The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 21

1 medium-sized white Dutch or Savoy cabbage 1 cups rice cup yellow split peas 1 large onion, finely chopped Vegetable oil 1 pound ground beef teaspoon turmeric Salt and pepper tablespoon tomato paste cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup wine vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar To detach the cabbage leaves, cut a deep cone into the core at the stem end with a pointed knife and plunge the whole cabbage into boiling salted water. This will soften and loosen 1 or 2 layers of leaves. Detach these, and plunge again into boiling water to detach more leaves, and continue until all of the leaves are separated. Cut very large leaves in half, but leave small ones whole.

Prepare the filling. Wash the rice and cook in boiling water until it is almost tender- about 10 minutes-then drain. Boil the split peas separately until tender. Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil until soft and transparent. Add the meat and turmeric and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the meat changes color, then remove from the heat and add the rice and split peas, tomato paste, parsley, and more salt and pepper. Mix well. Lay the cabbage leaves on a plate one at a time. Shave off the thickest part of the hard rib if necessary. Put a heaping tablespoon of the mixture at the bottom of each leaf, bring the sides up over it, and roll up into a bundle. Put a little oil at the bottom of a heavy pan, cover with a few broken leaves to protect the others from burning, then arrange over them rows and layers of stuffed cabbage rolls.

Mix the vinegar with an equal quant.i.ty of water, stir in the sugar, and pour over the rolls.

Put a plate over them, cover the pan, and cook gently on a very low flame for -1 hour, until rolls are very tender and the liquid has been absorbed, adding water if necessary. Serve hot or cold. hour, until rolls are very tender and the liquid has been absorbed, adding water if necessary. Serve hot or cold.

Mahs.h.i.+ Coromb Stuffed Cabbage Leaves Serves 6 1 medium-sized white Dutch or Savoy cabbage Salt Meat-and-rice filling (page 306) Juice of 1 lemon Pepper Cut a deep cone into the core at the stem end with a pointed knife and plunge the whole cabbage into boiling salted water to soften and loosen 1 or 2 layers of leaves. Detach these and plunge again into boiling water to detach more leaves. Continue until all of the leaves are separated. Cut very large leaves in half, but leave small ones whole.

Prepare the filling, leaving it uncooked.

Lay the cabbage leaves on a plate, one at a time. Shave off the thickest part of the hard rib flat with a knife. Put a heaping tablespoon of filling on each leaf, near the stem end, and roll up loosely, tucking in both sides to enclose the filling. The parcel must be loose, to leave room for the rice to expand without tearing the leaves.

Line a large saucepan with torn or unused leaves to prevent the stuffed leaves from sticking to the bottom. Set the stuffed leaves on top of them in layers, packing them tightly. Cover with water and lemon juice mixed with a little salt and pepper. Cover the pan and cook very gently for -l hour. Serve hot.

Variations Cover with tomato juice instead of the water.

Tuck 6 or 7 whole garlic cloves in between the stuffed leaves.

Add 1 tablespoon dried mint or 3 of chopped fresh dill to the sauce at the end.

Mahs.h.i.+ Korrat Stuffed Leek Rolls with Tamarind Makes about 22 This version with tamarind is from Aleppo. Serve hot or cold, as a first course or part of a buffet meal. This version with tamarind is from Aleppo. Serve hot or cold, as a first course or part of a buffet meal.

4 very fat leeks Salt and pepper 1 pound ground beef 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice cup vegetable oil 1 tablespoons tamarind paste (see page 46) 1 tablespoons sugar Cut the hard green ends off the leeks, so that you have white cylinders about 6 inches long. With a sharp knife, make a slit very carefully along one side of each leek, through to the center but no farther. Boil the leeks in salted water till softened. Drain and cut a slice off the root end, freeing the layers from each other. You will have wide rectangular strips.

Season the ground meat with salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice and work to a soft paste with your hands. Put about 1 heaping tablespoon filling in a line along the larger side of a rectangle, leaving about 1 inch at each end, and roll up like a long thin cigar. Continue with all the leaves. When they get too narrow, put 2 together to make a roll.

Heat the oil in 2 large skillets. Put in the rolls, side by side, and saute gently for a few minutes, until lightly colored all over, turning them over once. Dilute the tamarind paste and sugar in a little hot water and pour over the rolls. Add more water-enough to cover them.

Cook, covered, over very low heat for - hour. Remove the lids towards the end to reduce the sauce if necessary. hour. Remove the lids towards the end to reduce the sauce if necessary.

Mahs.h.i.+ Qarah Stuffed Pumpkin Serves 6-8 The round, sweet orange-fleshed pumpkins are the ones to use for this dish. The amount of stuffing you need depends on the size of the pumpkin. If you wish to make it without meat, increase the quant.i.ty of rice. The round, sweet orange-fleshed pumpkins are the ones to use for this dish. The amount of stuffing you need depends on the size of the pumpkin. If you wish to make it without meat, increase the quant.i.ty of rice.

1 pumpkin, about 9 inches in diameter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil pound ground meat-lamb, beef, or veal cup short- or medium-grain rice, cooked 2-3 tablespoons pine nuts 2-3 tablespoons black or golden raisins Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon or teaspoon allspice Wash the pumpkin and, with a strong sharp knife, cut out a round lid around the stalk end of the pumpkin and lift it out. Sc.r.a.pe inside and remove the seeds and loose fibers.

Make the filling. Fry the onion in the oil till soft. Add the meat and continue to cook, crus.h.i.+ng it with a fork and stirring until it changes color. Add the rest of the ingredients (the pine nuts may be toasted or fried till lightly colored) and fill the pumpkin. Put the lid on, place it on a baking sheet, and bake for at least an hour in a 375F oven, until it feels soft when you press.

Bring to the table and serve hot, cut into generous slices, each topped with stuffing.

Variations Replace the rice filling with bulgur pilaf with raisins and pine nuts (page 368).

Sprinkle a little sugar inside to sweeten the flesh before filling the pumpkin.

Mahs.h.i.+ Safargel Stuffed Quinces Serves 4 This is exquisite and also very easy. The quinces are hard and take a long time to cook before you can even cut them up and stuff them, but you can bake them hours- even a day-in advance. I use very large quinces, weighing a pound each. Serve as a hot first course. This is exquisite and also very easy. The quinces are hard and take a long time to cook before you can even cut them up and stuff them, but you can bake them hours- even a day-in advance. I use very large quinces, weighing a pound each. Serve as a hot first course.

2 large quinces (1 pound each) 1 medium onion, chopped 1 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons pine nuts 7 ounces lean ground lamb or beef Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon allspice Wash the quinces and rub off the light down that covers their skin in patches. Put them on a piece of foil on a baking sheet and bake in a preheated 325F oven for 1 -2 hours, until they feel soft when you press.

For the stuffing, fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the pine nuts and stir, turning them over, until golden. Put the raw ground meat in a bowl and add salt, pepper, cinnamon, and allspice. Mix and work well to a smooth paste with your hand. Add the fried onion and pine nuts and work them into the paste.

When the quinces are cool enough to handle, cut them open lengthwise. Remove the cores with a pointed knife and discard them. With a pointed spoon, scoop out about a third of the pulp and mix it into the meat stuffing. Heap a quarter of this mixture into each quince half and press it down.

Put the 4 stuffed quince halves on the baking sheet and bake at 350F for another hour. Serve hot.

Beans, Chickpeas, Lentils, and Other Legumes Since ancient times, dishes based on legumes such as chickpeas, beans, and lentils have been looked down on as the food of the poor. In literature, proverbs, and songs they are constantly referred to as the food of the poor or the food of the mean. They have even been included as such in the Kitab al Bukhala (Book of Misers) Kitab al Bukhala (Book of Misers) by the writer al-Jahiz (775-868). But regardless of the stigma, these usually peasant dishes are nevertheless loved by everybody. Numerous jokes are told about Arab dignitaries who, when served with French by the writer al-Jahiz (775-868). But regardless of the stigma, these usually peasant dishes are nevertheless loved by everybody. Numerous jokes are told about Arab dignitaries who, when served with French haute cuisine haute cuisine or cosmopolitan food in hotels or at banquets, long for the or cosmopolitan food in hotels or at banquets, long for the ful medames ful medames (page 328) or chickpeas and spinach which they can tell that the servants are eating from the aromas wafting up from the kitchens. (page 328) or chickpeas and spinach which they can tell that the servants are eating from the aromas wafting up from the kitchens.

A little dull at times, but more often used in exciting combinations with other ingredients and deliciously flavored with spices, garlic, onions, and herbs, legumes are also important for their nutritive value. By themselves, they can be eaten cold as mezze or salads, or hot as vegetable side dishes. Cooked with meat, vegetables, rice, and pasta, they add body and texture to many wonderful winter stews.

Many vegetarian dishes which use legumes are known as the Lenten dishes of the Christian communities and are a.s.sociated with the austerity month, which falls at the end of winter. For Muslims, they are the substantial winter foods on which people survive.

EGYPTIAN PROVERB:.

The man of good breeding eats beans and returns to his breeding.

Zeytinyagli Barbunya Borlotti Beans with Onions and Tomatoes in Olive Oil Serves 6 Beans cooked in olive oil and eaten at room temperature are a Turkish staple. The mottled pink borlotti beans (they are called Beans cooked in olive oil and eaten at room temperature are a Turkish staple. The mottled pink borlotti beans (they are called barbunya barbunya, which is also the name for red mullets) are a special treat. The Turkish ones obtainable here need to be picked over for foreign matter. There are also good-quality canned varieties which you can use.

1 cups borlotti beans, soaked overnight cups borlotti beans, soaked overnight 1 large onion, sliced 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1-2 teaspoons sugar Good pinch of ground chili pepper or flakes Salt Bunch of dill, chopped cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Drain the beans, and boil them in fresh, un-salted water for 30 minutes.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil until soft and golden, stirring occasionally. Add garlic and stir for a minute or so. Then add the tomatoes and cook gently until reduced to a pulp. Stir in the tomato paste, sugar, and chili pepper or flakes. Put in the drained beans and cover with about 2 cups water. Cook, covered, for 1 hour, or until the beans are tender (the time varies quite a bit), adding salt when they begin to soften, and more water as the mixture becomes dry. Add dill and the remaining oil, and cook for a few minutes more.

Stir in the parsley and leave to cool in the pan.

Variation Use haricot or b.u.t.ter beans instead of borlotti beans. At a pinch, for an instant dish, you may use good-quality canned beans.

Ful Medames Egyptian Brown Fava Beans Serves 6 The traditional Egyptian breakfast of dried fava beans is also the national dish, eaten at all times of the day, in the fields, in village mud-houses, and in the cities. Restaurants serve it as a mezze, and it is sold in the streets. Vendors put the beans in large, round, narrow-necked vessels, which they bury through the night in the dying embers of the public baths. The traditional Egyptian breakfast of dried fava beans is also the national dish, eaten at all times of the day, in the fields, in village mud-houses, and in the cities. Restaurants serve it as a mezze, and it is sold in the streets. Vendors put the beans in large, round, narrow-necked vessels, which they bury through the night in the dying embers of the public baths.

Ful medames is pre-Ottoman and pre-Islamic. It is probably as old as the Pharaohs. According to an Arab saying: "Beans have satisfied even the Pharaohs." Egyptians gleefully tell you that the little brown beans have been found in pharaonic tombs and have been made to germinate. There are fields of them, and promotional explanations on fake papyrus by the Ministry of Agriculture. Of course, they could have been put there by tomb robbers. is pre-Ottoman and pre-Islamic. It is probably as old as the Pharaohs. According to an Arab saying: "Beans have satisfied even the Pharaohs." Egyptians gleefully tell you that the little brown beans have been found in pharaonic tombs and have been made to germinate. There are fields of them, and promotional explanations on fake papyrus by the Ministry of Agriculture. Of course, they could have been put there by tomb robbers.

There are many types of dried fava beans- small, middle-sized, and large, all of which can be used-and there are very good-quality canned ones. Most expatriates are happy with canned ones, which they improve on with flavorings and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. These need to be turned into a pan with their juice and cooked for 15 minutes.

2 cups small Egyptian fava beans (ful medames), soaked overnight (and left unpeeled) soaked overnight (and left unpeeled) Salt cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Extra-virgin olive oil 3 lemons, quartered Salt and pepper 4-6 cloves garlic, crushed Chili-pepper flakes c.u.min As the cooking time varies depending on the quality and age of the beans, it is good to cook them in advance and to reheat them when you are ready to serve. Cook the drained beans in a fresh portion of unsalted water in a large saucepan with the lid on until tender, adding water to keep them covered, and salt when the beans have softened. They take 2-2 hours of gentle simmering. When the beans are soft, let the liquid reduce. It is usual to take out a ladle or two of the beans and to mash them with some of the cooking liquid, then stir this back into the beans. This is to thicken the sauce.

Serve the beans in soup bowls sprinkled with chopped parsley and accompanied by Arab bread.

Pa.s.s round the dressing ingredients for everyone to help themselves: a bottle of extra-virgin olive oil, the quartered lemons, salt and pepper, a little saucer with the crushed garlic, one with chili-pepper flakes, and one with ground c.u.min.

The beans are eaten gently crushed with the fork, so that they absorb the dressing.

Optional Garnishes Peel hard-boiled eggs-1 per person-to cut up in the bowl with the beans.

Top the beans with a chopped cuc.u.mber-and-tomato salad and thinly sliced mild onions or scallions. Otherwise, pa.s.s round a good bunch of scallions and quartered tomatoes and cuc.u.mbers cut into sticks.

Serve with tahina cream sauce (page 65) or salad (page 67), with pickles and sliced onions soaked in vinegar for 30 minutes.

Another way of serving ful medames ful medames is smothered in a garlicky tomato sauce (see page 464). is smothered in a garlicky tomato sauce (see page 464).

In Syria and Lebanon, they eat ful medames eat ful medames with yogurt or feta cheese, olives, and small cuc.u.mbers. with yogurt or feta cheese, olives, and small cuc.u.mbers.

Variations A traditional way of thickening the sauce is to throw a handful of red lentils ( cup) into the water at the start of the cooking.

In Iraq, large brown beans are used instead of the small Egyptian ones, in a dish called bad-kila bad-kila, which is also sold for breakfast in the street.

RIDDLE:.

It is divided into two equal parts and covered by a strong skin. Praised be G.o.d, who made it! And how do Arabs call it?

ANSWER: El ful.

Lentils in b.u.t.ter Serves 6 A good partner to omelets, little spicy sausages, and fried or broiled eggplant. A good partner to omelets, little spicy sausages, and fried or broiled eggplant.

2 cups large green or brown lentils, washed 1 onion, chopped 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped Pepper 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min Salt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter Juice of lemon (optional) In a large saucepan, fry the onion in the oil until soft and golden, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and stir until it just begins to color.

Add the lentils, pour in about 2 cups water, and bring to the boil. Add pepper and c.u.min, and simmer gently, covered, for about 20-30 minutes, until the lentils are tender, adding salt when they begin to soften. Add more water as it becomes absorbed and let it reduce at the end.

Serve with the b.u.t.ter stirred in until melted, and a squeeze of lemon if you like.

To dream of eating beans forebodes quarrelling and discord.

EGYPTIAN DREAM BOOK, 1231.

Adds bel Tamatem Lentils in Tomato Sauce Serves 4 This is good hot or cold, with plenty of raw olive oil. This is good hot or cold, with plenty of raw olive oil.

2 cloves garlic, crushed 3-4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 cup large green or brown lentils, washed Salt and pepper 1 teaspoon sugar cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon of the oil for a moment or two, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes. Then add the lentils and about 1 cup water. Stir and simmer, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the lentils are tender, adding salt, pepper, and sugar when they begin to soften.

Before serving, add parsley and stir in the remaining oil.

Shula Kalambar Lentils with Spinach Serves 6 A lentil-and-spinach dish was prepared in medieval Persia to heal the sick. For the cure to be effective, the ingredients had to be bought with money begged in the streets. Here is a modern version. A lentil-and-spinach dish was prepared in medieval Persia to heal the sick. For the cure to be effective, the ingredients had to be bought with money begged in the streets. Here is a modern version.

1 cups large green or brown lentils, washed Salt 1 pound fresh spinach or frozen leaf spinach 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or olive oil 2 or 3 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon ground c.u.min Pepper Boil the lentils in water for about 20 minutes, or until very tender, adding salt when they begin to soften, then drain.

Wash and drain the spinach and remove any hard stems. Put it in the pan with the lid on over very low heat for a minute or two, until the leaves crumple into a soft ma.s.s. They will steam in the water that clings to them. If using frozen spinach, defrost. Cut the spinach leaves into ribbons.

Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in the pan. Add the garlic with the coriander and c.u.min and stir for a moment or so, until the aroma rises. Now put in the lentils and spinach, add pepper, stir very well, and cook for a few minutes more.

Chickpeas with Turmeric Serves 6 In Morocco it is poor food eaten hot with bread. A grander version with saffron is served as a first course. You may use canned chickpeas. The same can also be done with white cannelini beans, dried or canned. In Morocco it is poor food eaten hot with bread. A grander version with saffron is served as a first course. You may use canned chickpeas. The same can also be done with white cannelini beans, dried or canned.

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed teaspoon turmeric 1 cups chickpeas, soaked overnight, or two 15-ounce cans chickpeas, drained Salt and pepper 1 cup chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until golden. Add the garlic and stir for a moment or two. Stir in the turmeric and add the drained soaked chickpeas. Cover with water and simmer for 1 hours, or until the chickpeas are very tender, adding salt and pepper when they have begun to soften, and water to keep them covered. Reduce the liquid at the end so that you have a thick sauce.

If using canned chickpeas, drain them and add -1 cup water and cook for about 20 minutes, to allow them to absorb the flavors.

Stir in the cilantro or parsley and cook 5 minutes more.

Variations Use teaspoon crushed saffron threads or powder instead of the turmeric.

Add the juice of 1 lemon.

Cannelini beans, dried and soaked overnight, or canned ones, drained, can be used in the same way as chickpeas.

For different, spicy chickpeas, omit the turmeric and add teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon c.u.min, and teaspoon ground chili pepper.

For another Moroccan version, omit the turmeric, put a chili pepper in the cooking water, season with salt and pepper when the chickpeas have already softened, and add chopped cilantro at the end, when the water has almost evaporated.

Fattet Hummus Chickpeas with Yogurt and Soaked Bread Serves 4-6 A number of popular Lebanese dishes which go under the name of A number of popular Lebanese dishes which go under the name of fatta fatta (see page 222) involve yogurt and a bed of soaked toasted or fried bread. This one is served for breakfast accompanied by scallions and green peppers cut into strips. (see page 222) involve yogurt and a bed of soaked toasted or fried bread. This one is served for breakfast accompanied by scallions and green peppers cut into strips.

cup chickpeas, soaked in cold water cup chickpeas, soaked in cold water overnight Salt 2-2 cups Greek-style thick drained yogurt or plain whole-milk yogurt 3 cloves garlic, crushed Pepper 2 pita breads TO GARNISH.

1-2 tablespoons dried mint leaves 3-4 tablespoons pine nuts 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Good pinch of ground chili pepper or flakes (optional) Drain the chickpeas and simmer in fresh water to cover until they are really very soft, usually well over an hour, adding salt only when they are nearly done.

Beat the yogurt with the garlic and pepper.

Open out the pita breads and leave them for a few minutes in a very hot oven, or turn them under the broiler until they are crisp and very lightly browned. Then break them up with your hands into the bottom of a serving dish. Pour the chickpeas and some of their cooking water over the bread, soaking it thoroughly, keeping out a few chickpeas to decorate the dish.

Pour the yogurt mixture over the chickpeas.

To garnish, crush the mint leaves over the top. Fry the pine nuts in the b.u.t.ter or oil until they are a light brown. Sprinkle these and the extra chickpeas over the yogurt. Some people like to sprinkle on hot ground chili pepper or chili flakes.

Serve at once, while the chickpeas are hot and the rest is lukewarm.

Variations A Damascus version called ta.s.seia ta.s.seia has the chickpeas crushed with a pestle and mortar and mixed with 2-3 tablespoons tahina, the juice of lemon, and 1 crushed garlic clove. You can put this in a blender with a little of the cooking liquor. Squeeze a little lemon juice in the chickpea water before sprinkling over the bread, spread the mashed chickpea cream over the top, and cover with yogurt, then garnish as before. has the chickpeas crushed with a pestle and mortar and mixed with 2-3 tablespoons tahina, the juice of lemon, and 1 crushed garlic clove. You can put this in a blender with a little of the cooking liquor. Squeeze a little lemon juice in the chickpea water before sprinkling over the bread, spread the mashed chickpea cream over the top, and cover with yogurt, then garnish as before.

Instead of toasting the bread, some people like to cut it into triangles and deep-fry them in hot oil, then drain the pieces on paper towels and carry on as above.

An old version of this dish is made with lamb's trotters, which give a deliciously rich flavor and texture to the stock.

Rice ROZ.

Rice is the grand prestigious dish, the festive dish that has pride of place at banquets and on all celebratory occasions. In the cities, for those who can afford it, it is also an everyday family dish. Rice was first introduced in the marshlands of the area through Persia from India, and was spread by the Arabs as far as Sicily and Spain. By the tenth century it had become an important basic food in the Middle East. In many countries today it forms the main part of the meal, with small amounts of meat and vegetables as garnish or accompaniment. It is roz roz to the Arabs and to the Arabs and pilav pilav to the Turks. Iranians call it to the Turks. Iranians call it chelow chelow when it is plain, and when it is plain, and polow polow when combined with other ingredients. In the Arabian Gulf they have taken to an Indian way of making it and call it when combined with other ingredients. In the Arabian Gulf they have taken to an Indian way of making it and call it biriyan biriyan.

Plain rice is served with stews, grilled meats, and salads, and it is also accompanied by sauces. It is sometimes colored yellow with saffron or turmeric, or red with tomatoes, and it can be garnished with nuts. It is molded into various shapes for presentation, a favorite being a ring. Rice is also cooked with other ingredients, such as vegetables, fruit, nuts, meat, chicken, and fish. In Middle Eastern tradition, it is served at the same time as all the other dishes, to be chosen first or last, to each individual's taste. Some people claim that they cannot taste anything without eating rice at the same time. In families where the Western style of serving three courses has been adopted, rice is often served at the end of the meal, accompanied by a special sauce, or by part of the main dish which has been set aside to be savored with it. In Turkey it is sometimes served at the end of the meal to accompany dried fruit in syrup (see Khoshaf, page 409).

Many different types of rice exist. It is grown in Iran, Iraq, Syria, Egypt, and Turkey. Varieties of long-grain, usually those grown locally, are generally used for savory rice dishes. Short-grain (also known as "pudding" rice) and medium-grain (risotto rice) are used for stuffing vegetables or for puddings, because they stick together in the stuffing and become creamy quickly when cooked in milk. The special appeal of long-grain lies in its ability to be tender while remaining firm and separate. The finest-quality long-grains are cultivated in Iran, where there are at least six different and particularly fragrant varieties. The most prestigious, which are used for very special occasions because they are very expensive, are the black-tailed domsiah domsiah, the imperial-court darbari darbari, and the amber-scented ambar-bu ambar-bu. Then come sadri sadri, which is the most commonly used; the dagger-shaped khanjari; khanjari; and the sweet and the sweet s.h.i.+kari s.h.i.+kari. In Turkey, bersani bersani is the rice commonly used, although is the rice commonly used, although kulakli kulakli, which is grown in small quant.i.ties near the Syrian border, is considered the best of the home-grown. In Egypt, ras.h.i.+di ras.h.i.+di rice is the most appreciated. None of these are available in America. American long-grain and the prestigious basmati, which is closest to the third quality of Persian rice and is the most widely favored rice in the Middle East for its wonderful flavor and aroma, are fine alternatives. Originally from India and Pakistan, basmati is now also grown in Texas. rice is the most appreciated. None of these are available in America. American long-grain and the prestigious basmati, which is closest to the third quality of Persian rice and is the most widely favored rice in the Middle East for its wonderful flavor and aroma, are fine alternatives. Originally from India and Pakistan, basmati is now also grown in Texas.

Ways of Cooking Plain Rice A Syrian Way Serves 4-6 2 cups long-grain or basmati rice 3 cups water Salt 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Wash the rice, if basmati, in warm water, then rinse, and drain. American long-grain does not need was.h.i.+ng. Bring the water to the boil in a pan with a little salt to taste. Throw in the drained rice, bring to the boil again, and boil vigorously for 2 minutes. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid and cook over very low heat, undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the water has been absorbed and the rice is cooked. It should be tender and separate, with little holes all over the surface. Turn off the heat, and allow the rice to rest for 5 minutes.

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a saucepan and pour it evenly all over the rice. Let it rest again, covered, for 5 minutes longer, until the melted fat has been absorbed by the rice. It tastes better with b.u.t.ter, but you may use oil instead.

An Egyptian riddle describes the manner of serving rice at the end of a meal: QUESTION:.

Why is rice like a shaouish shaouish (policeman)? (policeman)?

ANSWER:.

It is brilliantly white like the shaouish's shaouish's uniform in the summer, and it arrives at the end like the shaouish when everything (i.e., the trouble) is over.

A Lebanese Way The ingredients and quant.i.ties (to serve 4-6) are the same as above.

Wash the rice if basmati, and drain well. It is not necessary to wash American long-grain. Put the 3 cups of water, salt, and 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a saucepan, and bring to the boil. Throw in the rice and boil vigorously for 2 minutes. Cover the pan tightly and cook over very low heat, undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and fluffy, and little holes have appeared all over the surface. Turn off the heat and allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.