McKinlay's Journal of Exploration in the Interior of Australia Part 8

Friday, March 7.

Wind changing all round except from the south and clouds gathering; with lots of black macaws screeching out in all directions. I hope they are not again the forerunners of a downpour, as they were of the last. The meat appears to be drying nicely, and will have it taken up this evening.

It is very sultry.

Sat.u.r.day, March 8.

Wind from west round to north and sultry with a good many fleecy clouds; shall finish shoeing the horses today with the exception of one which will require a couple of days' work first, being at present rather fresh (a good fault) and if all is well will make a start on Monday morning.

The stony hills and slopes (that from every appearance, a few days ago, from their thorough bronzed and desert appearance, one would suppose gra.s.s never grew) are now being clothed in many places with a nice green coating of gra.s.s, and shortly will give this part quite a lively appearance, very different indeed from what it was when I first saw it, then it was as desolate a looking spot as one could picture to himself.

In a couple or three months' time from this date one could with little difficulty (I am almost certain) start with a herd of any description of stock from the northern settled parts of South Australia and go right across the continent to whatever point he might think fit by this route, but I will know more about it shortly. This bullock gave us of dried meat about 116 pounds, apparently well dried, besides what meat was used with the bones to make soup. I hope it may keep well.

Sunday, March 9.

At Escape, or Number 7, Camp--will be all ready for a start in the morning. Wind north-east.

Monday, March 10.

Wind north and east, fresh breeze. Bullocks rather refractory at being packed, consequently late before we started. The journey today was over stony hills and flats, crossing several small creeks from the more remote hills, some running tributaries of Burke Creek for twelve and a half miles, and for three and three-quarter miles further over similar country, but more flat as we are now approaching the creek, and camped on the outside of a flat with some water and a fair supply of feed. I was here before the pack animals arrived but, after waiting for them a short time, found that in some of the small watercourses the water seemed to be driving, as I thought with the strength of the wind as is not unusual, and took for the time no further notice; the horses came up first and were unpacked, the camels were some time after and did not arrive until after I had returned from a ride to the top of a hill further up the creek, and at which place I went down to the water and to my astonishment found that the whole valley was a perfect sea, rising fast; on my return to where I had fixed the camp I found that the water had approached rather too close to be comfortable, and on the arrival of the camels had them unpacked some distance out on the top of a mound of stones and had all the horse gear removed there also; the bullocks did not get to camp till a little after sunset--one of them was so much trouble that I will do without him rather than be pestered with him, and put his load on one of the horses. The camels travelled over the stones with their loads apparently quite unconcerned; they are undoubtedly the best of all animals for this kind of work, they eat anything nearly, from the gumtree down to the smallest herb, and then come and lie down beside you, whereas horses and bullocks, if there be any lack of feed, will ramble all over the country; with sheep and camels one could travel all over any practicable part of the continent and keep them in condition.

Tuesday, March 11.

Where we had the packs removed from last night and all over the flats is a perfect sea of water, and even up within less than a foot of where I slept. From the creek having fallen not far from our last camp some days since I was under the impression that I would find it considerably down the further I advanced up its course; but now I find that the cause of its fall then was purely local from the tributaries immediately about and above having ceased with the rain to throw in a supply to keep it up. It now shows me that this creek must come from some very considerable distance; and I trust it may turn out to come from the north instead of too much east. It appears from where I was last night to incline towards the north. Wind from east-south-east. Started for a gap in the range over top of a stony range to a creek. High table-top ranges in the distance, north and south of 64 degrees; then to top of red sandhill; then for three and three-quarter miles to top of sandhill over flat stony plains with plenty of water and feed. From this point a perfect sea is before me. Came to camp on Myall Creek after pa.s.sing two table-topped hills on left and a peak and table-topped hill on right; beyond the camp plenty of feed and water. Today pa.s.sed a native camp, the fire still burning, and their tracks quite fresh; but did not see them. One of the bullocks did not arrive in camp; he knocked up and charged the men and they were consequently obliged to leave him. He was pulled about a good deal the day before in packing him so would be no use to kill him, besides I could not carry him at present; he may come up during the night, if so he may perhaps drive loose and will kill him when wanted.

Wednesday, March 12.

The bullock did not come up during the night so will be obliged to leave him behind. Started on bearing of 55 degrees for two and one-eighth miles and crossed several myall creeks; over stony ground; the flood close by obliged to change course to bearing of 97 degrees for three-quarters of a mile, then bearing of 91 degrees for two and a quarter miles over low chopping slaty and stony hills and several creeks; then bearing of 84 1/2 degrees for eight miles over stony ground, very bad travelling; then on bearing of 77 degrees for half a mile to camp on a frizzly-barked tree creek. Pa.s.sed several of the same kind of creeks today with some timber; it is very hard and some of it (from three to four feet in diameter) would make splendid furniture. Another of the bullocks dropped down when within two hundred yards of the camp, apparently affected by the sun--although it did not seem to me so very hot, although it was sultry.

I hope he will be able to go on in the morning or at this rate we shall soon lose them all. Wind has chopped round from north-east to south this afternoon and looks very much like rain. From top of a hill about a mile from here looking over a sea of water, two openings to be seen in the sandhills beyond, much as if one or other was the proper course of the creek; one at 355 1/2 degrees, with heavy timber, and one at 10 degrees, without so much timber but broader and more like. Natives raising a great smoke in the distance about five or six miles west of the 355 1/2 degrees opening. Blew strong in the evening and the rain went off.

Thursday, March 13.

Camp 10. Clouds all gone; wind north-east. The bullock unable to get up so I shall be obliged very reluctantly to leave him behind; but perhaps I may be driven back this way and he will then be of use. Started for gap in range bearing 120 degrees for four and a half miles over very stony country. On table-topped hill on the left, and the ma.s.s of ranges on the left, they look like the Reaphooks (hills) in the north of Adelaide at Marrana. I have called the main ma.s.s of ranges Wills Ranges, after the unfortunate gentleman who lost his life with poor Burke; then bearing 139 degrees for one and three-quarter miles; then a bearing of 155 degrees for six and a half miles, pa.s.sing along and over sandhills and rich pasture, with cane swamps full of water, to south-east termination of sandhills. Thousands of flock pigeons, some teal, and a new duck. They have here commenced laying; several pigeons' nests were found as we pa.s.sed along, and a duck's with eight or ten eggs in it; plenty of quail and other small birds. Saw a bustard in the midst of the sandhills which bear 340 degrees. To the north of this camp a short distance is a very strange round stone hill, capped with larger stone, which I have called Elliott's k.n.o.b. One native was seen today on the top of one of the stony ridges, but did not get within speaking distance of him; many tracks were discernible for the last eight miles. From top of one of the stone hills to right of gap in range a perfect sea was before me from 298 degrees round north to 95 degrees, with nothing but here and there the tops of trees that line the creek only discernible, and sand and rock hills forming islands; and in the distance to north and west the hills that bound the vast expanse of water appear like islands far off in the ocean.

Friday, March 14.

Camp 11. Started on bearing of 90 degrees for five miles to top of long stony ridges. For the first two miles through swamp and water and sandhill, leaving on left hand a very nice lake, and on the right some little distance off a sand-ridge running along swamp; in the distance south is timber denoting a creek which forms this swamp and lakes--the remaining three miles of the five very stony and bad travelling.

Immediately beyond me at the end of the five miles stretches a large dry bed of a lake eastward, with a considerable swamp to south round to 80 degrees, following the foot of a well-defined range, at the north-east termination of which range, visible from here, are several smaller and larger table-topped hills and gaps; then on bearing of 80 degrees, pa.s.sing through an arm of dry lake; good travelling for nine and a half miles and camped on small sandhill at a claypan; the flood from three to four miles off to west of north; sandhills ahead.

Sat.u.r.day, March 15.

Camp 12, or packsaddle camp, having left one of the bullock's packsaddles on a tree. Bearing 48 degrees for three and a half miles over very heavy country with spinifex and abundance of other gra.s.ses; one and a half miles further same course over stony and sandy rises. A splendid tier of table-topped hills in the distance east and north; bearing of 65 degrees for two and a half miles, then bearing of 20 degrees over a flooded splendid swamp, princ.i.p.ally, four and a half miles to a box creek where I will kill Ranger the bullock as he cannot travel. Distance travelled today twelve miles.

Sunday, March 16.

Went to have a view from the princ.i.p.al range eastward, the first and greater part of the road over magnificent pasture, nearer the hills very stony; found the hills distant twenty-one miles; from top of a large table-topped one I had a splendid view; the tier of ranges I am now on bear to east of north and west of south but are very irregular, many spurs running off from main range and forming a vast number of crown-shaped tops and peaked hills, with innumerable creeks draining the country from east and south to west and north and joining the main creek.

Twenty-one miles travelled today bearing 62 1/2 degrees; from this hill another tier of similar hills is seen in the distance with a very large creek draining the country between this and that, flowing northward, and then west round the north end of the tier I am now upon, the south-west end of distant range bears 125 degrees, about twenty-five to thirty miles off, and the north-east end, dimly seen in the distance, bears 65 degrees, which tier of ranges and creek I have called Browne Creek after J.H. Browne, Esquire, of b.o.o.boorowie, South Australia. The range I am on and the tier northward to where the creek (Browne's) pa.s.ses round the end of them I have called Ellar's tier of table-tops; the tier south of where I now am I have called Warren's tier of table-tops after my respected friend George Warren, Esquire, of Gawler for whose kindness I am much indebted; the plains or downs east and north of those ranges I have called The Downs of Plenty as here there is everything one could wish in travelling over a new country. I would have gone over to the distant ranges but unfortunately my horse threw one of her shoes and I was obliged to camp at a creek under the hills for the night. The creek I have now camped on I have named Ranger's Creek after our bullock killed here.

Monday, March 17.

Returned to camp; on my way out to the hills yesterday saw three natives, but they would not let me approach, they were busy collecting seeds from the different gra.s.ses; the beef seemingly drying well but will have to give it another day.

Tuesday, March 18.

In camp; will pack up the beef tonight and start in the morning.

Afternoon packed the beef, it gave us 162 pounds of well-dried meat and I hope it may keep good.

Wednesday, March 19.

Started about 10.30 and went about fourteen miles; pa.s.sed through some magnificent country, one fine plain alone extended for several miles and well gra.s.sed; in the distance could be seen high ranges. The weather magnificent and quite tropical, the perfume from the flowers is quite refres.h.i.+ng. Cut a tree with 13 MK (conjoined), 15 to 19-3-62. Distance travelled today fifteen miles. Camped on a creek, fine water.

Thursday, March 20.

Left the camp about 10 a.m. and travelled till we struck a large creek and went on over fine flats and sandhills covered with most luxuriant gra.s.s and several descriptions of creepers. The blue convolvulus was also seen today for the first time, also a most beautiful small blue flower with a dark purple eye. Plenty of pigeons today, some few nests were found on the march. The mosquitoes very bad at this camp. A native was brought into camp by Mr. Hodgkinson this evening and we decorated him with necklaces and gave him a feed. Distance travelled today fifteen miles.

Friday, March 21.

Marked a small b.a.s.t.a.r.d sandalwood tree this morning 11 MK (conjoined), 20-3-62. Our journey today was over nothing but red sandhills course about north-north-east; had to cross a large sheet of water. Eighty duck eggs were found today by the men. The country round about now is very fine indeed, gra.s.s as high as the horses' knees. We now every day find fresh shrubs and flowers, everything reminding one of the tropics.

Bullocks and sheep not in tonight, mosquitoes bad here indeed. Last night was certainly the most infernal night I ever pa.s.sed, never slept. The mosquitoes were fearful although fires were lighted all round us, each man having his private bonfire, yet the mosquitoes were not to be frightened, they would buzz and bite; rolled our heads up in our blankets and oilskins but in a second or two the little brutes were under and buzzing away. The air also seemed impregnated with the little tormentors.

Camped on claypan with little and bad water. Bullocks not up nor sheep.

Distance travelled about sixteen miles.

Sat.u.r.day, March 22.

Bullocks did not come up last night so have had to send back today, consequently spelled. Thunder and a couple of showers in the afternoon at which time the bullocks arrived, having strayed far.

Sunday, March 23.

Claypan camp. At five and a quarter miles cleared sandhills bearing 17 degrees, flooded and stony flats with sand. At six and three-quarter miles crossed a box and myall creek. At seven and three-quarter miles to top of sandhill pa.s.sed sandy bed of myall creek from hills. At ten and three-quarter miles crossed a box and myall creek, running north and west; plenty of water in creeks, and on both sides of course pa.s.sing stony flats and undulations, well gra.s.sed. At thirteen and a half miles a white gum flat with not many stones and trees not large. At fifteen and a half miles over stony undulations well gra.s.sed to top of a myall creek followed it down west one mile to plenty of water and feed.

Camped--sixteen and a half miles. At three miles and up to four and a half after starting flood close by on left.

Monday, March 24.

Camp 17. Bearing of 355 degrees. At three and three-quarter miles crossed a myall creek or flat--broad, with several dry channels from north-north-east, draining a tier of fine ranges on the east--the only ones now visible to north or east--which I have called Scott's ranges (the tops of which, especially the northern one, are well wooded) after John Scott, Esquire, of Adelaide, a gentleman to whom I am much indebted, in not only giving the use of two of his best horses for my use during the time the expedition would be absent, but in also kindly requesting me to call at his station in the North and take from it what I might consider of service to me. Over gentle slopes, some stony. Saw fifteen emu on one of the plains so have named the plain and undulations Emu Downs, to a box creek with abundance of water and feed at seventeen and a half miles. No timber except on the ranges and creeks. This appears a small creek to many that are in sight to north and west. A range continues to north-north-east. The creek from eastward to westward and southward joining other larger creeks a few miles west of this. The whole of the country pa.s.sed over today is excellent pastoral country. From this camp the north-east termination of Scott's Ranges, ending in two detached round-looking hills, bears 113 1/2 degrees, about six to ten miles off.

Tuesday, March 25.

Started on bearing of 355 degrees. At two and a half miles crossed a box creek with plenty of water from north-east to west and south, sweeping considerably towards latter quarter. At fourteen and a half miles to box creek, dry where I struck it. Went on bearing of 238 degrees for two miles to a creek with plenty of water and camped. Sixteen and a half miles over beautifully gra.s.sed, very gently sloping and undulating country; rising ground seen to the west in the distance--flood must be some distance off. New hawk seen (light-coloured) this afternoon.

Wednesday, March 26.

Camp 19. Started on bearing of 315 degrees to get closer to course of main creek which I have observed nothing of for the last two days.

Beautiful weather; heavy dews at night. At ten miles struck and crossed a box creek where it empties itself into a flat; pa.s.sing over splendid country, the latter part in the small watercourse rather stony and sandy.

A quarter of a mile further on is another box creek, and between it and the first creek is a perfectly boggy swamp full of water, as well as the creek, so have to change course to avoid some of it; bearing of 55 1/2 degrees, over plain for two miles; then bearing 7 1/2 degrees for four and a half miles, first part of it magnificent feed, the rest a mora.s.s--will have to clear out of this to the east for some distance to round it. Any traveller caught here in rainy weather such as has been lately deluging these vast plains would to a certainty be washed away--there is not a knoll six feet high within the range of the eye.

Journey today about sixteen and a half miles from point to point, but I made it considerably more in trying to get across the swamp and being obliged to return. A small hill from top of a tree at camp beyond what appears the main creek in the distance bears 309 degrees; another small one is west and south of that--no other rising ground to speak of visible, except in the direction we came from and a little east of it.

Thursday, March 27.

20, or Carbine Creek camp--having left one behind there on a tree, which has lost the hammer and is unfit for service. Bearing of 29 degrees for nine miles over swampy country with splendid feed, belts of timber on the right or east of course, studded in various places, denoting waterholes; then bearing of 15 degrees for one and a quarter miles where I got bogged in a creek; got out of it again with a good deal of difficulty and found that course quite impracticable; after trying the ground for a couple of miles found it nothing but a bog, so changed course to 54 degrees for half a mile over sound ground, and encamped on a small creek with a perfect meadow of gra.s.s all around. From the top of a tree hills in the distance to north and south of east discernible--rising ground near, which I will make for in the morning. I went out this evening and found that it is good travelling and will thus allow me to get more in a northerly direction than of late. Cannot get within miles as yet of the main creek on account of the boggy nature of the ground--there appear to be innumerable timbered creeks between this and that, all running into it--the water here, even on the level plains, is in places running a stream. One of the camels got bogged on the road today and had to be dug out with much difficulty.

Friday, March 28.