Baraboo, Dells, and Devil's Lake Region Part 4

The young man died in his cottage in the early winter of 1895 and soon the project fell into decay. The observation tower, his home, the Marsh & Jackson Cottage, and the Coleman place became ruins.

Spring

Koshawagos Spring, some distance from the southwest corner of the lake, supplies the finest water in the whole locality. It takes its name from the Koshawagos Club House hard by, the word meaning "Men of the Valley."

The Indian Mounds

Besides the animal effigy on the north terminal moraine and the bird near the Kirkland Hotel, the following may be mentioned: a low mound west of the Cliff House site cut by the railroad: two linears about thirty rods to the west, one extending into the public road; and the Terminal Moraine group in front of the Claude Cottage. A bear effigy, a linear and still another effigy are quite plainly outlined while two others are almost obliterated.

Nestling near the west bluff is the late home of L. W. Claude, who came from Ambleside, England, to the Lake in pioneer times. The rugged beauty of the spot recalled the charm of his former home in the fascinating lake region and, with his family, he enjoyed the Lake for many years. The interesting home is now occupied by the family only during the summer seasons.

Much for the Beholder

These ragged rocks and towering cliffs are most overpowering when viewed from a boat coasting along the western sh.o.r.e of the lake.

An adequate description of this picturesque spot is not attempted here.

The life in the lake, the ferns and flowers on the slope, the fur-coated and feather-covered friends in the wood, as well as the charm of the Lake itself in its unusual environment, are left for the enjoyment of the visitor. Nor has anything been said of Indian legends which hover over the lofty crags and cling to the rocky sh.o.r.es.

"The mountain's wall in the water, It looks like a great blue cup, And the sky looks like another, Turned over, bottom side up."

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE DELLS AND MIRROR LAKE REGION]

CHAPTER IV

Wisconsin River Dells--Journey of Fascinating Scenery--Jefferson Davis--Belle Boyd, Rebel Spy

No portion of the Badger state is more widely known for scenic beauty than the Wisconsin River Dells. Each pa.s.sing year thousands of persons revel in the charm of this region, often remaining throughout the summer enjoying the hospitality of the city of Kilbourn, which is picturesquely located on the bank of the river. Here the stream has cut a great gorge through the sandstone rocks leaving wonderful castellated crags standing high on either side and fascinating niches below through which the water bubbles and boils in caldrons of solid rock. Shaded pathways invite the visitor to explore fern-hung nooks that hold especial interest for the botanist and the vari-colored sands and rocks possess unusual attractions for those interested in unique geological formations.

The Way From Baraboo

From Baraboo to the Dells, the way is over Trunk Line No. 12. The road first climbs the north range of the Baraboo Bluffs, then crosses Webster's Prairie, the terminal moraine, relic of the ice epoch, forming the sky-line along the way, less than a mile to the east. This extensive prairie, a veritable flower garden in the days before the first plow-share disturbed the soil, is the outwash from a wall of glacial ice that, during the ice epoch, extended for miles in a northerly and southerly direction near the site of the present highway.

It is now the center of a prosperous rural community.

The Marshall Farm

Some eight or nine miles distant from Baraboo, shortly before the road turns to the left, an interesting old residence is observed, The Elms, the home of the Marshall family, early residents of the Prairie. The place, which once included 1,476 acres, is owned by Judge R. D.

Marshall of Madison, for many years a member of the supreme court of the state. The acreage has been somewhat reduced in recent years.

From the Marshall farm the road pursues a winding way, crossing Dell Creek and pa.s.sing through the sequestered village of Delton where it turns abruptly to the right following an almost continuous avenue of pines into Kilbourn.

The Dells

The way to see the Dells is by boat. Throughout the entire length of the narrow pa.s.sage a fanciful nomenclature adds to the romantic character of the objects and places. Before the great dam was built at Kilbourn a number of peculiarly interesting points, now buried by the whirling waters, were exposed to view. The erection of the dam, although destroying these particular features, has added to the uniqueness of others, resulting as a whole in increased attractiveness for the Dells.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE NARROWS, DELLS OF THE WISCONSIN

One hundred feet deep. The river seems almost to be running on its edge hemmed in by ponderous rocks.

Courtesy Wisconsin Geological Survey]

The points of interest usually called to the attention of visitors by the guides follow:

Angel Rock on the right is a rugged projection, curiously shaped. The imagination will easily transform this lofty crag into a huge angel with outspread wings. It is sometimes called Marble Rock, from the rounded sandstone pebbles on the ledge and in the river.

The Swallow's Home is where the swallows live. During the nesting season thousands of these birds may be seen occupying innumerable holes in the side of the cliff.

The Jaws of the Dells, the entrance proper, are guarded by High Rock and Romance Cliff, two immense rocks standing as sentinels to the waterway.

Chimney Rock is one of nature's freaks, resembling a stick and mortar chimney of pioneer times. It was fas.h.i.+oned by the waters as they cut this wonderful gorge.

Echo cove is submerged.

Black Hawk's Head is another curious result of erosion.

Nothing but the site is left of the ancient and weathered Dell House, once a "wild, rambling old rookery." It was the first frame house built on the river above Portage, erected in 1837-38 by Robert V. Allen and used for many years as a tavern. Here the rivermen recounted their thrilling experiences in piloting their rafts through the Dells and told of the days in the pineries of pioneer Wisconsin.

Chapel Gorge is a beautifully shaped glen on the right, named for a peculiarly shaped rock at the entrance.

Boat Cave is submerged.

Circle Bend is a half-circle in the river, the cliff of solid masonry formed of rocks high and bold.

Sturgeon Rock resembles the fish by that name. It is located on the left at the entrance to the wild grandeur of the Dells.

The Navy Yard exhibits the geological formation of the Dells in the superlative degree. Huge vessels with prows and sides and ribs of solid stone, may be pictured without difficulty by the imagination, all warring with the waters of the narrows.

Opposite the Navy Yard is Eaton Grotto, a long deep opening in the face of the cliff.

Skylight Cave is submerged.

At the Narrows the river is only fifty-two feet wide, but over 80 feet deep. Here the stream runs on its edge, hemmed in by ponderous rocks.

In 1850 Schuyler S. Gates built a bridge over the stream at this place, the first ever thrown across the Wisconsin River. After thousands of teams and pa.s.sengers had paid toll, the high water of 1866 carried it away.

The Devil's Elbow marks the place where the stream makes a square turn as it enters the Narrows.

Black Hawk Cave on the left, so lingers a legend, is where the chief secreted himself after his disastrous war of 1832.

Notch Rock, near the water's edge, was the terror of raftsmen, more than one raft breaking up and more than one life being lost at this place.