In the Arctic Seas Part 19

{DR. WALKER'S RETURN.}

On the 25th Dr. Walker and his party returned, not having been able to find the depot. They found a barrel of flour upon the beach a few miles south of Brentford Bay; it appeared to have lain there for years, just inside a s.h.i.+ngle projection, which kept off the ice pressure, so that it had not been forced up high upon the beach; the ice which bore it there--probably from Port Leopold--had disappeared, and the cask was frozen into the s.h.i.+ngle. The heading has been brought on board, but the "scribing" upon it is very indistinct, and unintelligible to us. The flour is of the ordinary description used in the navy, and known as "seconds;" most of it was good, and a plain pudding made of it for our mess could not be distinguished from fresh flour. A specimen has been preserved with the view of identifying it with the Fury Beach or Port Leopold stores of flour. With the exception of a solitary bear, the party saw no living creatures. The sh.o.r.e along which they travelled was a very low s.h.i.+ngly limestone.

{RETURN OF CAPTAIN YOUNG.}

{SNOW BLINDNESS.}

Last evening I was delighted to see Young and his two dog-sledges heave in sight; he brought about 8 cwt. of sugar from Fury Beach, but not without much difficulty, owing to the roughness of the pack in Creswell Bay, and also to the breaking down of one of his sledges; to avoid this pack he found it necessary to travel nearly all round Creswell Bay. Cape Garry he describes as a gradually curved extent of flat land, and not the decided cape it appears to be upon the chart; two reindeer were seen near it, and during the journey four bears; no other animals were met with. His labors had been very severe; one sledge broke down and all the sugar had to be piled upon the other: the consequence was that the sledge was so heavily loaded that it would only run freely after the dogs on smooth ice; and directly any hummocks were encountered, the dogs, with their usual instinct, not to drag a sledge unless it does run freely, would lie down, and oblige Captain Young and his two men to unload and carry the packages, over the obstacle, upon their own backs.

After this, snow-blindness came on; Young and one of his men became blind as kittens; and the third man had to load, lead, and unload them, when these portages occurred. Young's Esquimaux dog-driver, Samuel, was quite blind when the party reached the s.h.i.+p. Two dogs, not choosing to allow themselves to be caught and put in harness, had been still left behind at the last encampment.

There still remains at Fury Beach an immense stack of preserved vegetables and soups; the party supped off them and found them good.

Young brought me back two specimen tins of "carrots plain" and "carrots and gravy." All small casks and packages were covered with snow; of the large ones which appeared through it, he saw thirty-four casks of flour, five of split peas, five of tobacco, and four of sugar. Only a very few tons of coals remained. There were two boats, a short four-oared gig and a large cutter; the former required nothing but caulking to make her serviceable, but the latter had a large portion of one bow and side cut out, as if for making, or repairing flat sledges. No record was found.

We have now enough sugar to last us for seven or eight months, but by the survey of provisions which has just been completed, we find a deficiency of many other articles, including three casks of salt beef.

Fortunately this is of no consequence as we have abundance of both salt and preserved meat, but it shows the alarming extent to which a negligent steward may mislead one. This unfortunate man has now got scurvy; want of exercise and fresh air is the apparent cause, combined with irregular living; the spirits have hitherto been in his charge.

{PREPARATION OF SLEDGE-PARTIES.}

The bustle of preparation for the extended searching journeys has been exciting. Hobson's party and my own are now all prepared, and Young having returned, we propose setting out on the 2d April--G.o.d willing.

Young's new sledge will be ready, and he will also start a few days after us. All our winter defences of snow, our porches, our deck-layer, and our external embankment, have been removed. Dr. Walker, of necessity, remains in charge of the s.h.i.+p, with two stewards, a cook, a carpenter, and a stoker. My party, as well as Hobson's, will be provisioned, including the depots, for an absence of about eighty-four days; but not being able to afford auxiliary or supporting sledge-parties, much time will be occupied in transporting our depots further out, in order that we may start with as much as we can possibly carry, from the Magnetic Pole, besides leaving there a depot for our return.

The declinometer was taken on board two days ago; hourly observations have been made with it for more than five months: we can no longer spare any one for this interesting duty.

_24th June._--One thing is certain, the wild sort of tent-life we lead in Arctic exploration quite unfits one for such tame work as writing up a journal; my present attempt will ill.u.s.trate the fact,--yet with such ample materials what a deeply interesting volume might be written! Since I last opened this familiar old diary--the repository alike of dry facts and the most trivial notes--winter has pa.s.sed away, summer is far advanced, and the glorious sun is again returning southward. We too have endeavored to move on with the times and seasons.

As for myself--I have visited Montreal Island, completed the exploration and circuit of King William's Island, pa.s.sing on foot through the only feasible North-West Pa.s.sage; but all this is as nothing to the interest attached to the _Franklin records_ picked up by Hobson, and now safe in my possession! We now know the fate of the 'Erebus' and 'Terror.' The sole object of our voyage has at length been completed, and we anxiously await the time when escape from these bleak regions will become practicable.

{APR., 1859.}

{THE START.}

The morning of April 2nd was inauspicious, but as the day advanced the weather improved, so that Hobson and I were able to set out upon our journeys; we each had a sledge drawn by four men, besides a dog-sledge, and dog-driver. Mr. Petersen having volunteered his services to drive my dogs,--an offer too valuable to be declined--managed my dog-sledge throughout. Our five starveling puppies were harnessed, for the first time in their lives, to a small sledge which I drove myself, intending to sell them to the Esquimaux, if I could get them to drag their own supply of provisions so far. The procession looked imposing--it certainly was deeply interesting; there were five sledges, twelve men, and seventeen dogs, the latter of all sizes and shapes. The s.h.i.+p hoisted the Royal Harwich Yacht flag, and our sledges displayed their gay silk banners; mine was a very beautiful one, given me by Lady Franklin; it bears her name in white letters upon a red ground, and is margined with white embroidery; it was worked by the sisters of Captain Collinson.

{EQUIPMENT OF SLEDGE-PARTIES.}

The equipment of my sledge-party and the weights were as follows: those of Hobson and Young were almost precisely similar.

lbs. weight.

Two sledges and fitting complete 110

Tent, waterproof blanket, floor-cloth, two sleeping-robes, and six blanket sleeping-bags 90

Cooking-utensils, shovel, saw, snow-knife, and sundry small articles 40

Sledge-gun and ammunition 20

Magnetic and astronomical instruments 60

Six knapsacks, containing spare clothing 60

Various tins and bags, in which provision and fuel were stored 50

Articles for barter 40

Provisions 930 ---- Total 1400

The load for each man to drag was fixed at 200 lbs., and for each dog 100 lbs. Our provisions consisted mainly of pemmican, biscuit, and tea, with a small addition of boiled pork, rum, and some tobacco.

{SLOW PROGRESS.}

The men being untrained to the work, and sledges heavily laden, our march was fatiguing and slow. We encamped that night upon the long lake.

On the second day we reached the western sea, and upon the third, aided by our sledge sails, we advanced some miles beyond Arcedeckne Island.

The various depots carried out with so much difficulty and danger in the autumn, were now gathered up as we advanced, until at length we were so loaded as to be compelled to proceed with one-half at a time, going three times over the same ground. For six days this tedious mode of progression was persevered in, by which time (15th April) we reached the low limestone sh.o.r.e in lat.i.tude 71 7' N., and which continues thence in almost a straight line southward for 60 or 70 miles. We now commenced laying down provisions for our consumption upon the return journey; and the snow being unusually level, we were able to advance with the whole of our remaining provisions, amounting to nearly sixty days' allowance.

Hitherto the temperature continued low, often nearly 30 below zero, and at times with cutting north winds, bright sun, and intensely strong snow glare. Although we wore colored spectacles, yet almost all suffered great inconvenience and considerable pain from inflamed eyes. Our faces were blistered, lips and hands cracked,--never were men more disfigured by the combined effects of bright sun and bitterly cold winds; fortunately no serious frost-bites occurred, but frost-bitten faces and fingers were universal.

{MEET OLD ACQUAINTANCE.}

On the 20th April, in lat.i.tude 70-1/2 N., we met two families of natives, comprising twelve individuals; their snow-huts were upon the ice three-quarters of a mile off sh.o.r.e, and their occupation was seal-hunting. They were the same people with whom I had communicated at Cape Victoria in February.

Old Oo-na-lee laid his hands on Petersen's shoulders to measure their width, and said, "He is fatter now:" true enough, the February temperature and sharp marching had caused us both at that time to shrink considerably.

{SNOW-HUTS OF NATIVES.}

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Their snow-huts were built in the above form, the common entrance and both pa.s.sages being just sufficiently high to get in without having to crawl upon our hands and knees. A slab of ice in the roof admitted sufficient light. A snow bank or bench two feet high, and occupying half the area of each hut, was covered with reindeer skins, and formed the family place of repose. An angular snow bench served as the kitchen table, and immediately beside it sat the lady of the establishment attending the stone lamp which stood thereon, and the stone-cooking vessel suspended over it. The lamp was a shallow open vessel, the fuel seal oil, and the wick dried moss. Her "tinder-box" was a little seal-skin bag of soft dry moss, and with a lump of iron pyrites and a broken file she struck fire upon it. I purchased the file because it was marked with the Government broad arrow.

We saw two large snow shovels made of mahogany board, some long spear handles, a bow of English wood, two preserved-meat tins, and a deal case which might have once contained a large telescope or a barometer; it measured 3 feet 1 inch in length by 9 inches wide and 3-1/2 inches deep; there was no lid, but part of the bra.s.s hinges remained.

I also purchased a knife which had some indistinct markings upon it, such as s.h.i.+p's cutla.s.ses or swords usually have; the man told us it had been picked up on the sh.o.r.e near where a s.h.i.+p lay stranded; that it was then about the length of his arm, but his countryman who picked it up broke it into lengths to make knives.

{INTELLIGENCE OF SECOND s.h.i.+P.}

After much anxious inquiry we learned that two s.h.i.+ps had been seen by the natives of King William's Island; one of them was seen to sink in deep water, and nothing was obtained from her, a circ.u.mstance at which they expressed much regret; but the other was forced on sh.o.r.e by the ice, where they suppose she still remains, but is much broken. From this s.h.i.+p they have obtained most of their wood, &c.; and Oot-loo-lik is the name of the place where she grounded.

Formerly many natives lived there, now very few remain. All the natives have obtained plenty of the wood.

The most of this information was given us by the young man who sold the knife. Old Oo-na-lee, who drew the rough chart for me in March, to show where the s.h.i.+p sank, now answered our questions respecting the one forced on sh.o.r.e; not a syllable about her did he mention on the former occasion, although we asked whether they knew of only one s.h.i.+p? I think he would willingly have kept us in ignorance of the wreck being upon their coasts, and that the young man unwittingly made it known to us.

The latter also told us that the body of a man was found on board the s.h.i.+p; that he must have been a very large man, and had long teeth; this is all he recollected having been told, for he was quite a child at the time.