Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking Part 19

1 pint Black Mission figs, halved cup dry red wine cup fresh orange juice cup granulated sugar 1 small cinnamon stick 2 cloves 1 teaspoons Demerara sugar or Sugar-in-the-Raw teaspoon Maldon or other flaky sea salt Preheat the oven to 375F.

Put the figs cut side up in a small roasting pan or baking dish that holds them snugly in a single layer.

Combine the wine, orange juice, granulated sugar, and spices in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Pour the wine over the figs and roast for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the Demerara sugar and salt over the figs and roast for 5 more minutes, or until the figs are tender and slightly puffed. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled. (The figs can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.) (The figs can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.)

BURN, BABY, BURN: THE ZEN OF CARAMELThe challenge of getting caramel to just the right point is to stop staring at it as it cooks: leave it alone, and then catch it at just the right moment-it waits for no one! This is our easy, fussproof method.

Mix the sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with just enough water to make an evenly moistened "wet sand." Try not to splash sugar onto the sides of the pan, as it could crystallize during cooking, and add a tablespoon of corn syrup for anti-crystallization insurance if you like. If you are cooking more than a small amount of sugar, set a lid or a metal bowl over the pan: the condensation created by the lid will wash down any sugar on the sides of the pan, preventing it from crystallizing. Keep an eye on the color of the cooking sugar; when it turns light brown, remove the lid or bowl, if using, and gently swirl the pan to keep the caramel cooking evenly. To obtain a very deep, complex caramel flavor, the caramel should be dark brown, with tiny bubbles gradually changing to slow thick ones, and, eventually, smoke rising from the pan. Now it is time to act fast! Remove the pan from the heat and immediately but carefully whisk in the liquid you are using in the recipe to stop the caramel from cooking any further. Be careful, as the mixture will bubble up. Return the pan to gentle heat if necessary to dissolve any hardened caramel, stirring until it melts, then remove from the heat.

Black & White Coppetta SERVES 6 PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO.

This is our variation on the familiar chocolate/vanilla combination, with a tangy creme fraiche and caramel crema and the crunch and appealing bitterness of hazelnut croccante.

3 cups Milk Chocolate Chip Gelato (Gelato & Sorbetto) Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows) 2 cups Caramel Crema (Gelato & Sorbetto) Hazelnut Croccante for garnish (Gelato & Sorbetto) Divide the gelato among six sundae dishes or bowls. Drizzle with the chocolate sauce and top with the caramel crema. Garnish with the croccante.

CHOCOLATE SAUCE.

MAKES A GENEROUS 1 CUP.

5 ounces extra bittersweet chocolate (75%), finely chopped cup sugar cup water cup heavy cream Put the chopped chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl.

Combine the sugar and water in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring until the sugar is evenly moistened. Cook over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionaly, until the caramel is a golden amber color.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cream; the mixture will bubble up. Return the pan to low heat and stir to dissolve any hardened caramel.

Pour the caramel cream over the chocolate and stir to melt the chocolate thoroughly. (The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; reheat in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water before serving.) (The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; reheat in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water before serving.)

VARIATION: CHOCOLATE ROSEMARY SAUCE.

When steeping an herb in hot cream, it is important to keep the liquid uncovered; covering the pan would cause the herb to discolor and wilt, which can ruin the flavor.

Bring the cream to a simmer in a small saucepan. Add 1 fresh rosemary sprig, remove from the heat, and allow to steep, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Remove the rosemary, and proceed as directed.

CARAMEL CREMA.

MAKES 4 CUPS.

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons water 2 cups heavy cream 5 large egg yolks Pinch of salt vanilla bean, split, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Combine 1 1/3 cup of the sugar and the water in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring to moisten the sugar evenly. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved, then cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is a dark, slightly smoky brown. cup of the sugar and the water in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring to moisten the sugar evenly. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved, then cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is a dark, slightly smoky brown.

Immediately remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour in the heavy cream (the mixture will bubble up). Return the pan to the heat and stir to dissolve the hardened caramel. Remove from the heat.

Whisk the egg yolks, the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot caramel cream, then return the mixture to the saucepan, add the vanilla bean, if using, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatprool bowl. Stir in the vanilla extract, if using. Chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

When ready to serve, transfer half of the crema to a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer at high speed just until it holds stiff peaks. (This recipe makes more crema than you will need for 6 coppette, but the extra crema will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator; use it to top gelato or ice cream or even fruit. (This recipe makes more crema than you will need for 6 coppette, but the extra crema will keep for up to a week in the refrigerator; use it to top gelato or ice cream or even fruit.)

HAZELNUT CROCCANTE.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS.

1 cups (7 ounces) hazelnuts About 2 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil or mild olive oil 1 cups sugar cup water cup corn syrup 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Rounded teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt One 1-inch-thick lemon slice Preheat the oven to 350F.

Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast for about 20 minutes, until deep golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and grease the paper generously with the oil. Brush or rub an offset spatula or a wooden spoon with oil.

Coa.r.s.ely chop the hazelnuts.

Combine the sugar, water, corn syrup, and b.u.t.ter in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is amber brown.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the baking soda and salt. Using the offset spatula (or spoon), quickly stir in the nuts until they are thoroughly coated. Spread the mixture on the parchment-lined baking sheet and use the lemon slice to spread and flatten the brittle. Let cool completely.

Break or cut the croccante into small pieces. (Extra croccante keeps in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.) (Extra croccante keeps in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

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Olive Oil Coppetta SERVES 6 PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO.

We serve a different seasonal coppetta featuring our olive oil gelato all year round, using tart, acidic flavors to counterbalance the fat and salt that are prominent features of the gelato. This is our early summer version, which highlights our local Tristar strawberries.

3 cups Olive Oil Gelato (Gelato & Sorbetto) About 1 cups Pa.s.sion Fruit Granita (Gelato & Sorbetto) Basil Syrup for drizzling (recipe follows) Macerated Strawberries (recipe follows) Extra virgin olive oil (use the same oil you used for the gelato) Maldon or other flaky sea salt Divide the gelato among six sundae dishes or bowls and shave the granita over it. Drizzle the syrup over the coppette, and spoon the strawberries over the top. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a few flakes of Maldon salt.

BASIL SYRUP.

MAKES CUP.

cup tightly packed fresh basil leaves cup corn syrup Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Meanwhile, prepare an ice bath. Stir the basil leaves into the boiling water and blanch for 15 seconds. Drain the basil in a strainer, chill in the ice bath, and drain well.

Squeeze the basil between your hands to remove all excess moisture. Transfer to a blender, add the corn syrup, and blend to a smooth green liquid. Let stand for 30 minutes.