Life in Mexico Part 38

26th.--This morning, General Bustamante and his troops arrived at Tlanapantla, the president in a coach. Having met C---n on the road, he stopped for a few moments and informed him that he was on his way to meet General Paredes at the _Lecheria_, where he hoped to come to a composition with him. We listened all day with anxiety, but hearing no firing, concluded that some arrangement had in fact been made. In the evening we walked out on the high-road, and met the president, the governor, and the troops all returning. What securities Bustamante can have received, no one can imagine, but it is certain that they have met without striking a blow.

It was nearly dusk as they pa.s.sed, and the president bowed cheerfully, while some of the officers rode up, and a.s.sured us that all was settled.

Sunday, 27th.--Cavalry, infantry, carriages, cannon, etc., are all pa.s.sing through the village. These are the _p.r.o.nunciados_, with General Paredes, following to Mexico. Feminine curiosity induces me to stop here, and to join the party who are going down to the village to see them pa.s.s....

We have just returned after a sunny walk, and an _inspection_ of the _p.r.o.nunciados_--they are too near Mexico now for me to venture to call them _the rebels_. The infantry, it must be confessed, was in a very ragged and rather drunken condition--the cavalry better, having _borrowed_ fresh horses as they went along. Though certainly not _point-device_ in their accoutrements, their good horses, high saddles, bronze faces, and picturesque attire, had a fine effect as they pa.s.sed along under the burning sun. The sick followed on a.s.ses, and amongst them various masculine women, with _sarapes_ or _mangas_ and large straw hats, tied down with coloured handkerchiefs, mounted on mules or horses. The sumpter mules followed, carrying provisions, camp-beds, etc.; and various Indian women trotted on foot in the rear, carrying their husbands' boots and clothes.

There was certainly no beauty amongst these feminine followers of the camp, especially amongst the mounted Amazons, who looked like very ugly men in a semi-female disguise. The whole party are on their way to Tacubaya, to join Santa Anna! The game is nearly up now. _Check from two knights and a castle_--from Santa Anna and Paredes in Tacubaya, and from Valencia in the citadel. People are flying in all directions, some from Mexico, and others from Guadalupe and Tacubaya....

It appears that Santa Anna was marching from Puebla, feeling his way towards the capital in fear and trembling. At Rio Frio a sentinel's gun having accidentally gone off, the whole army were thrown into the most ludicrous consternation and confusion. Near Oyotla the general's brow cleared up, for here he was met by commissioners from the government, Generals...o...b..goso and Guyame. In a moment the quick apprehension of Santa Anna saw that the day was his own. He gave orders to continue the march with all speed to Tacubaya, affecting to listen to the proposals of the commissioners, amusing them without compromising himself, and offering to treat with them at _Mexicalsingo_. They returned without having received any decided answer, and without, on their part, having given any a.s.surance that his march should not be stopped; yet he has been permitted to arrive unmolested at Tacubaya, where Paredes has also arrived, and where he has been joined by General Valencia; so that the three _p.r.o.nunciado_ generals are now united there to dispose of the fate of the republic....

The same day General Almonte had an interview with Santa Anna, who said with a smile, when he left him, "_Es buen muchacho_ (he is a good lad)--he may be of service to us yet." ...

The three _allied sovereigns_ are now in the archbishop's palace at Tacubaya, from whence they are to dictate to the president and the nation.

But they are, in fact, chiefly occupied with their respective engagements and respective rights. Paredes wishes to fulfil his engagements with the departments of Guanjuato, Jalisco, Zacatecas, Aguas Calientes, Queretaro, etc. In his _plan_ he promised them religious toleration, permission for foreigners to hold property, and so on--the last, in fact, being his favourite project. Valencia, on his side, has his engagements to fulfil with the federalists, and has proposed Senor Pedraza as an integral part of the regeneration--one whose name will give confidence now and ever to his party. General Santa Anna has engagements _with himself_. He has determined to command them all, and allows them to fight amongst themselves, provided he governs. Paredes is, in fact, furious with Valencia, accusing him of having interfered when not wanted, and of having ruined his _plan_, by mingling it with a revolution, with which it had no concern. He does not reflect that Valencia was the person who gave the mortal wound to the government. Had he not revolted, Santa Anna would not have left Perote, nor Paredes himself pa.s.sed on unmolested....

The conservative body has been invited to go to Tacubaya, but has refused.

The majority desire the election of Paredes, or of any one who is not Santa Anna or Valencia; but Paredes himself, while drawing no very flattering portrait of Santa Anna, declares that he is the only man in the republic fit for the presidency--the only man who can make himself obeyed--in short, the only one capable of taking those energetic measures which the safety of the republic requires. He flatters himself that he, at the head of his division, will always keep Santa Anna in check; as if Cortazar, who deserted Bustamante in a moment of difficulty, could be depended on!...

Meanwhile they are fortifying Mexico; and some suppose that Bustamante and his generals have taken the rash determination of permitting all their enemies to unite, in order to destroy them at one blow....

29th.--There being at present an armistice between the contending parties, a doc.u.ment was published yesterday, fruits of the discussion of the allied powers at Tacubaya. It is called "_las bases de Tacubaya_," and being published in Mexico by General Almonte, many expected and hoped that a new _p.r.o.nunciamiento_ would be the consequence; but it has been quietly received, and the federalists welcome it as containing the foundations of federalism and popularity. There are thirteen articles, which are as follow:

By the first--It is the will of the nation that the supreme powers established by the const.i.tution of '36 have ceased, excepting the judicial, which will be limited in its functions to matters purely judicial, conformably to the existing laws.

By the second--A _junta_ is to be named, composed of two deputies from each department, elected by his Excellency the Commander-in-Chief of the Mexican army, Don Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna, in order that they may be entirely free to point out the person who is to hold the executive power provisionally.

By the third--This person is immediately to a.s.sume the executive power, taking an oath in the presence of the junta to set for the welfare of the nation.

By the fourth--The provisional executive power shall in two months convoke a new congress, which, with ample powers, shall engage to reconst.i.tute the nation, as appears most suitable to them.

By the fifth--This congress extraordinary shall reunite in six months after it is convened, and shall solely occupy itself in forming the const.i.tution.

By the sixth--The provincial executive shall answer for its acts before the first const.i.tutional congress.

By the seventh--The provincial executive shall have all the powers necessary for the organization of all the branches of the public administration.

By the eighth--Four Ministers shall be named, of foreign and home relations, of public instruction and industry, of treasury, and of war and marine.

By the ninth--Each department is to have two trustworthy individuals to form a council, which shall give judgment in all matters on which they may be consulted by the executive.

By the tenth--Till this council is named, the _junta_ will fulfil its functions.

By the eleventh--Till the republic is organized, the authorities in the departments which have not opposed, and will not oppose the national will, shall continue.

By the twelfth--The general-in-chief and all the other generals promise to forget all the political conduct of military men or citizens during the present crisis.

By the thirteenth--When three days have pa.s.sed after the expiration of the present truce, if the general-in-chief of the government does not adopt these _bases_, their accomplishment will be proceeded with; and they declare, in the name of the nation, that this general, and all the troops who follow him, and all the so-called authorities which counteract this national will, shall be held responsible for all the Mexican blood that may be uselessly shed, and which shall be upon their heads.

3Oth.--To the astonishment of all parties, Bustamante and his generals _p.r.o.nounced_ yesterday morning for the federal system, and _this_ morning Bustamante has resigned the presidency. His motives seem not to be understood, unless a circular, published by General Almonte, can throw any light upon them.

"Without making any commentary," he says, speaking of the doc.u.ment of Tacubaya, "upon this impudent doc.u.ment, which proposes to the Mexican nation a military government, and the most ominous of dictators.h.i.+ps in favour of the false defender of public liberty, of the most ferocious enemy of every government that has existed in the country, I hasten to send it to you, that you may have it published in this state, where surely it will excite the same indignation as in an immense majority of the inhabitants of the capital, who, jealous of the national glory, and decided to lose everything in order to preserve it, have spontaneously proclaimed the re-establishment of the federal system, the whole garrison having followed this impulse. There is no medium between liberty and tyranny; and the government, relying on the good sense of the nation, which will not see with indifference the slavery that is preparing for it, puts itself in the hands of the states, resolved to sacrifice itself on the altars of the country, or to strengthen its liberty for ever.

"I enclose the renunciation which His Excellency Don Anastas...o...b..stamante makes to the presidency," etc.

3rd October.--Though a very democratic crowd collected, and federalism was proclaimed in Mexico, it appears that no confidence in the government was inspired by this last measure. Some say that had Bustamante alone declared for the federal system, and had sent some effective cavalry to protect the _p.r.o.nunciados_ of that party all through the country, he might have triumphed still. Be that as it may, General Ca.n.a.lizo p.r.o.nounced for federalism on the second of October, but this is not followed up on the part of the Generals Bustamante and Almonte, while the vice-president, _Hechavarria_, has retired to his house, blaming Almonte for having published an official doc.u.ment without his knowledge. Everything is in a state of perfect anarchy and confusion. The leperos are going about armed, and no one remains in Mexico but those who are obliged to do so. It is said that in Tacubaya great uneasiness prevailed as to the result of this new movement, and Santa Anna offered an asylum there to the congress and conservative body, although, by the ultimatum from Tacubaya, published on the twenty-eighth, the const.i.tution of '36 was concluded, and of course these authorities were politically dead.

I had hardly written these words when the roaring of cannon announced that hostilities have recommenced.

5th.--For the last few days, we have been listening to the cannon, and even at this distance, the noise reverberating amongst the hills is tremendous.

The sound is horrible! There is something appalling, yet humbling, in these manifestations of man's wrath and man's power, when he seems to usurp his Maker's attributes, and to mimic his thunder. The divine spark kindled within him, has taught him how to draw these metals from the earth's bosom; how to combine these simple materials, so as to produce with them an effect as terrible as the thunderbolts of heaven. His earthly pa.s.sions have prompted him so to wield these instruments of destruction, as to deface G.o.d's image in his fellow-men. The power is so divine--the causes that impel him to use that power are so paltry! The intellect that creates these messengers of death is so near akin to divinity--the motives that put them in action are so poor, so degrading even to humanity!

On the third, there was a shower of bombs and sh.e.l.ls from the citadel, of which some fell into the palace, and one in our late residence, the mint.

An engagement took place in the Virga; and though Bustamante's party were partially victorious, it is said that neither has much reason to boast of the result. General Espinosa, an old insurgent, arrived at the village last night, and sent to request some horses from the hacienda, which were sent him with all convenient speed, that he might not, according to his usual plan, come and take them. In exchange for some half-dozen farm horses in good condition, he sent half a dozen lean, wretched-looking quadrupeds, the bones coming through their skin, skeletons fit for dissection.

News have just arrived to the effect that last night, at three o'clock, Bustamante suddenly left the city, drawing off all his troops from the turrets, and leaving General Orbegoso in the palace, with one hundred men.

It was generally reported, that he had marched into the interior, to bring about a federal revolution; but it appears that he has arrived at Guadalupe, and there taken up his quarters. A loud cannonading has been kept up since ten o'clock, which keeps us all idle, looking out for the smoke, and counting the number of discharges.

6th.--A messenger has brought the intelligence that there had been more noise and smoke than slaughter; the cannons being planted at such distances, that it was impossible they could do much execution. Numerous bulletins are distributed; some violently in favour of Bustamante and federalism, full of abuse and dread of Santa Anna; others lauding that general to the skies, as the saviour of his country. The _allied_ forces being in numbers double those of Bustamante, there is little doubt of the result.

7th.--_A capitulation_. Santa Anna is triumphant. He made his solemn entry into Mexico last evening, Generals Valencia and Ca.n.a.lizo being at the head of the united forces. Not a solitary _viva_ was heard as they pa.s.sed along the streets; nor afterwards, during his speech in congress. _Te Deum_ was sung this morning in the cathedral, the archbishop in person receiving the new president. We have just returned from Mexico, where we went in search of apartments, and with great difficulty have found rooms in the hotel of the Calle Vegara; but we shall remain here a day or two longer. There is no great difference in the general appearance of the city, except that the shops are reopened, and that most of the windows are broken. Immediately after the morning ceremony, Santa Anna returned to the archbishop's palace at Tacubaya; which residence he prefers to the president's palace in Mexico. His return there, after his triumphant entry into the capital, was very much _en Rio_--a retinue of splendid coaches with fine horses, going at full speed; the general's carriage drawn by four beautiful white horses--(belonging to Don F---- M----; the very same that were sent to bring us into Mexico) brilliant aides-de-camp, and an immense escort of cavalry. Thus concludes the revolution of 1842, though not its effects.

The new ministry, up to this date, are Senor Gomez Pedraza for Foreign and Home Relations; Castillo, _un pet.i.t avocat_ from Guadalajara, said to be a furious federalist and Latin scholar, for Public Instruction; General Tornel for War and Marine; and Senor Dufoo for the Treasury. Valencia proposed Paredes for the War Department; but he declined, saying, "No, no, General--I understand you very well. You want to draw me from off my division."

Those who know Bustamante best, even those who most blame him for indecision and want of energy, agree on one point; that the true motives of his conduct are to be found in his constant and earnest desire to spare human life.

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism-Babies and Nurses from the _Cuna_--Society--Funds--Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent-- Midnight Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria--Fertility--_Nolino Viejo_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico--Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante-- Inconvenience--Abuses in the name of Liberty--Verses--Independence celebrated.

8th.

The Revolution has lasted upwards of thirty-five days; and during that time, though I have written of little else, we have been taking many rides in the environs of this hacienda, some of which were very interesting. We are also making the most of our last few days of Mexican country life. On Thursday we went on horseback with a large party to visit the mill of Santa Monica, an immense hacienda, which tradition, I know not with what truth, supposes to have been in former days the property of Dona Marina; a gift to her from Cortes. At all events, at a later period it belonged to the Augustine monks, then to a Mexican family, who lost their fortune from neglect or extravagance. It was bought by the present proprietor for a comparatively trifling sum, and produces him an annual rent of thirty-five thousand dollars upon an average. The house is colossal, and not more than one-third of it occupied. The granaries, of solid masonry, contain fourteen thousand loads of corn--they were built about two hundred and fifty years ago. From all the neighbouring haciendas, and even from many distant estates, the corn is sent to this mill, and is here ground, deposited, and sold on account of the owner, a certain portion deducted for the proprietor of Santa Monica. It seems strange that they should have no windmills here, in a country colonized by Spain, where, according to _Cervantes_, they were common enough. The house is in a commanding situation, and the views of the mountains, especially from the upper windows, are very grand. In some of the old, unoccupied apartments, are some good copies of old paintings, the copies themselves of ancient date. There is the Angel announcing to Elizabeth the birth of Saint John; a Holy Family, from Murillo; the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah, which is one of the best; particularly the figures in the foreground, of Lot and his family. Lot's wife stands in the distance, a graceful figure just crystallized, her head turned in the direction of the doomed city. I looked into every dark corner, in hopes of finding some old daub representing Dona Marina, but without success. There is the strangest contrast possible between these half-abandoned palaces, and their actual proprietors. We had beautiful riding-horses belonging to the hacienda, and enjoyed everything but the exceeding heat of the sun, as we galloped home about one o'clock....

As a specimen of rather a remarkable anachronism, we were told that a justice in the village of Tlanapantla, speaking the other day of General Bustamante, said, "Poor man--he is persecuted by all parties, just as Jesus Christ was by the _Jansenists_, the _Sadducees_, and the _Holy Fathers of the Church_!" What a curious _olla podrida_ the poor man's brain must be!

In the midst of the revolution, we were amused by a very peaceful sight--all the nurses belonging to the _Cuna_, or Foundling hospital, coming from the different villages to receive their monthly wages. Amongst the many charitable inst.i.tutions of Mexico, there appears to me (in spite of the many prejudices existing against such inst.i.tutions) none more useful than this. These otherwise unfortunate children, the offspring of abject poverty or guilt, are left at the gate of the establishment, where they are received without any questions being asked; and from that moment, they are protected and cared for, by the best and n.o.blest families in the country.

The members of the society consist of the first persons in Mexico, male and female. The men furnish the money; the women give their time and attention.

There is no fixed number of members, and amongst them are the ladies in whose house we now live. The _President_ is the Dowager Marquesa de Vivanco. When the child has been about a month in the _Cuna_, it is sent, with an Indian nurse, to one of the villages near Mexico. If sick or feeble it remains in the house, under the more immediate inspection of the society. These nurses have a _fiadora_, a responsible person, who lives in the village, and answers for their good conduct. Each nurse is paid four dollars per month, a sufficient sum to induce any poor Indian, with a family, to add one to her stock. Each lady of the society has a certain number under her peculiar care, and gives their clothes, which are poor enough, but according to the _village fas.h.i.+on_. The child thus put out to nurse, is brought back to the _Cuna_ when weaned, and remains under the charge of the society for life; but of the hundreds and tens of hundreds that have pa.s.sed through their hands, scarcely has one been left to grow up in the _Cuna_. They are constantly adopted by respectable persons, who, according to their inclination or abilities, bring them up either as favoured servants, or as their own children; and the condition of a "_huerfano_," an orphan, as a child from the hospital is always called, is perfectly upon a level with that of the most petted child of the house. The nurses in the _Cuna_ are paid eight dollars per month.

Upwards of a hundred nurses and babies arrived on Sunday, taking up their station on the gra.s.s, under the shade of a large ash-tree in the courtyard.

The nurses are invariably bronze; the babies generally dark, though there was a sprinkling of fair English or German faces amongst them, with blue eyes and blonde hair, apparently not the growth of Mexican land. Great attention to cleanliness cannot be hoped for from this cla.s.s, but the babies looked healthy and contented. Each nurse had to present a paper which had been given her for that purpose, containing her own name, the name of the child, and that of the lady under whose particular charge she was. Such as-"_Maria Josifa_-baby _Juanita de los Santos_-belonging to the _Senora Dona Matilde F----_, given on such a day to the charge of Maria Josefa." Constantly the nurse had lost this paper, and impossible for her to remember more than her own name; as to who gave her the baby, or when she got it, was entirely beyond her powers of calculation. However, then stept forward the _fiadora_ Dona Tomaso, a sensible-looking village dame, grave and important as became her situation, and gave an account of the nurse and the baby, which being satisfactory, the copper was swept into the nurse's lap, and she and her baby went away contented. It was pleasant to see the kindness of the ladies to these poor women; how they praised the care that had been taken of the babies; admired the strong and healthy ones, which indeed nearly all were; took an interest in those who looked paler, or less robust; and how fond and proud the nurses were of their charges; and how little of a hired, mercenary, _hospital_ feeling existed among them all....

A judge in the village, who comes here frequently, a pleasant and well-informed man, amused us this evening by recounting to us how he had once formed a determination to become a monk, through sudden fear. Being sent by government to Toluca, some years ago, to inquire into the private political conduct of a _Yorkino_, he found that his only means of remaining there unsuspected, and also of obtaining information, was to lodge in the convent of the Carmelite friars. The padres accommodated him with a cell, and a.s.sisted him very efficaciously in his researches. But the first night, being alone in his cell, the convent large and dreary, and the wind howling lugubriously over the plains, he was awakened at night by a deep sepulchral voice, apparently close to his ear, tolling forth these words: