Voyages of Samuel De Champlain Volume II Part 12

DEPARTURE FROM PORT ROYAL TO RETURN TO FRANCE.--MEETING RALLEAU AT CAPE SABLE, WHICH CAUSED US TO TURN BACK.

On the 17th of the month, in accordance with the resolution we had formed, we set out from the mouth of Port Royal with two barques, one of eighteen tons, the other of seven or eight, with the view of pursuing the voyage to Cape Breton or Canseau. We anch.o.r.ed in the strait of Long Island,[191]

where during the night our cable broke, and we came near being lost, owing to the violent tides which strike upon several rocky points in and about this place. But, through the diligent exertions of all, we were saved, and escaped once more.

On the 21st of the month there was a violent wind, which broke the irons of our rudder between Long Island and Cape Fourchu, and reduced us to such extremities that we were at a loss what to do. For the fury of the sea did not permit us to land, since the breakers ran mountain high along the coast, so that we resolved to perish in the sea rather than to land, hoping that the wind and tempest would abate, so that, with the wind astern, we might go ash.o.r.e on some sandy beach. As each one thought by himself what might be done for our preservation, a sailor said that a quant.i.ty of cordage attached to the stern of our barque, and dragging in the water, might serve in some measure to steer our vessel. But this was of no avail; and we saw that, unless G.o.d should aid us by other means, this would not preserve us from s.h.i.+pwreck. As we were thinking what could be done for our safety, Champdore, who had been again handcuffed, said to some of us that, if Pont Grave desired it, he would find means to steer our barque. This we reported to Pont Grave, who did not refuse this offer, and the rest of us still less. He accordingly had his handcuffs taken off the second time, and at once taking a rope, he cut it and fastened the rudder with it in such a skilful manner that it would steer the s.h.i.+p as well as ever. In this way, he made amends for the mistakes he had made leading to the loss of the previous barque, and was discharged from his accusation through our entreaties to Pont Grave who, although Somewhat reluctantly, acceded to it.

The same day we anch.o.r.ed near La Baye Courante, [192] two leagues from Cape Fourchu, and there our barque was repaired.

On the 23d of July, we proceeded near to Cape Sable.

On the 24th of the month, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we perceived a shallop, near Cormorant Island, coming from Cape Sable. Some thought it was savages going away from Cape Breton or the Island of Canseau. Others said it might be shallops sent from Canseau to get news of us. Finally, as we approached nearer, we saw that they were Frenchmen, which delighted us greatly. When it had almost reached us, we recognized Ralleau, the Secretary of Sieur de Monts, which redoubled our joy. He informed us that Sieur de Monts had despatched a vessel of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Poutrincourt, who had come with fifty men to act as Lieutenant-General, and live in the country; that he had landed at Canseau, whence the above-mentioned vessel had gone out to sea, in order, if possible, to find us, while he, meanwhile, was proceeding along the coast in a shallop, in order to meet us in case we should have set out, supposing we had departed from Port Royal, as was in fact the case: in so doing, they acted very wisely. All this intelligence caused us to turn back; and we arrived at Port Royal on the 25th of the month, where we found the above-mentioned vessel and Sieur de Poutrincourt, and were greatly delighted to see realized what we had given up in despair. [193] He told us that his delay had been caused by an accident which happened to the s.h.i.+p in leaving the boom at Roch.e.l.le, where he had taken his departure, and that he had been hindered by bad weather on his voyage. [194]

The next day, Sieur de Poutrincourt proceeded to set forth his views as to what should be done; and, in accordance with the opinion of all, he resolved to stay at Port Royal this year, inasmuch as no discovery had been made since the departure of Sieur de Monts, and the period of four months before winter was not long enough to search out a site and construct another settlement, especially in a large vessel, unlike a barque which draws little water, searches everywhere, and finds places to one's mind for effecting settlements. But he decided that, during this period, nothing more should be done than to try to find some place better adapted for our abode. [195]

Thus deciding, Sieur de Poutrincourt despatched at once some laborers to work on the land in a spot which he deemed suitable, up the river, a league and a half from the settlement of Port Royal, and where we had thought of making our abode. Here he ordered wheat, rye, hemp, and several other kinds of seeds to be sown, in order to ascertain how they would flourish. [196]

On the 22d of August, a small barque was seen approaching our settlement.

It was that of Des Antons, of St. Malo, who had come from Canseau, where his vessel was engaged in fis.h.i.+ng, to inform us that there were some vessels about Cape Breton engaged in the fur-trade; and that, if we would send our s.h.i.+p, we might capture them on the point of returning to France. It was determined to do so as soon as some supplies, which were in the s.h.i.+p, could be unloaded. [197]

This being done. Pont Grave embarked, together with his companions, who had wintered with him at Port Royal, excepting Champdore and Foulgere de Vitre.

I also stayed with De Poutrincourt, in order, with G.o.d's help, to complete the map of the coasts and countries which I had commenced. Every thing being put in order in the settlement. Sieur de Poutrincourt ordered provisions to be taken on board for our voyage along the coast of Florida.

On the 29th of August, we set out from Port Royal, as did also Pont Grave and Des Antons, who were bound for Cape Breton and Canseau, to seize the vessels which were engaging in the fur-trade, as I have before stated.

After getting out to sea, we were obliged to put back on account of bad weather. But the large vessel kept on her course, and we soon lost sight of her.

ENDNOTES:

191. Pet.i.t Pa.s.sage, leading into St. Mary's Bay.

192. _La Baye Courante_, the bay at the mouth of Argyl or Abuptic River, sometimes called Lobster Bay.--_Vide Campbell's Yarmouth County_.

N.S., p. 13. The anchorage for the repair of the barque near this bay, two leagues from Cape Fourchu, was probably near Pinckney Point, or it may have been under the lee of one of the Tusquet Islands.

193. Lescarbot, who with De Poutrincourt was in this vessel, the "Jonas,"

gives a very elaborate account of their arrival and reception at Port Royal. It seems that, at Canseau, Poutrincourt, supposing that the colony at Port Royal, not receiving expected succors, had possibly already embarked for France, as was in fact the case, had despatched a small boat in charge of Ralleau to reconnoitre the coast, with the hope of meeting them, if they had already embarked. The "Jonas" pa.s.sed them un.o.bserved, perhaps while they were repairing their barque at Baye Courante. As Ralleau did not join the "Jonas" till after their arrival at Port Royal, Poutrincourt did not hear of the departure of the colony till his arrival. Champlain's dates do not agree with those of Lescarbot, and the latter is probably correct. According to Lescarbot, Poutrincourt arrived on the 27th, and Pont Grave with Champlain on the 31st of July. _Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, pp. 544, 547.

194. Lescarbot gives a graphic account of the accident which happened to their vessel in the harbor of Roch.e.l.le, delaying them more than a month: and the bad weather and the bad seamans.h.i.+p of Captain Foulques, who commanded the "Jonas," which kept them at sea more than two months and a half.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, Paris. 1612, p. 523, _et seq._

195. Before leaving France, Poutrincourt had received instructions from the patentee, De Monts to seek for a good harbor and more genial climate for the colony farther south than Mallebarre, as he was not satisfied either with St. Croix or Port Royal for a permanent abode.--_Vide Lescarbot's His. Nou. France_, Paris, 1612, p. 552.

196. By reference to Champlain's drawing of Port Royal, it will be seen that the place of this agricultural experiment was on the southern side of Annapolis River, near the mouth of Alien River, and on the identical soil where the village of Annapolis now stands.

197. It appears that this fur-trader was one Boyer, of Rouen, who had been delivered from prison at Roch.e.l.le by Poutrincourt's lenity, where he had been incarcerated probably for the same offence. They did not succeed in capturing him at Canseau.--_Vide His. Nou. France_, par Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, p. 553.

CHAPTER XIII.

SIEUR DE POUTRINCOURT SETS OUT FROM PORT ROYAL TO MAKE DISCOVERIES.--ALL THAT WAS SEEN, AND WHAT TOOK PLACE AS FAR AS MALLEBARRE.

On the 5th of September, we set out again from Port Royal.

On the 7th, we reached the mouth of the river St. Croix, where we found a large number of savages, among others Secondon and Messamouet. We came near being lost there on a rocky islet, on account of Champdore's usual obstinacy.

The next day we proceeded in a shallop to the Island of St. Croix, where Sieur de Monts had wintered, to see if we could find any spikes of wheat and other seeds which we had planted there. We found some wheat which had fallen on the ground, and come up as finely as one could wish; also a large number of garden vegetables, which also had come up fair and large. It gave us great satisfaction to see that the soil there was good and fertile.

After visiting the island, we returned to our barque, which was one of eighteen tons, on the way catching a large number of mackerel, which are abundant there at this season. It was decided to continue the voyage along the coast, which was not a very well-considered conclusion, since we lost much time in pa.s.sing over again the discoveries made by Sieur de Monts as far as the harbor of Mallebarre. It would have been much better, in my opinion, to cross from where we were directly to Mallebarre, the route being already known, and then use our time in exploring as far as the fortieth degree, or still farther south, revisiting, upon our homeward voyage, the entire coast at pleasure.

After this decision, we took with us Secondon and Messamouet, who went as far as Chouacoet in a shallop, where they wished to make an alliance with the people of the country, by offering them some presents.

On the 12th of September, we set out from the river St. Croix.

On the 21st, we arrived at Chouacoet, where we saw Onemechin, chief of the river, and Marchin, who had harvested their corn. We saw at the Island of Bacchus [198] some grapes which were ripe and very good, and some others not yet ripe, as fine as those in France; and I am sure that, if they were cultivated, they would produce good wine.

In this place. Sieur de Poutrincourt secured a prisoner that Onemechin had, to whom Messamouet [199] made presents of kettles, hatchets, knives, and other things. Onemechin reciprocated the same with Indian corn, squashes, and Brazilian beans; which was not very satisfactory to Messamouet, who went away very ill-disposed towards them for not properly recognizing his presents, and with the intention of making war upon them in a short time.

For these nations give only in exchange for something in return, except to those who have done them a special service, as by a.s.sisting them in their wars.

Continuing our course, we proceeded to the Island Cape, [200] where we encountered rather bad weather and fogs, and saw little prospect of being able to spend the night under shelter, since the locality was not favorable for this. While we were thus in perplexity, it occurred to me that, while coasting along with Sieur de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of a league from here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we did not enter, because, when we pa.s.sed it, the wind was favorable for continuing on our course. This place we had already pa.s.sed, which led me to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for a point in sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to me favorable for pa.s.sing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the mouth, and went in the next day. [201]

Sieur de Poutrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. We saw some very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, [202] pumpkins, squashes, and very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having a taste similar to that of chards. [203] They made us presents of some of these, in exchange for little trifles which we gave them. They had already finished their harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this very pleasant place; and there are here a large number [204] of very fine walnut-trees, [205] cypresses, sa.s.safras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief of this place is named Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a neighbor of his, named Cohouepech, whom we entertained sumptuously. Onemechin, chief of Chouacoet, came also to see us, to whom we gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long time, but made a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and could not adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so wounded himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before touching him.

Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet and hands, shook his head and breathed upon him, when he came to himself. Our surgeon dressed his wounds, when he went off in good spirits.

CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.

LE BEAU PORT. [Note: _Le Beau Port_ is Gloucester.]

_The figures indicate fathoms of water_.

_A_. Place where our barque was.

_B_. Meadows.

_C_. Small island. [Note: Ten-Pound Island. It is forty rods long and thirty feet high. On it is a U. S. Light, fifty feet above the sea-level.]

_D_. Rocky cape.

_E_. Place where we had our shallop calked. [Note: This peninsula is now called Rocky Neck. Its southern part and the causeway which connects it with the main land are now thickly settled.]

_F_. Little rocky islet, very high on the coast. [Note: This is Salt Island.]

_G_. Cabins of the savages and where they till the soil.

_H_. Little river where there are meadows. [Note: This is the small stream that flows into Fresh-Water Cove.]

_I_. Brook.

_L_. Tongue of land covered with trees, including a large number of sa.s.safras, walnut-trees, and vines. [Note: This is now called Eastern Point, is three quarters of a mile long, and about half a mile in its greatest width. At its southern extremity is a U. S. Light, sixty feet above the sea-level. The scattering rocks figured by Champlain on its western sh.o.r.e are now known as Black Bess.]

_M_. Arm of the sea on the other side of the Island Cape. [Note: Squam River, flowing into Annisquam Harbor.]

_N_. Little River.

_O_. Little brook coming from the meadows.

_P_. Another little brook where we did our was.h.i.+ng.

_Q_. Troop of savages coming to surprise us. [Note: They were creeping along the eastern bank of Smith's Cove.]