Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 8

SEVENTH PATTERN (fig. 148).--Two kinds of cotton have to be used for this pattern, one of them soft and flat, like Colon a repriser D.M.C[A]

(darning cotton) or Coton a tricoter D.M.C (knitting cotton)[A] for the flat st.i.tches, and the other strongly twisted, like Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 8, 10, 12 or 15,[A] for the cross st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 148. SEVENTH PATTERN.]

The five flat st.i.tches cover three threads in width and six in height, and lie from right to left and from left to right. In the second row, which must be two threads distant from the first, the st.i.tches must lie in the contrary direction. In the lozenge-shaped s.p.a.ce between, make four cross st.i.tches, over four threads in height and two in width.

EIGHTH PATTERN (figs. 149 and 150).--Make five st.i.tches over 8 horizontal threads, miss 6 threads and make another 5 st.i.tches. The groups of long st.i.tches above and beneath the first row, encroach over two threads of the first group, so that a s.p.a.ce of only four threads remains between two groups. The st.i.tch between these groups is generally known as the rococo st.i.tch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 149. EIGHTH PATTERN.]

Bring out your needle between the third and fourth of these threads, and insert it again above, drawing it out afterwards between the second and third horizontal thread, and securing the first st.i.tch with a back st.i.tch. Make the three remaining st.i.tches, as explained in fig. 150.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 150. EXPLANATION OF THE ROCOCO St.i.tCH IN FIG. 149.]

NINTH PATTERN (fig. 151).--This consists of straight bands of flat st.i.tches, covering three threads each way, with s.p.a.ces 8 threads wide between, ornamented with a small pattern in stroke st.i.tch, (see chapter on Tapestry and Linen embroidery).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 151. NINTH PATTERN.]

DAMASK St.i.tCH FOR FIGS. 103 AND 105 (fig. 152).--The st.i.tches, here represented on a large scale, form the border to the square in cut open-work in fig. 105. The long diagonal st.i.tches, on either side, can be made to look fuller and more distinct, by using a soft, coa.r.s.e cotton.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 152. DAMASK St.i.tCH FOR FIGS. 103 AND 105.]

TENTH AND ELEVENTH PATTERNS (figs. 153 and 154).--The former of these is used for filling in the short stripe in fig. 105, the second for the long inside one. Fig. 153 is clear enough to need no explanation; with reference to fig. 154, it is however as well to point out that the shortest st.i.tch should cover 4 threads and the longest 12, the rest is easily learnt from the ill.u.s.tration. This is a very suitable design for the decoration of large surfaces and combines well with any running diagonal pattern, when it can be made to form a large star which can be worked as a separate figure.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 153. TENTH PATTERN. DAMASK St.i.tCH FOR FIGS. 104 AND 105.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 154. ELEVENTH PATTERN. DAMASK St.i.tCH FOR FIG. 105.]

TWELFTH PATTERN (fig. 155).--In cases where this and the following st.i.tches are to be executed on a light, transparent stuff, it is best to use a very strongly twisted thread, such as Fil d'Alsace D.M.C ([A]) or, Fil a dentelle D.M.C ([A]) instead of a softer and looser material. A stiff thread compresses the threads of the stuff better and the open s.p.a.ces, thus made in it, are rendered more visible.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 155. TWELFTH PATTERN.]

Count 6 threads vertically, put in the needle and draw it through from right to left, underneath 3 diagonal threads. For the next st.i.tch, carry it upwards over 6 threads, and back under 3. The second row is worked back over the first in the same way. Leave 6 threads between each row.

THIRTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 156).--Carry the thread, from right to left over four vertical threads, and under the same number of horizontal ones. The second row of st.i.tches touches the first, so that the thread it is worked with seems to be drawn through under the same threads of the stuff, as the one the first row was worked with.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 156. THIRTEENTH PATTERN.]

FOURTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 157).--Here, the st.i.tches, contrary to those in fig. 147, are set vertically. The first st.i.tch covers 2 threads, the second 6, the third 10, the fourth 14, the fifth 18. The longest st.i.tches of two checks always meet in the same hole.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 157. FOURTEENTH PATTERN.]

FIFTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 158).--Cover the whole expanse with rows of st.i.tches, such as are described in fig. 155, with intervals of 12 threads between them.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 158. FIFTEENTH PATTERN.]

These rows are intersected by others, to which the thread is pa.s.sed, from between the sixth and seventh of the 12 threads between the first rows. Where the st.i.tches of the two rows meet, the working thread of the second row must be drawn through, under that of the first.

SIXTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 159).--Between every two rows of cross-st.i.tch, leave an interval of 6 threads, counting those on each side of the rows.

Over these 6 threads work 2 rows, as shown in fig. 148, but so, that in the second, the lower st.i.tch of the first row and the upper one of the second, cover the same threads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 159. SIXTEENTH PATTERN.]

SEVENTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 160).--This consists of stripes, 4 st.i.tches wide, like those of fig. 155, with 3 threads between, which are overcast in the ordinary manner.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 160. SEVENTEENTH PATTERN.]

EIGHTEENTH PATTERN (fig. 161).--Small squares of 7 st.i.tches, inclined alternately, to the right and left, and so formed, that the longest st.i.tch of one square is crossed by the first short st.i.tch of the next, so that a s.p.a.ce only 6 threads wide and 4 long, remains uncovered. The intervening stripes are filled with 3 rows of overcasting st.i.tches, covering 2 threads each way.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 161. EIGHTEENTH PATTERN.]

NINETEENTH PATTERN (fig. 162).--The steps formed by this pattern are 11 st.i.tches high, and 11 wide, and each st.i.tch covers 4 threads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 162. NINETEENTH PATTERN.]

Eight threads intervene between each row of steps, which are covered at the bend, by a square of st.i.tches, from the last of which, the thread is carried on at once, to the four single st.i.tches.

TWENTIETH PATTERN (fig. 163).--The 4 squares set opposite to each other, with 2 threads between, are edged all round by 3 rows of overcasting.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 163. TWENTIETH PATTERN.]

TWENTY-FIRST PATTERN (fig. 164).--Begin by rows of st.i.tches, like those described in fig. 155, over 4 and 2 threads, with 4 threads between, not counting those covered with cross-st.i.tch. Between the two rows of cross-st.i.tch, join 6 threads together by a back-st.i.tch, and carry your thread over the two last of the 6, to the 2 first of the next cl.u.s.ter. The narrow diagonal stripes are separated by 24 threads, exclusive of those covered by the cross-st.i.tches. These s.p.a.ces are filled in with squares, 10 threads wide and 10 long, formed by back-st.i.tches crossed on the wrong side.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 164. TWENTY-FIRST PATTERN.]

TWENTY-SECOND PATTERN (fig. 165).--In the closer stuffs, of a coa.r.s.e texture, the threads of which do not admit of being drawn together, as you can those, of a loose thin stuff, where, by simply pulling your thread a little tighter you get open s.p.a.ces, you must begin by cutting out every fourth or fifth thread. After which, you overcast all the rows, first one way, and then the other, with st.i.tches covering 4 threads, each way. On this foundation with strong, loosely-twisted cotton, Coton a broder D.M.C or Coton a tricoter D.M.C No. 25, 30, 35, or 40, make long st.i.tches, as indicated in the ill.u.s.tration.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 165. TWENTY-SECOND PATTERN.]

TWENTY-THIRD PATTERN (fig. 166.)--From the point where the thread comes out of the stuff, make 16 st.i.tches, four times over, all coming out of the same hole, over 8, 6, 4 and 6 threads, thus forming a star.

Leave an interval of four threads between the stars, and unite the intervening threads by cross-st.i.tches one way, and whip-st.i.tches, the other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 166. TWENTY-THIRD PATTERN.]

TWENTY-FOURTH PATTERN (fig. 167).--Make a succession of diagonal st.i.tches, increasing in length, and advancing one thread at a time, until the seventh st.i.tch covers seven threads, and completes the triangle. Then begin a second triangle on the nearest, adjacent thread.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 167. TWENTY-FOURTH PATTERN.]

TWENTY-FIFTH PATTERN (fig. 168).--Cover your whole surface with squares of 16 st.i.tches, as in fig. 147, and fill in the intervening squares with 23 st.i.tches, all radiating from one centre.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 168. TWENTY-FIFTH PATTERN.]

TWENTY-SIXTH PATTERN (fig. 169).--Diagonal trellised stripes, made as indicated in fig. 165, and overcast, form the ground. Twelve threads are to be left between the stripes, upon which, work six-cornered, lozenge-shaped groups of st.i.tches, set at right angles to each other, in diagonal rows.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 169. TWENTY-SIXTH PATTERN.]

TWENTY-SEVENTH PATTERN (fig. 170).--We conclude our chapter with a circular design, which combines a variety of st.i.tches, and introduces our workers to two new patterns, as well as to an advantageous way of hiding the junction of several kinds of st.i.tches by semicircles of b.u.t.ton-hole st.i.tching.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 170. TWENTY-SEVENTH PATTERN.]