The Cruise of the Land-Yacht "Wanderer" Part 1

The Cruise of the Land-Yacht "Wanderer"

by Gordon Stables.

PREFACE.

I need, I believe, do little more herein, than state that the following pages were written on the road, on the _coupe_ of my caravan, and from day to day. First impressions, it must be admitted, are not always infallible, but they are ever fresh.

I have written from my heart, as I saw and thought; and I shall consider myself most fortunate and happy if I succeed in making the reader think in a measure as I thought, and feel as I felt.

It is but right to state that many of the chapters have appeared in _The Leisure Hour_.

Some of the ill.u.s.trations are from photographs kindly lent me by Messrs.

Valentine and Sons, of Dundee; others from rough sketches of my own; while the frontispiece, "Waiting till the Kettle Boils," is by Mr Eales, of Twyford.

Gordon Stables.

The "Wanderer" Caravan, Touring in Yorks.h.i.+re, _August_ 1886.

CHAPTER ONE.

INTRODUCTORY--WRITTEN BEFORE STARTING.

No man who cannot live in his house on wheels, cook, eat, and sleep in, on, or under it, can say that he is cut out for a gipsy life. But to do this you require to have your temporary home well arranged--a perfect _multum in parvo_, a _domus in minima_. The chief faults of the old-fas.h.i.+oned caravan are want of s.p.a.ce--two ordinary-sized adults can hardly move in it without trampling on each other's toes--general stuffiness, heat from sky or stove, or probably both combined, and a most disagreeable motion when on the road. This latter is caused by want of good springs, and errors in the general build.

"The man who is master of a caravan," says a writer, "enjoys that perfect freedom which is denied to the tourist, whose movements are governed by the time-table. He can go where he likes, stop when he lists, go to bed at the hour which suits him best, or get up or lie daydreaming, knowing there is not a train to catch nor a waiter's convenience to consult. If the neighbourhood does not suit the van-dweller, all he has to do is to hitch in the horses and move to more eligible quarters. The door of his hotel is always open. There is no bill to pay nor anybody to 'remember;' and, if the accommodation has been limited, the lodger cannot complain of the charges. In a caravan one has all the privacy of a private residence, with the convenience of being able to wheel it about with a facility denied to the western settler, who s.h.i.+fts his 'shanty' from the 'lot' which he has leased to the more distant one which he has bought. In the van may, for all the pa.s.ser-by can discover, be a library and drawing-room combined, or it may be bedroom and dining-room in one, though, as the pioneers in this mode of touring sleep under canvas, we may presume that they find the accommodation indoors a little stuffy."

Now, this sounds very well, but at the present sitting I have my doubts if a gipsy's--even a gentle-man-gipsy's--life be altogether as independent and suns.h.i.+ny as the sentences represent them to be.

About going where he likes, for instance? Are there not certain laws of the road that forbid the tarrying by the way of caravan folks, for a longer period than that necessary to water and feed a horse or look at his feet? By night, again, he may spy a delightfully retired common, with nothing thereon, perhaps, except a flock of gabbling geese and a superannuated cart-horse, and be tempted to draw up and on it, but may not some duty-bound police man stroll quietly up, and order him to put-to and "move on?"

Again, if the neighbourhood does not suit, then the caravan-master may certainly go elsewhere, _if_ the horses be not too tired or dead lame.

To be sure, there is inside a caravan all the privacy to be desired; but immediately outside, especially if drawn up on a village common, it may be noisy enough.

As regards going to bed and getting up when he pleases, the owner of a caravan is his own master, unless he chooses to carry the ideas and customs of a too-civilised life into the heart of the green country with him, and keep plenty of company.

Methinks a gentleman gipsy ought to have a little of the hermit about him. If he does not love nature and quiet and retirement, he is unsuited for a caravan life, unless, indeed, he would like to make every day a gala day, and the whole tour a round of pleasurable excitement--in other words, a _farce_.

It is, however, my impression at the present moment that the kind of life I trust to lead for many months to come, might be followed by hundreds who are fond of a quiet and somewhat romantic existence, and especially by those whose health requires bracing up, having sunk below par from overwork, overworry, or over much pleasure-seeking, in the reckless way it is the fas.h.i.+on to seek it.

Only as yet I can say nothing from actual experience. I have to _go_ on, the reader has to _read_ on, ere the riddle be solved to our mutual satisfaction.

CHAPTER TWO.

THE CARAVAN ITSELF--FIRST TRIALS--GETTING HORSED.

"A horse, a horse, my kingdom for a horse!"

Travelling through the romantic little village of Great Marlow one summer's day in a pony-trap, I came suddenly on a row of caravans drawn up on the roadside. Some flying swings were started just as I approached, and the unwonted sight, with the wild whooping and noise, startled my horse. He s.h.i.+ed, and made a rather thoughtless but very determined attempt to enter a draper's shop. This resulted in damage enough to the trap to necessitate my staying an hour or two for repairs.

I would have a look at the caravans, at all events.

There was one very pretty little one, and, seeing me admire it, the owner, who stood by, kindly asked if I cared to look inside. I thanked him, and followed him up the steps. It proved to be a good thing of the cla.s.s, but inside the s.p.a.ce was limited, owing to the extraordinary breadth of the bed and size of the stove.

I asked the address of the builder, however, and wrote to him for an estimate. This was sent, but the penmans.h.i.+p and diction in which it was couched sent no thrill of pleasure through me. Here is a sentence: "Wich i can build you a wagon as ill cary you anyweres with 1 orse for eity pounds, i 'as built a power o' pretty wagons for gipsies, an' can refer you to lots on 'em for reference."

Well, to be sure, there is no necessity for a builder of caravans being a cla.s.sical scholar, but there was a sad absence of romance about this letter; the very word "wagon" was not in itself poetic. Why could not the man have said "caravan"? I determined to consult a dear old friend of mine who knows everything, C.A. Wheeler, to wit (the clever author of "Sportasc.r.a.piana.")

Why, he said in reply, did not I go straight to the Bristol Waggon Company? They would do the thing well, at all events, and build my caravan from my own drawings.

This was good advice. So I got a few sheets of foolscap and made a few rough sketches, and thought and planned for a night or two, and thus the Wanderer came into existence--on paper.

Now that the caravan is built and fitted she is so generally admired by friends and visitors, that I may be forgiven for believing that a short description of her may prove not uninteresting to the general reader.

Let us walk round her first and foremost and view the exterior.

A glance will show you (see ill.u.s.tration) that The Saloon Caravan "Wanderer" is by no means of small dimensions. From stem to stern, without shafts or pole, she measures nearly twenty feet, her height from the ground being about eleven feet, and her breadth inside six feet fully.

For so long a carriage you will naturally say the wheels seem low.

This is true; the hind wheels are little over four feet, but they are _under_ the carriage. Had they been tall they must have protruded beyond her considerably, and this would have given the Wanderer a breadth of beam which would have been awkward on the road, and rendered it impossible to get her through many gateways.

I might have had a semicircle or hollow in the sides of the caravan, in which high wheels could have moved without entailing a broader beam, but this would have curtailed the floor s.p.a.ce in the after-cabin, on which my valet has to sleep athwarts.h.i.+ps, and this arrangement was therefore out of the question.

But she must be very heavy? Not for her size and strength. Although solid mahogany all round outside and lined with softer wood, she scaled at Bristol but 30 hundredweight, and loaded-up she will be under two tons. The loading-up includes master, valet, coachman, and a large Newfoundland dog, not one of whom need be inside except "coachee" on a stiff hill.

Obeying my instructions, then, the builders made her as light as was consistent with strength. The wood too is of the best and best seasoned that could be had. A firm that builds Pullman cars, not only for England but for America, has always a good supply of old wood on hand.

But if the Wanderer does not look light she certainly looks elegant.

Polished mahogany with black and gold mouldings and shutters-- jalousies--leaves little to be longed for as regards outside show, neither does it give a gay appearance. The wheels and underworks are dark chocolate, picked out with vermilion. The only "ornament" about her is the device on the side, and this is simply a sketch of the badge of my uniform cap--crown, anchor, and laurel leaves,--with a scroll of ribbon of the Robertson tartan, my mother's plaid. This looks quite as pretty and costs less than armorial bearings.

In the ill.u.s.tration the fore part of the caravan is visible. There is a splashboard, an unusual luxury in carriages of this kind. The _coupe_ is very roomy; the Newfoundland lies here when he likes, and a chair can be placed on it, or if rugs and a cus.h.i.+on are put down it forms a delightful lounge on a fine day, and this need in no way interfere with the comfort of either the driver or the great dog. The driver's seat is also the corn-bin, and holds two bushels. From the broad panel at the other side of the door a board lets down at pleasure, and this forms still another seat for an extra pa.s.senger besides myself.

It may also be noticed that the front part of the roof protrudes, forming ample protection against sun and rain. This canopy is about three feet deep.

The brake, which is handy to the driver, is a very powerful one, and similar to those used on tram-cars. There is also an iron skid to lock one wheel if required on going down hill, and a roller besides for safety in stopping when going up hill.

There is a door behind right in the centre, similar in appearance to the front door, with morsels of stained gla.s.s let in at the upper corners.

Both doors have light shutters that are put up at night.

Under the rear door the broad steps are s.h.i.+pped, and at each side is a little mahogany flap table to let down. These the valet finds very handy when was.h.i.+ng up. Beneath each of these flaps and under the carriage is a drawer to contain tools, dusters, blacking-brushes, and many a little article, without which comfort on the road could hardly be secured.

Under the caravan are fastened by chain and padlock a light long ladder, a framework used in holding out our after-awning or tent, a spade, and the buckets. But there is also s.p.a.ce enough here in which to hang a hammock.