Antigua and the Antiguans Volume II Part 6

had any effect upon his hardened heart-

"His soul was dark within; He lived but in the sound Of shamelessness and sin."

Many a minute stole away, and Cambridge (who had concealed himself in a cane-piece, bordering the road his intended victim must necessarily pa.s.s) kept his fatal stand. Not a sound was heard, save the evening breeze as it whispered among the long leaves of the sugar-cane, or the occasional croaking of some night reptile. At length, the tread of a horse's foot was heard, and warned the murderer to be upon his guard. Unconscious of the dreadful fate hanging over him, Mr. Brown rode slowly on, accompanied by a black boy, when, as he was pa.s.sing between two cane-pieces, just where the canes grew thick and high, with one bound the murderer was upon him. A heavy blow from the sharpened skimmer upon his head, stunned him; and ere a prayer could rise to his lips, his soul flew to meet his G.o.d, and his murderer was left standing alone, with the stain of human blood upon him.[26]

The boy who accompanied his unfortunate master was the nephew of the culprit; but as he was unperceived by Cambridge, he was enabled to make his escape into the cane-field, where he remained an unknown observer of the dreadful event. As soon as the murderer had quitted the spot, the boy hastened to the overseer's house (not far distant) and related to the inmates the fate of his master, and the name of his destroyer. An immediate alarm was given, and, guided by the boy, they quickly reached the scene of murder, where they discovered the unfortunate overseer, bereft of life, and presenting an appearance too horrible for description.

They then proceeded in quest of Cambridge, whom they found at his hut, with his blood-stained garments still upon him, and in the act of was.h.i.+ng his unhallowed hands.

After a coroner's inquest upon the body, and a verdict (according to the circ.u.mstances of the case) returned, Cambridge was conveyed to the capital, where he took his trial for murder. He was found guilty, and condemned to suffer death by hanging; and to make the punishment more impressive to others, he was ordered to be carried to Osborn's Pasture, in the vicinity of the spot where the murder was committed, and there to be hung and gibbeted.

Long did his whitened bones glisten in the moonbeams; and as the wind shook the chains which held the body, many a little negro who had strayed that way in search of guavas, fled from the spot, for fear of the "dead man's jumby."

About ten years ago, murder again stained the annals of Antigua.

The slayer was one of the softer s.e.x, and jealousy prompted her to the act. She broke into the house where her rival lived, and in her pa.s.sion at finding her husband an inmate of the dwelling, stabbed her who had destroyed her peace. The husband escaped by the window; and after the perpetration of the deed, the murderess obtained the a.s.sistance of some of her friends, and between them they dragged the body of the murdered woman to the beach, and threw it into the sea. Weights were attached to the feet of the corpse to make it sink; but they were either insufficient, or they became detached, and the body floated. A negro belonging to a neighbouring estate, who was out searching for stray cattle, discovered it among some mangrove trees, and gave the alarm, the deed was traced to the woman, and she was condemned to follow her victim to the "tribunal of the Just."

Since then, this offence has rarely been repeated; but some instances there have been since my residence in this country, where the demon Revenge has sealed and stamped them for his own, and instigated them to perpetrate crimes at which the soul revolts. A circ.u.mstance of this kind occurred in the year 1840. A black man, of the name of Joseph Gould, formerly belonging to the Rev. Mr. Gilbert, the descendant of the founder of Methodism in Antigua, was living in an unlawful state with a coloured girl, of whom he became jealous, and in consequence resolved to end her existence. The unfortunate woman was murdered in a very brutal manner, by means of a thick stick, which completely shattered the head, and scattered the brains; her fingers and part of her ears were then cut off, to secure the rings and earrings which she was too fond of wearing, and the body then flung into a cane-piece.

The dreadful effluvia first attracted notice; and after some search, the body was found. A woman came forward and related some circ.u.mstances which occurred upon the last evening the unfortunate girl was seen alive, which led to the apprehension of Gould. He was brought to trial,-the evidence was all circ.u.mstantial,-and after a patient investigation of the case, he was sentenced to transportation for life. It appears, however, that no opportunity has occurred of putting the sentence into effect, as he still remains an inmate of the gaol, where it is said he suffers the stings of a guilty conscience, which conjures up the shade of the murdered girl before him, soon as "evening gray" sets in. This is the last case of particular note which has stained the domestic pages of this pretty little island; and I do hope, that now education is so liberally tendered, the minds of all cla.s.ses may become enlightened, and this horrible crime become extinct.

Infanticide has also been too often perpetrated in Antigua, particularly since emanc.i.p.ation; although, it is true, it does not prevail to the extent it does in that "emporium of the world"

-London. It is one of those unnatural offences which shews too clearly our fallen state. "Can a woman forget her sucking child?"

is asked by the inspired Book; and then, as if the sad reality of what human nature is capable of is remembered, it is added, yes, "She may forget!" And, alas! those words have indeed proved true: the mother has indeed forgotten to have compa.s.sion upon the helpless little being which has derived its existence from herself.

In the days of slavery, the negroes were not allowed by law to marry; the union between them in most cases lasting only so long as agreeable to themselves. From this cause, it was frequent to find a family of eight or nine children, who all owned, perhaps, different fathers. This the woman considered no disgrace, and consequently had no incentive to disguise the fact by destroying the child. The case, however, is now different with many. Since schools have been established in this country for the benefit of the negroes, it has been the constant aim of the parents, in most cases, to avail themselves of the privilege, by sending their children to receive instruction. So far all is well; I am a great advocate for the spread of education among the lower cla.s.ses, and think not, with some, that the withholding knowledge from them is the only security for obedience. "If ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise," says one, whose name stands high in the rolls of literary fame; and those who would wish to debar the poor from receiving the instruction tendered at the different free-schools &c. are apt to take this sentence as their motto, without answering the question it undoubtedly implies, "where _is_ ignorance bliss?" It is good when the labourer feels his want of learning, and strives to obtain for his children the boon which has been denied his own youth. But the great evil which is likely to ensue in this island, from this liberal gift of education, until the negroes become more wise, is in this-when they send their children, particularly their daughters, to a school where they are taught to read and write, &c., they fancy that any kind of servitude will be a degradation to them; and consequently every means in their power are tried to bring them up as _ladies_, that is, to sit in the house all day, although, for a remuneration, they will condescend to do a certain portion of needlework for any one who may require it; or else to get them appointed teacher in some of the infant schools upon the several estates. These "young ladies" of course lay aside the ancient fas.h.i.+on of tying their heads with many-coloured handkerchiefs, and wear bonnets instead; and that everything may appear in a proper light, whatever follies or errors they may commit, they endeavour to screen as far as lies in their power. It is princ.i.p.ally among this cla.s.s of persons, then, that the crime of infanticide is to be found: to preserve their own character in the eyes of the world, they add to their former error the heavier guilt of murder; and without one pang of remorse, expose to the hungry dogs the little innocent they ought to have guarded with double care, as they had already deeply injured it by denying it a father's protection. Several instances of this kind have lately occurred within a short period; but the subject is so revolting to the sensitive mind, that we will banish any further mention of it from these pages.

In the list of higher offences, incendiarism must be noticed, which has been frequently practised by the negroes to carry out their plans of revenge. Before emanc.i.p.ation, as well as at the present period, the horizon has been frequently illuminated with the glare of an incendiary fire. We have already seen, in the year 1831, how much the negroes resented the abolition of their Sunday markets, by scattering abroad that devastating element; and within a few weeks ago, a case of arson occurred in the capital, which might have proved very fatal in its consequence.

A highly respectable inhabitant of Antigua, had, with his family, retired for the night, perfectly unconscious of harm. Who would not think himself safe within the precincts of his own home?- where but in that fortress would we look for rest? Alas! that human depravity should rage to such an extent that, even in our own domestic circle, revenge, that deadly "upas," should spring up, to destroy, with its poisonous exhalation, that great blessing, family peace! A few words between the servants of the establishment and their employer led, it is supposed, to the event, which, had it not been fortunately discovered, might have hurried a whole family into eternity by one of the most dreadful deaths.

On the night in question, a female inmate of his house was unable to sleep, and after tossing about for some time with a degree of feverish irritation, her sense of smelling was considerably annoyed by what appeared to be the smouldering of burning cloth.

Awaking the rest of the family, she communicated to them her alarm, and on proceeding to the staircase to ascertain the cause, it was found to be completely enveloped in smoke. Making their way down with precipitation, a sofa was discovered to be in flames, which, with some difficulty, was extinguished, and once more the family prepared to seek their respective chambers. As, however, they proceeded to the staircase for that purpose, a lambent line of light was perceived to issue from a small closet under the stairs, and upon opening the door, it was found to be in a blaze, and small billets of wood, coals, and other combustibles, heaped together amid the pile of table-linen, silver, &c., which the place contained. A reward of one hundred pounds sterling has been offered by the owner for the purpose of discovering the offender, but nothing has been elicited which could lead to the apprehension of the miscreant, who, for the gratification of an evil pa.s.sion, would have so heartlessly injured those who never offended. It appears strange that the legislature should have taken no notice of this wilful deed (which might once more have spread the horrors of a conflagration throughout the town) by increasing the reward offered; it must have been a great oversight on their part, as their own safety might depend upon it; for if the perpetrators of the deed remain unknown, and consequently unpunished, who can say where the evil may end?

From taking a short glance at incendiarism, the next point to be considered is polygamy-and here, again, we see the demoralizing effects of slavery. It has been before remarked that there was no legal marriage rite for slaves, such unions being merely transitory. It is true by what has been called the "Melioration Act," rewards were held out to such slaves who should preserve their fidelity in such contracts; and those persons who had the management of negroes were forbidden to encourage immorality among the women by their own example. But, alas for Antigua! when were these regulations put in force? No European can imagine to what extent such vices were carried in former days, vices which will still be painfully felt by society for many, many years to come-at any rate, until this generation shall have pa.s.sed away; and, even then, the plague-spot will, perhaps, shew its taint.

When the light of day began to dawn upon this benighted part of the globe by the introduction of Christianity among the negroes, they were encouraged by the Moravians and Methodists to choose a partner from among the other s.e.x, and, in the face of the congregation, vow to each other fidelity and love. Although, of course, such marriages were not held binding by law, it was hoped that it would in some measure check the increase of immorality; and, in some instances, it might have done so, but the greater part violated those vows without compunction, or held them only until a fresh object gained their attention. It has been frequently known for a man thus married to maintain his wife and his mistress in the same house, which arrangement occasioned frequent domestic broils; and in such cases, the man, being applied to as umpire, has settled the dispute by remarking to his mistress, "That she must not quarrel with her companion, who was _his wife_, and that if she did, he would turn her away;" and then, addressing the aggrieved wife, tell her, for her consolation, "That she must not mind, because she was his _wife already!_"

After the negroes were freed from the thrall of slavery in 1834, and the same privileges open to them as to the rest of the British subjects, it was their pride to be married at the established church. In many instances, they had been already joined by the Moravian or Methodist preachers, but wis.h.i.+ng to get rid of their partners, who had borne with them the brunt of slavery, they privately paid their addresses to some of the young ladies already mentioned, carried them to the altar, and there married in direct opposition to their former vows, which were as binding and sacred in the eyes of G.o.d as if his grace the Archbishop of Canterbury had p.r.o.nounced the nuptial benediction.

Among such an immense number of negroes, it is almost impossible to discover the offenders in this respect against common decency, although the clergymen are generally indefatigable in their exertions to discover the truth. Still, vigilant as they are, they have been deceived; and instances are known, where parties have been twice married, even in the episcopal church. In some cases, a wedding-party have a.s.sembled within the sacred walls, the intended bride and bridegroom waiting at the altar until the lips of the presiding minister shall have made them one; when, as that solemn charge has been given, "If either of you know any impediment why ye may not be lawfully joined together in matrimony, ye do now confess it," those important words, "I do,"

have been suddenly heard, and (as in most cases) a female has come forward declaring that herself and the guilty beau had been long ago married at the chapel. When such circ.u.mstances have occurred, and the clergyman refused to re-marry them, it has been no unfrequent practice for the parties to embark on board a small vessel, and proceeding to Monserrat, or some other island, there to procure the completion of their unhallowed purpose.

Another evil to be deplored is, that even when parties are lawfully joined in the bands of wedlock, they pay such little regard to the solemnity of the act. The smart dresses, (for which often they commit an unlawful deed,) the plentiful breakfast, or lunch, the gilded cake, and the driving about in borrowed gigs, is much more thought of by them than the serious, the important promise of loving one another in sickness and in health, and, forsaking all others, cleave only unto them who, by the ordinances of G.o.d and man, are made one flesh. From this want of regard to the serious part of the ceremony, great mischief ensues. As soon as the novelty has worn off, the husband forgets the wife he ought to cherish, and the wife forgets his honour which she is bound to protect. The old leaven cleaves about them, and throwing off all shame, they follow the bad example of their parents, (who indeed are less faulty than themselves, not having had such means of instruction;) and by these means, give to the country, instead of an honest peasantry, a race of idle illegitimate children. I would by no means take upon myself to state, that of the many weddings which weekly take place among this "sober-hued" people, none remember to keep their marriage-vows unstained; on the contrary, no doubt many find it what it should be-a state "ordained for the mutual society, help, and comfort, that the one ought to have of the other, both in prosperity and adversity."

[26] The negroes say that no gra.s.s has ever grown in the spot where the blood dropped since the time of the murder.

CHAPTER x.x.xVII.

Negroes: A little change for the better-"Shadows nursed by night retire"-Respect to age-Filial affection-Generosity-Their kindness to the poorer cla.s.s of whites-Cleanliness-the opposite vice-Behaviour at church-A black exhorter-Reading and writing- An anecdote.

I am happy to find that at length I have got over the most prominent vices of the negroes. I must say I have a great love for my species, of whatever shade they may be, and I would at any time rather have to paint their virtues than their vices. But, alas for human nature! the latter are by far the most numerous, or else "men's _evil_ manners live in _bra.s.s_, their _virtues_ we write in _water_." To relieve ourselves for a little from the dreadful deeds of blood which have so lately engaged our attention, let us turn from the "shadows," and try to pick out of the negro character something a little pleasanter-something which, if we are forbidden to term virtues, we may, at least, give them the appellation of good qualities.

In pursuance of our plan, I think we may mention filial affection, and the respect they pay it. It is but seldom that a child will behave ill to its parent; on the contrary, they generally do for them whatever lies in their power. Age, too, is particularly venerated; and the noisy little negroes at their sport will stop while one of their old people are pa.s.sing, with "How d'ye, marm?" and "How d'ye, me pic'nee?" is the courteous reply. Generosity may also be mentioned among the "lights" of their character. When they see one of their own cla.s.s in distress, they generally relieve them to the extent of their ability, and to their sorrows turn a listening ear. When any of their friends or relatives die, they commonly have some little offering to make to a.s.sist in defraying the expenses of the funeral. Sometimes they will carry a bottle of wine or porter- sometimes bread and cheese, or a few biscuits, &c.; but however small the article is, it is always gratefully received, for this feasting at a funeral is as necessary to their idea of etiquette as giving the corpse a shroud or a coffin.

Nor do negroes always confine their generosity to their own colour, of which I can give a striking example. It is true, it does not much concern either "Antigua" or "the Antiguans," but I have already apologized for wandering out of my path, and this comes so _apropos_, that I cannot refrain from mentioning it. In the course of my peregrinations through different parts of the world, it has been my fate to meet with many deplorable objects- the half-starved diseased negroes-the dirty emaciated North American Indians, and their miserable squaws, (as they term their wives,) suffering from the effects of the alcohol they purchase from their white brethren at the expense of their domestic joys- the ragged, quarrelsome "wild Irish," "the finest _pisantry_ in the world," in their own estimation-the deformed and almost naked beggars of England; but in all my travels I never saw so truly wretched a cla.s.s, taking them altogether, as the poor white inhabitants of Barbados. I never shall forget the appearance they presented to my eyes upon my first visit to "Little England," as the Barbadians in their pride call their pleasant little island.

From the intense heat of the sun, and their constant exposure to its rays, their complexions are changed from a natural white to a fiery red. The women allow their long hair to float all down their backs, and be blown about by every zephyr. This may sound very pretty in poetry, but it is anything but pretty in _real life_, particularly when we take into consideration the colour and state of these locks; the fervent kisses of the "great luminary" has changed them into the appearance of dirty flax, while their disordered and matted condition brings the idea forcibly to your mind, that they have seldom, if ever, undergone the ordeal of "brush and comb." With respect to their persons, they are, generally, almost in a state of nudity, or their dress is put on in such a manner that it leaves you with that impression; no shoes or stockings envelope their feet, while their meagre, attenuated forms altogether produce an effect which no pen can accurately describe.

The men look even worse than the women, for to their squalid appearance they add the air of a "Regent-street lounger." Their castors stand in great want of "Rowland's Maca.s.sar," as well as Dr. Winn's "true anticardiam," which engages to make _old_ articles look like _new_; the original size has gradually diminished until it is almost insufficient to cover their pericranium, while the form beats in distortion those to be daily seen in the shop-windows of "Lloyd." This _elegant_ article of dress is placed upon _one side_ of the head, while on the other protrudes a huge ma.s.s of disordered hair. With regard to the other articles of clothing, they bear anything but the marks of taste, their coats being generally "out at elbows," and partly devoid of collars, their trousers reaching about half down their legs, and the use of shoes and stockings dispensed with; a short stick denominated a "two _foot_ two" swings from their hands, and then the costume is complete. Their houses are as dirty as their persons, and from their incurable habits of idleness, starvation is often their fate. To these poor unfortunates, the Barbadian negroes are known to step forth as their guardian angels; they will work for them, feed them, clothe them, and often shelter them from the weather, and all this is done without the slightest wish or prospect of receiving remuneration; their generosity in some instances knows no bounds, and they will attend to their every want with the kindness and affection of a parent. Although we have no such miserable objects in Antigua, still I am persuaded that, were it the case, the negroes of this island would not be behind their Barbadian brethren in these acts of charity; for whenever any European sailors get out of employ, and wander about the streets in a state of misery, (although brought on by their own misdemeanour in most instances,) the Antiguan negroes extend to them their bounty, taking them to their houses and giving them food, and not unfrequently small sums of money.

Next to generosity, cleanliness (in most instances) may be ranked among their good qualities. Those who have any regard to appearance make frequent use of water, which, in this climate, is particularly conducive to good health; and they are careful to make their children follow their example in this particular. In their houses they are also very cleanly, and their culinary articles are kept with the greatest care. They are very fond of sending presents of eatables to their acquaintance, (such as portions of their breakfast or dinner, &c., particularly house-servants;) and when this is the case, they always pay some regard to appearance. A clean white towel is wrapt round it, whatever the viands may be; and if soup forms a part, it is sure to be sent in a smart-coloured cup, with a cover. Sundays are the princ.i.p.al days on which such presents are sent; and an observer may often catch the little messengers peeping into the utensil which contains the savoury mess, or tasting it, by inserting one or more of their fingers, at the hazard of receiving a flogging, should the tidings reach the donor's ears.

It must, however, be allowed, that all negroes are not celebrated for their purity of habits; on the contrary, there are many exceptions among the indolent, and these present an appearance painful to behold. Among the men, all the money they can procure is spent upon that plague of the West Indies, "new rum;"

consequently, what they wear is of no importance to them. They are, indeed, in a state bordering upon nakedness; and the filthy manner in which they keep their persons renders them disgusting in the extreme. A small insect, which is called a _chegoe_, or, as the negroes express it, "jigger," gets into their feet; and if not extracted in time, makes its nest and breeds in the flesh.

The dirty and indolent beings I am now describing allow these insects to breed so fast, and remain until they attain to such a size, that it is impossible for them to be taken out; and the consequence is, they feed upon the flesh, until the feet are in such a state, that they are often obliged to suffer amputation as far as the knee. Again-the dirt which they allow to remain upon them for so long a time, produces various horrible complaints, which, in the end, also call for the knife of the surgeon. This latter cla.s.s of persons meet with the abhorrence of all their tribe, who never fail to express their contempt whenever they meet; and was it not for the humane conduct of the Rev. R.

Holberton, (whose name must often occur in "Antigua and the Antiguans,") by seeking them out, and getting them admitted into the lazaretto, (which owes its origin to his exertions,) many must expire in the open roads.

But to return to the good qualities of the negroes. Another thing worthy of remark is, the quiet and decorous manner in which they behave in a place of wors.h.i.+p. Upon my first arrival in this country, I was particularly pleased with the conduct of the black congregation at the episcopal church. Not the least noise was to be heard-only the voice of the preacher, and the deep, and apparently heartfelt responses of the people; and during the sermon, the dropping of a pin upon the floor could have been heard, so silent and motionless were they. At particular parts of the service, all were kneeling, with the _appearance_ of the deepest humility. Nearly all the negroes belong to one sect or the other, and keep the outward ordinances of religion with exactness. They all talk of the goodness of G.o.d, of their own unworthiness, and their hopes of salvation, &c.; but, alas! among many of them, these are words _only_, as far as their general conduct leads us to conclude. There are others, however, who appear to have benefited by the instructions of their pastors, conducting themselves in a praiseworthy manner, thus giving encouragement to the missionaries,[27] who must feel richly rewarded for their exertions in behalf of this benighted cla.s.s, and for being made, under the hand of the Almighty, the honoured instruments of s.n.a.t.c.hing them as so many "brands from the burning."

Among the higher order of negroes who have joined respective sects are many who at times officiate as _parsons_ when those of the "cloth" are absent. They bury the dead, (that is, when such event takes place in the country,) read prayers to the sick, or pray extemporaneously, (which is most frequent,) and sometimes preach in the country chapels. I have heard an anecdote related of one of these kind of parsons, who used to be very fond of giving an oration at the grave; or, to shew forth his skill in reading to the astonished mult.i.tude, favoured them with a portion from some of his favourite authors. On one occasion, when a minister was about to inter a friend of this black preacher, he asked permission to read an exhortation after the funeral service was performed. This request was immediately granted; and, accordingly, he proceeded to his house, which was near the place of burial, for his books. It took him some time to collect them together, so extensive was his library; at length this important exploit was effected, and he left his house, armed with folios, quartos, and octavos, and proceeded to the grave. To his great surprise, upon his arrival, he found the funeral over, the minister gone, and the mourners dispersed; so, like poor Dominie Sampson, he had to shoulder his volumes and return also.

Perhaps it may afford matter of surprise to some of my readers to hear that the negroes of former days could read or write; but although slave-owners in general opposed the system of opening the book of knowledge to their slaves, it is to the honour of Antigua that she has been the most forward in pursuing a contrary line of conduct, and allowing her negroes the privilege of being taught those necessary qualifications. I am again referring to those dark days of slavery when the negroes were looked upon as little better than cattle; but in this part of my subject, I cannot help remarking what a difference a few years has made with regard to the instruction of the blacks. In former days, as above alluded to, the negroes were purposely kept in ignorance both of spiritual and worldly knowledge; all attempts to inform them were decidedly against the wishes of the proprietors, (I am now speaking of the West Indies generally,) who thought it one step towards insurrection. From this state of darkness and bad policy Antigua was about the first to awake; her efforts were at first but very slow, and her plans but half formed. But now the case is very different: schools abound in all parts of the island, both for young people and adults; there is not a negro who cannot obtain instruction if he wishes, and among the young there are none but the very worthless who cannot read. In the statistical part of this work will be found the number of schools, what sects they belong to, and also the number of children; but besides these, there are a great many private schools where the little black boys and girls who attend are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic. The Wesleyans were the first who inst.i.tuted these schools; they were followed by the Moravians; and upon the appointment of a bishop to this diocese, the church followed their example.

Among the children who are instructed in these various schools, many of them can read fluently, write a good hand, and cast up an account with correctness; but with regard to those who gained their learning at an earlier date, very much cannot be said for their chirography. I have seen some of their writing, however, which is very pa.s.sable, while others, again, presented the appearance of complete hieroglyphics, and which I should as soon think of interpreting as the characters on the tomb of "Cheops,"

or a Chinese ma.n.u.script. An anecdote is related of a person whose name was Mac Namara; he was considered a superior kind of man for his line, but was not much of a penman, his writing being chiefly confined to the signing his own name. One day, his signature was required in some haste, and taking the pen in hand, he commenced "Macnamamamama," till at length, turning to some person who stood near him, "Brother," says he, "tell me when me done; here, don't you think it looks long enough?." It was his custom, it appears, when signing his name, to look more to the _length_ than the spelling, but being rather flurried on this day, he exceeded his usual limit.

[27] I include under this term the very zealous and worthy preachers of the Wesleyan sect, and the kind-hearted Moravians, as well as the established clergy.

CHAPTER x.x.xVIII.

Negroes: Their amus.e.m.e.nts-Natural ear for music-Singing-Dancing -Subscription routs-Christmas b.a.l.l.s-The ball-room decorations- Ball dresses-Gentlemen's appearance-Ladies'-Politeness-Supper, and the supper-table-The morning after a ball-Cards of invitation-The "good night."

We have now to mention the amus.e.m.e.nts of the negroes, and their conduct in their hours of recreation. The blacks have a remarkable ear for music, and consequently are particularly fond of singing. Indeed, they can hardly do anything without "forming their voice to melody." The sailors, when heaving an anchor, have a peculiar song which they sing in chorus, pulling the cable at the same time. When moving their houses, (which it is customary to do in this part of the world,[28]) another ditty is requisite; and even if you get them to lift any article which obliges them to use a little exertion, a song must accompany the action. Most of these songs are extempore, and are sung to some favourite tune, the poetry being generally a species of parody, or else a ludicrous composition upon some person who may have attracted their attention, either by a peculiarity in dress or manners; and it is surprising how soon the whole tribe learn it. Some negroes have a clear, sweet, and powerful voice, while others again resemble the screech of a pair of bagpipes, or give the idea of a parrot warbling an Italian air. The black boys are nearly all good whistlers, and some of them will go through, with correctness, many of our best airs, with variations. They are also great psalm-singers, the streets often resounding with this peculiar species of harmony.

Next to singing, their favourite pastime is, to "trip the light fantastic toe," and at this sport they are indefatigable. These dancing parties are differently conducted; at some are danced quadrilles! (I am not aware if the gallopades and Mazurka have found their way into these _coteries_ at present, but as all negroes are great sticklers for fas.h.i.+on, I suppose they have,) at others only country dances and reels are introduced; while the Africans are content with their own native dance, and their music of the _Bangoe_ and _Tum-tum_. Christmas is the princ.i.p.al season for these a.s.semblies, although there are subscription b.a.l.l.s held once or twice a week in some of the small houses at the back of the town. These meetings may be very agreeable to the negroes, but they are anything but agreeable to those unfortunates who may chance to inhabit houses in the vicinity. Little or no sleep will visit their eyes upon those nights dedicated to gay Terpsich.o.r.e, and they may be led to misquote Shakspeare, and say, "_Dancing_ murders sleep." The music generally consists of a squeaking fiddle, a tamborine, (upon which they have a peculiar way of performing,) and a triangle, played without any regard to time or melody. The worst characters frequent these houses, and the refreshments are always levied by contributions upon the public.

Some of the Christmas b.a.l.l.s (or as it is the fas.h.i.+on now to term them, "quadrille parties") are, however, conducted upon a very grand scale. The ball-room is decorated with branches of the cocoa-nut, interspersed with the many beautiful flowers which, in these sunny climes, grow in such wild profusion, while boughs of the Pimento (or "Christmas bush," as it is generally called in this country) and the orange tree, loaded with its tempting fruit, impart a pleasing fragrance throughout the apartment.