A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Xvi Part 32

We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till morning, but in vain. They told us, that if this transaction should come to the knowledge of the king, or chiefs, it might be attended with the most fatal consequences to their whole society; in order to prevent which they had been obliged to come off to us in the dark; and that the same precaution would be necessary in returning on sh.o.r.e. They informed us farther, that the chiefs were eager to revenge the death of their countrymen; and particularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, they said, was our mortal and implacable enemy; and desired nothing more ardently than an opportunity of fighting us; to which the blowing of the conchs, we heard in the morning, was meant as a challenge.

We learned from these men, that seventeen of their countrymen were killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom five were chiefs; and that Kaneena and his brother, our very particular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the observatory, three of whom were also of the first rank.

About eleven o'clock our two friends left us, and took the precaution to desire, that our guard-boat might attend them, till they had pa.s.sed the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which might alarm their countrymen on sh.o.r.e, and expose them to the danger of being discovered. This request was complied with; and we had the satisfaction to find, that they got safe and undiscovered to land.

During the remainder of this night, we heard the same loud howling and lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early in the morning, we received another visit from Koah. I must confess, I was a little piqued to find, that notwithstanding the most evident marks of treachery in his conduct, and the positive testimony of our friends the priests, he should still be permitted to carry on the same farce, and to make us at least appear to be the dupes of his hypocrisy.

Indeed our situation was become extremely awkward and unpromising; none of the purposes for which this pacific course of proceeding had been adopted, having hitherto been in the least forwarded by it. No satisfactory answer whatever had been given to our demands; we did not seem to be at all advanced toward a reconciliation with the islanders; they still kept in force on the sh.o.r.e, as if determined to resist any attempts we might make to land; and yet the attempt was become absolutely necessary, as the completing our supply of water would not admit of any longer delay.

However, it must be observed, in justice to the conduct of Captain Clerke, that it was very probable, from the great number of the natives, and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect us, an attack could not have been made without some danger; and that the loss of a very few men might have been severely felt by us, during the remaining course of our voyage. Whereas the delaying the execution of our threats, though on the one hand it lessened their opinion of our power, had the effect of causing them to disperse on the other. For this day, about noon, finding us persist in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every mode of defiance, marched off over the hills, and never appeared afterward.

Those, however, who remained, were not the less daring and insolent.

One man had the audacity to come within musket-shot a-head of the s.h.i.+p; and, after slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on sh.o.r.e were exulting and encouraging his boldness. Our people were all in a flame at this insult, and coming in a body on the quarter-deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with these repeated provocations; and requested me to obtain permission for them from Captain Clerke, to avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of their commander. On my acquainting him with what was pa.s.sing, he gave orders for some great guns to be fired at the natives on sh.o.r.e; and promised the crew, that if they should meet with any molestation at the watering-place the next day, they should then be left at liberty to chastise them.

It is somewhat remarkable, that before we could bring our guns to bear, the islanders had suspected our intentions, from the stir they saw in the s.h.i.+p, and had retired behind their houses and walls.

We were therefore obliged to fire, in some measure, at random; notwithstanding which, our shot produced all the effects that could have been desired; for, soon after, we saw Koah paddling toward us, with extreme haste, and on his arrival we learned, that some people had been killed, and amongst the rest, Maiha-maiha, a princ.i.p.al chief, and a near relation of the king.[2]

[Footnote 2: The word _matee_ is commonly used, in the language of these islands, to express either killing or wounding; and we were afterwards told, that this chief had only received a slight blow on the face from a stone, which had been struck by one of the b.a.l.l.s.]

Soon after the arrival of Koah, two boys swam off from, the _morai_ toward the s.h.i.+ps, having each a long spear in his hand; and after they had approached pretty near, they began to chant a song in a very solemn manner, the subject of which, from their often mentioning the word _Orono_, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook was killed, we concluded to be the late calamitous disaster. Having sung in a plaintive strain for about twelve or fifteen minutes, during the whole of which time they remained in the water, they went on board the Discovery and delivered their spears, and after making a short stay, returned on sh.o.r.e. Who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony, we were never able to learn.

At night, the usual precautions were taken for the security of the s.h.i.+ps; and as soon as it was dark, our two friends, who had visited us the night before, came off again. They a.s.sured us, that though the effects of our great guns, this afternoon, had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by no means laid aside their hostile intentions, and advised us to be on our guard.

The next morning, the boats of both s.h.i.+ps were sent ash.o.r.e for water, and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover that service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests had sent us, was not without foundation; and that the natives were resolved to take every opportunity of annoying us, when, it could be done without much risk.

Throughout all this group of islands, the villages, for the most part, are situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is enclosed with stone walls, about three feet high. These, we at first imagined, were intended for the division of property; but we now discovered, that they served, and probably were princ.i.p.ally designed, for a defence against invasion. They consist of loose stones, and the inhabitants are very dexterous in s.h.i.+fting them with great quickness, to such situations, as the direction of the attack may require. In the sides of the mountain, which hangs over the bay, they have also little holes, or caves, of considerable depth, the entrance of which is secured by a fence of the same kind. From behind both these defences, the natives kept perpetually hara.s.sing our waterers with stones; nor could the small force we had on sh.o.r.e, with the advantage of muskets, compel them to retreat.

In this exposed situation, our people were so taken up in attending to their own safety, that they employed the whole forenoon in filling only one ton of water. As it was therefore impossible to perform this service, till their a.s.sailants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was ordered to dislodge them with her great guns, which being effected by a few discharges, the men landed without molestation. However, the natives soon after made their appearance again, in their usual mode of attack; and it was now found absolutely necessary to burn down some straggling houses near the well, behind which they had taken shelter. In executing these orders, I am sorry to add, that our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary cruelty and devastation. Something ought certainly to be allowed to their resentment of the repeated insults and contemptuous behaviour of the islanders, and to the natural desire of revenging the loss of their commander. But, at the same time, their conduct served strongly to convince me, that the utmost precaution is necessary in trusting, though but for a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands of private seamen or soldiers on such occasions. The rigour of discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is kept directed to its proper objects, lead them naturally enough to conceive, that whatever they have the power; they have also the right to do. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they are accustomed to expect punishment, they learn to consider it as the only measure of right and wrong; and hence are apt to conclude, that what they can do with impunity, they may do with justice and honour.

So that the feelings of humanity, which are inseparable from us all, and that generosity toward an unresisting enemy, which at other times is the distinguis.h.i.+ng mark of brave men, become but weak restraints to the exercise of violence, when opposed to the desire they naturally have of shewing their own independence and power.[3]

[Footnote 3: In the preceding remarks, we have another strong confirmation, if any additional one were wanting, of the opinions formerly given respecting the character and usual conduct of sailors.

Nor are they less imperative, as to the expediency of modifying the education and treatment of that useful cla.s.s of subjects, than what we ventured, on another occasion, to suggest. They have, however, the recommendation of experience, to which, in general, more regard is properly enough shewn, than can be expected towards arguments drawn from merely abstract opinions, too often so remote from the common track of life as to be quite inapplicable to the diversities and complicated relations of human societies.--E.]

I have already mentioned, that orders had been given to burn only a few straggling huts, which afforded shelter to the natives. We were therefore a good deal surprised to see the whole village on fire; and before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief, could reach the sh.o.r.e, the houses of our old and constant friends, the priests, were all in flames. I cannot enough lament the illness that confined me on board this day. The priests had always been under my protection; and unluckily the officers who were then on duty, having been seldom ash.o.r.e at the _morai_, were not much acquainted with the circ.u.mstances of the place. Had I been present myself, I might probably have been, the means of saving their little society from destruction.

Several of the natives were shot, in making their escape from the flames; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us all. As he was coming to the well for water, he was shot at by one of the marines. The ball struck his calibash, which he immediately threw from him and fled. He was pursued into one of the caves I have before described, and no lion could have defended his den with greater courage and fierceness, till at last, after having kept two of our people at bay for a considerable time, he expired, covered with wounds. It was this accident that first brought us acquainted with the use of these caverns.

At this time, an elderly man was taken prisoner, bound, and sent on board in the same boat with the heads of his two countrymen. I never saw horror so strongly pictured, as in the face of this man, nor so violent a transition to extravagant joy, as when he was untied, and told he might go away in safety. He shewed us he did not want grat.i.tude, as he frequently afterward returned with presents of provisions, and also did us other services.

Soon after the village was destroyed, we saw, coming down the hill, a man, attended by fifteen or twenty boys, holding pieces of white cloth, green boughs, and plantains, &c. in their hands. I know not how it happened, that this peaceful emba.s.sy, as soon as they were within reach, received the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not stop them. They continued their procession, and the officer on duty came up in time to prevent a second discharge. As they approached nearer, it was found to be our much-esteemed friend Kairekeea, who had fled on our first setting fire to the village, and had now returned, and desired to be sent on board the Resolution.

When he arrived, we found him exceedingly grave and thoughtful. We endeavoured to make him understand the necessity we were under of setting fire to the village, by which his house, and those of his brethren, were unintentionally consumed. He expostulated a little with us on our want of friends.h.i.+p, and on our ingrat.i.tude. And, indeed, it was not till now, that we learnt the whole extent of the injury we had done them. He told us, that relying on the promises I had made them, and on the a.s.surances they had afterward received from the men, who had brought us the remains of Captain Cook, they had not removed their effects back into the country with the rest of the inhabitants, but had put every thing that was valuable of their own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a house close to the _morai_, where they had the mortification to see it all set on fire by ourselves.[4]

[Footnote 4: How painful, on the other hand, must this occurrence have proved to a man of King's refined feelings and sentiments! But it ought not to be forgotten, that even such an event, though not at all intended, was almost a necessary consequence of the conduct, which, in a moment of irritation, not however totally disjoined from every plea of prudence, he himself had thought right to prescribe. So impolitic, and so blind in the distribution of mischief, is revenge, though apparently sanctioned by the hope and calculation of advantage.--E.]

On coming on board, he had seen the heads of his countrymen lying on the deck, at which he was exceedingly shocked, and desired, with great earnestness, that they might be thrown overboard. This request Captain Clerke instantly ordered to be complied with.

In the evening, the watering party returned on board, having met with no farther interruption. We pa.s.sed a gloomy night; the cries and lamentations we heard on sh.o.r.e being far more deadful than ever. Our only consolation was, the hope that we should have no occasion, in future, for a repet.i.tion of such severities.

It is very extraordinary, that amidst all these disturbances, the women of the island who were on board, never offered to leave us, nor discovered the smallest apprehensions either for themselves or their friends ash.o.r.e. So entirely unconcerned did they appear, that some of them, who were on deck when the town was in flames, seemed to admire the sight, and frequently cried out, that it was _maitai_, or very fine.

The next morning, Koah came off as usual to the s.h.i.+ps. As there existed no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, I was allowed to have my own way. When he approached toward the side of the s.h.i.+p, singing a song, and offering me a hog and some plantains, I ordered him to keep off, cautioning him never to appear again without Captain Cook's bones, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his frequent breach of promise. He did not appear much mortified with this reception, but went immediately on sh.o.r.e, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were pelting the waterers with stones. The body of the young man who had been killed the day before, was found this morning, lying at the entrance of the cave; and some of our people went and threw a mat over it; soon after which, they saw some men carrying him off on their shoulders, and could hear them singing, as they marched, a mournful song.

The natives, being at last convinced that it was not the want of ability to punish them, which had hitherto made us tolerate their provocations, desisted from giving us any farther molestation; and, in the evening, a chief called Eappo, who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the very first consequence, came with presents from Terreeoboo to sue for peace. These presents were received, and he was dismissed with the same answer which had before been given, that until the remains of Captain Cook should be restored, no peace would be granted. We learned from this person, that the flesh of all the bodies of our people, together with the bones of the trunks, had been burnt, that the limb bones of the marines had been divided amongst the inferior chiefs, and that those of Captain Cook had been disposed of in the following manner: The head to a great chief called Kahoo-opeon, the hair to Maiha-maiha, and the legs, thighs, and arms to Terreeoboo.

After it was dark, many of the inhabitants came off with roots and other vegetables, and we also received two large presents of the same articles from Kaireekeea.

The 19th was chiefly taken up in sending and receiving the messages which pa.s.sed between Captain Clerke and Terreeoboo. Eappo was very pressing that one of our officers should go on sh.o.r.e; and, in the mean time, offered to remain as a hostage on board. This request, however, it was not thought proper to comply with; and he left us with a promise of bringing the bones the next day. At the beach, the waterers did not meet with the least opposition from the natives; who, notwithstanding our cautious behaviour, came amongst us again, without the smallest appearance of diffidence or apprehension.

Early in the morning of the 20th, we had the satisfaction of getting the foremast stepped. It was an operation attended with great difficulty and some danger, our ropes being so exceedingly rotten, that the purchase gave way several times.

Between ten and eleven o'clock, we saw a great number of people descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a kind of procession, each man carrying a sugar-cane or two on his shoulders, and bread-fruit, _taro_, and plantains in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers; who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums, while those who had followed them, advanced one by one, and having deposited the presents they had brought, retired in the same order. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in his hands; and having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent to him.

Captain Clerke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace to receive them, and ordered me to attend him in the cutter. When we arrived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the captain the bones wrapped up in a large quant.i.ty of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers.

He afterward attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed upon to go on board, probably not choosing, from a sense of decency, to be present at the opening of the bundle. We found in it both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known from a remarkable scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore-finger, the whole length of the metacarpal bone; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the scalp, with the hair upon it cut short, and the ears adhering to it; the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them; the thigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the feet.

The ligaments of the joints were entire, and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and were cut in several places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part of it, but the skull was free from any fracture.

The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, Eappo told us, had been seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using every means to recover them.

The next morning, Eappo and the king's son came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince us that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, were most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given us the most convincing proof of it in their power; and that they had been prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still our enemies. He lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs we had killed, some of whom, he said, were amongst our best friends. The cutter, he told us, was taken away by Pareea's people, very probably in revenge for the blow that had been given him, and that it had been broken up the next day. The arms of the marines which we had also demanded, he a.s.sured us had been carried off by the common people, and were irrecoverable; the bones of the chief alone having been preserved, as belonging to Terreeoboo and the Erees.

Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to _taboo_ all the bay; and in the afternoon, the bones having been put into a coffin, and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. What our feelings were on this occasion I leave the world to conceive; those who were present know that it is not in my power to express them.

During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen paddling in the bay; the _taboo_ which Eappo had laid on it the day before, at our request, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us.

We a.s.sured him that we were now entirely satisfied; and that as the _Orono_ was buried, all remembrance of what had pa.s.sed was buried with him. We afterward desired him to take off the _taboo_, and to make it known, that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The s.h.i.+ps were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board, expressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their satisfaction at our reconciliation. Several of our friends, who did not visit us, sent presents of large hogs and other provisions.

Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but was refused admittance.

As we had now every thing ready for sea, Captain Clerke imagining, that if the news of our proceedings should reach the islands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders, to unmoor.

About eight in the evening we dismissed all the natives, and Eappo and the friendly Kaireekeea took an affectionate leave of us. We immediately weighed, and stood out of the bay. The natives were collected on the sh.o.r.e in great numbers; and, as we pa.s.sed along, received our last farewells with every mark of affection and good-will.[5]

[Footnote 5: Would it not be generally advantageous for mankind to consider, when they are about to engage, or are engaged, in hostilities against each other, that it is highly probable, nay in most cases certain, that they shall one day come to a good understanding, and regret that their altercation had been so mutually destructive? Would not a notion of this kind, far enough indeed from being any effect or symptom of weakness, contribute essentially to what is surely always a good thing, the moderation of men's pa.s.sions; and have, therefore, the beneficial tendency, at really the least expence and suffering, to accomplish the only legitimate and avowed end of war, a safe and honourable peace? But no termination of a struggle is ent.i.tled to be called either the one or the other, which, resulting merely from the experience of common exhaustion and mutual inability, leaves the parties to grumble over the relics of their animosity, and to brood on their misfortunes, till new means and spirits be produced to resume the conflict. There is much wisdom in the language which a deceased statesman used, when he spoke of "making peace in the spirit of peace," as the only remedy for the political disorders of the world. But this disposition, it seems morally certain, cannot exist, unless in union with the antic.i.p.ation of the comforts and vastly superior benefits which such a consummation can afford,--E.]

SECTION V.

_Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the South-East Side of Mowee.--Driven to Leeward by the Easterly Winds and Current.--Pa.s.s the Island of Tahoorowha.--Description of the South-West Side of Mowee.--Run along the Coasts of Ranai and Morotoi to Woahoo.--Description of the North-East Coast of Woahoo.--Unsuccessful Attempt to Water.--Pa.s.sage to Atooi.--Anchor in Wymoa Bay.--Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party on Sh.o.r.e.--Civil Dissensions in the Islands.--Visit from the contending Chiefs.--Anchor off Oneeheow.--Final Departure from the Sandwich Islands._

We got clear of the land about ten; and, hoisting in the boats, stood to the northward, with an intention of searching for a harbour on the S.E. side of Mowee, which we had heard frequently mentioned by the natives. The next morning we found ourselves driven to leeward by a heavy swell from the N.E., and a fresh gale springing up from the same quarter, carried us still farther to the westward. At midnight we tacked, and stood to the S. for four hours, in order to keep clear of the land; and at day-break, we found ourselves standing toward a small barren island, called Tahoorowa, which lies seven or eight miles to the S.W. of Mowee.

All prospect of examining more nearly the S.E. parts of Mowee being now destroyed, we bore away, and ran along the S.E. side of Tahoorowa.

As we were steering close round its western extremity, with an intention of fetching the W. side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our water, and observed the sea breaking on some detached rocks almost right a-head. This obliged us to keep away a league and a half, when we again steered to the northward; and, after pa.s.sing over a bank, with nineteen fathoms water, stood for a pa.s.sage between Mowee and an island called Ranai. At noon the lat.i.tude was by observation, 20 42'

N., and the longitude 203 22' E.; the southern extremity of Mowee bearing E.S.E. 1/4 E.; the southern extremity of Ranai W.N.W. 1/4 W.; Morotoi, N.W. and by N.; and the western extremity of Tahoorowa, S.

by E., seven miles distant. Our longitude was accurately deduced from observations made by the time-keeper before and after noon, compared with the longitude found by a great many distances of the moon from the sun and stars, which were also observed the same day.

In the afternoon, the weather being calm, with light airs from the W., we stood on to the N.N.W.; but at sun-set, observing a shoal, which appeared to stretch to a considerable distance from the W. point of Mowee, toward the middle of the pa.s.sage, and the weather being unsettled, we tacked, and stood toward the S.

The S.W. side of this island, which we now had pa.s.sed without being able to get near the sh.o.r.e, forms the same distant view with the N.E., as seen on our return from the N., in November 1778; the mountainous parts, which are connected by a low flat isthmus, appearing at first like two separate islands. This deception continued on the S.W. side, till we approached within eight or ten leagues of the coast, which, bending inward to a great depth, formed a fine capacious bay. The westernmost point, off which the shoal we have just mentioned runs, is made remarkable by a small hillock, to the southward of which there is a fine sandy bay, with several huts on the sh.o.r.e, and a number of cocoa-nut trees growing about them.

During the course of the day, we were visited by several of the natives, who came off to sell provisions, and we soon found that they had heard of our late unfortunate transactions at Owhyhee. They were very curious to learn the particulars from a woman who had concealed herself on board the Resolution, in order to take her pa.s.sage to Atooi; enquiring eagerly after Pareea and some other chiefs, and appearing much shocked at the death of Kaneena and his brother. We had, however, the satisfaction to find that, in whatever light the woman might have represented this business, it had no bad effect on their behaviour, which was remarkably civil and submissive.

The weather continued variable during the night; but in the morning of the 25th, having the wind at E., we ran along the S. side of Ranai, till near noon; after which, we had calms and baffling winds till evening, when we steered, with a light easterly breeze, for the W.

part of Morotoi. In the course of the day, the current, which, from the time we left Karakakooa Bay, had set from the N.E., changed its direction to the S.E.