man who took an active part in the conference, was very desirous to reduce the time of encamping to half the number of days; but Bougainville still insisted on his original proposal, to which at last the council a.s.sented, and a good understanding was immediately restored.

The remainder of the stay here does not seem, however, to have been either very peaceable or free from danger. The thieving disposition of the natives occasioned several unpleasant contentions and perpetual jealousy. Two of them were murdered by some of the crew, but on what grounds, or by whom particularly, it is said, could not be discovered.

The circ.u.mstance led to much apprehension of an attempt to revenge, and measures were accordingly taken to render it inefficient, but they were seemingly unnecessary. The dangers at sea were much more formidable, and far less easily provided against. It is perhaps quite enough to say of them, that the s.h.i.+ps were for a considerable time in the greatest risque of being wrecked on the reef coast of the island, and that in the short s.p.a.ce of nine days during which they were here, they lost no less than six anchors. All this, it is probable, would have been avoided, if Bougainville had been better acquainted with the island. His description of it, indeed, is so imperfect, and in several respects erroneous, as to be altogether void of interest to any one who peruses what we have already given on the subject, in the preceding and present volumes. We shall accordingly pa.s.s it over, specifying only a few particulars respecting one of its natives Aotourou, who, at his own desire, accompanied Bougainville to Europe, and whose history has attracted a little notice.

This young man was the son of an Otaheitan chief, and a captive woman of the neighbouring isle of Oopoa, with the natives of which the Otaheitans often carried on war. Immediately on Bougainville's arrival at his native place, he expressed a determination to follow the strangers, which his countrymen seemed to applaud, and his zeal in which was so great as to overcome an attachment to a handsome girl, from whom he had to tear himself on coming aboard the s.h.i.+p. Bougainville admits, that in yielding to this determination, he hoped to avail himself of one whose knowledge of the language of the people in this part of the world, was likely to be useful in the remainder of his voyage; and besides this, which perhaps was laudable enough, or at least justifiable, he entertained the supposition, rather an unlikely one indeed, that through him on his return, _enriched by the useful knowledge_ which he would bring, a profitable union might be established betwixt these islanders and his own nation. The immediate advantages were not considerable, for this youth's talents were but slender, and the ultimate object was never accomplished, as he died of the small-pox in the voyage out to Otaheite.

Bougainville, notwithstanding, is deserving of credit for the care and attention he bestowed on him. He spared neither money nor trouble to render his residence at Paris both comfortable and useful, and so far succeeded, it appears, as that during the long time Aotourou was there, he gave no symptoms of weariness. But it is certain, on the other hand, that his advancement in useful knowledge was not very flattering to his teachers, and never equalled the favourable ideas Bougainville had entertained of his capabilities. Mr Forster says, in a footnote to the translation, that some Englishmen who saw him at Paris, and whose testimony, were their names mentioned, would be decisive with the public, were decidedly of opinion, that Aotourou was naturally a stupid fellow, an opinion, it seems, in which his own countrymen unanimously concurred. The amount of his improvements, even on Bougainville's own evidence, was, his _scarcely_ blabbering out some French words, his finding his way through Paris, his _hardly ever_ paying for things beyond their real value, and his _perfectly well knowing the days of the opera_, to the amus.e.m.e.nts of which he shewed an excessive partiality.

These degrees of refinement, it must be allowed, do not indicate superlative talents; yet, if one may judge from the advancement in _Frenchification_ made by many who have visited Paris from other countries, they may not depreciate the docility of poor Aotourou, much below the common average! He embarked at Roch.e.l.le in 1770, on board the Brisson, which was to take him to the Isle of France, whence, by orders of the ministry, he was to be conveyed home, which, as already mentioned, he never reached.

At eight in the morning of the 16th of April, the s.h.i.+ps were about ten leagues N.E. by N. off the north point of Otaheite, from which point, Bougainville now took his departure. He got sight of some land in the vicinity on the same day, and shaped his course so as to avoid what Roggewein called the Pernicious Isles. During the remainder of this month, the weather continued very fine, and the winds were chiefly from the east inclining to the north. In the first week of May, several islands were discovered, which Bougainville divided into two cl.u.s.ters, calling one the Archipelago of Bourbon, and the other the Archipelago of the Navigators. Some of them, it is probable, had been known before, as the ascertained longitude corresponded tolerably well with that which Abel Tasman gave for the isles of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, &c. bad weather came on the 6th of this month, and continued with scarcely any interruption till the 20th, during which period, calms, rains, and westerly winds were to be encountered. The situation of the s.h.i.+ps had now become very distressing. There was a scarcity of water and wholesome provisions; the scurvy broke out among the crew, and several men were affected with venereal symptoms, the consequence, it is said, of infection got at Otaheite. Hence it is asked, but by no means is the affirmative reply distinctly a.s.serted, if the English brought it there?

This subject has been discussed with tolerable freedom in another part of this work, and need not be resumed here. Such critical circ.u.mstances induced Bougainville to use all possible speed in getting to some place of refreshment, and of course materially interfered with his plan of making discoveries.

On the 22d of May, two isles were observed, the most southerly bearing from S. by E. to S.W. by S., and seeming to be about twelve leagues long, in a N.N.W. direction; the other bore from S.W. 1/2 S. to W.N.W., and having been first seen at day-break, was called Aurora. To the former, in honour of the day, was given the name of _Isle de la Pentecote_, or Whitsun Isle. Bougainville attempted to pa.s.s betwixt these two islands, but the wind failing him, he was obliged to go to leeward of Aurora. In getting to the northward, along its eastern sh.o.r.e, he saw a little isle, rising like a sugar-loaf and bearing N. by W.

which he denominated Peak of the Etoile. He now ranged along the Isle of Aurora, at about a league and a half distant. It is described as about ten leagues in length, but not more than two in breadth, with steep sh.o.r.es, and as covered with wood. At two in the afternoon, when coasting this isle, the summits of high mountains were perceived over it, about ten leagues off, which belonged to another island, as was found next morning. This island lay S.W. of Aurora, and at the nearest part was about three or four leagues from it. Several canoes were seen along its coasts, but none of the natives put off to the s.h.i.+ps. Though no bottom could be found near the sh.o.r.e with fifty fathom, yet Bougainville resolved, if possible, to make a landing on it, in order to get wood and necessary refreshments. A party of men was accordingly sent off in three armed boats; and effected a landing without any opposition.

Bougainville himself and some others went to join this party in the afternoon, and found it busily employed as directed, the natives lending considerable a.s.sistance by conveying wood, &c. to the boats. At first, indeed, they presented themselves in an armed posture, and seemed resolved to prevent any intrusion on their ground, but the prudent and conciliatory conduct of the officers effected a relinquishment of immediate hostility. This, it is thought, was but deceitful, and apparently intended to throw the party off its guard. Very probably, they meditated a serious attack, but were disconcerted by the party embarking sooner than they expected. In doing so, they exhibited what had continued to actuate them, for when the party put off in their boats, these people followed it, and showed their dexterity in throwing stones and arrows, from which they did not desist, till twice fired on by the crew. These savages are unfavourably described; they are said to have been ugly, of short stature, and ill proportioned; and as they were affected with a disease which Bougainville considered leprosy, this island got the name of Isle of Lepers. The few women that were seen, at best rivalled the men in disagreeable appearance, and were about as naked.

Bougainville now made sail to the S.W. for a long coast in sight, extending as far as the eye could reach, from S.W. to W.N.W., but as there was little or no wind during the 24th, both day and night, he was left to the mercy of the currents, which would scarcely allow him to get three leagues off the Isle of Lepers. He advanced somewhat better on the 25th, though the Etoile still lay becalmed, and at last found himself, as it were, shut up in a great gulph in the land, which lay to the west.

Not knowing whether he was so or not, it became necessary to stand again towards that island, and in consequence the 25th was lost in making short tacks, which were the more required, as the Etoile did not feel the breeze till the evening.

The bearings taken on the 26th, shewed that the currents had taken them several miles to the southward of their reckoning. Whitsun-isle still appeared separated from the S.W. land, but by a narrower pa.s.sage, and what had before been considered a continued coast, was now found to be a cl.u.s.ter of islands. Some agreeable appearances induced several attempts at landing, but they were unavailing, and only exposed those that made them to attacks from the natives, who seemed to concur with the natural difficulties around their islands, in preventing too near an approach.

Bougainville bestowed the name of Archipelago of the Great Cyclades on these very numerous isles, which lie in 30 S. lat.i.tude, and 180 longitude west of Ferro, and which have been better known since the time of Cook by the name of New Hebrides. During Bougainville's being on board the Etoile about this time, transacting some necessary business, he had the opportunity of verifying a report, which had for a good while been circulated in both s.h.i.+ps, viz. that M. de Commercon's servant, named Bare, was a woman. Several suspicious circ.u.mstances had been noticed as to her s.e.x, and something amounting to a discovery of it had been made, it seems, by the _very discerning_ people of Otaheite; but now, she came to Bougainville, her face covered with tears, and confessed it, giving a history of herself, and an explanation of her reasons for undertaking so romantic an expedition. "She will be the first woman," says Bougainville, "that ever made such a voyage, and I must do her the justice to affirm, that she always behaved on board with the most scrupulous modesty. She was neither ugly nor handsome, and not more than twenty-six or twenty-seven years of age. It must be owned, that if the two s.h.i.+ps had been wrecked on any uninhabited island in the ocean, the fate of Bare would have been a very singular one." The idea perhaps is scarcely susceptible of embellishment, but one may wonder, that it never struck the fancy of a poet.

On the 29th of May, they lost sight of the land, which had so much but so fruitlessly engaged their attention, and sailed westward with a very fresh south-east wind. This brought them on the 4th June, to a low flat island, surrounded, by a dangerous shoal, to which with little courtesy, perhaps, to the G.o.ddess, was given the name of the Shoal of Diana. A sand-bank and breakers were discovered on the 6th, and indicated such a dangerous navigation, that Bougainville immediately resolved on altering his course, which he did by steering N.E. by N., abandoning entirely his scheme of proceeding westward, in the lat.i.tude of 15. He justifies this conduct by the reflection, that though he had persevered in his original intention, he must have reached the eastern coast of New Holland, which, estimating it by what Dampier ascertained of the western coast, would have proved both unimportant and inhospitable. The judicious reader, however, will allow far greater weight to the circ.u.mstances of his deficiency for an uncertain navigation, than to such hypothetical reasoning. He had only bread for two months, and pulse for forty days; and his salt meat had become so bad, that the crew preferred the rats to it, whenever they were fortunate enough to catch them.

The S.E. wind unluckily failing them, their course from the 7th made good, was only N. by E., when on the 10th at day-break, land was seen, bearing from E. to N.W., a delicious smell having previously intimated its vicinity. This was off the N.E. coast of New Holland, the pa.s.sage betwixt which and New Britain, Bougainville mistook for a deep gulph or bay, and which of course he had the utmost difficulty to get clear of, with an unfavourable wind, very bad weather, and a great south-eastern swell. This mistake seems to have occasioned him more danger and much greater hards.h.i.+ps than had yet been experienced. To this imaginary gulph, Bougainville gave the name of Gulph of the Louisiade, and that of Cape Deliverance to its N. or N.N.E. extremity, which he doubled after no less than a fortnight spent in extreme peril and continual fears. In the morning of the 28th, when about sixty leagues to the northward of this cape, and steering N.E. on the coast of New Britain, he discovered land to the N.W. nine or ten leagues off. This proved to be two isles, and about the same time there appeared a long high coast, extending to the northward for some distance, and then turning to N.N.W. His situation was extremely hazardous among these lands, to him altogether unknown, often surrounded with dangerous shoals, and his boats, which were occasionally sent out to sound, being sometimes beset by the natives. It was not till the 5th of July, that he succeeded in finding any thing like safe anchorage, which he at last effected in Carteret's Harbour, or, as he calls it, Port Praslin. It was here, as we have elsewhere related, that he found some vestiges of the Swallow's residence a short time before. The situation was far from yielding the advantages so much longed for; no refreshments could be procured for the sick, and scarcely any thing solid for the healthy. The miseries of famine stared them in the face, and the delay occasioned by the necessity of repairing the vessels, and the wretched state of the weather, aggravated their sufferings in the highest degree. At last, on the evening of the 24th, a breeze springing up from the bottom of the harbour, enabled them, with the help of the boats, to get out to sea, when they steered from E. by S. to N.N.E., turning to northward with the land. The longitude was corrected by observation on leaving Port Praslin, which gave a difference of about 3, the reckoning being to the eastward.

Bougainville now coasted New Britain for some time, pa.s.sing betwixt it and a series of islands, on which he bestowed the names of his princ.i.p.al officers. The sufferings of the crew for want of proper and sufficient victuals, were now extreme; but no one, we are told, was dejected or altogether lost patience. On the contrary, it was quite usual for both officers and men to dance in the evenings, as if in a time of the greatest ease and plenty. Such recreation, one may most certainly infer from Bougainville's own words, must soon have been performed very languidly, and in a little time longer ceased entirely; for it became necessary to shorten even the small allowance of food, which, repeated attempts at landing on different sh.o.r.es failed to augment, and the quality of the provisions too, was such, as in the emphatic language of Bougainville, rendered those the hardest moments of the sad days they pa.s.sed, when the bell gave notice to receive the disgusting and unwholesome fare. The scurvy also made fearful impression on them after leaving Port Praslin; no one could be said to be quite free from it, and half of the s.h.i.+ps' companies could not do duty. But such misery was now near a termination, for having navigated, with several nautical difficulties, a strait formed by the Papou Isles denominated _Pa.s.sage des Francois_, the s.h.i.+ps came to an anchor on the last day of August, in Cajeli Bay, on the coast of the island Boero, where there was a Dutch settlement, and where provisions of an excellent sort, and the necessary refreshments, were got in abundance. The effects of such a favourable change were most speedy and obvious, so that in the course of six days, all things were ready for prosecuting the voyage. Bougainville therefore left Boero on the 7th September, and steered successively N.E. by N. and N.N.E in order to clear the guiph of Cajeli. Having accomplished this, he directed his course through the straits of Bouton, of which, and of the adjacent coasts, he has given a tolerably minute description, useful, it is likely, to mariners. After this, he got sight of the high lands of the island Saleyer, on the 18th September, and pa.s.sed the strait betwixt it and the island of Celebes. On the 21st, he got sight of the isles Alambia, the position of which, as of several other interesting points in this navigation, it is candidly admitted, is very inaccurately laid down in the common French charts; but Bougainville takes the opportunity, which, it is believed, no one will grudge, of paying a tribute of commendation to the labours and worth of D'Anville.

His map of Asia, he says, published in 1752, gave him the greatest a.s.sistance, and is very good from Ceram to the isles of Alambia, Bougainville having verified his positions in this navigation. He adds, "I do this justice to M. D'Anville's work with pleasure; I knew him intimately, and he appeared to me to be as good a member of society as he was a critic and a man of erudition." Bougainville now kept along the sh.o.r.e of Java, and after being out at sea for ten months and a half, arrived at Batavia on the 28th of September.

After the account we have already given of Batavia in this volume, it would be quite unnecessary to notice what Bougainville says of it. We shall only mention that his experience of its unhealthiness was such, as made him use all imaginable expedition to leave it, in order to save the lives of his people, who were reduced to a most deplorable state of health. What Captain Cook says of his old sail-makers is somewhat paralleled by what Bougainville relates of the effect of the novelties of Batavia on the Otaheitan man Aotourou, in keeping him so highly and constantly excited, as for long to preserve him from the prevailing illnesses. At last, we are told, the poor fellow fell sick, and it is mentioned, evidently in praise of his docility, that he became as good a swallower of physic, as a man born in Paris! The inference from this is somewhat dubious, but not to be sceptical, _valeat quantum valere potest_. Aotourou's remembrance of the evils of Batavia was such, as prompted him, whenever he named it, to call it, in the language of his country, _enoua mate_, "the land which kills."

It was the 16th October when Bougainville quitted Batavia, on the 19th he cleared the straits of Sunda, and in little more than a fortnight afterwards, he came in sight of the Isle of France, where he found it necessary to put in, to have the frigate hove down and repaired, and to procure refreshments for his voyage home. Having accomplished these objects, he set sail on the 12th December, leaving the Etoile there to be careened, as his junction with her was no longer needed for either vessel. On touching at the Cape of Good Hope, he learned, as is elsewhere mentioned, that Captain Carteret was eleven days before him.

This, however, owing to the state of the Swallow, was an inconsiderable advantage, and soon ceased to exist. The particulars of the meeting which took place betwixt that vessel and Bougainville's, have been related in our account of Carteret's voyage, to which the reader is referred.

On the 4th of March, Bougainville got sight of the isle of Tereera, on the 14th of Ushant, and on the 16th entered the port of St Maloes, after a voyage of two years and four months.

END OF THE THIRTEENTH VOLUME.