Winter Gatherings Part 3

- 2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450F. Stand the roast, bone side down, in a roasting pan. Roast for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350F. Continue roasting for 1 hour more. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450F. Stand the roast, bone side down, in a roasting pan. Roast for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350F. Continue roasting for 1 hour more.

- 3. Remove the roast in the pan from the oven. Spread the mustard over the top of the roast. Mix the bread crumbs and blue cheese together in a small bowl. Press the crumb mixture in a layer over the mustard. Return to the oven and roast until the crust is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 130F for medium-rare meat. (If the crust has browned before the roast is cooked to the desired temperature, tent the roast with aluminum foil.) Remove the roast in the pan from the oven. Spread the mustard over the top of the roast. Mix the bread crumbs and blue cheese together in a small bowl. Press the crumb mixture in a layer over the mustard. Return to the oven and roast until the crust is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the meat registers 130F for medium-rare meat. (If the crust has browned before the roast is cooked to the desired temperature, tent the roast with aluminum foil.) - 4. Carefully transfer the roast to a carving board and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes. Carve the roast and serve hot. Carefully transfer the roast to a carving board and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes. Carve the roast and serve hot.

NoteFor a truly luxurious version, use Roquefort cheese. However, I have used less expensive Maytag Blue and Danish Blue with great success.

Roast Eye of Round with Dijon-Caper Sauce Makes 6 servings If there isn't room in the budget for prime rib, don't give up on roast beef. There are other flavorful, and less expensive, cuts of beef, too. For the best results, eye of round should be cooked no more than medium-rare, and sliced thin. Serve it with the Root Vegetables Anna (Chapter 5) and a simple green vegetable, such as steamed green beans.

ROAST BEEFOne 3-pound eye of round beef roastSalt1 tablespoon vegetable oil1 teaspoon dried thyme1 teaspoon dried basil teaspoon freshly ground black pepperDIJON-CAPER S SAUCE1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon all-purpose flour2 cups beef stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth2 tablespoons Dijon mustard2 tablespoons nonpareil capers, drained and rinsed

- 1. To prepare the beef, trim off extraneous fat and sinew. Season all over with salt. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before roasting. To prepare the beef, trim off extraneous fat and sinew. Season all over with salt. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before roasting.

- 2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a carving board. Mix the thyme, basil, and pepper together in a small bowl. Sprinkle the herb mixture all over the beef. Transfer the beef to a roasting rack in a roasting pan. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a carving board. Mix the thyme, basil, and pepper together in a small bowl. Sprinkle the herb mixture all over the beef. Transfer the beef to a roasting rack in a roasting pan.

- 3. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 130F, about 45 minutes. Transfer the beef to a carving board. Let stand about 15 minutes while making the sauce. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 130F, about 45 minutes. Transfer the beef to a carving board. Let stand about 15 minutes while making the sauce.

- 4. To make the sauce, place the roasting pan over medium heat. Add the b.u.t.ter to the pan drippings in the pan and melt. Add the flour and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the stock and bring to a boil. Cook, whisking often, until reduced to 1 cups, about 6 minutes. Whisk in the mustard and capers. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a sauceboat. To make the sauce, place the roasting pan over medium heat. Add the b.u.t.ter to the pan drippings in the pan and melt. Add the flour and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the stock and bring to a boil. Cook, whisking often, until reduced to 1 cups, about 6 minutes. Whisk in the mustard and capers. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a sauceboat.

- 5. Carve the beef into thin slices and serve hot with the sauce. Carve the beef into thin slices and serve hot with the sauce.

Braised Short Ribs with Dark Beer and Root Vegetables Makes 6 servings It really breaks my heart to see boneless cuts of meat taking over the butcher case at the market. Every good cook knows that stews made with bone-in cuts give flavor to the braising liquid, and also add body as they give off their gelatin into the simmering sauce. Here is a fine braise, chock-full of meaty short ribs (look for the ones that are cut into individual bones, and not the cross-cut flanken) and earthy root vegetables. Make plenty of mashed potatoes to serve alongside.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided5 pounds short ribs, cut into 3-inch lengths2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper3 medium carrots, 1 finely chopped and 2 cut into 1-inch chunks1 small celery rib with leaves, finely chopped cup coa.r.s.ely chopped shallots8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter cup all-purpose flourTwo 12-ounce bottles dark beer2 cups beef stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth2 tablespoons dark brown sugar1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 tablespoon tomato paste1 teaspoon dried thyme1 bay leaf2 medium parsnips, cut into 1-inch chunks2 large red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1-inch chunksChopped fresh parsley, for garnish

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F.

- 2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a very large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the short ribs with the salt and pepper. In batches, add the short ribs to the Dutch oven and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a very large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the short ribs with the salt and pepper. In batches, add the short ribs to the Dutch oven and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter.

- 3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the Dutch oven. Add the finely chopped carrot and celery, and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring up the browned bits in the Dutch oven with a wooden spatula, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the shallots and cook until they soften, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the Dutch oven. Add the finely chopped carrot and celery, and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring up the browned bits in the Dutch oven with a wooden spatula, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the shallots and cook until they soften, about 2 minutes.

- 4. Add the b.u.t.ter and melt. Sprinkle in the flour and let bubble for 1 minute. Whisk in the beer, then the stock, brown sugar, mustard, tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat. Return the short ribs to the Dutch oven, meaty sides down. Add the b.u.t.ter and melt. Sprinkle in the flour and let bubble for 1 minute. Whisk in the beer, then the stock, brown sugar, mustard, tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil over high heat. Return the short ribs to the Dutch oven, meaty sides down.

- 5. Cover and bake for 2 hours. Remove from the oven and stir in the parsnips, potatoes, and remaining carrots. Return to the oven and continue baking until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes longer. Skim off any fat on the surface, and serve hot, garnished with the parsley. Cover and bake for 2 hours. Remove from the oven and stir in the parsnips, potatoes, and remaining carrots. Return to the oven and continue baking until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes longer. Skim off any fat on the surface, and serve hot, garnished with the parsley.

Sauerbraten Makes 6 servings My cousin Judy and I love to swap recipes, especially those that remind us of our family's Austrian (actually Liechtensteiner!) heritage. She asked if I had a good recipe for the marinated spiced pot roast sauerbraten, and by coincidence, I had just developed this recipe a few days before. The trick for using balsamic vinegar comes from my German-born friend Erna Zahn, and as far as cooking is concerned, what she says goes. Remember: the beef needs to marinate for at least 2 days before braising. And, if you're going to make sauerbraten, you may as well serve Mom's Red Cabbage (Chapter 5) and Homemade Spaetzle with Herb b.u.t.ter (Chapter 4), too.

MARINADE1 cups hearty red wine, such as s.h.i.+raz1 cup red wine vinegar2 medium yellow onions, chopped2 medium carrots, chopped2 celery ribs, chopped4 quarter-sized slices fresh ginger1 teaspoon allspice berries teaspoon whole cloves teaspoon black peppercorns teaspoon yellow mustard seedOne 3-inch cinnamon stick3 bay leaves One 3-pound beef rump roast1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 bacon strips, coa.r.s.ely chopped1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more as needed1 medium onion, chopped1 medium carrot, chopped1 celery rib, chopped2 cups beef stock, preferably homemade, or use low-sodium canned broth cup crushed gingersnap cookies2 tablespoons balsamic vinegarSalt and freshly ground black pepper

- 1. At least 3 days before cooking, make the marinade. Mix all of the ingredients with 1 cup water in a large, deep, nonreactive bowl. Add the rump roast and cover. Refrigerate, turning occasionally in the marinade, for at least 2 and up to 3 days. At least 3 days before cooking, make the marinade. Mix all of the ingredients with 1 cup water in a large, deep, nonreactive bowl. Add the rump roast and cover. Refrigerate, turning occasionally in the marinade, for at least 2 and up to 3 days.

- 2. Remove the meat from the marinade and pat it dry with paper towels. Season with the salt and pepper. Strain the marinade and reserve 2 cups. Remove the meat from the marinade and pat it dry with paper towels. Season with the salt and pepper. Strain the marinade and reserve 2 cups.

- 3. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325F.

- 4. Cook the bacon and oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until the bacon is crisp and browned. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour the fat into a small heatproof bowl. Cook the bacon and oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until the bacon is crisp and browned. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour the fat into a small heatproof bowl.

- 5. Return 2 tablespoons of the fat to the Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes, adding more vegetable oil as needed. Transfer to a plate. Return 2 tablespoons of the fat to the Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat. Add the beef and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 8 minutes, adding more vegetable oil as needed. Transfer to a plate.

- 6. Add the remaining bacon fat to the Dutch oven and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved marinade and stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the beef and reserved bacon, and return to the boil. Add the remaining bacon fat to the Dutch oven and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the reserved marinade and stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the beef and reserved bacon, and return to the boil.

- 7. Cover tightly and bake, turning the meat occasionally in the liquid, until fork-tender, about 3 hours. Transfer the meat to a platter and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm. Cover tightly and bake, turning the meat occasionally in the liquid, until fork-tender, about 3 hours. Transfer the meat to a platter and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm.

- 8. Skim off the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid. Place the pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced to about 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the gingersnaps and cook until lightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste. Skim off the fat from the surface of the cooking liquid. Place the pot over high heat and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced to about 2 cups, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the gingersnaps and cook until lightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.

- 9. Slice the sauerbraten across the grain. Spoon the sauce on top and serve hot. Slice the sauerbraten across the grain. Spoon the sauce on top and serve hot.

Cider-Brined Roast Pork with Sweet Potatoes and Apples Makes 6 to 8 servings This one-pot meal will fill your kitchen with the appet.i.te-arousing meaty aroma of roasting pork and the fragrance of caramelizing root vegetables. If you can, use white-fleshed "true" sweet potatoes instead of orange-fleshed yams for this dish. Sauteed kale would be perfect on the side.

BRINETwo 12-ounce bottles hard apple or pear cider cup table salt cup packed light brown sugar1 tablespoon dried rosemary1 tablespoon dried sage1 tablespoon dried thyme1 teaspoon fennel seed1 teaspoon black peppercorns2 bay leaves4 cups ice water One 4-pound center-cut pork loin with bones (6 ribs)2 white-fleshed sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks2 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and cut lengthwise into sixths1 tablespoon vegetable oilSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemarySAUCE2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons all-purpose flour1 cup hard apple or pear cider1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use low-sodium canned broth

- 1. To make the brine, about 8 hours before roasting the pork, bring the cider, salt, brown sugar, rosemary, sage, thyme, fennel seed, peppercorns, and bay leaves to a simmer in a medium nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, stirring often to dissolve the salt. Transfer to a large deep bowl and let cool until tepid. Add the ice water and stir well. Add the pork to the brine. Cover and refrigerate, turning the pork occasionally in the brine, for at least 4 and up to 6 hours, but no longer. To make the brine, about 8 hours before roasting the pork, bring the cider, salt, brown sugar, rosemary, sage, thyme, fennel seed, peppercorns, and bay leaves to a simmer in a medium nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, stirring often to dissolve the salt. Transfer to a large deep bowl and let cool until tepid. Add the ice water and stir well. Add the pork to the brine. Cover and refrigerate, turning the pork occasionally in the brine, for at least 4 and up to 6 hours, but no longer.

- 2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450F.

- 3. Drain the pork and pat it dry with paper towels. Place the pork in a roasting pan, meaty side up. Roast for 45 minutes. Drain the pork and pat it dry with paper towels. Place the pork in a roasting pan, meaty side up. Roast for 45 minutes.

- 4. Toss the sweet potatoes and apples together with the vegetable oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Spread around the pork and stir with the juices in the pan to coat. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 140F, about 40 minutes more. Transfer the pork to a platter and tent it with aluminum foil. Let stand for 10 to 20 minutes while roasting the sweet potatoes and apples. Toss the sweet potatoes and apples together with the vegetable oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Spread around the pork and stir with the juices in the pan to coat. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reads 140F, about 40 minutes more. Transfer the pork to a platter and tent it with aluminum foil. Let stand for 10 to 20 minutes while roasting the sweet potatoes and apples.

- 5. Stir the sweet potatoes and apples and continue roasting until they are tender, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the rosemary, and toss gently. Scatter around the pork on the platter and cover again with foil to keep warm while making the sauce. Stir the sweet potatoes and apples and continue roasting until they are tender, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a serving bowl, sprinkle with the rosemary, and toss gently. Scatter around the pork on the platter and cover again with foil to keep warm while making the sauce.

- 6. Leaving any browned bits in the pan, pour out the fat. Place the pan over medium heat. Add the b.u.t.ter and let melt. Whisk in the flour and let bubble until very lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the cider, then the stock, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened and no taste of raw flour remains, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a sauceboat. Leaving any browned bits in the pan, pour out the fat. Place the pan over medium heat. Add the b.u.t.ter and let melt. Whisk in the flour and let bubble until very lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the cider, then the stock, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened and no taste of raw flour remains, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a sauceboat.

- 7. Carve the roast and serve hot with the sweet potatoes and apples, and the sauce on the side. Carve the roast and serve hot with the sweet potatoes and apples, and the sauce on the side.

Baked Ham with Cranberry-Tangerine Glaze Makes about 12 servings During the festive holiday season, we have ample opportunity to feed a large group, and ham has long been the main course of choice when serving a crowd. Always opt for a ham on the bone, which will be much more flavorful than a presliced one. (The juices lost during the preslicing are replaced with salt water, making these hams too salty for my taste.) This recipe makes double use of a vibrant magenta cranberry-tangerine relish, as some of the juices are used to glaze the ham, while the remainder is served alongside.

CRANBERRY-TANGERINE R RELISH9 tangerinesOne 12-ounce bag cranberries, rinsed and sorted1 cup sugar One 6-pound smoked ham half on the bone12 ounces ginger ale

- 1. To make the glaze, grate the zest from 2 tangerines and reserve. Cut 7 of the tangerines in half crosswise and squeeze the juice from them. You should have 1 cup tangerine juice. Peel the remaining 2 tangerines and separate them into segments. Cut each segment in half crosswise, discarding any seeds. Set the chopped tangerines aside. To make the glaze, grate the zest from 2 tangerines and reserve. Cut 7 of the tangerines in half crosswise and squeeze the juice from them. You should have 1 cup tangerine juice. Peel the remaining 2 tangerines and separate them into segments. Cut each segment in half crosswise, discarding any seeds. Set the chopped tangerines aside.

- 2. Combine the cranberries, tangerine juice and zest, and sugar together in a large saucepan. Cook over medium heat just until all of the berries have burst and given off their juices and the juices are boiling. Strain in a wire sieve over a bowl. Measure out and reserve cup of the juices. Combine the cranberries, tangerine juice and zest, and sugar together in a large saucepan. Cook over medium heat just until all of the berries have burst and given off their juices and the juices are boiling. Strain in a wire sieve over a bowl. Measure out and reserve cup of the juices.

- 3. Transfer the cranberry mixture and any remaining juices to a medium bowl and let cool. Stir in the reserved chopped tangerines. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour. (The relish can be made up to 1 day ahead.) Transfer the cranberry mixture and any remaining juices to a medium bowl and let cool. Stir in the reserved chopped tangerines. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour. (The relish can be made up to 1 day ahead.) - 4. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Line a roasting pan with aluminum foil.

- 5. Trim the exterior fat on the ham to -inch thickness. Score the ham in a crosshatch pattern with 1/8-inch-deep score marks about 1 inch apart. Place the ham on a roasting rack in the pan, flat side down, with the bone sticking up. Pour the ginger ale over the ham. Cover the pan with aluminum foil. Trim the exterior fat on the ham to -inch thickness. Score the ham in a crosshatch pattern with 1/8-inch-deep score marks about 1 inch apart. Place the ham on a roasting rack in the pan, flat side down, with the bone sticking up. Pour the ginger ale over the ham. Cover the pan with aluminum foil.

- 6. Bake for 1 hours. Discard the foil. Pour the reserved cranberry juice mixture over the ham. Continue baking, occasionally basting with the pan juices, until the ham is glazed and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the ham (but not touching a bone) reads 140F, about 45 minutes. If the ham gets too brown, tent it with foil. If the glaze threatens to scorch, add water to the pan. Bake for 1 hours. Discard the foil. Pour the reserved cranberry juice mixture over the ham. Continue baking, occasionally basting with the pan juices, until the ham is glazed and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the ham (but not touching a bone) reads 140F, about 45 minutes. If the ham gets too brown, tent it with foil. If the glaze threatens to scorch, add water to the pan.

- 7. Transfer the ham to a platter and let stand 15 minutes. Carve the ham. Pour the pan juices over the sliced ham and serve with the cranberry-tangerine relish on the side. Transfer the ham to a platter and let stand 15 minutes. Carve the ham. Pour the pan juices over the sliced ham and serve with the cranberry-tangerine relish on the side.

A New Year's BuffetPizza with Fontina, Potatoes, and Tapenade (Chapter 1)Baked Brie with Wild Mushrooms and Thyme (Chapter 1)Baked Ham with Cranberry-Tangerine Glaze (Chapter 3)Mashed Potato Ca.s.serole with Smoked Gouda and Bacon (Chapter 5)Poached Leeks with Creamy Vinaigrette (Chapter 2)Grapefruit Cupcakes (Chapter 6)

Wine-Braised Sauerkraut and Sausages Makes 6 servings This is a simplified version of choucroute garni choucroute garni, a dish I learned to love when I was studying cuisine in Paris, and found myself eating in inexpensive bra.s.series much more often than Michelin-starred fine restaurants. Who knew that humble sauerkraut could be so delicious? There are two secrets here: refrigerated (not canned) sauerkraut and a fruity (not dry) white wine. While I usually make it with sausages, c'est magnifique c'est magnifique with smoked pork chops or even a slice of ham. with smoked pork chops or even a slice of ham.

4 slices bacon, coa.r.s.ely chopped2 medium onions, chopped4 garlic cloves, finely chopped3 pounds refrigerated sauerkraut, drained well (see Note)2 cups semidry white wine, such as Riesling or Pinot Blanc1 cup chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth6 juniper berries, crushed, or 2 tablespoons gin (optional)1 bay leaf1 teaspoon vegetable oil6 cooked chicken and apple sausages, frankfurters, or your favorite cooked sausages, each pierced with a fork1 pound kielbasa, cut into 6 serving piecesDijon or grainy mustard, for serving

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F.

- 2. Cook the bacon in a Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the Dutch oven. Cook the bacon in a Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the Dutch oven.

- 3. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the sauerkraut, wine, stock, juniper berries (if using), and bay leaf, and bring to a boil. Cover and bake for 45 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the sauerkraut, wine, stock, juniper berries (if using), and bay leaf, and bring to a boil. Cover and bake for 45 minutes.

- 4. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Lightly brown the kielbasa in the same skillet, and bury it in the sauerkraut. Continue baking, uncovered, until the sausages are heated through, about 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Lightly brown the kielbasa in the same skillet, and bury it in the sauerkraut. Continue baking, uncovered, until the sausages are heated through, about 20 minutes. Remove the bay leaf.

- 5. Using a slotted spoon, serve hot from the Dutch oven, with the mustard on the side. Using a slotted spoon, serve hot from the Dutch oven, with the mustard on the side.

NoteRefrigerated sauerkraut, packed in plastic bags, can be found near the frankfurters at the supermarket. If you prefer less tangy sauerkraut, rinse it under cold running water, then drain well.

Soft Tacos with Chipotle Carnitas Makes 6 servings Pork shoulder is one of the great meat cuts. Sure, it takes a long time to cook, but the flavorful reward is worth the time. Here, I've cooked chunks of it the Mexican way, simmered until they are fall-apart tender, and stuffed them into hot tortillas to make soft tacos. This recipe doesn't depend on garden-fresh ingredients to be delicious, making it perfect winter fare.

CARNITAS3 tablespoons olive oil, divided3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks teaspoon salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste1 medium onion, thinly sliced6 garlic cloves, coa.r.s.ely chopped2 teaspoons dried oregano1 teaspoon ground c.u.min2 bay leavesCHIPOTLE S SAUCEOne 15-ounce can plum tomatoes in juice, drained1 medium onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped2 garlic cloves, finely chopped2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo, chopped, to taste1 tablespoon olive oil1 tablespoon cider vinegarCorn tortillas, for serving

- 1. To make the carnitas, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F. To make the carnitas, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 300F.

- 2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the pork with the teaspoons of the salt and pepper. In batches, add the pork to the Dutch oven and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a plate, leaving the fat in the Dutch oven. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the pork with the teaspoons of the salt and pepper. In batches, add the pork to the Dutch oven and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a plate, leaving the fat in the Dutch oven.

- 3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the Dutch oven and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil, sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits in the Dutch oven with a wooden spatula. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the Dutch oven and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil, sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits in the Dutch oven with a wooden spatula.

- 4. Return the pork to the Dutch oven. Add the oregano, c.u.min, and bay leaves, and stir well. Cover and bake until the pork is very tender, about 2 hours. Return the pork to the Dutch oven. Add the oregano, c.u.min, and bay leaves, and stir well. Cover and bake until the pork is very tender, about 2 hours.

- 5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a platter. Boil the cooking liquid in the Dutch oven until reduced to about cup, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a platter. Boil the cooking liquid in the Dutch oven until reduced to about cup, about 20 minutes.

- 6. Meanwhile, make the chipotle sauce. Puree the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and chipotles together in a blender. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the puree (it will splatter, so be careful) and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring often, until reduced by about half, about 5 minutes. Stir in the pork and vinegar and cook until the pork is heated through, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Meanwhile, make the chipotle sauce. Puree the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and chipotles together in a blender. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the puree (it will splatter, so be careful) and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring often, until reduced by about half, about 5 minutes. Stir in the pork and vinegar and cook until the pork is heated through, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

- 7. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot with warm tortillas on the side. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot with warm tortillas on the side.

Spanish Panini with Manchego, Jamon Serrano, and Dates Makes 2 sandwiches This is a grilled cheese sandwich for adults, made with some of the most distinctly flavorful ingredients on the planet. Sharp Manchego plays off the salty Serrano ham, and the sweet, chewy dates have a harmonizing effect. Jamon Serrano is really the best choice here, because other country-style hams, such as prosciutto, may be too salty.

4 slices firm white sandwich bread6 ounces Manchego, thinly sliced with a sharp knife4 ounces thinly sliced Jamon Serrano (see Note)4 Medjool dates, pitted and chopped with a wet knife3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, well softened

- 1. Place 2 bread slices on the work surface. Top the bread with half of the cheese, then all of the ham. Sprinkle with the dates, then top with the remaining cheese and bread slices. Place 2 bread slices on the work surface. Top the bread with half of the cheese, then all of the ham. Sprinkle with the dates, then top with the remaining cheese and bread slices.