Winter Gatherings Part 6

BRAISED K KALE2 pounds kale3 bacon strips, coa.r.s.ely chopped2 teaspoons vegetable oil1 medium onion, chopped1 medium celery rib, chopped green bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, chopped2 garlic cloves, finely chopped3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth2 tablespoons cider vinegar1 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakesSalt and freshly ground black pepperCORNMEAL D DUMPLINGS1 cup all-purpose flour cup yellow cornmeal, preferably stone-ground2 teaspoons baking powder1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon salt cup whole milk cup thawed frozen corn kernels

- 1. To prepare the kale, remove the tough stems. Chop the stems into -inch-thick pieces. Fill a sink with cold water and add the stems. Wash the stems well. Lift out of the water and set aside in a bowl; do not dry. Fill the sink with fresh water. A few at a time, stack the leaves and cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips. Add to the water and wash well. Lift out of the water and transfer to a large colander; do not dry. To prepare the kale, remove the tough stems. Chop the stems into -inch-thick pieces. Fill a sink with cold water and add the stems. Wash the stems well. Lift out of the water and set aside in a bowl; do not dry. Fill the sink with fresh water. A few at a time, stack the leaves and cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips. Add to the water and wash well. Lift out of the water and transfer to a large colander; do not dry.

- 2. Cook the bacon and oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the saucepan. Cook the bacon and oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the saucepan.

- 3. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper to the saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the stems. In batches, add the leaves, letting the first batch wilt before adding another. Stir in the stock, vinegar, and red pepper flakes, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the leaves are tender, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper to the saucepan and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until it gives off its fragrance, about 1 minute. Stir in the stems. In batches, add the leaves, letting the first batch wilt before adding another. Stir in the stock, vinegar, and red pepper flakes, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the leaves are tender, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

- 4. To make the dumplings, whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, and salt together in a medium bowl. Add the milk and stir until combined. Stir in the corn. Drop the batter by heaping teaspoons into the saucepan-you should have 24 small dumplings. Cover and simmer until the dumplings are cooked through, about 15 minutes. To make the dumplings, whisk the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, sugar, and salt together in a medium bowl. Add the milk and stir until combined. Stir in the corn. Drop the batter by heaping teaspoons into the saucepan-you should have 24 small dumplings. Cover and simmer until the dumplings are cooked through, about 15 minutes.

- 5. To serve, spoon the kale with its liquid and the dumplings into individual bowls and serve hot. (You can also serve the kale and dumplings with a slotted spoon, and pour the cooking liquid into mugs to sip on the side.) To serve, spoon the kale with its liquid and the dumplings into individual bowls and serve hot. (You can also serve the kale and dumplings with a slotted spoon, and pour the cooking liquid into mugs to sip on the side.)

DESSERTS.

Homemade Marshmallows b.u.t.terscotch Banana Pudding k.u.mquat Upside-Down Cake Chocolate and Orange Tart Pear Souffles "Helene"

Maple Cremes Brulees Grapefruit Cupcakes Pear and Crystallized Ginger Gingerbread

Homemade Marshmallows Makes about 1 pound, 24 large marshmallows What could be cooler to make at home than marshmallows? They are really very easy to pull off, as long as you have the right tools-a candy thermometer and a heavy-duty standing mixer. Make a batch to put on top of a steaming mug of hot chocolate (Chapter 1), or give them away as holiday gifts.

Vegetable oil for the panConfectioners' sugar for the pan and the work surface2 envelopes (4 teaspoons) unflavored gelatin1 cup granulated sugar2/3 cup light corn syrup1/8 teaspoon salt2 teaspoons vanilla extract

- 1. Lightly oil an 8-inch square baking pan. Line the bottom and the two short sides with a strip of aluminum foil, preferably nonstick, folding the excess foil over the edges to act as handles. Lightly oil the foil. Generously dust the bottom and the sides of the pan with confectioners' sugar. Lightly oil an 8-inch square baking pan. Line the bottom and the two short sides with a strip of aluminum foil, preferably nonstick, folding the excess foil over the edges to act as handles. Lightly oil the foil. Generously dust the bottom and the sides of the pan with confectioners' sugar.

- 2. Pour 1/3 cup water in the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer and sprinkle the gelatin on top. Attach the bowl to the mixer and affix the paddle blade. Pour 1/3 cup water in the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer and sprinkle the gelatin on top. Attach the bowl to the mixer and affix the paddle blade.

- 3. Combine the granulated sugar, corn syrup, and an additional 1/3 cup water in a small saucepan. Attach a candy thermometer to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the syrup boils, stop stirring and boil, was.h.i.+ng down any sugar crystals that form on the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water and occasionally swirling the pan by the handle, until the syrup reaches 240F. Combine the granulated sugar, corn syrup, and an additional 1/3 cup water in a small saucepan. Attach a candy thermometer to the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. When the syrup boils, stop stirring and boil, was.h.i.+ng down any sugar crystals that form on the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in cold water and occasionally swirling the pan by the handle, until the syrup reaches 240F.

- 4. With the mixer on low speed, gradually pour the hot syrup into the gelatin mixture. After the syrup has been added, add the salt and increase the speed to medium-high. Beat until the mixture is white, fluffy, and cooled to tepid, 8 to 10 minutes. Beat in the vanilla. With the mixer on low speed, gradually pour the hot syrup into the gelatin mixture. After the syrup has been added, add the salt and increase the speed to medium-high. Beat until the mixture is white, fluffy, and cooled to tepid, 8 to 10 minutes. Beat in the vanilla.

- 5. Rinse a rubber spatula under cold water. Using the wet spatula, immediately spread the mixture in the prepared pan. Let stand until completely set, at least 4 hours. Generously dust a work surface with confectioners' sugar. Invert and unmold the marshmallow onto the work surface and peel off the foil. Using an oiled knife or pizza wheel, cut into 24 pieces. (The marshmallows can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.) Rinse a rubber spatula under cold water. Using the wet spatula, immediately spread the mixture in the prepared pan. Let stand until completely set, at least 4 hours. Generously dust a work surface with confectioners' sugar. Invert and unmold the marshmallow onto the work surface and peel off the foil. Using an oiled knife or pizza wheel, cut into 24 pieces. (The marshmallows can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.)

b.u.t.terscotch Banana Pudding Makes 6 servings Because they are always reliably tasty, bananas are a good fruit to use in winter desserts. I love banana pudding as much as the next guy, if not more. Over the years, I've fooled around with the recipe to get away from the plain vanilla version. This is my latest rendition, with the caramel flavor of b.u.t.terscotch and the spiciness of gingersnaps to perk up the bananas.

b.u.t.tERSCOTCH P PUDDING6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, divided cup packed light or dark brown sugar (use dark for a deeper mola.s.ses flavor)1 cup heavy cream cup cornstarch2 cups whole milk4 large egg yolks1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 ripe bananas, peeled and sliced1 cups coa.r.s.ely crushed gingersnap cookies cup heavy cream1 tablespoon granulated sugar teaspoon vanilla extract

- 1. To make the pudding, melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and whisk until the mixture is melted. Whisk in the heavy cream and cook until the mixture comes to a simmer. To make the pudding, melt 4 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and whisk until the mixture is melted. Whisk in the heavy cream and cook until the mixture comes to a simmer.

- 2. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the milk and whisk until dissolved. Whisk into the saucepan and cook until it comes to a simmer. Whisk the egg yolks together in a heatproof medium bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot cream mixture, then whisk it back into the saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, until the pudding comes to a full boil. Reduce the heat to low and whisk for another 15 seconds. (Be sure that the pudding comes to a full lavalike boil, or it will thin out as it stands.) Remove from the heat. Whisk in the vanilla. Transfer to a bowl. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter into small cubes and scatter over the top of the pudding. Cover the pudding with a sheet of plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface. Pierce a few slits in the plastic wrap with the tip of a small knife and let cool. Sprinkle the cornstarch over the milk and whisk until dissolved. Whisk into the saucepan and cook until it comes to a simmer. Whisk the egg yolks together in a heatproof medium bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot cream mixture, then whisk it back into the saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, until the pudding comes to a full boil. Reduce the heat to low and whisk for another 15 seconds. (Be sure that the pudding comes to a full lavalike boil, or it will thin out as it stands.) Remove from the heat. Whisk in the vanilla. Transfer to a bowl. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter into small cubes and scatter over the top of the pudding. Cover the pudding with a sheet of plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface. Pierce a few slits in the plastic wrap with the tip of a small knife and let cool.

- 3. Layer the pudding, bananas, and gingersnaps in 6 dessert bowls or gla.s.ses. Cover each with a piece of plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface of the pudding and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. Layer the pudding, bananas, and gingersnaps in 6 dessert bowls or gla.s.ses. Cover each with a piece of plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface of the pudding and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours.

- 4. Whip the cream, granulated sugar, and vanilla in a chilled medium bowl with a hand-held electric mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form. Top each pudding with a dollop of the cream and serve chilled. Whip the cream, granulated sugar, and vanilla in a chilled medium bowl with a hand-held electric mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form. Top each pudding with a dollop of the cream and serve chilled.

k.u.mquat Upside-Down Cake Makes 10 servings Upside-down cakes are unabashedly old-fas.h.i.+oned, but they sure make an impressive dessert. As k.u.mquats are an underappreciated fruit that no one seems to know what to do with, this cake has another built-in chance to impress your guests with an unfamiliar ingredient. And with its glistening rounds of orange k.u.mquats, it looks fantastic, too. As it takes guts to unmold the cake out of a heavy cast-iron skillet, subst.i.tute a heavy-gauge 10 x 2-inch metal cake pan, if you prefer.

k.u.mQUAT T TOPPING1 pint k.u.mquats1 cup packed light brown sugar6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into small piecesCAKE1 cups all-purpose flour1 cup granulated sugar1 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at very soft room temperature cup milk2 large eggs, at room temperature1 teaspoon vanilla extract

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350F.

- 2. To make the k.u.mquat topping, cut each k.u.mquat crosswise into thirds, removing the seeds. Stir the brown sugar and b.u.t.ter in a 9-to 10-inch-diameter cast-iron skillet over medium heat until the sugar is melted and bubbling. Add the k.u.mquats and spread them out in the sugar mixture in a single layer. To make the k.u.mquat topping, cut each k.u.mquat crosswise into thirds, removing the seeds. Stir the brown sugar and b.u.t.ter in a 9-to 10-inch-diameter cast-iron skillet over medium heat until the sugar is melted and bubbling. Add the k.u.mquats and spread them out in the sugar mixture in a single layer.

- 3. To make the cake, whisk the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter, milk, eggs, and vanilla. Mix with an electric mixer set on low speed to moisten. Increase the speed to high and mix, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed, for 2 minutes (set a timer to be sure), until smooth and fluffy. Sc.r.a.pe into the skillet and smooth the top. To make the cake, whisk the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter, milk, eggs, and vanilla. Mix with an electric mixer set on low speed to moisten. Increase the speed to high and mix, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed, for 2 minutes (set a timer to be sure), until smooth and fluffy. Sc.r.a.pe into the skillet and smooth the top.

- 4. Bake until the cake is golden brown and springs back when pressed lightly in the center with your finger, about 35 minutes. Let stand in the pan on a wire cake rack for 5 minutes. Bake until the cake is golden brown and springs back when pressed lightly in the center with your finger, about 35 minutes. Let stand in the pan on a wire cake rack for 5 minutes.

- 5. Run a knife around the inside of the skillet to release the cake. Place a round rimmed serving platter over the pan. Holding the platter and skillet together, quickly invert to unmold the cake. Let stand until warm or cool completely. Cut into wedges and serve. Run a knife around the inside of the skillet to release the cake. Place a round rimmed serving platter over the pan. Holding the platter and skillet together, quickly invert to unmold the cake. Let stand until warm or cool completely. Cut into wedges and serve.

k.u.mquatsLooking like small, elongated oranges, attached to glossy dark green leaves, k.u.mquats are so attractive that when I first came across them at the market, I used them mainly for garnis.h.i.+ng. It was my loss that it took me a while to discover how delicious they can be in cooking.k.u.mquats are originally from China, and didn't really make it to the West until the mid-nineteenth century, and even then, they were appreciated more for their beauty in the garden than in the kitchen. There is quite an argument between botanists whether k.u.mquats belong to their own genus, Fortunella Fortunella, or if they are a member of the Citrus Citrus family. They are frost-hardy, and thrive in cool areas like the San Francis...o...b..y Area. family. They are frost-hardy, and thrive in cool areas like the San Francis...o...b..y Area.The entire fruit is edible, although eating is easier if the seeds are removed. While one could simply serve sliced k.u.mquats macerated in sugar or liqueur, I prefer to cook them to soften their texture and mellow their tartness. Try adding them to homemade cranberry sauce, or simmering them on their own with some sugar to make a quick warm topping for ice cream.

Chocolate and Orange Tart Makes 8 servings Every baker needs a surefire showstopper, something guaranteed to garner oohs and aahs from dinner guests, and this tart is one of my tried-and-trues. First of all, it's hard to find someone who doesn't love chocolate. Second, it is very easy to make-the pastry crust doesn't even require rolling out. The color combination of deep brown chocolate and neon-bright orange segments is dramatic, especially when you use both navel and blood oranges. Consider making this for Valentine's Day.

CRUST1 cup all-purpose flour3 tablespoons sugar teaspoon salt6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, thinly sliced1 large egg yolk, beaten with 1 tablespoon waterFILLING5 oranges, preferably a combination of navel and blood oranges1 cups heavy cream9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature1 tablespoon light corn syrup

- 1. To make the crust, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt together in a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade to combine. Add the b.u.t.ter and pulse about 8 times until the mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. With the machine running, add the yolk mixture and pulse just until the mixture clumps together. Transfer to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Firmly and evenly press the dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Pierce the dough all over with a fork. Freeze for 30 minutes. To make the crust, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt together in a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade to combine. Add the b.u.t.ter and pulse about 8 times until the mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. With the machine running, add the yolk mixture and pulse just until the mixture clumps together. Transfer to a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Firmly and evenly press the dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Pierce the dough all over with a fork. Freeze for 30 minutes.

- 2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400F. Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Line the dough with aluminum foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the exposed edge of the crust looks set and is beginning to brown, about 15 minutes. Lift off the foil with the weights. Continue baking until the crust is golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Transfer to a wire cake rack and let cool completely. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400F. Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Line the dough with aluminum foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the exposed edge of the crust looks set and is beginning to brown, about 15 minutes. Lift off the foil with the weights. Continue baking until the crust is golden brown, about 15 minutes more. Transfer to a wire cake rack and let cool completely.

- 3. To make the filling, grate the zest from 1 orange and set aside. Cut off the peel from each orange. Working over a bowl to catch the segments and juice, using a serrated knife, cut between the membranes to release the segments. Cover and refrigerate the oranges and juice until ready to serve. To make the filling, grate the zest from 1 orange and set aside. Cut off the peel from each orange. Working over a bowl to catch the segments and juice, using a serrated knife, cut between the membranes to release the segments. Cover and refrigerate the oranges and juice until ready to serve.

- 4. Bring the cream to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let stand until the chocolate softens, about 3 minutes. Whisk until smooth. Add the b.u.t.ter, corn syrup, and orange zest, and whisk again. Pour into the cooled crust and smooth the top. Refrigerate until the filling is set, at least 1 hour. (The tart can be refrigerated, uncovered, for up to 1 day.) Bring the cream to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let stand until the chocolate softens, about 3 minutes. Whisk until smooth. Add the b.u.t.ter, corn syrup, and orange zest, and whisk again. Pour into the cooled crust and smooth the top. Refrigerate until the filling is set, at least 1 hour. (The tart can be refrigerated, uncovered, for up to 1 day.) - 5. Just before serving, drain the orange segments (drink the juice as the chef's treat), and pat them dry on paper towels. Arrange the orange segments on the chocolate filling. Cut into wedges and serve chilled. Just before serving, drain the orange segments (drink the juice as the chef's treat), and pat them dry on paper towels. Arrange the orange segments on the chocolate filling. Cut into wedges and serve chilled.

Blood OrangesOne morning in Italy, my breakfast gla.s.s of orange juice was a shocking deep red color, and the flavor was less acidic than usual, with hints of berries. I had just been introduced to blood oranges.At that time, there were only two kinds of American oranges-the California navel orange (the first choice for eating) and the Florida Valencia juice orange. I learned that the Italian oranges were actually Tarocco oranges from Sicily. If I had had my first blood orange experience in Spain, I surely would have been served the Spanish variety, called Sanguinello (sangue is Spanish for blood). The oranges get their dramatic red hue from anthocyanin, a pigment that is found in red flowers and plants, but isn't common in fruits. is Spanish for blood). The oranges get their dramatic red hue from anthocyanin, a pigment that is found in red flowers and plants, but isn't common in fruits.A few years ago, I noticed that the blood orange, like so many other Italian foods, had made the jump over the Atlantic. Farmers in California were growing a new strain of blood orange, the Moro. Later, a second blood orange found its way into the market, the Cara Cara. Most people won't care about the difference, but the Cara Cara isn't a true blood orange, it is a mutation and its color comes from lycopene, the same pigment/ant.i.toxicant that colors papaya, tomatoes, and watermelon.The season for blood oranges runs from November to May, with its peak in January and February. They are great fun to cook with, for with their unexpected color and berrylike flavor, they always end up being a subject of conversation.

Pear Souffles "Helene"

Makes 6 servings My friend and Bon Appet.i.t Bon Appet.i.t food editor Kristine Kidd is very selective about her dessert calories, so when she reported that she ate her entire helping of this elegant souffle, I knew I had a winner. It is a reconstructed version of the cla.s.sic bistro dessert Poires Helene, poached pears with chocolate sauce. For the best results, the pears must be very ripe and juicy, so buy them a few days ahead and let ripen at room temperature. food editor Kristine Kidd is very selective about her dessert calories, so when she reported that she ate her entire helping of this elegant souffle, I knew I had a winner. It is a reconstructed version of the cla.s.sic bistro dessert Poires Helene, poached pears with chocolate sauce. For the best results, the pears must be very ripe and juicy, so buy them a few days ahead and let ripen at room temperature.

CHOCOLATE-COGNAC S SAUCE2/3 cup heavy cream5 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped2 tablespoons Cognac, brandy, or pear liqueurSOUFFLeS2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, plus more for the souffle dishes5 ripe Comice or Anjou pears (about 2 pounds total), peeled, cored, and cut into -inch dice cup sugar, divided, plus more for the souffle dishes2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice3 large eggs, separated, plus 1 large egg white, at room temperature

- 1. To make the sauce, heat the cream in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat until simmering. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and let stand until chocolate softens, about 3 minutes. Add the Cognac and whisk until smooth. (The sauce can be made 1 day ahead, covered, and stored at room temperature.) Set the sauce aside. To make the sauce, heat the cream in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat until simmering. Remove from the heat. Add the chocolate and let stand until chocolate softens, about 3 minutes. Add the Cognac and whisk until smooth. (The sauce can be made 1 day ahead, covered, and stored at room temperature.) Set the sauce aside.

- 2. To make the souffles, b.u.t.ter the insides of six -cup souffle dishes or ramekins. Coat the insides with sugar and tap out the excess. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. To make the souffles, b.u.t.ter the insides of six -cup souffle dishes or ramekins. Coat the insides with sugar and tap out the excess. Place on a rimmed baking sheet.

- 3. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the pears and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown around the edges, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoons sugar and cook until the pears are caramelized and the juices are thick, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining b.u.t.ter, pears, and another 1 tablespoons of the sugar. Stir in the lemon juice. Melt 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add half of the pears and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown around the edges, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoons sugar and cook until the pears are caramelized and the juices are thick, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining b.u.t.ter, pears, and another 1 tablespoons of the sugar. Stir in the lemon juice.

- 4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer all of the pears to a food processor or blender, reserving the pear juice in the bowl. Puree the pears. (The puree can be prepared up to 2 days ahead, covered and refrigerated.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer all of the pears to a food processor or blender, reserving the pear juice in the bowl. Puree the pears. (The puree can be prepared up to 2 days ahead, covered and refrigerated.) - 5. Transfer the puree to a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Whisk the egg yolks into the puree. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is very hot but not boiling. Transfer to a medium bowl. Transfer the puree to a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Whisk the egg yolks into the puree. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture is very hot but not boiling. Transfer to a medium bowl.

- 6. Beat the egg whites in a separate medium bowl with a hand-held electric mixer set on high speed just until soft peaks form. One tablespoon at a time, beat in the remaining 5 tablespoons sugar and beat just until s.h.i.+ny peaks form. Stir one-fourth of the whites into the pear mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites. Spoon into the prepared dishes (the dishes will be full). Beat the egg whites in a separate medium bowl with a hand-held electric mixer set on high speed just until soft peaks form. One tablespoon at a time, beat in the remaining 5 tablespoons sugar and beat just until s.h.i.+ny peaks form. Stir one-fourth of the whites into the pear mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining whites. Spoon into the prepared dishes (the dishes will be full).

- 7. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375F. Bake until the souffles are puffed and golden brown, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, stir 2 tablespoons of the reserved pear juice into the chocolate sauce and gently reheat the sauce over low heat just until warm; do not boil. Pour into a sauceboat. Serve the souffles immediately, with the chocolate sauce served on the side. Allow each guest to pierce a hole in the center of their souffle and pour in the sauce. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375F. Bake until the souffles are puffed and golden brown, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, stir 2 tablespoons of the reserved pear juice into the chocolate sauce and gently reheat the sauce over low heat just until warm; do not boil. Pour into a sauceboat. Serve the souffles immediately, with the chocolate sauce served on the side. Allow each guest to pierce a hole in the center of their souffle and pour in the sauce.

PearsIn order to develop their full flavor, pears need cool evenings, which extends their growing season well into the fall, and they store deep into the winter. Most American pears are grown in Oregon, Was.h.i.+ngton, and northern California, and are s.h.i.+pped throughout the country, although you will find some locally grown pears outside of these major growing regions.Pears are one of the few fruits that are meant to be ripened off the tree, as they turn gritty otherwise. So plan ahead when serving pears, as you will rarely find ripe ones at the market. Bring them home and let them ripen at room temperature until they have a slight give when pressed at the neck, a process that takes a few days. To hasten ripening, close them in a paper bag with bananas to trap the ethylene gas the fruits give off. Never refrigerate pears until they have reached the desired state of ripeness.Pears are often nicked during s.h.i.+pping from the stems on the other fruits in the box (for this reason, expensive "fancy" pears are hand-wrapped in tissue and nestled individually in boxes before transporting), so if you want perfect pears for presentation, choose them carefully.You will find quite a range of flavors and textures in the pear varieties, which arrive at different points of the season. Bartletts (with either yellow or red skins) and Anjous (green or red) are juicy and sweet and wonderful for eating out of hand. Comice pears are larger and loaded with honeylike juice. Firm, russet-colored Boscs are good for baking because they hold their shape after heating. Small Seckle or Forelles are great for serving on cheese platters, as their small size makes for nice individual servings.

Maple Cremes Brulees Makes 6 servings Spoonful for spoonful, there are few culinary experiences more sensual than the silken feel of creme brulee. Maple syrup, which can only be collected during fluctuations in cold winter weather, is a flavor that is a.s.sociated with the cooler months. It adds its distinctive taste to these luxurious custards. Use Grade B syrup, which is more deeply flavored than Grade A. And while you can broil the custards to give them their caramelized sugar tops, an inexpensive kitchen torch (or even a propane torch from the hardware shop) is so efficient that you will want to make these often.

2 cups heavy cream6 large egg yolks2/3 cup pure maple syrup, preferably Grade B3 tablespoons bourbon or dark rum6 teaspoons turbinado sugar

- 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325F. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325F.

- 2. Bring the cream to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk the egg yolks and syrup together in a large heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in the hot cream and then the bourbon. Pour equal amounts into six -cup ramekins. Place the ramekins in a roasting pan. Bring the cream to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk the egg yolks and syrup together in a large heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in the hot cream and then the bourbon. Pour equal amounts into six -cup ramekins. Place the ramekins in a roasting pan.

- 3. Place the roasting pan in the oven and pour in enough hot water to come a inch up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custards are barely set (if you remove a ramekin from the oven and give it a gentle shake, the center will jiggle), about 40 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the water and let cool. Place the roasting pan in the oven and pour in enough hot water to come a inch up the sides of the ramekins. Bake until the custards are barely set (if you remove a ramekin from the oven and give it a gentle shake, the center will jiggle), about 40 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the water and let cool.

- 4. Wrap each custard in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. (The custards can be made up to 1 day ahead.) Wrap each custard in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours. (The custards can be made up to 1 day ahead.) - 5. Sprinkle each custard with 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar. Holding the flame about 1 inch above the sugar, wave a kitchen torch back and forth over the sugar to melt it. Serve immediately to savor the contrasting hot and cold temperatures of the topping and the custard. Sprinkle each custard with 1 teaspoon turbinado sugar. Holding the flame about 1 inch above the sugar, wave a kitchen torch back and forth over the sugar to melt it. Serve immediately to savor the contrasting hot and cold temperatures of the topping and the custard.

Maple SyrupTrue maple syrup (as opposed to the artificially flavored glop that has done its best to replace the real thing) is an authentic winter ingredient. The sap from a maple tree can only be collected when the nighttime temperatures dip below freezing, and the daytime temperatures climb above that point. So, there will be snow on the ground when that happens-usually February through April. The temperature fluctuations disturb the moisture content in the tree, and make the sap flow. The collected sap is boiled and cooked down into syrup. To give you an idea of how time-consuming this hands-on process is, it takes about 40 quarts of sap to be boiled down to about 1 quart of syrup. When I learned this, I stopped complaining about maple syrup's high prices.American syrup is divided into two categories: Grade A and Grade B. Within Grade A, which has a gentler maple flavor, are three colors: Light, Medium, and Dark Amber. Grade B has a more p.r.o.nounced maple flavor and is darker than Dark Amber.The state of Vermont, which supplies the bulk of maple syrup in this country, has a slightly different grading system and adds the word "Fancy" to some designations. Vermont maple syrup's main distinction is that it is boiled to a slightly heavier viscosity than the syrup from other states and Canada.Some cooks reserve Grade A for serving with breakfast foods like waffles and pancakes, and use Grade B for baking and cooking. Personally, because I like bold flavors, I prefer Grade B for whenever I use maple syrup. And it is relatively cheaper than Grade A, too.

Grapefruit Cupcakes Makes 12 cupcakes Another dessert that celebrates citrus fruit, the original version of this cake made its debut at Hollywood's famous Brown Derby decades ago. It deserves its celebrity-the sweet-and-sour combination of the cake and frosting with the grapefruit is wonderful. Lately, I've been making cupcakes more often than layer cakes, as the former are easier to decorate and lots of fun to eat out of hand, so I adapted my old recipe into these "cake-ettes."

CUPCAKES1 large pink or red grapefruit1 1/3 cups cake flour1 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt cup plus 2 tablespoons (1 sticks) unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature1 cup granulated sugar4 large eggs, at room temperature1 teaspoon vanilla extract cup whole milk1 tablespoon confectioners' sugarCREAM C CHEESE I ICING6 ounces cream cheese, at soft room temperature2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted2 teaspoons fresh grapefruit juice, as neededPink or red food coloring (optional)

- 1. To make the cupcakes, position a rack in the center of the over and preheat to 350F. Line a 12-cup m.u.f.fin pan with paper cupcake liners. To make the cupcakes, position a rack in the center of the over and preheat to 350F. Line a 12-cup m.u.f.fin pan with paper cupcake liners.

- 2. Grate the zest from half of the grapefruit and set aside. Cut off the peel and segment the grapefruit, working over a bowl to collect the juice. Set the 12 nicest segments (eat the rest of the segments as the cook's treat) and the juice aside. Grate the zest from half of the grapefruit and set aside. Cut off the peel and segment the grapefruit, working over a bowl to collect the juice. Set the 12 nicest segments (eat the rest of the segments as the cook's treat) and the juice aside.

- 3. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Using an electric mixer set on high speed, beat the b.u.t.ter and granulated sugar in a medium bowl until light in color and texture, about 3 minutes. One at a time, beat in the eggs, beating well after each addition, then beat in the reserved grapefruit zest and the vanilla. With the mixer on low speed, in three additions, alternating with two additions of milk, mix in the flour, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Divide evenly among the m.u.f.fin cups. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Using an electric mixer set on high speed, beat the b.u.t.ter and granulated sugar in a medium bowl until light in color and texture, about 3 minutes. One at a time, beat in the eggs, beating well after each addition, then beat in the reserved grapefruit zest and the vanilla. With the mixer on low speed, in three additions, alternating with two additions of milk, mix in the flour, sc.r.a.ping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Divide evenly among the m.u.f.fin cups.

- 4. Bake until the cupcakes are golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes. Remove the cupcakes from the pan and transfer to a wire cake rack and cool completely. Bake until the cupcakes are golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes. Remove the cupcakes from the pan and transfer to a wire cake rack and cool completely.

- 5. Whisk together cup of the reserved grapefruit juice and the confectioners' sugar. Brush the cupcakes with the grapefruit juice mixture. Whisk together cup of the reserved grapefruit juice and the confectioners' sugar. Brush the cupcakes with the grapefruit juice mixture.