The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 6

Bstilla bil Hout Individual Seafood Pies Makes 6 * These individual Moroccan pies are made with the paper-thin pancake-type pastry called * These individual Moroccan pies are made with the paper-thin pancake-type pastry called ouarka ouarka (page 125), but fillo can be used. They are deliciously spicy and herby, with ma.s.ses of parsley and cilantro. Serve them as a first or as a main course. (page 125), but fillo can be used. They are deliciously spicy and herby, with ma.s.ses of parsley and cilantro. Serve them as a first or as a main course.

1 pounds firm white fish, such as cod or haddock Salt 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon -1 teaspoon c.u.min 1 teaspoons paprika Good pinch of ground chili pepper 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, or more 1 cup chopped cilantro, or more 8 ounces cooked, peeled large shrimp 6 sheets fillo pastry About 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 egg yolk Poach the fish in salted water very briefly, until it just begins to flake, then drain. Remove the skin and flake it into pieces.

In a bowl, mix the olive oil and lemon juice with the c.u.min, paprika, and ground chili pepper, the garlic, parsley, and cilantro. Put in the fish and shrimp and turn to cover all the pieces with this marinade.

Open out the sheets of fillo when you are ready to make the pies and be prepared to work fast. Leave the sheets in a pile and brush the top one with vegetable oil. Put a sixth of the filling mixture in a flat mound on one side of the sheet, about 3 h h inches from the edge, in the inches from the edge, in the center. Let it spread over a surface of about 3 inches.

Wrap the filling up into a flat square parcel: Fold the nearest edge of the sheet over the filling, then very carefully lift the part of the sheet with the filling and turn over. Continue to turn the parcel over, folding the 2 side ends up at different turns so that the filling ends up covered with several layers of pastry. (See drawings on page 121.) Continue with the remaining sheets and filling, and arrange the parcels on a sheet of foil on a baking sheet. Brush the tops with the egg yolk mixed with 1 teaspoon of water and bake in a preheated 350F oven for 35-45 minutes, or until the pastry is crisp and brown.

Serve hot.

Trid Chicken and Onion Pies Serves 8 * * Trid Trid is described as the poor man's is described as the poor man's bstilla bstilla. It is also said that the Prophet would have liked it best. He is known to have been fond of onions, and here a huge ma.s.s is reduced to a creamy sauce. I prefer it too.

5 large onions, weighing about 3 pounds total 4 tablespoons sunflower oil - teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoons cinnamon plus more to sprinkle on top at the end Salt Juice of lemon 4 chicken fillets-all breast halves, or 2 breast halves and 2 legs (skinless) 1 cup finely chopped cilantro 8 sheets fillo pastry 4 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 egg yolk Confectioners' sugar to sprinkle on (optional) Chop the onions-in batches in the food processor, if you like. Put them in a large saucepan with the oil, ginger, cinnamon, a little salt, lemon juice, and the chicken fillets. Put the lid on and cook on low heat for about 15 minutes.

Take out the chicken pieces and continue cooking the onions uncovered so that the liquid evaporates. Cook until the onions have been reduced to a creamy sauce and you can see the oil sizzling (it takes about 1 hour), stirring every so often.

Cut the chicken into smallish pieces and put them back in the pan with the onion sauce. Add the cilantro and mix very well. Taste and add salt and flavorings if necessary.

Open out the sheets of fillo when you are ready to use them and leave them in a pile. Brush the top one with melted b.u.t.ter or oil.

Take about an eighth of the chicken-and-onion mixture and put it in a flat mound on the sheet about 3 inches from one edge, in the middle. Fold the edge over the filling, and turn the parcel over with the filling, folding the side ends of the sheet up at different turns so as to end up with a flat parcel with several layers of pastry on either side. (See drawings on page 121.) Continue with the rest of the fillo sheets and filling, and place all the parcels on foil on a baking dish or baking sheet. Brush the tops with the egg yolk mixed with 1 teaspoon of water. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 35 to 45 minutes, until crisp and golden.

Serve hot. Pa.s.s round the confectioners' sugar and cinnamon for people to sprinkle on if they wish.

Variation Another Moroccan pie has a filling of cooked chicken (3 half b.r.e.a.s.t.s) mixed with 1 fried chopped onion, h h pound potatoes boiled and mashed, some chopped parsley, 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs, and 2 raw eggs (as a binder). It is served hot, accompanied with lemon wedges. pound potatoes boiled and mashed, some chopped parsley, 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs, and 2 raw eggs (as a binder). It is served hot, accompanied with lemon wedges.

Tagine Malsouka Meat and Haricot Bean Pie Serves 6 * This rich Tunisian pie makes an interesting main dish. * This rich Tunisian pie makes an interesting main dish.

1 pound lean lamb, cut into -inch cubes 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper teaspoon powdered saffron (optional) teaspoon ground cinnamon A 15-ounce can white haricot or navy beans, drained 6 eggs cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted, or cup vegetable oil 12 sheets fillo pastry 1 egg yolk, to glaze In a saucepan, brown the meat in 2 tablespoons oil. Cover with water, and season to taste with salt and pepper, saffron if used, and cinnamon. Bring to the boil and simmer slowly and gently, covered, for about 1 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding a little water if necessary to keep the meat covered and letting the sauce reduce at the end. Stir in the drained beans.

Break the eggs into the pan and keep stirring over low heat until the eggs begin to set but are still creamy.

Brush a large baking dish with melted b.u.t.ter or oil and fit 4 sheets of fillo pastry into the dish, one on top of another, so that the edges come up over the sides of the dish, brus.h.i.+ng melted b.u.t.ter or oil between the layers. Spread half of the meat stew evenly over the top, and cover with another 4 sheets of pastry, again brus.h.i.+ng each one with melted b.u.t.ter. Cover with the rest of the stew and the remaining sheets of pastry, each one except the top one brushed with melted b.u.t.ter or oil. Brush the top one with beaten egg yolk and bake in a 350F oven for the first 40 minutes. Then raise the heat to 425F and bake for 10-15 minutes longer, until the pastry is crisp and a deep-golden color. The eggs in the stew should have set firmly.

Spanakopitta Large Spinach Pie Serves 16-20 * The large, famous Greek pie is much quicker to make than the little triangles and cigars. It is not finger food but makes an excellent first course or main vegetarian meal. * The large, famous Greek pie is much quicker to make than the little triangles and cigars. It is not finger food but makes an excellent first course or main vegetarian meal.

2 pounds fresh spinach 5 ounces feta cheese 4 ounces cottage cheese 4 eggs, lightly beaten cup dill, finely chopped (optional) teaspoon grated nutmeg Salt and pepper 14 sheets fillo pastry cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted, or about cup olive or vegetable oil Wash the spinach and cut off any hard stems, then drain. Put the leaves in a pan and cook with the lid on and no extra water for a few minutes only, until they crumple into a soft ma.s.s. (They steam in the water that clings to them.) Drain and press out the excess liquid, which could make the pastry soggy. Return to the pan and dry it out further, stirring, over high heat.

Mash the cheeses together with a fork. Add the eggs, spinach, dill, nutmeg, salt if necessary (take into account the saltiness of the cheese), and pepper.

Follow the instructions for "Making a Large Layered Greek-Style Fillo Pie" above (page 130).

Serve hot.

Tyropitta Large Cheese Pie Serves 16-20 * The filling is a traditional one for the famous Greek pie. A milder-tasting alternative (see variation) was adopted in Britain by my contemporaries from Egypt. Both make a lovely teatime savory as well as a snack meal accompanied by salad. * The filling is a traditional one for the famous Greek pie. A milder-tasting alternative (see variation) was adopted in Britain by my contemporaries from Egypt. Both make a lovely teatime savory as well as a snack meal accompanied by salad.

1 pound cottage cheese 1 pound feta cheese, mashed with a fork 4 eggs, lightly beaten Pepper 4 tablespoons finely chopped dill, chervil, mint, chives, or parsley 14 sheets fillo pastry cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted, or cup vegetable oil Put the cheeses with the eggs in a bowl and mix thoroughly, until well blended. Add pepper and stir in the herbs.

Follow the instructions for "Making a Large Layered Greek-Style Fillo Pie" on page 130. Serve preferably hot.

Variations * Paint the top sheet with 1 egg yolk mixed with 1 teaspoon water (do not brush with b.u.t.ter), and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

* For another filling which is not traditional and does not sound very nice but is actually wonderful, put pound edam, pound gouda, pound cheddar, all cut into pieces in the food processor with pound cottage cheese and 4 eggs, and blend to a h.o.m.ogeneous ma.s.s.

Tepsi Boregi Creamy Filo Cheese Pie Serves 6-8 * This wonderful creamy Turkish pie is something between a savory flan and a cheese lasagna. The fillo turns into a soft, thin pasta, so don't expect it to be crisp and papery. It sounds complicated but it is quite easy, and you will be delighted by the lightness and the variety of flavors and textures. * This wonderful creamy Turkish pie is something between a savory flan and a cheese lasagna. The fillo turns into a soft, thin pasta, so don't expect it to be crisp and papery. It sounds complicated but it is quite easy, and you will be delighted by the lightness and the variety of flavors and textures.

7 ounces feta cheese 7 ounces cottage or farmer's cheese - cup finely chopped dill cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted 2V4 cups milk, warmed 4 eggs, lightly beaten 6 sheets fillo pastry 7 ounces Turkish ka.s.seri cheese or mature cheddar, grated For the filling, blend the feta cheese with the cottage or farmer's cheese and dill.

Mix the melted b.u.t.ter, milk, and eggs.

Use a rectangular baking dish or pan smaller than the sheets of fillo. Open the sheets only when you are ready to use them and keep them in a pile so that they do not dry out.

Lay a sheet in the greased baking dish or pan, fitting it into the corners and letting the edges come up the sides and overhang. With a ladle, pour a little of the milk-and-egg mixture (a little less than a sixth, as you will need enough for 6 layers with a larger amount for the last one, on top) all over the sheet and sprinkle with the grated ka.s.seri or cheddar. Tear the second sheet into strips and lay them on top. Pour a little of the milk-and-egg mixture over the strips and sprinkle with the grated kasar or cheddar.

Lay the third sheet on top-as it is, without tearing it-and spread the cheese filling evenly on top. The fourth and fifth sheets must be torn into strips, and each layer sprinkled with the milk-and-egg mixture and the grated cheese. Fold the overhanging bits of fillo over the pie and lay the last sheet on top. Tuck it down into the sides and ladle the remaining milk-and-egg mixture over it.

Bake at 350F for 30-45 minutes, until the top is golden brown. It puffs up and falls again when you cut it.

Serve hot, cut into squares.

Brik a l'Oeuf Serves 1 * These Tunisian fried parcels in a crisp casing of * These Tunisian fried parcels in a crisp casing of ouarka ouarka (see page 125) are ubiquitous appetizers in North African restaurants. You can use fillo to make them, although it is not quite the same. They should be served immediately, as soon as they come out of the frying oil. (see page 125) are ubiquitous appetizers in North African restaurants. You can use fillo to make them, although it is not quite the same. They should be served immediately, as soon as they come out of the frying oil.

1 or 2 sheets fillo pastry Vegetable oil for frying FOR A TUNA FILLING.

2 tablespoons chopped onion, fried 3 tablespoons mashed canned tuna 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt and pepper 1 egg FOR A CHEESE-AND-MUSHROOM FILLING.

3 tablespoons grated cheese 3 or 4 mushrooms, sliced and sauteed lightly in b.u.t.ter or oil 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt and pepper 1 egg Spread 1 sheet of fillo out on a large plate or flat surface. If the fillo is of a very thin quality and the filling seems too wet and may result in a torn pastry, lay 2 sheets together one on top of the other.

Prepare one of the fillings. Mix the filling ingredients (except the egg) and place in a flat mound at one end of the sheet. Break the egg over the mixture without mixing it in. Fold the sheet over and over, folding in the sides and enclosing the filling in a neat, firm, but loose square parcel.

Drop the packet or brik brik into about into about h h inch hot oil over medium heat. The oil must not be too hot or the pastry will burn before it is cooked inside. Turn it over as soon as it turns a light-brown color and fry the other side. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. The egg should be still runny. (It squirted out in my face once at a restaurant.) inch hot oil over medium heat. The oil must not be too hot or the pastry will burn before it is cooked inside. Turn it over as soon as it turns a light-brown color and fry the other side. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. The egg should be still runny. (It squirted out in my face once at a restaurant.) Serve hot immediately, or keep warm in the lowest oven until ready to serve.

Sambousek bi Gebna Little Cheese Turnovers Makes about 35 * In Lebanon the turnovers with meat are the most prestigious, but we in Egypt always made cheese ones. No tea party was ever right without them. The recipe for the dough has been pa.s.sed down in my family for generations as "1 coffee cup of oil, 1 coffee cup of melted b.u.t.ter, 1 coffee cup of warm water, 1 teaspoon of salt, and work in as much flour as it takes." We baked the pies, but it was also common to fry them in oil. In Lebanon the turnovers with meat are the most prestigious, but we in Egypt always made cheese ones. No tea party was ever right without them. The recipe for the dough has been pa.s.sed down in my family for generations as "1 coffee cup of oil, 1 coffee cup of melted b.u.t.ter, 1 coffee cup of warm water, 1 teaspoon of salt, and work in as much flour as it takes." We baked the pies, but it was also common to fry them in oil.

FOR THE DOUGH.

cup sunflower or vegetable oil cup (1 stick) b.u.t.ter, melted cup warm water teaspoon salt About 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 teaspoon water, to brush on Sesame seeds to sprinkle on (optional) FOR THE CHEESE FILLING.

1 pound crumbled or grated cheese such as feta, kashkaval, ka.s.seri, or kefalotyri; try a half-and-half mixture of feta and cottage cheese (well drained) or the mixed Western-cheese variation given on page 131 2 lightly beaten eggs White pepper 3-4 tablespoons chopped herbs such as flat-leaf parsley, mint, or dill Make the dough. Heat the oil and b.u.t.ter in a small pan over low heat until the b.u.t.ter melts, then add the water and salt and beat well. Pour into a large mixing bowl.

Add the flour gradually-only just enough to have a greasy dough that holds together in a ball-stirring with a fork to begin with and then working it in with your hand. A few tablespoons more flour may be needed. The dough should be handled as little as possible, so stop mixing as soon as it holds together. Leave it to rest, covered in plastic wrap at room temperature, for 20 minutes. (Do not put it in the refrigerator: that will make it unworkable.) This dough does not roll out very well. Take walnut-sized lumps, and roll each into a little ball. Flatten it as thinly as possible between the palms of your hands and pull it further into a round of about 4 inches in diameter.

Mix the filling ingredients and put a heaping teaspoon of the filling on half of each circle (1). Fold the other half over to make a half-moon shape and seal by pinching the edges firmly together. If you like, make the traditional wavy edge by pinching, folding, and twisting around the edge (2).

Arrange the pies on baking sheets (they need not be greased). Brush the surface of each pie with the beaten egg and, if you like, sprin- Sambousek bi Gebna (continued) kle lightly with sesame seeds. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for about 30 minutes, or until golden.

Serve the sambousek sambousek hot or cold, but they are best just out of the oven. hot or cold, but they are best just out of the oven.

Variations * Instead of baking, deep-fry in inch vegetable oil. In this case, do not brush with the egg.

* You may use commercial frozen puff pastry (defrosted), but roll it out as thinly as you can.

Sambousek bi Lahm Meat Turnovers Makes about 25 A Syrian and Lebanese specialty. Syrian and Lebanese specialty.

cup vegetable oil cup warm water teaspoon salt 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 teaspoon water Meat filling with pine nuts (tatbila) (tatbila) (page 118) In a large bowl, mix the oil, water, and salt, beating with a fork. Gradually work in enough flour to have a soft, malleable dough-stirring it in with the fork to begin with, then working it in with your hands. You may use it right away, or keep it for as long as a day, covered in plastic wrap. But it must be at room temperature, not chilled in the refrigerator.

The dough is very oily and must be rolled out without flouring the rolling pin or the work surface. These become oily and do not stick to the dough. Divide the dough into 4 pieces to make rolling easier. Roll out as thinly as you can, and cut into 4-inch rounds with a pastry cutter. Sc.r.a.ps can be immediately rolled into a ball and rolled out again, so you do not waste any part of the dough.

Put a heaping teaspoon of the filling in the center of one half of each circle. Fold the other half over to make a half-moon shape and seal by pinching the edges firmly together. If you like, make the traditional wavy edge by pinching, folding, and twisting around the edge. (See drawings on page 135.) Arrange the pies on oiled baking sheets and brush the surface of each with the beaten egg mixed with a drop of water. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for about 30 minutes, or until golden.

Pie Dough for Lahma bi Ajeen, Sfiha, and Fatayer It is a bread dough made with olive oil.

1 teaspoon active dry yeast Pinch of sugar About 1 cup lukewarm water 3 cups bread flour 1 teaspoon salt cup extra-virgin olive oil Dissolve the yeast with the sugar in h h cup of the warm water. Leave in a warm place for about 10 minutes, until it froths. cup of the warm water. Leave in a warm place for about 10 minutes, until it froths.

Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl and mix in the oil. Add the yeast mixture and, a little at a time, just enough of the remaining warm water so that the dough holds together in a ball. Begin by using a fork, then work it in with your hands. Knead vigorously for about 10 minutes, until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl and is smooth and elastic.

To prevent a dry crust from forming on the surface, pour h h tablespoon oil in the bottom of the bowl and roll the dough around in it to grease it all over. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for about 1 hours, until doubled in bulk. tablespoon oil in the bottom of the bowl and roll the dough around in it to grease it all over. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place for about 1 hours, until doubled in bulk.

Lahma bi Ajeen or Sfiha Meat Tarts Serves 3-6 * These famous "Arab pizzas" are traditionally made with bread dough rolled out extremely thin. Make them with the dough on page 137 and use one and a half times the amount of filling given here. Or use store-bought frozen pastry, as described below. It is not the same, but the result is equally delicious. Serve the tarts as an appetizer, or as a snack meal accompanied by thick strained yogurt and salad. * These famous "Arab pizzas" are traditionally made with bread dough rolled out extremely thin. Make them with the dough on page 137 and use one and a half times the amount of filling given here. Or use store-bought frozen pastry, as described below. It is not the same, but the result is equally delicious. Serve the tarts as an appetizer, or as a snack meal accompanied by thick strained yogurt and salad.

12 ounces frozen puff pastry, defrosted 1 egg white oil to grease the baking sheet FOR THE FILLING.

1 onion, grated or finely chopped in the food processor and drained of the juices -1 chili pepper, finely chopped 12 ounces ground lamb 4 ounces tomato paste ( of a small can) 2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice or 1 tablespoons pomegranate concentrate Salt and pepper Cut the puff pastry into 6 pieces and roll each out thinly on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin, cutting the corners so as to make rounds of about 7 inches in diameter. (This pastry shrinks quite a bit, and the tarts will turn out much smaller when baked.) Place the pastry rounds on oiled baking sheets or greaseproof or wax paper and brush the tops with half the egg white (this prevents the pastry from getting too soggy with juice). Bake them blind (without topping) in a preheated 450F oven for 10 minutes, until they puff up and are golden. Take them out, turn them over, brush the other side with the remaining egg white, and return to the oven for another 8 minutes, or until this side is crisp and lightly colored. Let them cool.

Mix all the filling ingredients (make sure the onion is drained of its juices) and work very well with your hands to a soft, well-blended paste. Take lumps of the meat mixture and spread thickly over each pastry round.

Place the filled tarts in the hot oven and bake 15 minutes.

Serve hot.

Variations * Omit the tomato paste and add cup chopped parsley and 3 tablespoons pine nuts to the filling.

* For delicious Lebanese sfiha sfiha, mix the meat and onion (strained of its juice) with cup yogurt, 2 tablespoons pomegranate concentrate, salt, pepper, and cup pine nuts, and omit the other filling ingredients.

Fatayer bi Sabanikh Spinach Pies Makes about 50 * These little triangular-shaped pies are a famous Lenten specialty of the Orthodox Christian communities of Syria and Lebanon. You can serve them hot or cold. They are meant to be tart and lemony. The filling must not be wet or the dough will get soft and will stick to the baking sheet and tear when it is baked. For this reason it is best to use frozen spinach, squeezed dry. These little triangular-shaped pies are a famous Lenten specialty of the Orthodox Christian communities of Syria and Lebanon. You can serve them hot or cold. They are meant to be tart and lemony. The filling must not be wet or the dough will get soft and will stick to the baking sheet and tear when it is baked. For this reason it is best to use frozen spinach, squeezed dry.

Pie dough (page 137) FOR THE FILLING.

2 pounds frozen leaf spinach, defrosted V4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 onion or 6 scallions, finely chopped 4 tablespoons sumac Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup pine nuts or coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts (optional) Salt and pepper Prepare the pie dough as described on page 137.

For the filling, put the spinach in a colander and press out the water, then squeeze the leaves between your palms to get rid of any remaining liquid. Coa.r.s.ely chip the spinach and mix in a bowl with the rest of the filling ingredients.

Punch down and knead the risen dough briefly. Divide into 4 or 6 b.a.l.l.s for easier handling. When rolling out one ball, keep the remaining ones wrapped in plastic.

Roll out each ball on a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, and keep turning over the dough and dusting underneath with flour so that it does not stick. Roll out as thinly as possible (the dough is very elastic and springs back). Cut the sheet into 1- to 2-inch rounds with a pastry cutter. Pick up the sc.r.a.ps, roll them into a ball, and roll out again to make more rounds, so as not to waste any dough. Take each round and roll out again, then pull out and stretch until it is paper-thin and about 3 to 3 h h inches in diameter. inches in diameter.

Another traditional way is to take walnut-sized lumps of dough, flatten them between your oiled palms, and pull and stretch the dough out as thinly as you can.

To make the pies, take each pastry round, lay it flat on one hand, and put a tablespoon of filling in the middle (1). Shape into the traditional 3-sided pyramid with a rounded base by lifting up 3 sides (with both hands) and bringing them together over the filling (2). Pinch the edges together, making thin, ridged joints in the shape of a 3-sided star and closing the pies (3). Place the pies on a lightly oiled baking sheet and press down a little to flatten their bases.

Bake in a preheated 450F oven for 10 minutes, or until golden.

Fatayer bi Jibn Cheese Pies Make as the preceding recipe, fatayer bi sa-banikh fatayer bi sa-banikh, but replace the spinach filling with 1 pound feta cheese mashed with a fork and mixed with a little pepper and 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil.

Fatayer bi Labneh Drained- Yogurt Pies Make as the preceding recipe, fatayer bi sa-banikh fatayer bi sa-banikh, but replace the spinach filling with yogurt that has been drained in a cloth until it is a soft creamy cheese (see page 112), mixed with salt, pepper, and a little grated onion.

Fatayer bi Hummus Chickpea Pie A Lebanese Lenten specialty is rounds of pie dough (page 137) rolled out thinly, with a handful of cooked chickpeas pressed in. Lebanese Lenten specialty is rounds of pie dough (page 137) rolled out thinly, with a handful of cooked chickpeas pressed in.

Ataif bi Jibn Pancakes Stuffed with Cheese This is a specialty of Syria, Lebanon, and Egypt. Sweet ataif ataif (pancakes) are extremely popular stuffed with nuts and soaked with syrup). These savory ones are less common. (pancakes) are extremely popular stuffed with nuts and soaked with syrup). These savory ones are less common.

Prepare ataif ataif, following the recipe on page 444, adding a little salt to the batter instead of sugar.

Fill with a small slice of halumi cheese or mozzarella, or feta cheese crumbled with a fork and mixed with a few finely chopped chives or mint leaves.

Put a heaping teaspoon of filling in the center of each little pancake, on the uncooked side. Fold the pancake over the filling to make a half-moon shape and seal the edges by pinching them together hard with your fingers. The soft, moist dough will stick together.

Deep-fry in hot oil until golden and drain on paper towels.

Serve hot.

Arais Bread Stuffed with Spiced Ground Meat Serves 6 * Lebanese restaurants serve these cut in wedges as appetizers. A whole bread accompanied by a salad makes a good snack meal. Use a thin type of Arab or pita bread with a pouch. * Lebanese restaurants serve these cut in wedges as appetizers. A whole bread accompanied by a salad makes a good snack meal. Use a thin type of Arab or pita bread with a pouch.

6 thin pita breads thin pita breads 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 pounds ground veal, beef, or lamb 1 chili pepper, finely chopped Salt and pepper teaspoon allspice 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 teaspoons sumac or the juice of lemon A good pinch of cayenne cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 4 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted 2 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter or extra-virgin olive oil Cut each pita on one side and open carefully without breaking the bread (warming it up makes this easier).

To make the filling, in a large skillet fry the onion in oil until golden. Add the meat and fry for about 10 minutes, stirring, crus.h.i.+ng, and turning it over, until it changes color. Add the chili pepper, season with salt and pepper, and stir in the spices and parsley. Spread a sixth of the filling into each bread, then press it closed. Brush with melted b.u.t.ter or oil and place on a sheet of foil under the broiler. Broil, turning over once, until both sides are lightly colored.

Cut in half and then into wedges if serving as an appetizer. Serve hot with lemon wedges.

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