Rambles in Dickens' Land Part 8

By the next turning (right) on the north side we come into WIMPOLE STREET; on the east of which, at the corner of the third block, stands The West End Residence-No. 43-aforetime occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Boffin; which became, later on, the property of Mr. John Harmon and his wife. It is described as "a corner house, not far from Cavendish Square." Near this house _Silas Wegg_-a.s.suming some knowledge of its affairs-kept his street-stall. He was accustomed to refer to it as "Our House," its (imaginary) inmates being Miss Elizabeth, Master George, Aunt Jane, and Uncle Parker.

Returning to Wigmore Street, we arrive by the next block at Welbeck Street, running transversely thereto. In this street was the London residence of _Lord George Gordon_, as referred to in the pages of "Barnaby Rudge." The house is No. 64, the second from Wigmore Street on the left side. It is within the recollection of the present landlord that the old balcony-from which Lord George was wont to harangue the public-was many years since superseded by the present continuous railing.

We now come south into the West-end artery of _Oxford Street_, crossing same to _Davies Street_, by which we may soon reach BROOK STREET, GROSVENOR SQUARE, running east and west. On the south-eastern angle of its intersection stands Claridge's Hotel. It will be remembered that on _Mr. Dorrit's_ return from the Continent, after the marriage of his daughter f.a.n.n.y, "the Courier had not approved of his staying at the house of a friend, and had preferred to take him to an hotel in Brook Street, Grosvenor Square." This was doubtless the establishment favoured by the Courier's preference on that occasion; and where Mr. Merdle paid a state visit to Mr. Dorrit at breakfast-time the next morning; taking him afterwards in his carriage to the City.

Readers of "Dombey and Son" may be reminded that the Feenix Town House was situated in this same BROOK STREET; but no clue is afforded of its exact whereabouts. It is described as an aristocratic mansion of a dull and gloomy sort; and was borrowed by the _Honourable Mrs. Skewton_ from a stately relative, on the occasion of her daughter's marriage. Here also, in aftertime, the final interview between _Florence_ and _Edith_ took place.

[Picture: The Drawing-Room, Devons.h.i.+re House]

Keeping on through _Davies Street_ across _Berkeley Square_, we come through _Berkeley Street_ to Piccadilly, in the close vicinity of Devons.h.i.+re House, a mansion of fas.h.i.+onable and political repute, belonging to the _Duke of Devons.h.i.+re_. Here, on the 27th of May 1851, in the great drawing-room and library, d.i.c.kens and his _confreres_ of "The Guild of Literature and Art" performed, for the first time, Sir Bulwer Lytton's comedy (written for the occasion) "Not so Bad as We Seem," in the presence of the Queen, Prince Albert and a brilliant audience. The Duke not only afforded the necessary accommodation, but (as Mr. Forster writes), in his princely way, discharged all attendant expenses. Many distinguished authors and artists a.s.sisted at this performance, including Douglas Jerrold, Maclise, and John Leech.

Near at hand, on the eastern corner of the next turning down Piccadilly (_Dover Street_), is HATCHETT'S HOTEL, adjoining The White Horse Cellars, once a well-known coaching establishment. On the opposite side of the way stood in days of yore the old "White Horse Cellars," of which Hazlitt writes:-

"The finest sight in the Metropolis is the setting out of the mail-coaches from Piccadilly. The horses paw the ground and are impatient to be gone, as if conscious of the precious burden they convey. There is a peculiar secrecy and despatch, significant and full of meaning, in all the proceedings concerning them. Even the outside pa.s.sengers have an erect and supercilious air, as if proof against the accidents of the journey; in fact, it seems indifferent whether they are to encounter the summer's heat or the winter's cold, since they are borne through the air on a winged chariot."

From this well-known Booking Office, _Mr. Pickwick_ and his friends-accompanied by the fierce _Dowler_ and his fascinating wife-started for Bath, one "muggy, damp, and drizzly morning, by the mail coach; on the door of which was displayed, in gilt letters of a goodly size, the magic name of 'Pickwick'; a circ.u.mstance which seems to have occasioned some confusion of ideas in the mind of the faithful Sam, as evidenced by his indignant inquiry-'An't n.o.body to be whopped for takin'

this here liberty?'"

Readers of "Bleak House" will remember this locality as the destination of the Reading Coach; so indicated by _Messrs. Kenge and Carboy_ in their first communication to _Esther Summerson_. Here she was met, one foggy November afternoon, on her arrival in London, by the susceptible _Mr.

Guppy_, and by him conducted to Old Square, Lincoln's Inn. The incident was afterwards feelingly referred to by that young gentleman, on the occasion of his offer of heart, hand, and income to Esther:-

"I think you must have seen that I was struck with those charms on the day when I waited at the Whytorseller. I think you must have remarked that I could not forbear a tribute to those charms when I put up the steps of the 'ackney coach."

For the full narrative, see "Bleak House," chapter 9.

The Rambler can now take an eastward course up PICCADILLY, and may casually observe, on the left, past Burlington House, THE ALBANY, where _Mr. Fledgby_ had chambers. The next turning on the same side is SACKVILLE STREET, in which it may be recollected that _Mr. and Mrs.

Lammles_ resided during the short term of their social prosperity.

Mention of these localities in such connection will be found in the pages of "Our Mutual Friend." Pa.s.sing onwards on the same side, we arrive at No. 28, St. James's Hall. It was at this well-known place of a.s.sembly that several of those popular Readings were given by Charles d.i.c.kens, which always commanded the attention and sympathetic interest of his audience. On these occasions he invariably adopted the extreme of fas.h.i.+onable evening attire, being dressed in irreproachable style, with, perhaps, more of s.h.i.+rt-front than waistcoat; and so "got up" as to present a staginess and juvenility of appearance, possibly somewhat out of keeping with his time of life. Some of his hearers may have desired a more natural and less conventional mode; but they knew that beneath the big s.h.i.+rt and fas.h.i.+onable coat, there throbbed the genial heart of the man they loved, as he read of the sorrows of "Little Emily," or stood with them in spirit at the bedside of "Paul Dombey." On the occasion of his final Reading, given here in March 1870, he tendered his last public farewell to his London audience in the following words:

"It would be worse than idle, it would be hypocritical and unfeeling, if I were to disguise that I close this episode of my life with feelings of very considerable pain. For some fifteen years, in this hall and many kindred places, I have had the honour of presenting my own cherished ideas before you for your recognition; and, in closely observing your reception of them, have enjoyed an amount of artistic delight and enjoyment, which perhaps it is given few men to know. In this task and every other, I have ever undertaken as a faithful servant of the public-always imbued with a sense of duty to them, and always striving to do his best-I have been uniformly cheered by the readiest response, the most generous sympathy and the most stimulating support. Nevertheless, I have thought it well, at the full flood-tide of your favour, to retire upon those older a.s.sociations between us, which date from much further back than these; and henceforth to devote myself exclusively to the art that first brought us together. Ladies and gentlemen, in but two short weeks from this time, I hope that you may enter, in your own homes, on a new series of Readings, at which my a.s.sistance will be indispensable; but from these garish lights I vanish now for ever, with one heartfelt, grateful, respectful, and affectionate farewell."

On the right-hand side of Piccadilly, adjacent to the _Prince's Hall and Inst.i.tute of Painters_, there may be noted, _en pa.s.sant_, the premises No. 193, now occupied by the Boys' Messenger Co. This, for many years, was the address of Messrs. Chapman and Hall, the publishers of the works of d.i.c.kens. Previous to 1850, the earlier books-"Pickwick" to "Martin Chuzzlewit" inclusive-together with the first issue of their cheaper edition, were published by this well-known house at 186 _Strand_, the site now occupied by the premises of W. H. Smith and Son. The firm have, for many years past, removed their offices to _No._ 11 _Henrietta Street_, _Covent Garden_.

Pa.s.sing on to _Piccadilly Circus_, and crossing northward from the same, we turn (left) into _Sherwood Street_, which leads, by a short walk, to _Brewer Street_, in the neighbourhood of GOLDEN SQUARE. Continuing by _Lower James Street_, opposite, we reach the square itself, in which was formerly situated the Office of Ralph Nickleby. Readers of d.i.c.kens will remember that it was a large house, with an attic storey, in which Ralph committed suicide. The house No. 6, on the east side, was probably the one a.s.signed by the author as the usurer's residence. It is now let off in various suites of offices, professional and otherwise. The neighbourhood has somewhat changed since the time when the "Adventures of Nicholas Nickleby" was first issued, and the following description, given by d.i.c.kens, became public property:-

"It is one of the squares that have been-a quarter of the town that has gone down in the world, and taken to letting lodgings. Many of its first and second floors are let, furnished, to single gentlemen, and it takes boarders besides. It is a great resort of foreigners.

The dark-complexioned men who wear large rings and heavy watch-guards, and bushy whiskers, and who congregate under the Opera Colonnade, and about the box-office in the season between four and five in the afternoon, when they give away the orders-all live in Golden Square, or within a street of it. Two or three violins and a wind instrument from the opera-band reside within its precincts."

We read in the same book of the whereabouts of _Mr. Kenwigs_ as being in this neighbourhood-

"A bygone, faded, tumble-down street, with two irregular rows of tall meagre houses, which seem to have stared each other out of countenance years ago; the very chimneys appear to have grown dismal and melancholy from having had nothing better to look at than the chimneys over the way."

There are many streets in the district of Soho, in this vicinity, which will in some respects correspond with the description given; but much alteration has taken place during the last sixty years. Recollecting that _Newman Noggs_ lodged in the upper part of the same house, it must have been conveniently near Golden Square. In Carnaby Street (immediately north of the Square) there may be remarked a white-fronted, old-fas.h.i.+oned house (No. 48), which, being in proximity to Ralph Nickleby's Office, may be a.s.signed as aforetime comprising the apartments of the Kenwigs Family.

At the corner of _Beak Street_ and _Upper James Street_ is still existent "The Crown Inn," well known to Newman Noggs; though, since his time, it must have undergone considerable alteration. In his first letter to Nicholas Nickleby, Newman writes:-

"If you ever want a shelter in London, ... they know where I live at the sign of the Crown, Golden Square. It is at the corner of Silver Street" [now Beak Street] "and James Street, with a bar door both ways."

In this neighbourhood, also, Martha's Lodgings were situated, in the days of David Copperfield, who says:-

"She laid her hand on my arm, and hurried me on to one of the sombre streets of which there are several in that part, where the houses were once fair dwellings, in the occupation of single families, but have, and had, long degenerated into poor lodgings let off in rooms."

Such a house may be found in _Marshall Street_, No. 53, close at hand.

But at this distance of time it is difficult to a.s.sign the exact locality intended by d.i.c.kens. We are all familiar with the welcome episode in David's history when Martha rescued _Little Emily_, bringing her to these lodgings, and _Mr. Peggotty's_ dream came true.-See chapter 50.

Proceeding half-way up _Marshall Street_, we turn (right) through _Broad Street_, to (left) _Poland Street_, by which we again attain the main thoroughfare of Oxford Street. Turning eastward, on the north side, we come at a short distance (by No. 90) to Newman Street, in which was situated _Mr. Turveydrop's Dancing Academy_, "established in a sufficiently dingy house, at the corner of an archway" (Newman Pa.s.sage), with Mr. Turveydrop's great room built out into a mews at the back. The house intended is No. 26, on the east side of the street. Here _Caddy Jellyby_ resided with her husband, _Prince Turveydrop_, in the upper rooms of the establishment, leaving the better part of the house at the disposal of Mr. Turveydrop, senior; that "perfect model" of parental and social "deportment." Returning to Oxford Street and pa.s.sing onwards on the south side, we shortly arrive at _Dean Street_, leading southward.

At a short distance, running east and west, is Carlisle Street, at the further end of which, to the right, is an old house (by name Carlisle House) which stands facing the observer. It is now occupied by _Messrs.

Edwards and Roberts_, dealers in antique furniture. Readers of "The Tale of Two Cities" will recollect the lodgings of Doctor Manette and daughter Lucie, as described in the 6th chapter (Book the Second) of the Tale, being situated in a quiet street-corner, not far from Soho Square:-

"A quainter corner than the corner where the Doctor lived was not to be found in London. There was no way through it, and the front windows of the Doctor's lodgings commanded a pleasant little vista of street that had a congenial air of retirement on it. There were few buildings then, north of the Oxford Road, and forest-trees flourished, and wild flowers grew, and the hawthorn blossomed, in the now vanished fields."

The garden behind the house, referred to in the above-mentioned book, has been converted to the uses of a warehouse, a gla.s.s roof having been long ago built over the same. A paved court now exists at the side for the convenience of foot-pa.s.sengers, giving egress at the end of Carlisle Street, so that the "wonderful echoes" which once resounded in this "curious corner" are now no longer to be heard.

It may be interesting to note that a thoroughfare leading from _No._ 119 _Charing Cross Road_ to _No._ 6 _Greek Street_, _Soho_, is now named _Manette Street_; in remembrance of the worthy Doctor, whose London residence in Carlisle Street, as indicated, was near at hand.

We may return to Oxford Street through Soho Square, conveniently terminating the ramble at Tottenham Court Road, just beyond. From this central point there is omnibus communication to all parts of London; and a commodious resting-place may be here recommended to those disposed for dinner, at THE HORSESHOE RESTAURANT; which stands in a prominent position near at hand, on the east side of the street.

RAMBLE V _Bank of England to Her Majesty's Theatre_

The Bank; Dombey and Son, Tom Pinch-George and Vulture Inn; Mr.

Pickwick's Hotel-"The Green Dragon," _alias_ "The Blue Boar," Leadenhall Market; Tony Weller's Headquarters-Newman's Court (_alias_ Freeman's Court), Cornhill; The Offices of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg-House of Sol Gills, Leadenhall Street; The Wooden Mids.h.i.+pman-St. Mary Axe; Pubsey and Co.-House of Sampson Bra.s.s in Bevis Marks-"The Red Lion;" Mr. d.i.c.k Swiveller's recommendation-Bull Inn, Aldgate; Starting-place of the Ipswich Coach-The Minories-Aldgate Pump; Mr. Toots's Excursions-Mincing Lane; Messrs. Chicksey, Veneering, and s...o...b..es-Boarding House of Mrs.

Todgers, King's Head Court-London Bridge; Meeting-place of Rose Maylie and Nancy-"The White Hart Inn"; its Pickwickian a.s.sociations-The Marshalsea Prison; The Dorrit Family-St. George's Church; Little Dorrit's Night Refuge and Marriage-Lant Street; d.i.c.kens and Bob Sawyer's Lodging-King's Bench Prison-Horsemonger Lane Gaol-Mr. Chivery's Shop-St.

George's Obelisk; "the long-legged young man"-The Surrey Theatre; f.a.n.n.y Dorrit and Uncle-Bethlehem Hospital; "Uncommercial Traveller"-Astley's Theatre; visit of the Nubbles Family-Millbank; Poor "Martha"-Church Street, Smith Square; the Dolls' Dressmaker-Julius Handford-Westminster Abbey-The Red Lion, Parliament Street; the "Genuine Stunning"-The Horse Guards' Clock-St. James's Park; Meeting between Martin and Mary-Her Majesty's Theatre.

Our starting-point is now the BANK OF ENGLAND, Dombey and Son's

"Magnificent neighbour; with its vaults of gold and silver, 'all among the dead men, underground.'"

_Tom Pinch_, diffident of requesting information in London, resolved that, in the event of finding himself near the Bank of England,

"He would step in, and ask a civil question or two, confiding in the perfect respectability of the concern."

Adopting the route _via Lombard Street_, we come, on the left (No. 56), to GEORGE YARD, traversing which, there will be found, at the corner of Castle Court (No. 3), the George and Vulture Inn, at which Mr. Pickwick resided when in London, subsequent to his removal from Goswell Street; and which has honourable mention in the history of the Pickwickians.

Through _Lombard Street_, and turning left into _Gracechurch Street_, we shortly arrive, on the right, at _Bull's Head Pa.s.sage_ (turning by the Branch Post Office, No. 82), in which, at No. 4, is the GREEN DRAGON TAVERN, in close proximity to Leadenhall Market. This is, in all probability, the house mentioned in "Pickwick" as "The Blue Boar,"

_Leadenhall Market_, a favourite house of call with the elder Weller, and the place where Sam indited his "Valentine" to _Mary_, the pretty housemaid, afterwards Mrs. Sam. But the neighbourhood of the Market has undergone considerable renovation since the old coaching-days, and it is difficult to fix the _locale_ of the tavern with certainty.

Proceeding onwards through _Gracechurch Street_, we come into the thoroughfare of CORNHILL; and at No. 73, on the opposite side, arrive at Newman's Court. It will be remembered that in "Pickwick" the offices of _Messrs. Dodson and Fogg_ (Mrs. Bardell's attorneys) are located in Freeman's Court, Cornhill. There is no such place in Cornhill; Freeman's Court being in Cheapside. It is evident, therefore, that d.i.c.kens, for reasons of his own, emulated the special contributor to the _Eatanswill Gazette_, and so "combined his information." Taking Cornhill to be the locality intended, we shall find Dodson and Fogg's Office at the furthest end of the Court, No. 4, still a.s.sociated with legal business, being in possession of Messrs. Witherby and Co., law stationers.

Pa.s.sing onwards in Cornhill, past Bishopsgate Street, we come into Leadenhall Street, and may be interested to note, at No. 157 (now an outfitting establishment), the original position of the HOUSE OF SOL GILLS, s.h.i.+ps' instrument maker, at whose door was displayed the figure of

"The Wooden Mids.h.i.+pman; eternally taking observations of the hackney coaches."

Here our eccentric friend _Captain Cuttle_ remained in charge during the absence of old Sol Gills and his nephew; here _Florence_, accompanied by the faithful Diogenes, found asylum; and here _Walter Gay_ returned after s.h.i.+pwreck, to make everybody happy and marry the gentle heroine of the story. (See "Dombey and Son" for information _in extenso._) Until recent years, these premises were in occupation of Messrs. Norie and Wilson, s.h.i.+ps' instrument makers and chart publishers. They have removed to the Minories, No. 156, where the quaint effigy of _the Wooden Mids.h.i.+pman_, with his c.o.c.ked hat and quadrant complete, may now be seen, as bright and brisk as in old days. "When found, make a note of."