The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 19

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil till golden. Add the okra and saute gently for about 5 minutes, stirring and turning over the pods. Barely cover with water (about 1 cups), add salt and pepper, and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Add the lemon juice, if using, towards the end and let the sauce reduce. (The lemon juice is usually added when the dish is to be eaten cold.) For the takleya takleya, heat the garlic and coriander in the remaining oil in a small pan, stirring, for a minute or two, until the garlic just begins to color. Stir this in with the okra and cook a few minutes more before serving hot.

Variation For bamia makli bamia makli, saute the okra in olive oil for 8 minutes, turning the pods over, then add 4 or 5 crushed garlic cloves and 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro, and cook a few moments more.

Green Beans in Tomato Sauce Serves 6 Use olive oil and add lemon juice if you want to eat this cold. Use olive oil and add lemon juice if you want to eat this cold.

1 onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 3 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 pound green snap beans, topped and tailed and cut into 2 or 3 pieces Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sugar Juice of lemon (optional) Fry the onion in oil till soft and golden. Add the garlic, and when the aroma rises, add the tomatoes and beans. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar, add water if necessary to cover the beans, and lemon juice if using, and simmer 15-20 minutes, or until the beans are tender and the sauce reduced a little.

Tbikhit Qra Pumpkin and Chickpeas Serves 6 Combinations of fresh and dry vegetables are called Combinations of fresh and dry vegetables are called tbikhas tbikhas in North Africa. All kinds of vegetables-peppers, carrots, turnips, cardoons, spinach-are cooked together with chickpeas and dried beans. This dish can be made hot and peppery with harissa, but it is very good without. in North Africa. All kinds of vegetables-peppers, carrots, turnips, cardoons, spinach-are cooked together with chickpeas and dried beans. This dish can be made hot and peppery with harissa, but it is very good without.

1-pound piece orange pumpkin 1 large onion, cut in half and sliced 4 tablespoons olive oil 4 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1-2 teaspoons sugar Salt and pepper teaspoon harissa (optional) (page 464) A 1-pound can chickpeas, drained 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional) Peel the pumpkin, remove any pips and fibrous bits, and cut the flesh into pieces.

Fry the onion in the oil till golden, stirring occasionally. Add tomatoes, sugar, salt, pepper, and harissa if using, and stir well. Add the chickpeas and pumpkin. Moisten with 4-5 tablespoons water and simmer, with the lid on, for about 20 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender, adding parsley towards the end. The pumpkin releases plenty of its own water, but if it becomes too dry, add a little more during the cooking. Serve hot.

Variation Add 1 red pepper, cut into ribbons, to fry with the onions.

Korrat Leeks Serves 6 Onions and leeks have been known in Egypt since ancient times. Romans regarded Egyptian leeks as the best. According to legend, the Emperor Nero was fond of them. This is an Egyptian way of preparing them. Serve cold as a salad or an appetizer, or hot as an accompaniment to meat or chicken. Onions and leeks have been known in Egypt since ancient times. Romans regarded Egyptian leeks as the best. According to legend, the Emperor Nero was fond of them. This is an Egyptian way of preparing them. Serve cold as a salad or an appetizer, or hot as an accompaniment to meat or chicken.

2 pounds leeks 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon sugar 4 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon SaltWash the leeks carefully to remove any soil nestling between the leaves. Trim the root ends and cut off the tough green part of the leaves. Cut the rest into 2-inch pieces.

Fry the garlic and sugar in hot oil for moments only, until the sugar becomes slightly caramelized. Add the leeks and turn them, over moderate heat, to color them lightly. Sprinkle with lemon juice, add salt, and barely cover with water. Stew gently over very low heat until the leeks are tender and the liquid is reduced.

Serve hot or cold.

Arnabeet bel Lamoun Cauliflower with Olive Oil and Lemon Serves

4.

1 cauliflower Salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic (optional) Juice of 1 lemon PepperWash and trim the cauliflower and cut it into florets. Boil in salted water until just tender, then drain.

Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a pan. Some like to soften a little crushed garlic in the oil. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper and turn the cauliflower in this over low heat. It will absorb the oil and lemon.

Some serve it with tarator bi tahina tarator bi tahina Arnabeet Makli Deep-Fried Cauliflower Fried cauliflower is very popular in the Arab world. There are several ways of doing it.

Wash the cauliflower and separate into florets. Briefly poach in salted water until slightly tender. Drain and allow to dry well. Then deep-fry in about 1 inch of vegetable or olive oil till golden, and drain on paper towels. Alternatively, dip in one of the batter mixtures given for fried eggplants on page 290 and deep-fry until golden, turning over once. Another way is to roll the florets in beaten egg, and then in flour or breadcrumbs. Deep-fry in very hot oil until crisp and golden. Drain on paper towels.

Serve hot or cold, with yogurt.

Egyptian Cauliflower Fritters in Tomato Sauce Wash, separate into florets, boil, dip in batter, and deep-fry a cauliflower, as directed in preceding recipe. Both the egg-and-flour and the batter methods are suitable.

Prepare a tomato sauce in a large saucepan. Fry 2 garlic cloves in about 2 tablespoons oil until golden. Add 3-4 tablespoons tomato paste diluted in 1 cup water, 3 tablespoons chopped parsley, and salt and black pepper to taste. Simmer for 10-15 minutes.

Drain the deep-fried florets, and drop them into the tomato sauce. Simmer for about 25 minutes, until the cauliflower is very soft and the sauce is much reduced.

Jazar bi Zeit Carrots in Oil Serves 4 A North African way of cooking carrots. A North African way of cooking carrots.

1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into -inch-thick slices Salt 2 cloves garlic, mashed or chopped fine 1 tablespoon dried mint 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilPut the carrots in a pan and barely cover with water. Add salt and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, or until tender. Uncover to let the liquid reduce.

Add garlic, mint, and olive oil, and cook a few minutes more.

Serve hot or warm.

Variation A Tunisian version calls for 1 tablespoon tomato paste in the cooking water.

Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil and Parsley Serves 6 This Tunisian way with potatoes is as good hot as it is cold. Sweet potatoes can be used in the same way. Although in the Arab world potatoes never had the importance they acquired in Europe, and they never replaced grain, they are treated in a most delicious way. You must try the variations belonging to various countries which follow. Serve hot or cold with grilled or roasted meats and chicken. Some can also be served cold as appetizers. This Tunisian way with potatoes is as good hot as it is cold. Sweet potatoes can be used in the same way. Although in the Arab world potatoes never had the importance they acquired in Europe, and they never replaced grain, they are treated in a most delicious way. You must try the variations belonging to various countries which follow. Serve hot or cold with grilled or roasted meats and chicken. Some can also be served cold as appetizers.

1 pounds mealy potatoes Salt and pepper 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Peel and boil the potatoes in salted water until soft. Drain, keeping about cup of the cooking water.

Mash the potatoes and beat in the olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste and enough of the cooking water to have a soft, slightly moist texture. Then stir in the parsley.

Variations Fold in 3 tablespoons capers, soaked in water then drained and squeezed, or 5 chopped scallions.

Fold in some chopped black or green olives-about 12.

Add - teaspoon turmeric to the cooking water, or teaspoon harissa (page 464) at the end. teaspoon turmeric to the cooking water, or teaspoon harissa (page 464) at the end.

Add teaspoon c.u.min, teaspoon paprika, 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, and the juice of lemon or the chopped peel of preserved lemon (page 459).

With sweet potatoes, add 1 teaspoon ground ginger to the cooking water, then pinches of powdered saffron, c.u.min, and chili when you mash the potatoes. Use chopped cilantro instead of parsley, and if you like add preserved lemon peel, chopped.

A spiced baked-potato puree comes from Algeria: Peel, boil, and mash 2 pounds of potatoes, then mix with 3 large eggs. Season with salt and pepper, 2 teaspoons c.u.min, 1 tablespoon paprika, and, if you like, teaspoon chili pepper, and stir in - cup chopped parsley or cilantro. Pour into a baking dish and bake at 400F for 25 minutes. cup chopped parsley or cilantro. Pour into a baking dish and bake at 400F for 25 minutes.

Batata Melousseh bi Sen.o.bar Mashed Potatoes with b.u.t.ter and Pine Nuts Serves 6-8 2 pounds mealy potatoes pounds mealy potatoes Salt 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter - cup milk Pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped 2 tablespoons oil 3 tablespoons pine nuts Peel the potatoes and boil in salted water till tender. Mash them, beat in b.u.t.ter and milk, and season with salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Fry the onion in oil till golden, add the pine nuts, and let them brown.

Serve the mashed potatoes hot, spread flat on a platter, with the onion and pine nuts on top.

Batata Harra Sauteed Potatoes with Garlic, Chilies, and Cilantro Serves 4 An Arab way. An Arab way.

1 pound waxy new potatoes Salt 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 or 4 cloves garlic, chopped 1 or 2 chilies, chopped, or a good pinch of chili flakes 3-4 tablespoons chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, then peel and cut into slices or quarters. In a skillet, heat the oil, add the garlic, chilies or chili flakes, and potatoes, and saute, turning the potatoes over and sprinkling on a little salt, until crisp and golden.

Add the cilantro or parsley and stir.

Variation For a spiced new-potatoes dish: Put 1 pound baby potatoes, unpeeled and washed, in a saucepan with 2-3 tablespoons olive oil and 5 whole peeled garlic cloves. Only just cover with water. Add salt and pepper, 1 teaspoon paprika, a pinch of dried red-pepper flakes or 1 or 2 small chili peppers, - teaspoon ground c.u.min, and - teaspoon coriander. Simmer gently until the potatoes are tender. Reduce the liquid over high heat at the end, and stir in 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley.

Baked Potatoes and Tomatoes Serves 6 You need waxy new potatoes for this. Large ones can be quartered, baby ones can be left whole or cut in half. I don't bother to peel the very small ones. Serve hot or cold. You need waxy new potatoes for this. Large ones can be quartered, baby ones can be left whole or cut in half. I don't bother to peel the very small ones. Serve hot or cold.

1 pound tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces 2 teaspoons sugar Salt - teaspoon ground chili pepper or flakes 8 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 pounds waxy new potatoes, peeled and quartered or cut in half cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Put the tomatoes in a baking dish. Sprinkle with sugar, salt, and chili pepper. Add the rest of the ingredients, mix well, and sprinkle in a little more salt. Bake in a preheated 375F oven for 50-60 minutes.

Variations There is a similar dish in Morocco called batata hzina batata hzina, which means "sad potatoes." Add teaspoon c.u.min and teaspoon ginger to the above. Sweet potatoes are treated in the same way.

For a Turkish dish for 6, fry 2 chopped onions in 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil till soft. Add 2 more tablespoons oil and mix with 1 pounds new potatoes, peeled, boiled, and quartered. Add 4-6 chopped garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon c.u.min, the peeled and chopped tomatoes, a handful of black olives, 3 sprigs oregano, and -1 teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes. Bake 45-60 minutes at 400F. teaspoon dried red-pepper flakes. Bake 45-60 minutes at 400F.

Spicy Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Raisins Serves 6 2 pounds sweet potatoes Salt 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Pepper teaspoon ginger 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons black or golden raisins, soaked in water for 15 minutes Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into pieces. Boil in salted water for about 15-20 minutes, until soft. Drain and mash with a fork. Add b.u.t.ter, salt and pepper, ginger, and cinnamon, and beat well. Then add the drained raisins. Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into pieces. Boil in salted water for about 15-20 minutes, until soft. Drain and mash with a fork. Add b.u.t.ter, salt and pepper, ginger, and cinnamon, and beat well. Then add the drained raisins.

Sweet Potatoes Moroccan Style Serves 6*I like the surprising blend of sweet potato with ginger and chili pepper. like the surprising blend of sweet potato with ginger and chili pepper.

2 onions, chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped teaspoon ginger 2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes Pinch of ground chili pepper (optional) Salt Fry the onions in the oil till soft. Add garlic, and when the aroma rises, add the tomatoes and ginger. Fry the onions in the oil till soft. Add garlic, and when the aroma rises, add the tomatoes and ginger.

Put in the sweet potatoes and add 1 cups water-or enough to half-cover the potatoes. Add chili pepper and salt. Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and the liquid has almost disappeared, turning the potatoes over.

Serve hot or cold.

Turnips with Dates Serves 2-4 Cooked vegetables are not highly considered in Iraq, where they usually only find a place in a pot with meat, but turnips are treated with special respect. One way of dealing with young turnips is to peel and boil them in salted water, then press them under a weight to squeeze out some of the water, and serve them with a dusting of sugar. A special flavor is obtained when a little date syrup, called Cooked vegetables are not highly considered in Iraq, where they usually only find a place in a pot with meat, but turnips are treated with special respect. One way of dealing with young turnips is to peel and boil them in salted water, then press them under a weight to squeeze out some of the water, and serve them with a dusting of sugar. A special flavor is obtained when a little date syrup, called dibbis dibbis (see page 43), is stirred into the cooking water. (see page 43), is stirred into the cooking water.

Lately, I have tried sauteing sliced turnips with fresh dates and found it very pleasant to serve as a side dish with meat or chicken.

You may use a moist variety of California dried dates.

1 pound young white turnips, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Salt and pepper 6 moist dried dates, pitted and cut into small pieces Boil the turnips in salted water until only just tender and drain.

Heat the b.u.t.ter in a skillet and saute the turnips until they begin to color. Season with salt and pepper, add the dates, and cook through, shaking the pan and stirring.

Tartoufa bel Banadoura Jerusalem Artichokes in Tomato Sauce Serves 6 A disadvantage of these root vegetables is that they provoke wind. But they do have a delicious flavor. Smoother, less k.n.o.bbly varieties available today are easier to peel. A disadvantage of these root vegetables is that they provoke wind. But they do have a delicious flavor. Smoother, less k.n.o.bbly varieties available today are easier to peel.

2 pounds Jerusalem artichokes 1 onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, halved 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt and pepper Juice of lemon (optional) Peel the Jerusalem artichokes.

Fry the onion and garlic in olive oil until soft and golden. Add the Jerusalem artichokes and roll them in the oil by shaking the pan. Add the tomatoes, the tomato paste, a little sugar, parsley, salt and pepper, and the lemon juice if using. Stir well, and add just enough water to cover. Simmer gently for hour, or until the Jerusalem artichokes are tender and the sauce is reduced. Add more water during cooking if necessary, and reduce it at the end.

Terbiyeli Kereviz Celeriac with Egg and Lemon Sauce Serves 4 This Turkish specialty, usually served hot, is also good cold. The only problem is the peeling, or, rather, the cutting away of the skin, which is covered in soil. This Turkish specialty, usually served hot, is also good cold. The only problem is the peeling, or, rather, the cutting away of the skin, which is covered in soil.

1 celeriac, weighing about 1 pound, peeled and cut into -inch cubes Juice of 1 lemon Salt 1 teaspoon sugar 2 egg yolks Put the celeriac in a pan and cover with water. Add the juice of lemon, some salt, and the sugar, and simmer, covered, for 20-30 minutes, until tender.

Just before serving, beat the egg yolks with the remaining lemon juice, and pour into the pan, beating vigorously. Do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. As soon as the sauce has thickened slightly, serve immediately.

Celeriac in Olive Oil Serves 4 We made this in Egypt. We made this in Egypt.

1 celeriac, weighing about 1 pound 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of lemon, or more to taste teaspoon turmeric (optional) Salt and pepper Pinch of sugar, or as much as 1 teaspoon Peel the celeriac and cut into -inch cubes. Saute gently in the olive oil until lightly colored. Add a little water, barely to cover, and stir in lemon juice, turmeric, salt, pepper, and sugar. Simmer about 25 minutes, until the celeriac is tender and the liquid is considerably reduced.

Eat hot or cold.

Roasted Mixed Vegetables Serves 6 This is one of my favorite ways of cooking vegetables for a dinner party. You can do most of it in advance and put them in the oven again This is one of my favorite ways of cooking vegetables for a dinner party. You can do most of it in advance and put them in the oven again /2-A /2-A hour before serving. hour before serving.

3 eggplants (about 1 pounds total) 4 red bell peppers 8 small-medium white or red onions 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper Put all the vegetables, whole and unpeeled, on a sheet of foil on a baking sheet in a preheated 400F oven. Roast for 1 hour, or until all the vegetables are soft-the eggplants should be very soft and the skin of the peppers blackened and blistered.

When cold enough to handle, peel the vegetables (for peeling peppers, see page 84). Press the eggplants very gently in a colander to remove some of their juices, and cut into large pieces. Cut each pepper into 4 strips. Cut the onions in half.

Put all the vegetables in a baking dish and sprinkle with oil, salt, and pepper. Mix gently and roast at 400F for a further hour, or until nicely browned.

Serve hot.

Turlu Winter Vegetables Pot Serves 6 Turlu Turlu is a Turkish dish of mixed seasonal vegetables cooked in olive oil. The winter is a Turkish dish of mixed seasonal vegetables cooked in olive oil. The winter turlu turlu consists of root vegetables and beans. consists of root vegetables and beans.

1 onion, cut in half and sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium waxy new potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 medium celeriac, peeled and cubed 1 large carrot, sc.r.a.ped and sliced 5 scallions, chopped 2-4 large cloves garlic, or more Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sugar A 1-pound can white haricot beans, drained 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley In a large pan, fry the onion in half the oil until golden. Add the other vegetables and the garlic, and barely cover with water. Add salt and pepper and the sugar and bring to the boil. Simmer until all the vegetables are well cooked and the liquid is reduced to a sauce. Add the beans and the remaining oil and cook a few minutes more.

Serve hot, garnished with chopped parsley.

Spicy Root Vegetables Serves 6-8 A Tunisian way of cooking winter vegetables. It can be eaten hot or cold. A Tunisian way of cooking winter vegetables. It can be eaten hot or cold.

1 celeriac 3 carrots 3 turnips 1 small sweet potato pound Jerusalem artichokes 5 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon turmeric 2 teaspoons caraway seeds Salt and pepper A good pinch of ground chili pepper, or to taste Juice of lemon Peel and dice all the vegetables and put them in a pan with the rest of the ingredients.

Half-cover with water and cook on low heat with the lid on for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are done, turning them over so that they are all in the water for some of the time. (They will also cook in the steam.) Remove the lid and reduce the liquid to a sauce.

Tbikha of Turnips with Spinach and Chickpeas Serves 6 A A tbikha tbikha is a Tunisian dish which mixes fresh vegetables with pulses such as chickpeas and dried fava beans. is a Tunisian dish which mixes fresh vegetables with pulses such as chickpeas and dried fava beans.

1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 teaspoon sugar 1 pound (about 5 small) turnips, peeled and quartered or cut in half Salt and pepper A -pound can cooked chickpeas or fava beans, drained 1 teaspoon harissa (page 464) (optional) 1 pound spinach, washed, with only heavy, tough stems removed In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the oil till golden. Add the garlic, and when the aroma rises, stir in the tomato paste and the sugar.

Put in the turnips and barely cover with water. Add salt and pepper, stir well, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the turnips are tender and the liquid is much reduced. Put on high heat if necessary to evaporate it.

Add the chickpeas or fava beans and stir in the harissa if using. Pack the spinach on top and put the lid on. When the leaves crumple to a soft ma.s.s, mix well and cook a few minutes more.

Durra Grilled Corn on the Cob Walking along the corniche corniche or waterfront in Alexandria, one is irresistibly lured by the smell of corn grilled over charcoal. Vendors sit behind little braziers filled with glowing coals, fanning the flames furiously, or letting the sea breeze do it for them. or waterfront in Alexandria, one is irresistibly lured by the smell of corn grilled over charcoal. Vendors sit behind little braziers filled with glowing coals, fanning the flames furiously, or letting the sea breeze do it for them.

Remove the leaves or husks. Place the cobs on a charcoal grill, not too close to the fire. Turn them constantly. The grains will become flecked with black charred spots, but inside they will be soft and milky.

RIDDLE:.

Beaded, her head is high and she sleeps in a shawl.

Guess who she is.

ANSWER:.

A corn cob.

Stuffed Vegetables Dolma to the Turks, to the Turks, dolmathes dolmathes to the Greeks, to the Greeks, dolmeh dolmeh to the Iranians, and to the Iranians, and mahs.h.i.+ mahs.h.i.+ to the Arabs, stuffed vegetables are the great party pieces and festive dishes of the Middle East. Every country has developed its own versions, leaving them whole and hollowing them; making a slit or cutting them in half; and stuffing them with a variety of fillings. to the Arabs, stuffed vegetables are the great party pieces and festive dishes of the Middle East. Every country has developed its own versions, leaving them whole and hollowing them; making a slit or cutting them in half; and stuffing them with a variety of fillings.

The origin of stuffed vegetables is not certain, though both the Turks and the Greeks claim them as their creation. They do not appear in the early Arab ma.n.u.scripts, but they were known at the time of the Ottoman Empire, and were famously served at the banquets of the Sultans. They are likely to have developed as part of a court cuisine, in the palace kitchens, where teams of skilled and dedicated cooks strove to excite the curiosity and t.i.tillate the palates of a rich and powerful leisured cla.s.s.

Today people of modest means can usually afford stuffed grape leaves and vegetables. They count their own time as cheap and spend it lavishly on hollowing and wrapping and making elaborate fillings. It satisfies the wish to give of yourself by taking trouble, as well as the need to impress by culinary expertise. It is the kind of cooking, like little pies and pastries, that people do in company with relatives and friends, which is a.s.sociated with good times and fun in the kitchen.

In the past, stuffed vegetables were fried gently in oil or samna samna (clarified b.u.t.ter) before being stewed, or they were sent in large trays to be cooked in the baker's oven. Today the tendency is to make dishes lighter, and frying is usually omitted. (clarified b.u.t.ter) before being stewed, or they were sent in large trays to be cooked in the baker's oven. Today the tendency is to make dishes lighter, and frying is usually omitted.

Cla.s.sic Vegetable Fillings A great variety of vegetable fillings exist. Vegetables with a meat filling are meant to be eaten hot, those with a meatless filling are usually cooked in oil and eaten cold. In Turkey these are called yalangi dolma yalangi dolma or "false or "false dolma," dolma," because of the lack of meat. The following are the fillings most widely used. Quant.i.ties are enough to stuff about 2 pounds of vegetables, but this varies according to the size of the vegetables and the amount of pulp scooped out. because of the lack of meat. The following are the fillings most widely used. Quant.i.ties are enough to stuff about 2 pounds of vegetables, but this varies according to the size of the vegetables and the amount of pulp scooped out.

Meat Filling To fill about 2 pounds of vegetables It is called It is called sheikh el mahs.h.i.+ sheikh el mahs.h.i.+ and also and also tatbila tatbila. The word sheikh sheikh implies that it is the grandest since it is all meat. implies that it is the grandest since it is all meat.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped 12 ounces lean ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon or teaspoon ground allspice cup pine nuts (optional) Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add the onion and fry gently until soft and transparent. Add the meat, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and cinnamon or allspice, and stir, crus.h.i.+ng the meat with a fork and turning it over, until it changes color. Moisten with a few tablespoons of water and cook gently for about 10 minutes, until the meat is tender.

Fry the pine nuts, if using, in a skillet in a drop of oil, shaking the skillet until lightly browned all over, and stir into the meat.

Meat and Rice Filling To fill about 2 pounds of vegetables This is the most common filling and is called This is the most common filling and is called hashwa hashwa. If the vegetables are going to be stewed, the filling can be mixed raw. If the vegetables are going to be baked, the filling must be cooked first, because the rice needs liquid. Short-grain or round rice is used because it is sticky and binds the filling.

1 onion, finely chopped (optional) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil pound lean ground lamb or beef cup short-grain or round rice, washed and drained 1 tomato, peeled and chopped (optional) 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley (optional) Salt and pepper teaspoon ground cinnamon or teaspoon ground allspice If the vegetables are going to be stewed, put all the ingredients together in a bowl and knead well by hand until thoroughly blended. Do not fill the vegetables more than three-quarters full, to allow for the expansion of the rice.