Journal of a Voyage from Okkak, on the Coast of Labrador, to Ungava Bay, Westward of Cape Chudleigh Part 5

We felt quite at a loss what to do in this dilemma, and our path seemed enveloped in obscurity. We remembered, that "_to the upright there ariseth a light in the darkness_," (Ps. 112, 4): that is, to them who fear and trust in the Lord, and sincerely desire to know and do His will, He will reveal it. In His name we had entered upon this voyage, the only ultimate object of which was, the conversion of a benighted, neglected nation, in one of the remotest corners of the earth. We were, therefore, sure that He would not forsake us, nor leave us in uncertainty as to His will concerning us, but that He, "_whose eyes run to and fro throughout the whole earth, to shew Himself strong in the behalf of them whose heart is perfect towards Him_," (2 Chron. 16, 9.) was, even in this desolate region, present with us, and would hear and answer our prayers. Many comfortable texts of scripture occurred to our minds on this occasion, filling us with an extraordinary degree of faith and confidence in Him, particularly such as, "_He will be very gracious unto thee at the voice of thy cry; when He shall hear it, He will answer thee_," Isa. 30, 19. Also, Dan. 10, 19; Jer. 16, 21; Isa. 43, 2, &c. The mercies, also, which we had already experienced, excited within us a sense of the deepest grat.i.tude and most firm trust; and we therefore told our people, that we indeed partic.i.p.ated in their concern, would take the subject into serious consideration, and acquaint them with our determination on the morrow.

19th. In the morning we met in our tent, where we were safe from the intrusion of the Esquimaux, to confer together upon this most important subject. We weighed all the circ.u.mstances connected with it, maturely and impartially, as in the presence of G.o.d, and, not being able to come to any decision, where reasons for and against the question seemed to hold such an even balance, we determined to commit our case to Him, who has promised, that "_if two of His people shall agree on earth, as touching any thing that they shall ask, it shall be done for them_,"

(Matth. 18, 19.) and, kneeling down, entreated Him to hear our prayers and supplications in this our distressed and embarra.s.sing situation, and to make known to us His will concerning our future proceedings, whether we should persevere in fulfilling the whole aim of our voyage, or, prevented by circ.u.mstances, give up a part, and return home from this place.

The peace of G.o.d which filled our hearts on this memorable occasion, and the strong conviction wrought in us both, that we should persevere, in His name, to fulfil the whole of our commission, relying without fear on His help and preservation, no words can describe; but those who believe in the fulfilment of the gracious promises of Jesus, given to His poor followers and disciples, will understand us, when we declare, that we were a.s.sured, that it was the will of G.o.d our Saviour, that we should not now return and leave our work unfinished, but proceed to the end of our proposed voyage. Each of us communicated to his brother the conviction of his heart, all fears and doubts vanished, and we were filled anew with courage and willingness to act in obedience to it, in the strength of the Lord. O that all men knew the comfort and happiness of a mind devoted unto, and firmly trusting in G.o.d in all things!

When we made known our determination to Jonathan and his son Jonas, and told them, that we had maturely considered the subject committed by them to us, and that, in answer to our prayers, the Lord had convinced us, that, not having obtained the aim of our voyage, we should proceed, Jonas, at first, seemed not quite satisfied, but our excellent captain, Jonathan, without hesitation replied: "Yes, that is also my conviction!

We will go whither Jesus directs us. He will bring us safe to our journey's end, and safe home again." We were, indeed, glad and thankful that the Lord had inclined the heart of this man, who but yesterday seemed to be quite dispirited, to take this resolution, for much depended upon him, and the rest followed him without difficulty. Indeed they all submitted to our determination with a willing mind, and their expressions of resignation affected us much.

During the day, the men had been out a-hunting, when Uttakiyok killed three reindeer, which occasioned great rejoicing, and helped to make our people forget the frightful scenes of yesterday. The country is full of black looking rocks, between which reindeer-moss and berries grow in plenty. The sh.o.r.e exhibited still many marks of the violence of the storm.

20th. We proceeded with a favourable wind at N.E. Our course lay S.W.

across a broad bay, then, after doubling a point, across another bay of about the same breadth, to an island _Allukpaluk_, which we pa.s.sed on the right, and on the left, another island, _Nipkotok_. At a considerable distance a-head lay the islands _Pitsiolak_, opposite a headland of the continent called _Tuktutok_.

The sky had been from the morning cloudy, the wind became unfavourable and violent, and about noon heavy rain came on. Not being well able to proceed, on account of the violence of the wind, we cast anchor on the west side of _Pitsiolak_, about 2 P.M. but perceiving a thunderstorm rising from the western horizon, with very black clouds, threatening to drive us on sh.o.r.e if we remained at this anchorage, we weighed as quickly as possible, and endeavoured to get to the other side of the island.

Meanwhile a most tremendous storm of thunder, lightning, and rain overtook us. The claps of thunder followed the flashes without interval, and the lightning seemed to strike into the water close to our boat, while the wind carried the spray into the air like smoke. Providentially we had doubled the northern point before the worst came on, and got to an anchor under shelter of the land. The storm pa.s.sed by swiftly, it grew calm, the sun broke out, and the weather became uncommonly fine with us, though at a distance we saw the black clouds, and heard the hollow murmuring of the thunder for a long time.

We now expected to have a comfortable night's rest, but it grew intensely cold, and again began to blow violently from the west. The strong current and heavy swell brought us into some danger, and the poor people, who were obliged to remain on deck all night, suffered much from cold and wet. When the tide was full, about midnight, the island we had seen to the west nearly vanished, the greater part being covered with water.

21st. In the morning we again saw the skin-boat lying upon a pretty high rock, and a tent pitched close to it. The weather was calm, but the wind contrary. Our Esquimaux made good use of this respite to refresh themselves after the fatigues of the night with a hearty meal and a sound nap.

In the afternoon we landed. The island Pitsiolak, which forms two at high water, is low and flat, overgrown with Empetrum and Rubus Chamoemorus, (_Akpik_-berries). Quant.i.ties of driftwood float about the sh.o.r.es. The jasper occurred here again. This island may be about four or five miles long, and, at low water, is connected with other islands to the north. By the help of our gla.s.ses we could perceive woods on the continent, and the Esquimaux thought they discovered the smoke of Indian fires. They are much afraid of meeting these people. b.l.o.o.d.y encounters occasionally occur between them. The Indians come from the interior, and from Hudson's Bay, and are frequently seen near the two princ.i.p.al rivers, George river and South river, towards which we were going; but we met with none. Brother Kohlmeister rather wished for it, as some of them are said to understand English, and he was desirous of endeavouring to bring them to a more peaceable disposition towards the Esquimaux, by friendly conversation.

22d. We found the skin-boat a great hindrance to us. Without being obliged to take that in tow, we might have kept at a greater distance from the sh.o.r.e, which would have enabled us to get on more rapidly, and with greater safety. On sh.o.r.e we found a great quant.i.ty of cubical pyrites in a grey matrix. The Esquimaux are attentive to this mineral, and have before now brought it to Okkak.

23d. We proceeded at 6 A.M. and steered for the island of _Saeglorsoak_.

The islands called _Nocharutsit_ lay on our left. They are a group of numerous small islands, many of which are overflowed at high water, extending W. and E. towards the entrance of South river. Between these islands and Akpatok, the sea is said to be clear of rocks, and the water of sufficient depth for any s.h.i.+p entering from Hudson's Straits, and bound to the Koksoak, or South river; but no s.h.i.+p durst, in our opinion, venture to approach the coast of Ungava within twenty or thirty miles.

In the afternoon, the tide turning against us, and the wind unfavourable, we were obliged to come to an anchor among the islands. We had left the skin-boat behind, with Thukkekina, Uttakiyok's brother Annoray, and one of his wives, to whom he had given his baggage in charge. The Esquimaux wives are very punctilious, the first always maintains the highest dignity, regulates the housekeeping, distributes the provisions, and directs everything, as mistress of the family.

Jonas went out in his kayak, and shot a seal. We saw many, and fired at them, but got none. Whitefish were likewise seen at a distance.

Uttakiyok and David were out in their kayaks, and joined us in the evening loaded with geese.

On the turn of the tide we proceeded, and at ten P.M. cast anchor among the Nocharutsits, under a pretty high island, about three or four miles in circ.u.mference. All our people remained on board during the night, which was calm and pleasant.

24th. David roused us about five o'clock, by firing at a seal, which he killed. The women went on sh.o.r.e to cook it with some geese. When they returned, we all breakfasted on the contents of their pot.

The Esquimaux want no books of cookery to manage their kitchen affairs.

The meat is boiled with the blood in it, and the addition of some water.

When it is sufficiently done, that is, according the Ungava custom, when half warm, the women take it out of the pot, and serve it up on a piece of stone, if on sh.o.r.e, and on a piece of board, if at sea. Then the person, who has caught the seal or game, proclaims with great vociferation, that the _men_ may come and sit down to eat. Such exertion of voice, however, seems hardly necessary, as the Esquimaux are very acute at hearing, when they are invited to dinner. When the men have done, the women sit down, having taken good care, beforehand, that their share is secured. The Esquimaux customs never permit men and women to sit down together at a meal.

It sometimes happens among the heathen Esquimaux, that several having had good success, one huntsman's feast is hardly over, before another proclaims the invitation to his banquet. This is never suffered to pa.s.s unnoticed, while the power of cramming down another morsel remains. Thus they will continue eating, till they are scarcely able to breathe, and then lie down to sleep off the effects of their gluttony. Indeed their excessive voraciousness on such occasions produces, especially after long fasting, all the symptoms of drunkenness. They forget, under its sensual influence, all moderation, and abandon themselves to the most disgusting abominations.

In the afternoon we steered W. by N. (wind N.E.), for the cape of _Kernerauyak_, at the east side of the entrance of the river _Koksoak_, (Sand river). Before we arrived at the cape, we left some islands to the South, the largest of which is again called _Kikkertarsoak.

Saeglorsoak_, is a large flat island, about eight or ten miles long, and its neighbourhood very dangerous, on account of many sunken rocks. The continent hereabouts is well wooded, and Indians are said to be frequently seen in the interior. The mouth of the Koksoak is seven or eight English miles broad: its sh.o.r.es steep, but the rocks in general low, and covered with moss. The Esquimaux say, that in the middle there is water enough for any large s.h.i.+p, though the tides prevent any near approach to the land. At sunset we came to an anchor at the mouth of the river.

CHAPTER XII.

_Sail up the river Koksoak. Transactions in that region.

Dangerous eddy. Meet Esquimaux. Address to them. Their joy and eagerness to have Missionaries, resident among them. Find a suitable situation for a settlement. Description of the country._

August 25th.--This was the joyful day on which at last we saw our hopes realized, and the princ.i.p.al aim of our journey obtained. The sun rose beautifully, and announced a delightful day. We were obliged to wait till seven A.M. for the turn of the tide, before we could proceed up the river. The estuary of the _Koksoak_ lies, according to an observation taken, in 58 36' N. lat.i.tude, nearly the same as Okkak. To the west the country is called by the Esquimaux _a.s.sokak_, the coast turning again W.N.W. This river, therefore, seems to be at the most southern point of the coast, George's river entering the sea at 58 52', consequently more North.

The Koksoak appeared to us to be about as broad as the Thames at Gravesend, or the Elbe near Hamburg, and the whole river, with its various windings, much resembles the Thames for twenty-four miles upwards. Its depth is sufficient for a s.h.i.+p thus far. Its general direction is from the South. We reckoned it to be about 600 or 700 miles from Okkak, and Killinek or Cape Chudleigh half way.

Having proceeded five or six miles up the river, we came to a small island, which we left on our right.

We saw several sacks of blubber, a sledge, and some other, articles lying on the beach, and Jonathan and Brother Kmoch went in the small boat to discover the proprietors, but found n.o.body there, to guard the goods.

A little farther on is a point of land running out into nearly the middle of the stream. The current sets very rapidly round it, so as to form a dangerous eddy. Our boat was seized, and twice turned quite round; the small boat was whirled about several times, as she pushed through it. The women on board our boat, on seeing this, set up a loud scream; but Jonathan only laughed at their fears, and we afterwards saw kayaks pa.s.sing the eddy in perfect safety.

Having doubled the point, we perceived several kayaks approaching. The people in them shouted aloud for joy, exclaiming, _Innuit, Innuit_! Men, Men! Some guns were also fired in the boat, which were soon answered by some fowling-pieces from the sh.o.r.e.

We now saw three tents pitched on the bank, and hoisted our colours, when we were incessantly hailed by the inhabitants. There was a general cry of _Kuve, Kuve, Kablunaet, Kablunaet!_ Europeans, Europeans! from the men in the kayaks, who, by all manner of gesticulations, expressed their pleasure, brandis.h.i.+ng their pautiks, (oars), and shouting continually as they rowed alongside the boat. The women on sh.o.r.e answered with loud acclamations.

About one P.M. we cast anchor close to their habitations. Fourteen families were here, among whom were some from a distant district, called _Eivektok_. These had pitched their tents farther up the river.

_Arnauyak_ was with them, a man, with whom Brother Kohlmeister had become acquainted some years ago, exceedingly regretted, that he had but a few days ago left the place, to hunt reindeer on George's river. The children expressed their joy by running to and fro on the strand, like wild creatures.

At first, the people in the tents appeared rather shy, but after accepting of some trifling presents, they became quite communicative, and gave us some of their toys in exchange; then walking round us, surveyed us narrowly, as if we were a new species of animals. Most of them had never before seen an European. Uttakiyok's brother had joined them, and already informed them of our arrival, without which they would probably have been yet more alarmed at seeing strangers, and hearing the report of fire-arms.

They now invited all our people to dine with them, and having heard that Brother Kohlmeister would like to taste the flesh of a whitefish, a kettle was immediately placed on the fire, and a large piece put in to boil. Brother Kmoch meanwhile cooked a savoury soup of birds, and reindeer-flesh, more fit for an European stomach. While dinner was preparing, Brother Kohlmeister took a walk up the bank of the river, and across some hills. As the families belonging to _Eivektok_ had their summer dwelling in that neighbourhood, the Esquimaux, on perceiving that he had walked in that direction, and fearing that the Eivektok people, seeing him alone, might mistake him for an Indian, and shoot at him, dispatched two men to bring him back. They missed him, and he returned before them. He found our people very pleasantly conversing with the heathen concerning the aim of our journey, and the way of salvation.

Even Uttakiyok was thus engaged, explaining, as well as he could, the cause of our living in Labrador: he exclaimed, "let us, my friends, all be converted to Jesus." He was heard with peculiar attention, being considered as a captain among them. In the evening we sang hymns in Jonathan's tent. The people all came and listened with much seriousness.

26th. To-day the Eivektok families came in a skin-boat down the river, to see us. They were full of astonishment, but soon took courage, and handled us, to discover whether we were made of the same materials with themselves. An old man, _Netsiak_, addressed Brother Kohlmeister: "Are you Benjamin? I have never seen you with my eyes, but at Eivektok have heard your name often mentioned." He seemed to be a sensible man, and a captain among his tribe.

We could not help remarking the difference between these Esquimaux and their countrymen living on the same coasts with our settlements. The former are very poor, and miserably equipped, whereas the latter, by their intercourse with us and other Europeans, have acquired many conveniences, and are, by barter, well provided with what they want.

27th. We proceeded farther up the river, accompanied by most of the men, and some women, in their skin-boat, and arrived at a bay, which, by the winding of the stream, appears like a lake, surrounded on all sides with gently rising grounds, well planted with wood of moderate size, chiefly larch. Behind the wood are some low hills. We named this place _Unity's Bay_. There is here a very good place for a Missionary settlement. A fine slope extends for about half an English mile, bounded on each extremity by a hill, on each of which we erected high signals. The land is even and dry. Juniper, currants, and other berries, grow here in abundance, and rivulets run out of the wood at a distance of a few hundred paces from each other. The slope faces the S.S.E. and we named it _Pilgerruh_, (Pilgrim's rest). Brother Kohlmeister made drawings of the situation.

From our first arrival we had improved every opportunity of making the Esquimaux acquainted with the chief aim of our visit to this country, and addressed them both singly and in companies. Nor were Jonathan and Jonas remiss in conversing with them about the concerns of their immortal souls, declaring to them the love of G.o.d our Saviour towards them. We once met with Sybilla, Jonathan's wife, seated with a company of women, under the shadow of a skin-boat, set on edge, exhorting them, with great simplicity and fervour, to hear and believe the gospel.

28th. Brother Kmoch landed with Jonathan, and spent some hours in examining the banks of the river. On ascending the first eminence, the view of the interior is in general flat, with a few low hills, and ponds in some places, full of wild geese. The timber in the woods hereabouts is not large: we found none fit for masts. The largest trees were not more than eight inches in diameter, and fifteen or twenty feet high.

They are chiefly larch and pines. In some places we found them burnt or withered, and were informed by the Esquimaux, that it was the effect of the Indian's fires. Indeed we saw several places where the Indians had put up huts, and left sufficient vestiges of their abode. Berries grow everywhere, and between the river and the wood, the plain is chiefly covered with willows, high gra.s.s growing between them, but these and the various shrubs are so low, that a man can easily look over them. In all directions we saw the tracks of reindeer, and there is every appearance of its being a place much frequented by these animals. Deeper in the wood, we found great quant.i.ties of sorrel and other European plants. The woods appeared very thick, and extended as far as the eye could reach, often coming down to the edge of the river. The Esquimaux say, that higher up, large timber is found. On our return to the skin-boat we found ourselves pretty much fatigued, and ready to partake of a supper, cooked by the Esquimaux, consisting of s.h.i.+p's biscuit, dried fish, and raw whitefish blubber. The Esquimaux prevailed upon Brother Kmoch to taste the latter, and he reported, that having once overcome his aversion to it, its taste was sweet, like the kernel of a nut, but heated his stomach like a hot posset.

29th. Changeable and rainy weather prevented us from going out much.

30th. Our people, and with them the strange Esquimaux, met for public wors.h.i.+p. Brother Kohlmeister once more explained to them our intention in coming thus far to visit them. He addressed them to the following effect: "That already, many years ago, many excellent people in the country beyond the great ocean, had thought of them with much love, and felt desirous that the inhabitants of the Ungava country also might hear the comfortable word of G.o.d, and be instructed in it: for they had heard that the Esquimaux here were heathen, who, through ignorance, served the Torngak, or evil spirit, and were led by him into the commission of all manner of sin, that they might hereafter be lost, and go to the place of eternal darkness and misery. Out of love, therefore," continued the missionary, "they have sent us to you, and out of love we have come to you, to tell you how you may be saved, and become happy, peaceful children of G.o.d, being delivered from the fear of death, which is now upon you all, and have the prospect of everlasting joy and peace hereafter, even by receiving the gospel, and turning to Jesus, who is the only Creator and Saviour of all men. He died for _your_ sins, for _our_ sins, and for the sins of all mankind, as our surety, suffering the punishment we deserved, that _you_, by receiving Him, and believing on Him, might be saved, and not go to the place of eternal darkness and pain, but to the place of bliss and eternal rest. You cannot yet understand these comfortable words of the gospel, but if it is your sincere wish to know the truth of them, Jesus will open your ears and hearts, to hear and understand them. These my companions were as ignorant as you, but they now thank G.o.d, that they know Jesus as their Saviour, and are a.s.sured that through His death they shall inherit everlasting life."

During this address all were silent and very attentive. Some exclaimed: "O we desire to hear more about it!" Old Netsiak, from Eivektok, said: "I am indeed old, but if you come to live here, I will certainly remove hither also; and live with you and be converted."

When we put the question to them, whether they were willing, that we should come and dwell with them, and instruct them, they all answered with a loud and cheerful voice. "_Kait.i.tse tok, Kait.i.tse tok!_ O do come soon, and live with us, we will all gladly be converted, and live with you." Jonathan and Jonas also bore ample testimony to the truth of what we had spoken, and their words seemed to make a deep impression on all their countrymen. Uttakiyok was above others eager to express his wish that we might soon make a settlement in the Ungava country. Five of the fourteen families who mean to reside here next winter, are from Eivektok.

Farther inland, the river Koksoak widens considerably, but consequently grows more shallow. The country is pleasant, with wood, gra.s.sy plains, and gentle hills.

31st. Having finished all our observations here, we dropped down the stream to the place, where we had discovered the first tents.