Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh Part 3

_Uttakiyok_ was one of the two Esquimaux, from whom, in the year 1800, we received the first distinct information respecting the Ungava country and its inhabitants, by which the desire, excited both at home and here in Labrador, to visit the northern Esquimaux, was greatly strengthened, and led to a resolution, if possible, to take early steps to accomplish this object, (See page 3).

Two years ago, he had been on a trading voyage to Okkak, from Killinek, where he then dwelt, and intended to return, in the summer following, to Ungava, his native country, but an illness, which befel his son, detained him. This intelligence was received at Okkak during last winter, when we sent him word, that as we purposed paying his countrymen a visit, we wished him to wait for us, that he might conduct us through the straits of Killinek. But having heard nothing further concerning him, we remained in uncertainty respecting his intentions. We were the more thankful to G.o.d, who had disposed the heart of this man cheerfully to accept of the commission, and wait to be our guide, an office which he performed with a degree of faithfulness and disinterested kindness, which claims our admiration and grat.i.tude.

While we were here waiting for a favourable opportunity to pa.s.s the straits, which were yet filled with ice, he behaved in the kindest manner to us and our Esquimaux. Though a heathen, he regularly attended our morning and evening wors.h.i.+p, and declared to Jonathan, that he also intended to be converted to Jesus, and if we would form a settlement in his country, would come and live with us, and was sure, that many of his countrymen would do the same.

Around his tent, a considerable extent of rock was covered with seal's flesh, and in the hollows were pools of oil. Ten bags of blubber were standing ready for sale; and with a view to shew him our good-will, Brother Kohlmeister bartered with him for three of them, which were hid under the stones, to take them with us, if practicable, on our return.

26th. We put up our three tents; Uttakiyok's people had three more. Wind N.W. We were now near the entrance into the Ikkerasak, (or straits), which separate the island of Killinek and two or three other large islands from the continent. They stretch to the N. to the distance of about 12 or 15 English miles, the outer one forming Cape Chudleigh. To the N.W. of the cape lie some other small islands, called by the Esquimaux _Tutsaets_, and N.N.E. of these, the great island _Resolution_, called _Igloarsuk_, on which, as we were informed, many Esquimaux reside. The Tutsaets were discernible from this place, but not the latter, which however, as the Esquimaux say, may be seen from the Tutsaets. We guessed at its situation, from the clouds hanging over it in the North quarter. The weather was, as might be expected on the northern coast of America, foggy, rainy, and cold, and our small stove, which we brought into the tent, was of great use to us during our stay in this place.

27th. Rain and wind violent, and prevented our proceeding. We caught some _Pitsiolaks_, (awks), and a brace of young puffins, which, with the addition of some salt meat, made excellent broth.

28th. The weather was fair, but the wind still blowing hard at N.W.

Brother Kmoch went to Uttakiyok's tent, and sitting down with him at the point of Oppernavik, and looking down the coast as far as Kakkeviak, got him to name all the bays, points, and islands, from Kakkeviak to Oppernavik, of which he made minutes. The distance between the two points or headlands may be guessed at, by the time of sailing with a strong leading wind, namely three hours and a half. Coming up from Kakkeviak, to the E. lie three islands, _Kikkertorsoak_, _Imilialuk_, rather less in view, and _Nessetservik_. Having pa.s.sed these, there follows a chain of small, naked islands, not very high, stretching towards Killinek. To the W. near Kakkeviak lies _Uglek_; then a bay, _Nulluk_, and farther to the left another bay, _Tellek_, (right arm).

The country along these bays is called _Attanarsuk_. Now follow the bay _Ikkorliarsuk_, the lower point of _Tikkerarsuk_, the bay _Annivagtok_, and _Kakkeviak_, a high promontory, (not to be confounded with the other Kakkeviak, where we struck on the rock. This promontory is only about four miles from Oppernavik to the S.E.). Then follow two small bays, _Anniovariktok_ and _Sangmiyok_, then the promontory _Ukkuliakartok_, (meaning a headland between two bays), and the bay _Tunnusuksoak_. Next, the last point on the continent, forming the south entrance to the Ikkerasak. The abovementioned chain of barren islands is called by the Esquimaux _Naviarutsit_, and besides them some low rocks, _Nuvurutsit_.

The island of Killinek is about nine miles long, and five broad, high, and forming the north side of the straits. Another Ikkerasak, (or strait), divides it from an island called Kikkertorsoak, (a common name for an island), of considerable height, but not so long as _Killinek_: one, or perhaps more islands follow, narrowing E. and W. and forming Cape Chudleigh.

To-day there was much ice both in the strait and at sea. We went to the nearest island, where Brother Kohlmeister took an observation, and found our situation to be 60 16'.

30th. It blew a hard gale from the N.E., rained hard, and as the ice now began to enter our harbour, we were busily engaged in keeping it off the boat.

31st. Imagining to-day that the straits would be free from ice, we resolved to attempt to pa.s.s them, and set sail. But it soon became evident, that there was still plenty of ice in the neighbourhood, and the wind setting to the N.E. with fogs, we were obliged to return.

Suspecting also that the easterly wind would again drive the ice into our former harbour at Oppernavik, we ran into a short pa.s.s, between that and a small island called Ammitok, where we anch.o.r.ed under shelter of the island. The sequel proved, that we had for once acted with sound judgment and foresight, for our former anchoring-ground was soon filled with ice; and during the night large flakes entered even into our present place of refuge.

_August_ 1st. At day break we found ourselves completely surrounded by floating ice, a strong N.W. wind driving the large shoals from the W.

side of the little pa.s.s in which we lay, with much force towards us, insomuch that our boat was in the greatest danger of being crushed to pieces by them. We were all day long hard at work with poles, boat-hooks, and hatchets, to ward off the larger shoals, but when the tide fell, they hung upon our cables and anchors, of which we had three out, closing in also on all sides of the boat, so that we were every moment in fearful expectation of her being carried away, and our anchors lost, which would have reduced us to the most distressing situation.

Indeed we all cried to the Lord to help us in this dangerous situation, and not to suffer us to perish here, but by His almighty aid, to save us and our boat. With great and unremitting exertions we had laboured all day, from the morning early, till seven in the evening, when the Lord heard our prayers, and sent relief. We now succeeded in working the boat out of the ice, the rising of the tide having opened a pa.s.sage through it, just as we were almost exhausted with fatigue. It also became quite calm, and we felt as if we had pa.s.sed from death to life.

Having anch.o.r.ed again on the opposite side of the little pa.s.s or strait, we gave thanks to G.o.d, for the deliverance we had experienced through His mercy, in which our Esquimaux, young and old, most fervently joined.

During our stay at Oppernavik, our whole stock of fire-wood was expended, and we were obliged to purchase of our companions, what they had to spare. We likewise robbed some old Esquimaux graves of the wooden utensils, which it is the superst.i.tious practice of the heathen to lay beside the corpses of their owners, with old tent-poles, &c. and thus obtained fuel sufficient for our cookery.

Wood will not decay by mere exposure to the air in Labrador, but wastes away gradually; and after forty or more years, the wood found at the graves is still fit for use.

CHAPTER VIII.

_Departure from Oppernavik. Pa.s.s the Ikkerasak of Killinek.

Whirlpools. The coast takes a southerly direction. Meeting with Esquimaux from the Ungava country, who had never seen an European. Anchor at Omanek. High tides. Drift-wood. Double Cape Uibvaksoak. Distant view of Akpatok._

August 2d.--Having made all needful preparations for the voyage, a gentle but favourable wind, and occasional rowing, brought us, about nine in the morning, to the entrance of the much dreaded Ikkerasak. The weather was pleasant and warm, not a flake of ice was to be seen, and all our fear and anxiety had subsided. Our minds were attuned to praise and thanksgiving for the providential preservation we had experienced yesterday. We performed our morning devotions on deck, and all joined in a joyful hallelujah to G.o.d our Saviour, which was sweetly repeated by echoes among the mountains and precipices on either side. The scripture-text appointed in the Church of the United Brethren for this day being read, it seemed as if addressed particularly to us, separated as we felt ourselves, in these lonely regions, from the rest of the inhabitants of the earth: "_See now that I, even I, am He, and there is no G.o.d with me: I kill, and I make alive; I wound, and I heal._" Deut.

32, 39. We rejoiced, that we were in the hands of a gracious and merciful G.o.d and Father, who would not forsake us, but deal with us according to his wonted mercy and favour.

The Ikkerasak, (or strait), is about ten miles in length; the land on each side high and rocky, and in some places precipitous, but there appeared no rocks in the strait itself. The water is deep and clear. Its mouth is wide, and soon after entering, a bay opens to the left, which by an inlet only just wide enough to admit a boat, communicates with a lagoon of considerable magnitude, in which lies an island on its western bank. Beyond this bay, the pa.s.sage narrows and consequently the stream, always setting from N. to S. grows more rapid. Here the mountains on both sides rise to a great height. Having proceeded for two miles in a narrow channel, the strait opens again, but afterwards contracts to about 1000 yards across; immediately beyond which, the left coast turns to the south. As the tide ebbs regularly with the current from N. to S.

along the whole coast of Labrador, the current through the strait is most violent during its fall, and less, when resisted by its influx on rising.

We were taught to expect much danger in pa.s.sing certain eddies or whirlpools in the narrow parts of the straits, and were therefore continually upon the look-out for them. When we pa.s.sed the first narrow channel, at 12 P.M. it being low water, no whirlpool was perceptible.

Having sailed on for little more than half an hour, with wind and tide in our favour, we reached the second. Here, indeed, we discovered a whirlpool, but of no great magnitude at this state of the tide. Near the north-sh.o.r.e the water was, indeed, whirled round in the manner of a boiling cauldron of ten or twelve feet diameter, with considerable noise and much foam; but we pa.s.sed without the smallest inconvenience, within thirty or forty feet of the outer circle. Our skin-boat, however, which we had in tow, with a man in it, was seized by the vortex, and received a rapid twist; but as the towing-rope did not break, she was immediately rescued from danger by the swiftness of our course, and the affair afforded us more diversion than anxiety. The motion of the water in these eddies is so great, that they never freeze in the severest winter.

The ice being drawn towards them with great force, the largest shoals are carried under water, and thrown up again, broken into numerous fragments. The Ikkerasak is at that season utterly impa.s.sable for boats.

The Killinek people inhabit an island to the right, after leaving the strait.

When we quitted the Ikkerasak, and entered the ocean on the western side of Cape Chudleigh, it seemed as if we were transported to a new world.

Hitherto the coast to our left had always taken a northerly direction.

It now turned to the S.S.W. and is low, with gently sloping hills, the sea being full of small islands, abounding in sea-fowl.

To the N. and N.W. we saw the open sea in Hudson's Straits, which, compared to the turbulent Atlantic, seemed calm and peaceful. We sailed briskly amidst the islands, and overtook the inhabitants of Saeglek, whom we had seen at Kakkeviak, where they had got the start of us. The wind being favourable, we did not hail them, but kept on our course. We now saw with pleasure the Ungava country to the South before us, but had first to pa.s.s the low point of _Uivarsuk_, the bay of _Arvavik_, in which the people from Saeglek had their summer stations, and the mountain _Omanek_, of moderate height, and surrounded by many small islets, called by the Esquimaux _Erngavinget_, (bowels). We now discovered three skin-boats full of people standing towards us from the sh.o.r.e. They were inhabitants of Ungava, and welcomed our approach with loud shouts of joy and firing their pieces, which was answered by our party. They followed us to Omanek, a round island rising like a loaf among the rest, where they pitched their tents on sh.o.r.e.

Some of them had formerly dwelt in different places north of Okkak, and were known to the Missionaries in former times, the rest were perfect strangers. They declared their intention of coming over to the North of Okkak, to remain some time in that country, for the sake of trade. It has been mentioned, that some of the Ungava people have come to Okkak, and carry on a trade between their countrymen and that place. They are a kind of middle men, bring fox and bear-skins, and exchange them for European goods. These they carry back, and sell at a very advanced price in the Ungava country. They spend two years on such a trading voyage.

Brother Kohlmeister visited the people in their tents. They were about fifty in number, men, women, and children. He informed them, that nothing could induce the Missionaries to come into this country, but love to the poor heathen, and an ardent desire to make them acquainted with their Creator and Redeemer, that through Him they might attain to happiness in time and eternity. Some seemed to listen with great attention, but the greater part understood nothing of what was said.

This, of course, did not surprise us, as most of them were quite ignorant heathen, who had never before seen an European. They, however, raised a shout of joy, when we informed them, that we would come and visit them in their own country. Many were not satisfied with viewing us on every side with marks of great astonishment, but came close up to us, and pawed us all over. At taking leave we presented them with a few trifles, which excited among them the greatest pleasure and thankfulness.

We recommend these heathen to the mercy of G.o.d, and pray, that the day may soon dawn, when the light of the saving gospel of Jesus may s.h.i.+ne into their hearts.

3d. Several of them came on board, once more to see us, and, in their way, to express their regard and grat.i.tude. They also got some useful articles from our people, in exchange for their goods. We now set sail, pa.s.sed a point called _Oglarvik_, and the bay _Takpangayok_, and arrived at _Tuktusiovik_, (a place where reindeer are seen), where we cast anchor for the night. Already at Omanek we had discovered a great difference between the rise and fall of the tides there and about Killinek. In the latter place it rose to four fathoms, but here still higher. The country looked pleasant, with many berry-bearing plants and bushes. There was, likewise, plenty of drift-wood all along the coast; not the large Greenland timber, but small trees and roots, evidently carried out of the great rivers of the Ungava by the ice. We had, of course, fire-wood enough, without robbing the graves of their superst.i.tious furniture. Our Esquimaux pitched their tent on sh.o.r.e, and we supped with them on a mess of seal's flesh and eider-ducks. The musquitoes were extremely troublesome during our repast, after which we retired to sleep on board the boat.

4th. Wind fair. We pa.s.sed numerous low rocks; a point, by name unknown to Uttakiyok; the bay _Ikpigitok_, two miles broad, and the cape called _Uibvaksoak_, the northern boundary of the great bay or gulf of _Abloriak_. This cape is surrounded by many bare and sunken rocks, which caused us to stand out pretty far to the westward. While we were off the point, we descried, at a very great distance to the N.W. a large island, called by the Esquimaux _Akpatok_. They say, that it encloses the whole bay or gulf towards the sea, and consists of high land: also, that it is connected with the western continent at low water by an isthmus. The north coast of this island appears to be the line laid down in maps and charts as the coast of America, to the south of Hudson's Straits. But the district of Ungava is separated from the island by a large inland bay, extending southward to the 58 N.L. North of Akpatok, the Esquimaux speak of islands well peopled by their countrymen, who have never seen Europeans.

Having safely doubled the point or cape of _Uibvaksoak_, we came to an anchor near a small island to the south, where we spent the night.

5th. Calm weather, and proceeded gently. About 9 A.M. the wind turned against us, and we ran into a small bay, about five miles from our former anchoring-place. Here we found the _Andromeda tetragona_ growing in tolerable quant.i.ty, on the banks of a lagoon of fresh water. The face of the country was unpleasant, with many steep rocks. On a precipice behind our tent we perceived nests of birds of prey. The naked rocks had singular shapes, and presented to the imagination the ruins of a destroyed town. In the vallies we saw many small lagoons, but little gra.s.s, and the excrements of geese. It was about full moon, and the tide rising here five or six fathom, occasioned the most strange alterations in the prospect towards the sea, which, being smooth and clear of rocks at high water, exhibited, after its fall, an archipelago of rugged islands and black flats.

CHAPTER IX.

_Chain of black mountains. The Dragon's dwelling. Changes occasioned by rise and fall of the tides, and dangers attending them. Uttakiyok's superst.i.tious customs. Singular effect of the tide in the bay of Ittimnekoktok. Arrive at Kangertlualuksoak bay and river. Its situation. Transactions there._

August 6th.--We crossed the bay _Abloriak_, which is large and wide, with many small islands and rocks towards the sea, and high black mountains inland, called _Torngaets_. Uttakiyok, who was always very eager to make us attentive to every object and its name, shewed us here a wide and deep cavern, in shape like the gable end of an house, situated at the top of a precipice, in a black mountain, of a very horrid and dark appearance. This, he informed us, was the dwelling place of Torngak, the evil spirit. The scenery was, indeed, extremely wild and terrible, and the beforementioned prospect of the rocks and islands at low water gave to the whole country a most singularly gloomy character.

Nor is this change, occasioned by the tide in the state of the sea, merely in appearance terrific, it is so in reality: for we never durst cast anchor in less than eight or nine fathoms water, lest at ebb-tide we should find ourselves aground, or even high and dry.

The cavern just spoken of, connected with the chain of black mountains in which it is situated, we called the Dragon's dwelling, but had no time to examine the place, though it did not appear inaccessible.

Whether Uttakiyok would have ventured to accompany us into it, is another question, for he was, with all his good sense, strongly attached to the superst.i.tious notions and ceremonies of his countrymen. Thus, on pa.s.sing dangerous places he always hung the claw of a raven to his breast, and carried the blown paunch of a seal upon a tent-pole fixed to one side of his boat. The latter is a common practice among the northern Esquimaux, and probably considered by them all as a very efficient charm.

We pa.s.sed _Sioralik_, and many small and flat rocky islands: the bay _Issorkitok_, (a gra.s.sy place), a nameless headland; and the larger bay _Nappartolik_, (a woody country). The wood is said to commence at the interior point of this bay, and to continue throughout the whole of the Ungava country, which, as we afterwards discovered, extends to a considerable distance to the southward. Then follows _Tunnuyalik_, a point, or perhaps an island, on which lies a huge white stone, twenty or thirty feet high, by which it is distinguished from other similar headlands. A chain of low, flat islands, runs out into the sea to a considerable distance, and appearing at a distance as continued land, they are mistaken for a cape. Farther on is the bay _Ittimnekoktok_, where it grew dark before we found a suitable anchorage. The wind was high, and some of our company went on sh.o.r.e in the skin-boat, in order to pitch their tent, and spend the night.

7th. On rising, to our great surprise, we found ourselves left by the tide in a shallow pool of water, surrounded by rocky hills; nor could we at all discover the situation of our skin-boat, till after the water had begun to rise, and raised us above the banks of our watery dungeon, when, with great astonishment, not having been able to find it on the surface of the sea, and accidentally directing our eyes upwards, we saw it perched upon the top of a considerable eminence, and apparently on sh.o.r.e. We then landed, and ascending a rising ground, beheld with some terror, the wonderful changes occasioned by the tides. Our course was visible to the extent of two or three English miles, but the sea had left it, and we were obliged to remain in this dismal place, till about noon, before the water had risen sufficiently to carry us out. We now began to entertain fears, lest we might not always be able to find proper harbours, so as to avoid being left high and dry at low water; for having anch.o.r.ed in nine fathoms last night, we were left in one and a half this morning. Uttakiyok and Thukkekina were with us on sh.o.r.e. The eminence on which we stood was overgrown with vaccinia and other plants, and we saw among them marks of its being visited by hares. Near the summit was a spot, covered with red sand, which stained one's fingers, and among it were fragments of a substance resembling cast iron. We seemed here to stand on a peninsula connected by an isthmus with another island, or with the continent; but probably at high water it may be a separate island.

As soon as the tide would permit, we set out, and proceeded towards a cape called _Kattaktok_, surrounded by small islands. Between the cape and our anchoring place, we pa.s.sed, on the left, the following objects; _Keglo_, a broad deep bay; _Katarusialik_, a headland, probably of the continent; _Ukkasiksalik_, (meaning a place where soap stone is found), a peninsula; and to the right of the latter place, an island, _Kikkertarsoak_, which lies at the entrance of the _Great Bay_, or estuary of the great river _Kangertlualuksoak_. We sailed with a strong, but favourable wind, with some rain, between the peninsula and the island; and not trusting to the depth of the water at ebb-tide, sent two kayaks forward to sound. They soon brought us into a good harbour, where we cast anchor about half past five P.M.

_Kangertlualuksoak_ river was the spot to which we had princ.i.p.ally directed our views. It lies about 140 miles S.S.W. of Cape Chudleigh. By an observation at its mouth its lat.i.tude appeared to be 58 57'. But we had no means of finding the longitude. At its entrance the bay runs rather S.S.E. for about ten or twelve English miles, then turns due S.E.

for six or eight more, and after that S.W. At the second turn towards the S.E. there is the greatest quant.i.ty of wood, chiefly Larch, but of moderate size. We particularly noticed a fine slope facing the south, which appeared the most pleasant part of the bay, to which a vessel might approach and anchor with convenience, there being from 24 to 30 fathoms water. We also imagined that the entrance from the sea would be free from obstructions, as no islands are seen in that direction.

Uttakiyok likewise declared, that there was no bar or sunken rocks near the mouth of the bay.

We found no inhabitants on our arrival, but on the 13th, a whole company of people from Killinek joined us.

Our transactions in the bay of _Kangertlualuksoak_, from the 7th, are here noticed more in detail.