The Life and Adventures of Kit Carson, the Nestor of the Rocky Mountains, from Facts Narrated by Himself - BestLightNovel.com
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In obeying this command, the soldiers had not more than wheeled about, when down came the foe in full pursuit, making the very air ring with their war-whoops and unearthly shouts. So bold did these Indians become from the victory which they had achieved, that they charged so hotly and so near the soldiers that the latter were compelled, in self-defence, to turn and, in a hand to hand contest, beat them off.
After resisting a succession of these a.s.saults, the command finally gained the main road. Upon counting his men, Lieutenant Davidson found that twenty of them were killed and left behind on the battle-field; and that, out of the surviving forty, hardly one man had escaped being wounded, thereby showing, considering the numbers engaged, how bravely the fight had been maintained, and how gallantly each one had endeavored to turn the tide of affairs to a more favorable result.
The course pursued by, and even the bravery of, Lieutenant Davidson in this affair, has been unjustly a.s.sailed and questioned by some persons who have probably been misinformed on the subject. Judging from the evidence of his companions, there was not a more courageous man on that ground than the officer in command. Kit Carson refutes the accusation made against his friend in the following strain: "I am intimately acquainted with Lieutenant Davidson and have been in engagements with him where he has taken a prominent part and can testify that he is as brave and discreet as it is possible for a man to be. Nearly every person engaged in and who survived that day's b.l.o.o.d.y battle has since told me that his commanding officer never once sought shelter, but stood manfully exposed to the aim of the Indians, encouraging his men and apparently entirely unmindful of his own life. It was, however, in the retreat they say that he acted the most gallantly, for, when everything was going badly with the soldiers, he was as cool and collected as if under the guns of his fort. The only anxiety he exhibited was for the safety of his remaining men."
The Indians must have lost many of their warriors in this fight, but the exact number has never been ascertained. The news of the defeat was brought by the retreating soldiers themselves to the town of Taos, where on hearing it, for short time, consternation seized hold of its inhabitants; but slowly they calmed down, and a party, consisting of Americans and Mexicans with wagons, was sent out to bring in the mutilated remains of the fallen. On reaching the field, the dead were found, but they were all mutilated and stripped of all their clothing.
The Indians had left nothing which they thought might be turned to the least account. One poor fellow had escaped the rigid scrutiny of the red men by crawling to an obscure place where he had died from his wounds. On his body was found a belt that contained three hundred dollars in gold--his hard earnings that he had been saving up against a day of need. Had the savages known of this money, they would not have left it, for they are quite familiar with the use, if not with the real value of gold. A few days later, the Apaches made their appearance in a small Mexican settlement which was far distant from the scene of their success. They were dressed in portions of the uniforms and accoutrements taken from the dead dragoons; and, as they sauntered about the town, they would salute each other in military style, and otherwise mock the actions of the military men. Calling for a piece of paper, one fellow, with a bit of charcoal, pretended to write on it an order. No doubt, by so doing, he thought he was imitating something of the kind which he had seen done at a military post. After making a few scratches on the paper, he handed it to one of his red companions, and, with a smile on his rough countenance, addressed to him some directions in reference to the doc.u.ment.
Although the Mexicans were much amused at these burlesque actions of the Indians, yet they did not dare to show their mirth until the latter had departed and left them in possession of their lives.
The day following the one on which the fight had taken place, Kit Carson returned from Santa Fe and pa.s.sed near to the spot where the soldiers had been so roughly handled; but he did not see a visage of an Apache. They had, by that time, traveled to the west side of the Rio del Norte. Indeed, he antic.i.p.ated no danger to himself, as he was well aware, that the safest time to travel through any section of an Indian country, is just after the savages have been guilty of some highhanded act. They are then, instinctively, as some may say, but, as the fact appears to us, by use of their reasoning powers, well aware that active measures will be set on foot to repay them for their rascality.
The trail which, on this occasion, Kit Carson traveled over in coming from Santa Fe, is one of the most interesting routes, in safe times, that the mere traveler can select. It comprises some of the most beautiful scenery in New Mexico. The length of the trail is about seventy-five miles, and so many windings and turns does it make through mountains, forests and gorges, that every hundred yards furnishes a suitable place for an Indian ambuscade. The largest part of the country which lies between Taos and Santa Fe, is mountainous; therefore, this trail is one series of ascents and descents. The greatest pitch is near the scene of the fight in which Lieutenant Davidson and his command were engaged, where the path, in order to avoid an almost perpendicular declivity, makes a zig zag course. To accomplish the ascent of this mountain on a good riding animal, it takes, at least, two hours; therefore, the height of the mountain can be easily imagined by those accustomed to mountain climbing. On reaching some of these immense eminences, the scenery is princ.i.p.ally formed by the broken country, studded here and there with mountains, which appear as if in miniature, as well as real. Between are valleys, rivers, creeks, canons, etc., which render the views truly grand.
There is sufficient woodland, plenty of pure air, and different species of game, in great abundance, playing about, and filling up the picture with life. To use the words of romance, this does not fail to make the scenery perfect. The trail runs through hamlets and villages, which come in at the proper distances and form great auxiliaries to the traveler, when fatigued by horseback riding; for, at most of these places, the traveler can find rest for the night, always provided that he be willing to submit to a mult.i.tude of inconveniences.
The most desirable place at which to stop, on this trail, is a town nearly midway between Taos and Santa Fe. It is called Rio Arriba. In this village, the traveler can obtain many comforts which are denied him even in the larger towns. At the present time it is a very difficult matter for loaded caravans to pa.s.s direct from Santa Fe to Taos; but the United States government has taken the matter in hand and has appropriated large sums of money for making a good road between the two places; therefore, it will not be a long time before the transit will be accomplished with ease and safety. Scattered over the country adjacent to this trail now under consideration, there are many hamlets and villages which are being greatly augmented by new settlers yearly. Many of these have been seldom, if ever, visited by white men, and the minute geography of this tract of country is still in the embryo. Perhaps a new El Dorado is there in store for mankind, and that some day its resources will receive an impetus and be developed by the sudden discovery of valuable mines therein. This is no chimerical illusion; it scarcely rests upon an uncertainty; for, the mineral wealth of New Mexico, we are firmly persuaded, is still in its infancy. To use trapper language, judging from "signs" which exist there in abundance, we shall not be surprised to hear, in time, that this territory has turned out to be a second California. Rumors of gold, and even specimens of the article itself, are frequent in many parts of the country; but the poverty of the inhabitants keeps them from searching as they ought in order to make the discovery. The Americans find a more profitable business in commerce and trade, therefore they but seldom indulge in speculations designed to develop the mineral wealth of the country; but nevertheless, they have faith that gold, in immense quant.i.ties, exists there, and believe that, in time, scientific men will disclose the fact and position. We have seen _quills_ full of gold dust which has been collected there, and we are well acquainted with men who have washed out from several streams in the northern part of the Territory, the value of two and a half dollars per diem; but, with the high prices of living, this rate of produce cannot be made to pay unless the work shall be carried on by the a.s.sistance of capital.
On this trail to Santa Fe, there are several small Pueblos which are inhabited by the descendants of the ancient Aztecs. These settlements, generally, are quite thrifty, and exhibit many external appearances of comfort. To prepare and cultivate the soil, it takes much labor in irrigating and bestowing other farming operations upon the land in order to bring crops to perfection. Hence these people, like the New Mexicans, can realize from their toil but little beyond their own subsistence. This trail, as it approaches Santa Fe, enters through groves of small pines which are many miles in extent. In such places the ground is sandy and the vegetation poor in the extreme. It has proved an exceedingly difficult problem, for more than one mind, to solve the reason why the capital of the Territory should have been located in such a barren section of the country. Perhaps it was because this was the most central spot that could be selected, although such a reason can hardly be offered in sober earnestness. The most charitable reasoning which we can offer for it, is because the Mexicans knew no better. It is true there are valuable silver mines near by; but this could only cause a town to be raised to suit the miners and not to form the attraction where the _elite_ of New Mexican society should for so many years congregate.
Santa Fe is located on a plateau of ground which is about seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. The town itself contains about five or six thousand inhabitants which includes all races. It is built of _adobes_, or sun-burnt brick, and occupies both sides of a small stream which is called the _Rio Chicito_ and which flows into the Rio Grande nearly twenty miles from the town. The site of Santa Fe is low when compared with the alt.i.tude of the surrounding country, being bounded on nearly all sides by lofty mountains. One of these mountains is quite famous. It is the loftiest of all in that section of country, and is capped during the greater part of the year with snow. As is invariably the case with the large majority of Mexican towns, there is but little regularity in the streets of Santa Fe; but yet, the plaza is easily reached by several avenues. Santa Fe forms the grand commercial emporium of the great interior continent of North America; and its trade diverges to every point of the compa.s.s. The extent of this trade can be realized when we a.s.sert the fact that with the State of Missouri alone it amounts annually to several millions of dollars. In the south it has overland communication even with the city of Mexico. If the tariff between the two countries could be arranged upon a more equitable footing than it now is, the Mexican trade would swell into an enormous sum. Every acquisition of a new territory in the far west and southwest aids in developing the commerce of Santa Fe; therefore, until steam shall cause a revolution in the course of trade, this town must necessarily increase greatly in importance.
The stores in the town are mostly owned, and the mercantile business chiefly carried on, by Americans. These American speculators are celebrated for the daring manner with which they launch out their money upon various enterprises. With them, the greater the risk when their chances appear that the gain will be large, the more eager they are in facing the hazard. They sometimes lose, but oftentimes realize large fortunes. The appearance of these stores is captivating to the fancy, and many of them would be ornaments to any of the larger cities or towns of the east. The most expensive articles of luxury and dress are to be found in them, and in these distant parts, such property commands a price which would startle and quite shake the nerves of a prince; but, when the people can obtain the money, they purchase everything which their fancy dictates. A Santa Fe senorita dashes in her rich silks which have cost hundreds of dollars with as much grace as does one of the Was.h.i.+ngton or Fifth Avenue belles, clothed in the same luxuriant style. In Santa Fe, we are sorry to say, it requires vice of the worst shade for women to support such a style of living; but the morals of the Mexicans are so loose in all cla.s.ses, that virtue is boldly parted with by both s.e.xes in a spirit which the triumphs of natural reason alone ought to prevent, and which no lover of humanity can admire or tolerate. Gambling, in this town, has long held its full sway, and many is the victim which this wretched wickedness has prematurely hurried into a vortex, from which there has been no recovery.
The palmy days of gambling, in San Francisco, have been rivaled in the little town of Santa Fe, and the boldness with which the Mexican player will part with his last dollar, shows the hardened state to which the man, and, what is perhaps worse, the woman, have been brought, by years of habitual playing for money. In olden times, the Mexicans used to travel hundreds of miles, and bring their money with them in order to squander it at their favorite game of _monte_. Not only this fact is true, but men will often sell themselves into the slavery of debt in order to satisfy their craving desire to gamble.
The town of Santa Fe is watered by azequias or small ca.n.a.ls, which are used in every section of the Territory, with which to irrigate the soil. Near the town, and on a hill adjoining, stands the ruins of Fort Marcy, which was used by the American Volunteers during the conquest of the country in the year 1846. This fort commands the town; and, for the purpose which governed its building it answered very well. There are several good boarding-houses in Santa Fe, and one hotel, which is well fitted up and well kept. It forms the rendezvous for the whole town. The commanding general of the military department which comprises the Territory of New Mexico, with his staff, makes this town his head-quarters. There is also a garrison of American soldiers stationed in the town. The governor of the territory, the judges, surveyor and all the government officials of any importance, make this place their home. The Territorial buildings, being the halls of legislation, and such other buildings as are necessary for the State and Territorial purposes, both finished and under process of erection, are located in Santa Fe. On one side of the plaza there stands a long, low building known as the Palace. No one, however, would be aware of the fact if not informed of it; for the building has more the appearance of having been intended for a rope-walk than for the a.s.semblage of _savants_ who were to discuss and arrange matters of state and public interest. Notwithstanding the small pretensions in the way of architecture which the Palace presents, nevertheless, within it, there have lived old Mexican governors who ruled their people with a rod of iron, and whose fiery impulses went forth as just and equitable law. These tyrants--for it was very seldom that the poor and ignorant New Mexicans were favored with a good, wise and just governor--governed on the principle of self aggrandizement. Being far separated from their home government, they took care to smother all evil reports, while the good, only, were allowed to circulate; and these, so far as the home government was concerned, solely by their authority, in order to have the desired effect to retain them in office. In this they were usually successful, as they generally retained their lucrative positions until cut off by death, or until they had ama.s.sed a fortune which made their tasks burdensome. Many of these men might have been envied by the richest among Americans, so far as wealth is considered. They were so envied by the wealthy men at the capital of the republic. These provinces of Mexico were the Indies where troublesome opponents were to be sent by government, to suck, like leeches, the public treasury, and thus obtain their fill to repletion. When the United States came into possession of the territory of New Mexico, affairs were somewhat tempered to the state of reason and justice; but, a people who had so long been kept down, could not at once appreciate the value of the changes; consequently, they have been slow in elevating their heads to the proper standard of men. The legislature of New Mexico, as it has been recognized under the const.i.tution of the United States, resembles other forms of territorial governments. This statement is true in theory, but not in practice; for it is impossible to collect an uneducated people, unused to self government, and allow them to steer their own bark as law-makers, without observing that they make many openings for serious mistakes to creep in, which are and should be severely criticised.
The pioneer laws, as they came from the first New Mexican legislature, were faulty in the extreme. They seemed to point out wickedness as a punishment for wickedness. If we desired to afford our readers a laugh, we should permit them to read many of these laws. The simple perusal of them would cause merriment equal to the most laughable comedy. Had it not been for the few white men, who, from time to time, have found their way into the legislature of New Mexico, the whole body would long since have lost themselves in the depth of learning which their untutored minds had undertaken to engraft upon their statute books. The members of this body, for a long time, turned their attention more to the emoluments which naturally accrued from their position, than to endeavors to steady the helm of government for the good of their country. In order to save their pay, they studied economy, which caused them to make a beggarly appearance, and, in the eyes of the white men, they were often contemptibly mean. Greatly predominating in numbers, the Mexicans of course had no difficulty in ruling the country; and they naturally preferred their own countrymen in filling the law-making department of their government. The consequence was, that they thus obtained a crowd of legislators who could hardly read. By the aid of a few schools, an enlightened press, and the examples of a few worthy Americans, they are gradually mending their ways in this respect; and the time will come in a few years, when the legislature of New Mexico will compare favorably with its sister territories; but this, not until education has made her indelible mark upon the people.
The town of Santa Fe is provided with a Roman Catholic church, which, under the judicious management of the present bishop and clergy, is doing what it can to improve the condition of the Mexican population.
Other religious denominations have not yet been fully developed; although the attempt is being made to establish churches of the Protestant faith on a sure and permanent footing; but this, although we regard it as certain, will take time, for the majority of the people lean strongly to the Roman Catholic faith. It is a very singular fact that among a population of seventy thousand souls included in the limits of the Territory of New Mexico, there have been such feeble and vain attempts made by Protestant missionaries to bring the people to their mode of thinking. The task might have been impossible when the country was under the jurisdiction of old Mexico; but, since it has changed masters, this excuse does not hold good. The Mexicans, as a body, learn readily; they easily discern between right and wrong; and, as the field for Christian enterprise to work in is large enough for all sects, it is strange that the Protestant church is not found laboring in the good cause, side by side with its Roman Catholic friend. It is true, there are a few persons struggling on under the auspices of the Protestant church; but they are so few that they are seldom met in the great expanse of the country. Santa Fe has long been celebrated as having a depraved population; but, as honest and honorable men are now working with satisfactory success for a reformation, the day cannot be far distant when this town will redeem itself. It is true that, not many years back, Santa Fe was filled with gamblers and desperadoes of all grades; but, at the present time, law and order is beginning to predominate, and it is to be hoped that the next generation will see a better state of affairs. The vices which have characterized the inhabitants have not been confined, by any means, to the Mexicans; but rather they have been exemplified in those Americans with bad characters, who have, from time to time, crept in among the people. These men, in several instances, have set examples which the most debased Mexican would hesitate to follow.
The appearance of Santa Fe, from an outside view, is anything but striking. Its houses, like most Mexican buildings, are seldom higher than one story, and, with few exceptions, they are entirely wanting in beauty. They are built after what may be styled a Mexican mode of architecture, and consist of a series of rooms which encircle an open square or court, the access to which is through a large portal. These buildings are usually huddled together towards the centre or plaza, while, in the outskirts of the town, they are greatly scattered. The arrangement of the streets appears as if they were mere matters of accident rather than matters of system or intention. The town is ornamented by few, if any, trees, while the general appearance of the adjacent country, as has been seen, is barren. The markets of the town are but sparingly supplied with a variety, and those articles which are the most common, bring, comparatively speaking, good prices. Not many miles from Santa Fe there are famous silver mines, which for many years were worked almost entirely by hand. Within a recent date machinery has been introduced by some enterprising Americans, and the precious silver ore is being brought to light in large quant.i.ties.
In point of amus.e.m.e.nt the people still cling to the pleasures of the fandango; and, as this town is much in advance of any other in the Territory, the Santa Fe b.a.l.l.s are carried on, sometimes, on quite a grand scale. The majority of them are the places of resort for the free cla.s.ses of society. The more respectable people seldom attend them, and then only when they are certain that they will find the ceremonies conducted in the spirit which administers really to pleasure and not to excess. The distance from Santa Fe to the Missouri River is in the neighborhood of nine hundred miles. The road, for the first one hundred miles towards the Santa Fe terminus, is rough and hilly; but, after that, it strikes out on the open plains, and is as level as can possibly be for such an immense distance. It is over this beautiful road that we have several times described Kit Carson as he traveled to and from the United States, though, more frequently, as has been seen, he preferred routes of his own selection, which enabled him, with his small escorts, to elude the vigilant watch of hostile Indians. The rich merchandise which finds its market in New Mexico pa.s.ses over this road; and, during the summer months, the heavily-laden caravans are continually traversing it.
CHAPTER XVI.
A fresh Campaign set on foot--Col. Cook in Command--Kit Carson goes as Guide--The Apaches and Utahs leagued together--The Roughness of the Country and the Privations to which the Command was exposed--The Indians overhauled--A running Fight--The Advantages gained--The Chase resumed--The Apaches resort to their old Tricks--Col. Cook is obliged to return to Abiquiu--A Utah taken Prisoner through Mistake--Kit Carson goes to Taos and has a Conference with the Chiefs of the Utah Nation--Cook's second Scout--He is caught in a furious Snow-storm and obliged to return to Rio Colorado--Major Brooks and Reinforcements come to the Rescue--Major Brooks on the Lookout, but fails to find the Indians--Carleton's Expedition--Kit Carson goes with it as Guide--The Adventures met with--Kit Carson's Prophecy comes true--The Muache Band of Utahs summoned by Kit Carson to a Grand Council--Troubles brewing among these Indians--The Small Pox carries off their Head Men.
To retrieve the ground lost, and also, to show the Jiccarilla Apaches that their recent victory had tended only to stimulate the movements of the Americans to a display of greater activity and energy, after a brief s.p.a.ce of time, a large body of regular troops were made ready to take the field against them. The commander of this expedition was Col.
Cook of the 2d Regiment of United States dragoons. That officer chose for his princ.i.p.al guide Kit Carson, whose peace duties as Indian Agent had been abruptly arrested by the warlike att.i.tude of some of his Indians. It was necessary, also, that Kit Carson should be on the ground in case the red men were overtaken, in order to ascertain whether, or no, the Utahs were mixed up with the operations of the Apaches. A large branch of the former tribe were part and parcel of his agency, and the two nations were known to be on very friendly terms with each other; consequently, it was surmised that they might be secretly, and under disguise, acting together in the war.
Col. Cook employed, besides the troops of the line which were under his command, some forty men selected from among the Mexican and Pueblo Indians, whose duties were to act as spies and trailers.
These Pueblos were selected for spies on account of their being familiar with Indian habits and their mode of warfare. They were taken from among the best hunters which the Pueblo villages could furnish.
They presented themselves provided with their own horses, rifles, and, in most cases, with their own ammunition, and were supplied only with their rations of food. When it was practicable, they were allowed to kill game; and, being very expert at it, they seldom returned from a hunt open-handed. Their peaceful mode of life prevented them from engaging in any deep league with the hostile Indians; but yet, there is no doubt that when the different tribes were at war with the whites, the Pueblos harbored the warlike Indians and supplied them, in many instances, with such articles as they stood most in need of.
Their policy in thus acting might have been to retain the friends.h.i.+p of these Indians and thus prevent their committing any depredations on themselves. The Pueblos may have taken advantage of the state of affairs when war existed, and doubtless frequently did, under disguise of the enemy, become guilty of crimes which could easily have been proven against them. The Mexicans have often tried to criminate the Pueblos for thus acting; but they have proceeded with such bungling policy, that it has seldom happened that anything criminal has been definitely proven against them. If a part of them have thus acted, there is not the least doubt but that the majority are guiltless. They are, as a body, loyal to the government of the United States; but, not so much from love of the Americans as from being shrewd. They know it is for self interest to keep good friends with the strongest power.
On these war scouts they rendered valuable service, and in this light, have been long regarded with favor by the whites.
The command of these forty Mexicans and Pueblo Indians was conferred upon James H. Quinn, a well-known and prominent citizen of New Mexico.
This gentleman became intimately a.s.sociated with the Territory of New Mexico soon after that country was annexed to the United States. In politics, military life, farming and mercantile pursuits, he was most actively engaged, and by his talents and industry took a prominent position and became an influential member of society. He had some faults; (who has not?) but his unexpected death came so suddenly upon his friends that they could only think of him for the many good qualities both of his head and heart. Hence, his faults were most willingly pa.s.sed over in silence.
All things being in readiness, the command entered upon the pursuit of the Indians. They marched from Taos, ten miles north, to a stream called the Arroya Hondo. Thence, following the banks of this stream down through its deep and rocky canon, they came to the Rio del Norte.
On the first-named stream, there is a small and unattractive settlement, which bears the same name. Several years since, there was a large distillery in full operation at this place. This establishment was owned by an American, and was very extensive. The building was celebrated as being the place where several Americans were slaughtered by the Mexicans during the revolution, in which Governor Bent lost his life, heretofore spoken of. On the plain which is contiguous with the south bank of the Arroya Hondo, there are to be found the remains of a large Aztec town, which was, at some remote period, the largest settlement inhabited by that interesting people to be found in northern New Mexico. At the present day, can be seen the size and almost the number of houses which formed the town--which are very numerous. The building material, as here used by the Aztecs, was small cobble-stones which undoubtedly were mixed with mud and thus formed the structure. Pieces of pottery, flint arrow-points; stone pipe and rude tools have been, from time to time, found on the site of the town, going to prove that the people were not wandering in their habits, but that instead, they occupied their time in farming, raising cattle and mining. The wild Indians may have murdered the inhabitants, and then destroyed the town; or, civil war and pestilence might have caused it to become deserted, when, as a natural result, it fell to decay. The most plausible theory to entertain is the former, as every old Mexican town of the north contains relics which could not have been designed merely in case of an emergency. Not one of these towns in olden times was without a large well, which, in most instances, was bountifully supplied with water. In time of peace, these extensive reservoirs were covered over and concealed from view, and therefore, but few strangers could be made aware of their existence. On the breaking out of war, these wells were thrown open for public use, and, being located in the centre of the towns, the inhabitants escaped that danger in procuring water which necessarily would have surrounded them in case they had been obliged, as they are now, to bring it from the neighboring streams. As time rolled on, and danger was lessened, these wells were almost forgotten, until the timber which covered them rotted and allowed their fragments and the earth to cave in, when the object of the digging these reservoirs became apparent. It is an established fact in history, that the town of Taos once withstood a long and fearful siege, but finally escaped, as did its people, uninjured. The besieging party, in this instance, was composed of the Indians of the plains; they were present to the number of many thousand, and were at last compelled to depart, as is supposed, in consequence of their provisions giving out. Reasoning from a.n.a.logy, it is no more than proper to suppose, that if the early settlements of the Mexicans were thus annoyed, the case of the Aztecs must have been still harder, and that being overcome by numbers, they were necessitated to succ.u.mb; and hence, were swept, by the Indians of the plains, from the face of the earth, leaving but a dim outline of their ancient grandeur.
The party found the stream very much swollen by the melting of the snows in the mountains. When they arrived at its fording-place, notwithstanding a torrent rolled before them, the command was, of a necessity, given to cross. There was no shrinking. Without a single murmur, the entire command set themselves about the perilous task. The bed of the river at this place is rocky and shelving. At low water, these facts offer no great obstacles in crossing. The case is very different when the torrent has reached high-water mark--then, a single step will often plunge horse and rider into the angry waters beyond their depth. Kit Carson boldly took the lead, and before the infantry had all pa.s.sed, the horses of the dragoons had to be sent back to a.s.sist them. To facilitate this fording, Kit Carson crossed and recrossed the stream at least twenty times. No serious accident occurred, although three of the dragoons came near being swept down the current, which, at the time, was very swift and strong. Had they gone below the fording-place, they would most a.s.suredly have been drowned, as the river there takes a fearful leap through a cut in the rocks. Having safely gained the opposite sh.o.r.e, the men found that their labors had but just commenced. In front of them stood a precipice that was, at the least calculation, six hundred feet in height, of solid rock, and almost perpendicular. Up this ascent the command had to mount, by following a zigzag trail. With much trouble and toil, the summit of the height was reached, when they once more commenced their journey over a diversified country, made up of plains and ravines. No gra.s.s or water was found until the expedition arrived at a small Mexican town called Sirvilletta. Here an encampment was formed for one night, and here their animals were to have their last rations of corn and forage. The sale of these latter articles proved a windfall to, and made glad the hearts of the inhabitants of the settlement; for the money which they received, in exchange for their produce, was the largest sum they had ever possessed. Thus, in more ways than one, these campaigns in the mountains caused good results.
These settlements on the remote frontiers of the territory of New Mexico are composed of very poor people, who, for many years succeeding their first efforts on establis.h.i.+ng their small farms, find great difficulty in doing more than to feed themselves. Their distance from markets such as Taos affords, prevents them from transporting thither more than their small surplus of grain; but, as in this case, on thus finding many hungry horses and mules to feed, their corn-stalks and wheat-straw come into demand, and bring them in a remuneration in ready money, in sums which they have not even dreamed of before. The only difficulty in trading with such people is to fix a fair price on their produce; for they are so fearful of not receiving enough, that they often overshoot the mark, and charge so much as to prevent other expeditions of the same sort from visiting them. With the few dollars in their pockets thus gained from the party, these Mexicans for once felt themselves rich men.
Early on the subsequent day the whole force was again in motion, and continued an active march for two days over a rough country. At last Kit Carson struck the Indian trail. The course was instantly made to suit this trail, when the party marched on two days more at a rapid pace. On the second day's march, the Indians were overhauled. The band of Apaches had been jogging on slowly, and consequently, their animals were in good order. The case was far different with their pursuers; their horses were much used up by overwork and privations. Thus, when their strength was most needed, it was found wanting. The Indians espied the soldiers in time to make good their flight, but not quick enough to save the lives of all their warriors. Several of them were killed and many more were wounded. They also lost a few of their horses, and nearly all their camp equipage. The roughness of the section of the country where they were overtaken, a.s.sisted the savages in escaping, notwithstanding every effort was made by the Americans to prevent their leaving so easily. Kit Carson, when describing these events, says: "To Capt. Sykes, who commanded the infantry, is due the greatest amount of praise for the part he acted in our adventures.
When his men were almost broken down with sore feet, long and difficult marches, want of provisions, the coldness of the weather, and with their clothing nearly worn out, and when they were on the point of giving up with despair, they were prevented from so doing by witnessing the n.o.ble example set them by their captain. He showed them what a soldier's duty really was, and this so touched their pride that they hobbled along as if determined to follow him until death relieved them from their sufferings. Although this officer had a riding animal at his disposal, yet never for once did he mount him; but instead, he lent the horse to some deserving soldier who was on the point of succ.u.mbing to overwork. When the Indian village was discovered, he cheered his men from a limping walk into a sort of run, and das.h.i.+ng through a swollen mountain stream, that was nearly up to their arm-pits and full of floating ice, he was, with his company, the foremost in the attack."
Two soldiers of Captain Sykes's company[25] were wounded, and one of them afterwards died. The other man was severely injured, but eventually recovered. The Indians, on being routed, were pursued through a deep canon for about four miles. A few who had been previously wounded were overtaken and slain. Night now came on; therefore, the men had to give up the chase, and on returning to their own encampment they found their friends had located it on the same ground which the Indians had occupied when they were first discovered.
The next morning the surviving wounded man, with an escort, was sent back to the nearest military post, so that he could receive proper attention. The pursuit at an early hour was then resumed, by the soldiers' taking the fresh trail of the Indians. Away went both parties through valleys, canons, and over snow clad mountains, until, in the end, the Americans saw that it was impossible to overtake the red men, who began to break up into squads of two and three and scatter in every direction. During the latter days of the chase, the routes which the Indians traveled were the worst they could select; their object being, entirely to use up the animals of their pursuers, who were thus vigorously driving them from one haunt to another. Very often, at night, the soldiers would find themselves bivouacked but a short distance from the place which they had left on the previous morning; and this happened, when not once during the whole day, had they missed the trail or ceased travelling; but the fact was, that the enemy were so familiar with the country that they made these crooked trails with impunity. Finally, the Indians saw that in this trial of muscles and nerves they gained nothing, and could not thus shake off their pursuers, but that it was necessary for them to try other expedients; therefore, they separated, to meet again at some preconcerted rendezvous. On this occasion, as so often heretofore, the Apaches did not belie the character formed of them by some of our most experienced military men, and of which we have before spoken: viz., that they have no equals for endurance, and such a thing as overtaking them when once put to flight is almost out of the category of the white man's feats.
[Footnote 25: Company D, 2d Regiment U.S. Artillery.]
There being nothing more that could be accomplished by the pursuit, consequently, Col. Cook ordered his men to face about, and they having done so, he made a direct march to Abiquiu, a Mexican village that is located on the Rio Chamo, a tributary of the Rio del Norte. The design he had in going there was to recruit his men and animals. Their sufferings had been severe. Although performing constantly more than double duty, the entire command was put upon half allowance of food, and that little could not be properly cooked. For this reason, the trials and hards.h.i.+ps which they experienced were of no ordinary character.
The town of Abiquiu, where Colonel Cook arrived, is about sixty miles northwest from Santa Fe, and a traveler can make a journey through valleys from one town to the other. It stands next to Taos in point of magnitude and importance in the matter of towns.h.i.+ps in the north of New Mexico. The scenery about this settlement is very attractive, and, as it lies on the borders of the Utah Indian country, it is frequently visited by these Indians. The neighbors of the Utahs, the Navajoes, occasionally make their appearance in the town. The Mexicans of Abiquiu, from their continued intercourse with bands of the Utah Indians, are more or less linked in with them; and, in time of war, the Americans can place but little confidence in the inhabitants of Abiquiu on this account. The grazing and farming facilities of the country adjacent to this town are quite progressive, and were it not for the Indians, its resources would be much more rapidly developed than they now are.
Utah was originally part of the territory of Upper California. The United States came into possession of it by treaty with Mexico in 1848. The population is chiefly Mormon. The new territory, as set off by the United States in 1850, includes an area of one hundred and eighty-seven thousand, nine hundred and twenty-three square miles, or one hundred and twenty millions, two hundred and seventy thousand and seven hundred and twenty acres. Near the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada range there are several lakes which receive the waters of the eastern slope of these leviathan mountains. One of these lakes bears the name of Kit Carson, having been named Carson Lake by Colonel Fremont.
In one respect this country has characteristics seldom met with in any part of the globe. Large numbers of the lakes and rivers have no outlets. Such is the fact in regard to Carson Lake. The only means by which their waters are reduced is by evaporation. The Great Salt Lake of Utah, to the traveler is of great interest. It may well be called the Dead Sea of Utah.
As has been seen, Col. Cook and party were now halted at a Mexican village on the Rio Chama, a tributary of the Rio Grande or del Norte.
The party that had been sent back with the wounded man, while on their journey met and captured an Indian. Supposing him to be an Apache, they deprived him of his horse and arms and otherwise treated him as a prisoner. While they were en route, the Indian made his escape and joined his tribe. This captive they afterwards learned was a Utah, whose tribe had the external appearance of being friendly towards the whites, although there were existing good reasons for doubting their sincerity. Col. Cook, fearing that such treatment might offer the Utahs a plausible excuse for openly declaring war, determined to clear himself of censure by making such reparation as was in his power.
Accordingly, he dispatched Kit Carson to the head-quarters of his Agency, in order to settle matters. On reaching Taos, Kit Carson sent an expressman to the Utah village with the request that their chiefs would come and have a talk with him. They obeyed his summons, and when they were seated in Council with their "Father Kit," he explained to them how that the soldiers had taken prisoner their _brave_ through mistake and ignorance. He informed them, that his countrymen did not wish to do their tribe any injury, and he trusted that they would overlook the affair; advising them that the best way to show to the white men that their intentions were honest would be by not rendering aid to the Apaches. He said that he had not sent for them through fear, as their warriors were but a handful when compared to the soldiers of their "Great Father;" but the main object, always to be held in view in their deliberations, was to cultivate friends.h.i.+p, as the country was large enough for both parties to live in. The Indians replied that they were satisfied with the explanation made to them, and declared that their hearts were not in the least inimical towards the whites. On hearing this, Kit Carson restored to them the captured property, and also made to the chiefs themselves a few useful presents.
Col. Cook, after granting a sufficient rest to his men, and after obtaining supplies at Abiquiu, started out again to hunt the Jiccarillas. He was so fortunate soon after as to find a fresh trail, and in hot haste followed it for several days, when, unfortunately, he was caught in a furious snow-storm which obliterated the tracks of the Indians, besides otherwise greatly damaging his resources. The fair prospects of a successful termination to the expedition being so suddenly frustrated, the commander had no other alternative open to him but to return. This he did by going to the Rito Colorado, a small town that lay on his route. Here the command was joined by Major Brooks of the 3d Regiment of U.S. Infantry, who had marched to the relief of Col. Cook with reinforcements. As soon as the necessary preparations were gone through with, another scout was undertaken under charge of this last-named officer, while Col. Cook and his men retired from their active service.
Major Brooks, without much difficulty, struck upon a recent path made by the enemy, and on it, gave them chase. The Indians were making their way to the Utah country, and on arriving there, the plans of the major were completely balked, owing to the great numbers of fresh trails that he discovered in those parts. They were so numerous that they crossed and recrossed one another at all points, and were so similar that his best guides could not distinguish the one made by the Apaches from those belonging to the Utahs. The result was that this command, after being in the field for fifteen days, was compelled to return without accomplis.h.i.+ng anything.
These two nations, the Utahs and Apaches, have been so long intimate, that many of their habits and customs are the same, and very often it requires them to speak their respective languages, before they can be recognized; but, usually, the Utahs are cleaner and better dressed than their faithful allies, the Apaches, whom they use, in time of peace and war, as tools.
After allowing sufficient time for the Apaches to collect and reorganize so that they would be more accessible, a third expedition was made ready and placed under the command of Major Carlton of the First Regiment of United States dragoons. Major Carlton employed as his guide, Kit Carson.
This command, at first, traveled to the north one hundred miles, until it reached Fort Ma.s.sachusetts. Here it halted for one day until the final arrangement could be finished. Major Carlton then divided his party, sending one division, which consisted of his spy company, under Captain Quinn, to examine the country on the west side of the White Mountains, while he took it upon himself to inspect the territory on the east side of the same range.
Captain Quinn followed up the valley of San Luis. When he reached the Mosco Pa.s.s, he turned off through it, in order to get into the Wet Mountain Valley, where it had been previously agreed upon that he should meet with and report progress to his commanding officer.
The Mosco Pa.s.s is a narrow opening in the White Mountains, which latter is but another name for a branch of the Rocky Chain. This pa.s.s has been traversed by Col. St. Vrain, many years ago, with wagons; but, at the present time, such a feat would prove to be an impossibility, as the mountain streams have washed down large rocks and other obstacles, which now present difficulties which simply men and animals cannot overcome. The pa.s.s itself is but a few miles in length. It is but a deep cut through very lofty mountains. Its sides are rocky, craggy and very rough, defying, in many places, the most experienced climber to ascend them. It is a favorite route, which the Apaches delight to take when hotly pursued, as it offers them the saving of many miles of difficult and circuitous traveling, when they wish to reach the open prairies.
On reaching the place of rendezvous, Carlton, while in the Sangre de Christo Pa.s.s, by the aid of his guide Kit Carson, discovered a trail made by three of the enemy, and on following it up, it was found to join the main path on the Huerfano Creek. On the arrival of Quinn, who had discovered signs which indicated the direction the Indians were taking, a conference was called, when all the old guides and spies of the party agreed in believing they were on the right scent. The skill shown by men accustomed to the business of tracking Indians, either for friendly or warlike purposes, is oftentimes truly wonderful, and especially is it so to a person brought up in a civilized community, only familiar with the reports of such things. The age of the trail, the haunts the red men are bound to, their object in going there, the numbers on the trail, and the tribe, or tribes to which they belong, can, in the majority of cases, be told with the greatest accuracy. It is by philosophizing on minute things, which in ordinary life would be considered mere trifles, and hardly worth a consideration, that this knowledge is arrived at. Thus, it takes but a minimum amount of wisdom to realize that a spear of gra.s.s, when trodden upon, is usually crushed to the earth; but, few reflect that the attempt is made by nature to restore the blade to its naturally upright position, and in doing so, requires a certain period of time to accomplish the task.
This process, to the trailer, is an index by which he judges the age of the visit made by the Indians, to that section of country. The shape of the sole of the moccasin, or the carvings on arrows when they are found, which not unfrequently happens, and many other like things, are sure signs in guiding the experienced trailer to the particular party he is seeking.