A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Xvi Part 26

They produce fire both by collision and by attrition; the former by striking two stones one against another, on one of which a good deal of brimstone is first rubbed. The latter method is with two pieces of wood; one of which is a stick of about eighteen inches in length, and the other a flat piece. The pointed end of the slick they press upon the other, whirling it nimbly round as a drill; thus producing fire in a few minutes. This method is common in many parts of the world. It is practised by the Kamtschadales, by these people, by the Greenlanders, by the Brazilians, by the Otaheiteans, by the New Hollanders, and probably by many other nations. Yet some learned and ingenious men have founded an argument on this custom to prove, that this and that nation are of the same extraction. But accidental agreements, in a few particular instances, will not authorise such a conclusion; nor will a disagreement, either in manners or customs, between two different nations, of course, prove that they are of different extraction. I could support this opinion by many instances besides the one just mentioned.[18]

[Footnote 18: We formerly hazarded some observations, on this subject, which may properly claim regard, if the concurrent opinion of Cook be any commendation. It is rare with him to venture on theoretic conjectures; but his truly excellent remarks, so indicative of candid and unbia.s.sed enquiry, may justly serve as the basis of very extensive reasoning. His professional career, in short, may be considered as a course of experimental investigations, from which there results a system of philosophy of no ordinary interest or importance. Can one help regretting, that he did not live, like Newton, to deduce the legitimate consequences of his own discoveries? But, alas! how rapidly are we now approaching to the last suggestions of his sagacious mind!--E.]

No such thing as an offensive or even defensive weapon was seen amongst the natives of Oonalashka. We cannot suppose that the Russians found them in such a defenceless state; it is more probable that, for their own security, they have disarmed them. Political reasons too may have induced the Russians not to allow these islanders to have any large canoes; for it is difficult to believe they had none such originally, as we found them amongst all their neighbours. However, we saw none here but one or two belonging to the Russians. The canoes made use of by the natives are the smallest we had any where seen upon the American coast, though built after the same manner, with some little difference in the construction. The stern of these terminates a little abruptly; the head is forked, the upper point of the fork projecting without the under one, which is even with the surface of the water. Why they should thus construct them is difficult to conceive; for the fork is apt to catch hold of every thing that comes in the way; to prevent which, they fix a piece of small stick from point to point. In other respects, their canoes are built after the manner of those used by the Greenlanders and Esquimaux; the framing being of slender laths, and the covering of seal-skins. They are about twelve feet long, a foot and a half broad in the middle, and twelve or fourteen inches deep. Upon occasion, they can carry two persons; one of whom is stretched at full length in the canoe, and the other sits in the seat, or round hole, which is nearly in the middle. Round this hole is a rim or hoop of wood, about which is sewed gut-skin, that can be drawn together, or opened like a purse, with leathern thongs fitted to the outer edge. The man seats himself in this place, draws the skin tight round his body over his gut-frock, and brings the ends of the thongs or purse-string, over the shoulder to keep it in its place.

The sleeves of his frock are tied tight round his wrists, and it being close round his neck, and the hood drawn over his head, where it is confined by his cap, water can scarcely penetrate either to his body, or into the canoe. If any should, however, insinuate itself, the boatman carries a piece of spunge, with which he dries it up. He uses the double-bladed paddle, which is held with both hands in the middle, striking the water with a quick regular motion, first on one side and then on the other. By this means the canoe is impelled at a great rate, and in a direction as straight as a line can be drawn. In sailing from Egoochshak to Samganoodha, two or three canoes kept way with the s.h.i.+p, though she was going at the rate of seven miles an hour.

Their fis.h.i.+ng and hunting implements lie ready upon the canoes, under straps fixed for the purpose. They are all made, in great perfection, of wood and bone, and differ very little from those used by the Greenlanders, as they are described by Crantz. The only difference is in the point of the missile dart, which, in some we saw here, is not above an inch long; whereas Crantz says, that those of the Greenlanders are a foot and a half in length. Indeed, these darts, as well as some others of their instruments, are so curious, that they deserve a particular description; but, as many of them were brought away on board the s.h.i.+ps, this can be done at any time, if thought necessary. These people are very expert in striking fish, both in the sea, and in rivers. They also make use of hooks and lines, nets and wears. The hooks are composed of bone, and the lines of sinews.

The fishes which are common to other northern seas, are found here; such as whales, gramp.u.s.s.es, porpoises, swordfish, halibut, cod, salmon, trout, seals, flat-fish; several other sorts of small fish; and there may be many more that we had no opportunity of seeing.

Halibut and salmon seem to be in the greatest plenty, and on them the inhabitants of these isles subsist chiefly; at least, they were the only sort of fish, except a few cod, which we observed to be laid up for their winter store. To the north of 60, the sea is, in a manner, dest.i.tute of small fish of every kind; but then whales are more numerous.

Seals and that whole tribe of sea-animals, are not so numerous as in many other seas. Nor can this be thought strange, since there is hardly any part of the coast, on either continent, nor any of the islands lying between them, that is not inhabited, and whose inhabitants hunt these animals for their food and clothing. Sea-horses are, indeed, in prodigious numbers about the ice; and the sea-otter is, I believe, no where found but in this sea. We sometimes saw an animal, with a head like a seal's, that blew after the manner of whales. It was larger than a seal, and its colour was white, with some dark spots. Probably this was the sea-cow, or _manati_.

I think I may venture to a.s.sert, that sea and water fowls are neither in such numbers, nor in such variety, as with us in the northern parts of the Atlantic Ocean. There are some, however, here, that I do not remember to have seen any where else; particularly the _alca monochroa_ of Steller, before mentioned; and a black and white duck, which I conceive to be different from the stone-duck described by Krascheninicoff.[19] All the other birds seen by us are mentioned by this author, except some that we met with near the ice; and most, if not all, of these, are described by Martin in his voyage to Greenland.

It is a little extraordinary, that penguins, which are common in many parts of the world, should not be found in this sea. Albatrosses too are so very scarce, that I cannot help thinking that this is not their proper climate.

[Footnote 19: History of Kamtschatka. Eng. Trans. p. 160.]

The few land birds that we met with are the same with those in Europe; but there may be many others which we had no opportunity of knowing. A very beautiful bird was shot in the woods at Norton Sound, which, I am told, is sometimes found in England, and known by the name of Chatterer. Our people met with other small birds there, but in no great variety and abundance; such as the wood p.e.c.k.e.r, the bullfinch, the yellow finch, and a small bird called a t.i.t-mouse.

As our excursions and observations were confined wholly to the sea-coast, it is not to be expected, that we could know much of the animals or vegetables of the country. Except musquitoes, there are few other insects; nor reptiles, that I saw, but lizards. There are no deer upon Oonalashka, or upon any other of the islands. Nor have they any domestic animals, not even dogs. Foxes and weasels were the only quadrupeds we saw; but they told us, that they had hares also, and the _marmottas_ mentioned by Krascheninicoff.[20] Hence it is evident, that the sea and rivers supply the greatest share of food to the inhabitants. They are also obliged to the sea for all the wood made use of for building, and other necessary purposes; for not a stick grows upon any of the islands, nor upon the adjacent coast of the continent.

[Footnote 20: History of Kamtschatka, p. 99.]

The learned tell us, that the seeds of plants are, by various means, conveyed from one part of the world to another, even to islands in the midst of great oceans, and far remote from any other land. How comes it to pa.s.s, that there are no trees growing on this part of the continent of America, nor any of the islands lying near it? They are certainly as well situated for receiving seeds, by all the various ways I have heard of, as any of those coasts are that abound in wood.

May not nature have denied to some soil the power of raising trees, without the a.s.sistance of art? As to the drift-wood upon the sh.o.r.es of the islands, I have no doubt that it comes from America. For although there may be none on the neighbouring coast, enough may grow farther up the country, which torrents in the spring may break loose, and bring down to the sea. And not a little may be conveyed from the woody coasts, though they lie at a greater distance.[21]

[Footnote 21: More extensive observations than what Cook's time allowed him to make, would be requisite to determine the questions which he has just now started. Besides, it is fair to remark, that there is some reason for demurring at one of the premises, with which he sets out, viz. that the islands, he speaks of, are as well situate for receiving seeds, as any of the coasts are that abound in wood.

At least, before admitting it, we ought to be a.s.sured of the equal vicinity of sources from which these seeds might be received, the predominance or occasional alteration of currents fit for their conveyance, &c. On the other hand, what is conjectured about the variety of soils, is so obvious, as to need no pointing out. With respect to the drift-wood, it may be right to state, by way of corroborating a supposition hazarded by Cook, that there is reason to believe, that much of the internal parts of North America, and even the declivities, though not the summits of most of the high ranges of mountains traversing it, either have been, or are, well covered with trees. Here, it is worth while to allude to a very singular circ.u.mstance mentioned in the account of Lewis and Clarke's Travels to the Source of the Missouri, &c. viz. that a great number of the trunks of trees of the pine genus were found standing erect, and with their roots fixed, but in a state of decay, in the bottom of the Columbia river, on the west coast. It is difficult to explain this, but on the supposition of some considerable change in the course of the river; and it is sufficiently obvious, that such changes, which we know have often occurred elsewhere, might soon occasion the removal of trees from their original situation to any distance. We cannot spare time or room to carry on the investigation of the subject; but no reader can be at a loss to estimate the probable results of the fact now mentioned. To some persons, however, it may be necessary to mention, that the Missouri itself is a striking instance of both changeability of course, and a corresponding operation in transporting trees, &c.; the latter circ.u.mstance being apparently both the cause and the effect of the former. Thus we are informed in the work already referred to, that at the place where the party embarked on the last-mentioned river, its current, which was extremely rapid, brought down great quant.i.ties of drift-wood, that its bottom was full of logs of trees, and that the course of the water was frequently varying from the effects of sand-bars, &c. of its own formation. For an obvious reason, it is to be wished, that Cook had mentioned to what species of trees the drift-wood he found had belonged. How rarely are even intelligent persons quite aware of the importance of the facts which are presented to them; and how much has been lost, or which is, in fact, the same thing, not gained to science, in consequence of the carelessness with which they have been examined!--E.]

There are a greater variety of plants at Oonalashka, and most of them were in flower the latter end of June. Several of them are such as we find in Europe, and in other parts of America, particularly in Newfoundland; and others of them, which are also met with in Kamtschatka, are eat by the natives both there and here. Of these, Krascheninicoff has given us descriptions. The princ.i.p.al one is the _saranne_, or lily root, which is about the size of a root of garlic, round, made up of a number of small cloves, and grains like groats. When boiled, it is somewhat like saloop; the taste is not disagreeable, and we found means to make some good dishes with it. It does not seem to be in great plenty; for we got none but what Ismyloff gave us. We must reckon amongst the food of the natives, some other wild roots; the stalk of a plant resembling _angelica_, and berries of several different sorts; such as bramble-berries, cran-berries, hurtle-berries, heath-berries, a small red berry, which, in Newfoundland, is called partridge-berry, and another brown berry, unknown to us. This has somewhat of the taste of a sloe, but is unlike it in every other respect. It is very astringent, if eaten in any quant.i.ty. Brandy might be distilled from it. Captain Clerke attempted to preserve some; but they fermented, and became as strong as if they had been steeped in spirits.

There were a few other plants, which we found serviceable, but are not made use of by either Russians or natives. Such as wild purslain, pea-tops, a kind of scurvy-gra.s.s, cresses, and some others. All these we found very palatable, dressed either in soups or in sallads. On the low ground, and in the vallies, is plenty of gra.s.s, which grows very thick, and to a great length. I am of opinion, that cattle might subsist at Oonalashka all the year round, without being housed. And the soil, in many places, seemed capable of producing grain, roots, and vegetables. But, at present, the Russian traders, and the natives, seem satisfied with what nature brings forth.

Native sulphur was seen amongst the inhabitants of the island; but I had no opportunity of learning where they got it. We found also ochre, a stone that gives a purple colour, and another that gives a very good green. It may be doubted, whether this last is known. In its natural state, it is of a greyish green colour, coa.r.s.e and heavy. It easily dissolves in oil; but when put into water it entirely loses its properties. It seemed to be scarce in Oonalashka; but we were told, that it was in greater plenty on the island Oonemak. As to the stones about the sh.o.r.e and hills, I saw nothing in them that was uncommon.[22]

[Footnote 22: Very probably the stone that gave a green colour was an ore of copper; but the scanty description renders it difficult to ascertain the species. The other, which is said to have given a purple colour, may also have contained the same metal.--E.]

The people of Oonalashka bury their dead on the summits of hills, and raise a little hillock over the grave. In a walk into the country, one of the natives, who attended me, pointed out several of these receptacles of the dead. There was one of them, by the side of the road leading from the harbour to the village, over which was raised a heap of stones. It was observed, that every one who pa.s.sed it, added one to it. I saw in the country several stone-hillocks, that seemed to have been raised by art. Many of them were apparently of great antiquity.

What their notions are of the Deity, and of a future state, I know not. I am equally unacquainted with their diversions; nothing having been seen that could give us an insight into either.

They are remarkably cheerful and friendly amongst each other, and always behaved with great civility to us. The Russians told us, that they never had any connections with their women, because they were not Christians. Our people were not so scrupulous; and some of them had reason to repent that the females of Oonalashka encouraged their addresses without any reserve; for their health suffered by a distemper that is not unknown here. The natives of this island are also subject to the cancer, or a complaint like it, which those whom it attacks are very careful to conceal. They do not seem to be long-lived. I no where saw a person, man or woman, whom I could suppose to be sixty years of age; and but very few who appeared to be above fifty. Probably their hard way of living may be the means of shortening their days.

I have frequently had occasion to mention, from the time of our arrival in Prince William's Sound, how remarkably the natives, on this north-west side of America, resemble the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, in various particulars of person, dress, weapons, canoes, and the like. However, I was much less struck with this, than with the affinity which we found subsisting between the dialects of the Greenlanders and Esquimaux, and those of Norton's Sound and Oonalashka. This will appear from a table of corresponding words which I put together.

It must he observed, however, with regard to the words which we collected on this side of America, that too much stress is not to be laid upon their being accurately represented; for, after Mr Anderson's death, we had few who took much pains about such matters; and I have frequently found, that the same words written down by two or more persons, from the mouth of the same native, on being compared together, differed not a little. But still, enough is certain, to warrant this judgment, that there is great reason to believe, that all these nations are of the same extraction; and if so, there can be little doubt of there being a northern communication of some sort, by sea, between this west side of America and the east side, through Baffin's Bay, which communication, however, may be effectually shut up against s.h.i.+ps by ice, and other impediments. Such, at least, was my opinion at this time.[23]

[Footnote 23: This subject has been alluded to in the Introduction, and will in all probability receive consideration in the course of this Collection. It is unnecessary, therefore, to enter upon it in this place. We shall merely mention a few particulars. The west coast of Greenland has not been explored beyond 72 lat.i.tude. Little or nothing, that can be relied on, is known concerning the sea of Davis or Baffin's Bay; the latter, indeed, being generally considered as imaginary, and having no other evidence for its existence, than the a.s.sertions, of a man conceived unworthy of credit. The whole distance from the coast of that bay, as commonly laid down, to the point where Hearne saw the sea, viz. in 69 lat.i.tude, being about sixty degrees of longitude, is totally unknown. The same thing is to be said of both the s.p.a.ce betwixt the last mentioned spot, and that at which Mackenzie's river is conceived to enter, which is denominated the Arctic Sea, amounting to upwards of twenty degrees more, and also of about an equal s.p.a.ce betwixt this last position and Icy Cape, the highest point at which Captain Cook arrived in this voyage. If any pa.s.sage do exist, it is certain, that it must be beyond 69 lat.i.tude, as high as which, it has been indubitably proved by the labours of Cook, Mackenzie, and Hearne, that the continent of America is unbroken by any navigable pa.s.sage from sea to sea. Above that lat.i.tude, it is not only possible, but also even probable, that the Arctic Sea, supposing it to be the same which Mackenzie and Hearne saw, and that it is equally low down, or nearly so, throughout the other s.p.a.ces alluded to, may, in some peculiarly mild seasons, admit the pa.s.sage of canoes, if not of larger vessels. The circ.u.mstance of a much higher lat.i.tude having been actually navigated in the Atlantic Ocean, might seem to warrant such an opinion, and would, of course, justify some renewed attempts in such an enterprise, were it not, that it has been proved by the present voyage, that the ice extends lower down in the Pacific Ocean, and that there is no small reason to believe, that Greenland forms an integral part of the American continent. Still, however, in every view of the subject, there does appear encouragement to make some experiments of the nature of Hearne's and Mackenzie's, particularly towards the east of the track explored by the former; and it is even extremely probable, that some marine co-operation in the direction of both Hudson's Bay and Davis' Strait, would facilitate and secure some discovery of more utility, than a mere improvement of our maps. But it is improper to disburden imagination on such a subject in this place.--E.]

I shall now quit these northern regions, with a few particulars relative to the tides and currents upon the coast, and an account of the astronomical observations made by us in Samganoodha harbour.

The tide is no where considerable but in the great river.[24]

[Footnote 24: Cook's River.]

The flood comes from the south or south-east, every where following the direction of the coast to the north-westward. Between Norton Sound and Cape Prince of Wales, we found a current setting to the north-west, particularly off the cape and within Sledge Island. But this current extended only a little way from the coast, nor was it either consistent or uniform. To the north of Cape Prince of Wales, we found neither tide nor current, either on the American or on the Asiatic coast, though several times looked for. This gave rise to an opinion entertained by some on board our s.h.i.+ps, that the two coasts were connected, either by land or by ice; which opinion received some strength, by our never having any hollow waves from the north, and by our seeing ice almost the whole way across.

The following are the results of the several observations made ash.o.r.e, during our stay in the harbour of Samganoodha.

The lat.i.tude, by the mean of several observed meridian alt.i.tudes of the sun, 53 5' 0"

By the mean of 20 sets of lunar observations, } 193 47 45 / with the sun east of the } The longitude { moon / By the mean of 14 sets, with the sun and stars } 193 11 45 west of the moon / ------------- The mean of these 193 29 45 The longitude a.s.sumed 193 30 0

By the mean of equal alt.i.tudes of the sun, taken on the 12th, 14th, 17th, and 21st, the time-keeper was found to be losing on mean time 8", 8 each day; and, on the last of these days, was too slow for mean time 13^h 46^m 43^s, 98. Hence the time-keeper must have been too slow on the 4th, the day after our arrival, by 13^h 44^m 26^s, 62; and the longitude, by Greenwich rate, will be 13^h 23^m 53^s, 8 200 58 27

By King George's (or Nootka) Sound rate, 12^h 56^m 40^s, 4 194 10 6

The 30th of June, the time-keeper, by the same rate, gave 193 12 0

The error of the time-keeper, at that time, was 0 18 0 W.

At this time, its error was 0 39 54 E.

The error of the time-keeper, between our leaving Samganoodha, and our return to it again, was 0 57 54

On the 12th of October, the variation /A.M. 20 17' 2" Mean 19 59'

By the mean of three compa.s.ses, P.M. 19 41' 27 / 15" East.

Dip of the needle / Unmarked end Dipping, /68 45' Face / 69 30'

Marked end / face East 69 55 / West 69 17

Mean of the dip of the north end of the needle 62 23' 30".

SECTION XII.

_Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views,--The Island Amoghta.--Situation of a remarkable Rock.--The Strait between Oonalashka and Oonella repa.s.sed.--Progress to the South.--Melancholy Accident on board the Discovery.--Mowee, one of the Sandwich Islands, discovered.--Intercourse with the Natives.--Visit from Terreeoboo.--Another Island, called Owhyhee, discovered.--The s.h.i.+ps ply to windward to get round it.--An Eclipse of the Moon observed.--The Crew refuse to drink Sugar-cane Beer.--Cordage deficient in Strength.--Commendation of the Natives of Owhyhee.--The Resolution gets to Windward of the Island.--Her Progress down the South-East Coast.--Views of the Country, and Visits from the Natives.--The Discovery joins.--Slow Progress Westward.--Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr Bligh.--Vast Concourse of the Natives.--The s.h.i.+ps anchor in the Bay._

In the morning of Monday the 26th, we put to sea from Samganoodha harbour; and, as the wind was southerly, stood away to the westward.

My intention was now to proceed to Sandwich Islands, there to spend a few of the winter months, in case we should meet with the necessary refreshments, and then to direct our course to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour to be there by the middle of May, the ensuing summer. In consequence of this resolution, I gave Captain Clerke orders how to proceed, in case of separation; appointing Sandwich Islands for the first place of rendezvous, and the harbour of Petropaulowska, in Kamtschatka, for the second.

Soon after we were out of the harbour, the wind veered to the S.E. and E.S.E., which, by the evening, carried us as far as the western part of Oonalashka, where we got the wind at S. With this we stretched to the westward, till seven o'clock the next morning, when we wore, and stood to the E. The wind, by this time, had increased in such a manner as to reduce us to our three courses. It blew in very heavy squalls, attended with rain, hail, and snow.

At nine o'clock in the morning of the 28th, the island of Oonalashka bore S.E., four leagues distant. We then wore and stood to the westward. The strength of the gale was now over, and toward evening the little wind that blew insensibly veered round to the E., where it continued but a short time before it got to N.E., and increased to a very hard gale with rain. I steered first to the southward, and as the wind inclined to the N. and N.W., I steered more westerly.

On the 29th, at half past six in the morning, we saw land extending from E. by S. to S. by W., supposed to be the island Amoghta. At eight, finding that we could not weather the island, as the wind had now veered, to the westward, I gave over plying, and bore away for Oonalashka, with a view of going to the northward and eastward of that island, not daring to attempt a pa.s.sage to the S.E. of it, in so hard a gale of wind. At the time we bore away, the land extended from E.

by S. 1/2 S. to S.S.W., four leagues distant. The longitude by the time-keeper was 191 17', and the lat.i.tude 53 38'. This will give a very different situation to this island from that a.s.signed to it upon the Russian map. But it must be remembered, that this is one of the islands which Mr Ismyloff said was wrong placed. Indeed, it is a doubt if this be Amoghta;[1] for after Ismyloff had made the correction, no land appeared upon the map in this lat.i.tude; but, as I have observed before, we must not look for accuracy in this chart.