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461*). An infusion of the above in vinegar or wine makes a good relis.h.i.+ng sauce, but the flavour is best when made with fresh-gathered herbs, as directed in No. 397.
_Obs._ This composition of the fine aromatic herbs is an invaluable acquisition to the cook in those seasons or situations when fresh herbs cannot be had; and we prefer it to the ragout powder, No. 457: it impregnates sauce, soup, &c. with as much relish, and renders it agreeable to the palate, and refreshes the gustatory nerves, without so much risk of offending the stomach, &c.
_Soup-herb and Savoury Powder, or Quintessence of Ragout._--(No. 460.)
Take three parts of soup-herb powder (No. 459) to one part of savoury powder, No. 457.
_Obs._ This agreeable combination of the aromatic spices and herbs should be kept ready prepared: it will save a great deal of time in cooking ragouts, stuffings, forcemeat-b.a.l.l.s, soups, sauces, &c.; kept dry, and tightly corked down, its fragrance and strength may be preserved undiminished for some time.
N.B. Three ounces of the above will impregnate a quart of vinegar or wine with a very agreeable relish.
_To Dry sweet and savoury Herbs._--(No. 461.)
For the following accurate and valuable information, the reader is indebted to Mr. BUTLER, herbalist and seedsman (opposite Henrietta Street), Covent Garden market.
"It is very important to those who are not in the constant habit of attending the markets to know when the various seasons commence for purchasing sweet herbs.
"All vegetables are in the highest state of perfection, and fullest of juice and flavour, just before they begin to flower: the first and last crop have neither the fine flavour, nor the perfume of those which are gathered in the height of the season; that is, when the greater part of the crop of each species is ripe.
"Take care they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better colour when dried. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt and dust;[291-*] cut off the roots; separate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such quant.i.ties at a time, that the process may be speedily finished; _i. e._ 'Kill 'em quick,' says a great botanist; by this means their flavour will be best preserved: there can be no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs, &c. hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by the heat of the sun. In the application of artificial heat, the only caution requisite is to avoid burning; and of this a sufficient test is afforded by the preservation of the colour." The common custom is, when they are perfectly dried to put them in bags, and lay them in a dry place; but the best way to preserve the flavour of aromatic plants is to pick off the leaves as soon as they are dried, and to pound them, and put them through a hair-sieve, and keep them in well-stopped bottles.[291-+] See No. 459.
Basil is in the best state for drying from the middle of August, and three weeks after, see No. 397.
Knotted marjoram, from the beginning of July, and during the same.
Winter savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout August, see _Obs._ to No. 397.
Summer savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout August.
Thyme, lemon-thyme, orange-thyme,[291-++] during June and July.
Mint, latter end of June, and during July, see No. 398.
Sage, August and September.
Tarragon, June, July, and August, see No. 396.
Chervil, May, June, and July, see No. 264.
Burnet, June, July, and August, see No. 399.
Parsley, May, June, and July, see N.B. to No. 261.
Fennel, May, June, and July.
Elder flowers, May, June, and July.
Orange flowers, May, June, and July.
N.B. Herbs nicely dried are a very acceptable subst.i.tute when fresh ones cannot be got; but, however carefully dried, the flavour and fragrance of the fresh herbs are incomparably finer.
THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE.--(No. 462.)
This is a convenient auxiliary to the cook: it may be arranged as a pyramidical _epergne_ for a dormant in the centre of the table, or as a travelling store-chest.
The following sketch will enable any one to fit up an a.s.sortment of flavouring materials according to their own fancy and palate; and, we presume, will furnish sufficient variety for the amus.e.m.e.nt of the gustatory nerves of a thorough-bred _grand gourmand_ of the first magnitude (if Cayenne and garlic have not completely consumed the sensibility of his palate), and consists of a "SAUCE-BOX," containing four eight-ounce bottles,[292-*] sixteen four ounce, and eight two-ounce bottles:--
1. Pickles.
2. Brandy.
3. Curacoa (No. 474).
4. Syrup (No. 475).
5. Salad sauce (Nos. 372 and 453).
6. Pudding catchup (No. 446).
7. Sauce superlative, or double relish (No. 429).
8. Walnut pickle.
9. Mushroom catchup (No. 439).
10. Vinegar.
11. Oil.
12. Mustard (see Nos. 370 and 427).
13. Salt (see No. 371).
14. Curry powder (No. 455).
15. Soy (No. 436).
16. Lemon-juice.
17. Essence of anchovy (No. 433).
18. Pepper.
19. Cayenne (No. 405, or No. 406).
20. Soup-herb powder (No. 459).
21. Ragout powder (No. 457).
22. Pease powder (No. 458).
23. Zest (No. 255).
24. Essence of celery (No. 409).
25. Sweet herbs (No. 419).
26. Lemon-peel (No. 408).
27. Eschalot wine (No. 402).
28. Powdered mint.
_In a drawer under._
Half a dozen one ounce bottles.
Weights and scales.
A graduated gla.s.s measure, divided into tea- and table-spoons.
Corkscrew.
Nutmeg-grater.
Table and tea-spoon.
Knife and fork.